Here are my random notes that have yet to be put into the guide... 

History of the 3800:

1995 - GM Series II 3800's originally used a Large EGR tube that made contact with the plastic intake and caused it to melt.

1999 - GM started installing a new lower intake with a smaller EGR tube to create an air gap around the tube for cooling.

2003 - GM redesigned all upper and lower intake gaskets to reduce and/or prevent cracking and further coolant leaks from the series II.

2005 - I publish my definitive fix for all Series II motors!

(Series III motors do not suffer these afflections.)






Disconnect the NEGATIVE side battery cable.

Clean all bolts with a fine wire wheel then degrees them with brake clean.

Use thread locker for intake bolts.

"Repeat" all torque procedures at least once in sequence.

Use smooth motions with torque wrenches. (Not jerking motions.)

Hose engine off thoroughly prior to work. (Dirt and debris falling into the engine internals is bad!)


***2-Intake Replacement - UPPER

-When removing the Throttle Body "Support Bracket" lower bolt you may be dumbfounded. Yes this bolt is hard to get to and its a real pain. You may have to remove the exhaust crossover to gain access if you dont have the right tool. All you have to do is loosen it slightly and push it aside. Afterwards you can pull it off and notch out the side of it to make future access easier. 

-Use Anti Seize Compound on the exhaust bolts durring installation. Give each bolt 3 full turns then rotate through the other bolts. This will allow the exaust to be tighted down evenly and will help avoid leaks and bind ups.

-The fuel rail does not need to be disconnected. Leave the fuel injectors stuck in the rail if you can. Also bleed off excess fuel pressure into a rag. Lightly oil the o-rings of the injectors before re-installing.


***3-Intake Manifold Replacement - LOWER

-Place clean lent free rags over the valve train oil valley. (Plastic works as well.)

-Use a razor blade to clean the surfaces of the heads, carefully and slowly.

-Do not use anything that can damage aluminum on the lower intake. Steel scrappers can damage the surface. A brass or plastic scrapper would be a better alternative. 

-Vacuum debris out of ports.

-During install, do test runs prior to installing with wet rtv. If something is in the way or missed its better to see it ahead of the final instalation.




***4-Drive Belt Tensioner Replacement

-This pulls straight out. The plastic elbo o-rings may be in a bind. Carefully pry around when removing this unit.



***5-Draining and Filling Cooling System

-Must drain cooling system prior to intake removal. Coolant in the oil or combustion chambers is bad. Anything left on the lower intake should be sucked or soaked up prior to removal. Despose of coolant properly. (Ignore the ignorant online slander and use Dexcool!) Purge all air from the system and fill the cooling system to the "HOT" line. 



***6-Thermostat Replacement

-The radiator hose does not need to be removed from the water neck. Just remove the water neck.

-Notice the brass screw on top. This is where you bleed air out of the system when you finish everything up.




*ALLOW RTV TO SET UP BEFORE ADDING COOLANT OR STARTING THE VEHICLE

*Change oil ASAP after work is complete and the engine has been test ran. Coolant will likely have entered the system despite precautions.







