Welcome to Historic Selma. We're glad you have come to see our city's beautiful old homes and landmarks. This tour is designed to be taken at a slow, leisurely pace. At this time we would like to tell you some background information about the colored shields located on many of the historic homes. The blue shields represent antebellum homes which were built prior to or during the Civil War up to the date of 1865. The yellow shields are on homes built after 1865 but constructed prior to 1910. The green shields represent homes built after 1910 which are over 50 years old.
The tour starts in front of The Peoples Bank and Trust Company, the sponsor of this windshield tour. You should be in the right hand lane of Broad Street, with the Peoples Bank to your left, facing the Edmund Pettus Bridge in the distance. This is the historic downtown area. You will turn right at the first intersection after the bank, which is the corner of Dallas and Broad Streets. Notice to your right before turning, the First Presbyterian Church. It was organized in 1838. The clock in the tower is a Seth Thomas Clock and belongs to the City of Selma. The City is responsible for its maintenance. The church property is the site of the famous Banksiae Rose. The Rose, commonly known as the Lady Banksiae, shed its petals as the body of the minister of the church was brought from the Battle of Selma, of which he was a casualty.
Stay in the right lane on Dallas Avenue and turn right again at the first traffic light, which is Lauderdale.
To your left and on the corner, 401 Lauderdale, is the Hobbs Home, believed to be original to the property and constructed in 1825. It is said that this is the oldest home in Selma and one of the few Federalist Cottages left in this area.
Further up Lauderdale and to your right, 418 Lauderdale, is the Mitchell home. Historians have established that part of the home's structure was on the property prior to 1842. The part with the romantic turret, given the Victorian style, was there prior to 1898.
Continue going north on Lauderdale. To your right at 436 Lauderdale is the Burns-Coffee home. Built between 1879 and 1890, the home is filled with heart-pine lumber and 12-inch baseboards. Lucien Burns was the mayor of Selma for 17 years. The Burns resided here until after Mayor Burns' death. In 1972, Anna Burns sold the house to the Coffees.
Grace Hall, 506 Lauderdale is of Italianate style built around 1857. The house is currently owned by Coy and Joey Dillon who operate a bed-and-breakfast. You may wish to pause and read the historic marker.
Continue north and travel one block until you reach McLeod Avenue, then turn left.
On this corner, 615 Lauderdale, is the Weaver House. This house is of Gothic design and is said to be copied from a castle on the Rhine. William Weaver, a prominent land owner, built it in 1868. His father was one of Selma's founders. The home is located in the center of what was once known as Weaver's Grove. The sand bricks were made in a kiln built on the site for this purpose. The walnut woodwork was cut from trees grown in the grove.
Please turn left onto Church Street.
On the right at 627 Church, is Ashford. Built in 1903, this is a Victorian house of Neo-Classical design.
Next door, at 619 Church, is the Rutledge House. It was moved here from Cahawba, the first permanent capital of Alabama.
The house on the left was also moved from Cahawba. It was the home of Senator John Tyler Morgan and was moved by oxcart in numbered sections in 1859. We know Senator Morgan's family lived in the house in Cahawba for his son etched his name, John H. Morgan, on a window pane using his mother's diamond ring.
At the intersection of Church Street and Abbott Avenue, you will see Kingston. Built in 1867 of Italianate design, it was once owned by Confederate Captain Joseph Forney Johnston, who served as Governor of Alabama from 1896 to 1900 and as U.S. Senator from 1907 to 1913. This was also the home of Dr. Goldsby King. Note the fretwork and beautiful ruby etched windows on the front porch. The fretwork was manufactured in Selma in 1867 at the local foundry.
Across the street at 423 Church, is Buschleigh, owned by Dr. and Mrs. Noah. Leaded glass windows, intricate mantels, and unusual woodwork enhance its beauty. It was built in 1906 by Ernest Lamar as a wedding gift for his daughter.
Also on your right, at 411 Church, you will notice the home of Bill and Sylvia Smith. This home, which was built in the late 1800's is a combination of several styles of architecture. In 1899 it was sold to the Marshall family who operated a livery stable and had large farming interests. It remained in the family until 1966. The Smiths purchased the home in 1985.
On your right, at 401 Church, is the Lee-Butler home, which is of the Greek Revival era and built in 1840. Thomas Helm Lee, a cousin of Robert E. Lee, designed and built this home. Mr. Lee was also responsible for building Sturdivant Hall, which you will see later in this tour.
On your left at 406 Church is the Williams House. It is a fine example of a Victorian Cottage. The dwelling next door, 400 Church is the parent house. The building behind this house was the stable for horses belonging to the Shearon Breslin family, funeral directors who built this house.
To your right on the opposite corner across from the Lee-Butler home is the Lanford-Portis-Smith home, built in 1892. Actress Jessica Lange lived in this house during the filming of the movie "Blue Sky."
Next on your right, 327 Church is an example of Queen Anne and Neo-Classical architecture. This home is known as Churchview and was constructed in 1893 by Ernest Lamar. In the back corner of the garden next to Churchview you will see a unique playhouse. It is a turret that was originally on the house that stood where the gardens are now located.
To your left, at 308 Church, is the Dubose home. This home was part of the Dubose Estate and was deeded to three of the local churches (Methodist, Episcopalian, and Presbyterian). Miss Lillian Dubose had specified in her will that the home was not to be torn down. In her fear that the Baptists would tear the home down for use as a parking lot, she deeded the home to the three churches hoping the home would be left intact. The churches decided to auction off the home. It is now owned by the Barkers, who were drawn to Selma by their interest in Selma's own "Sleeping Prophet," Edgar Cayce.
Turn right onto Dallas Avenue. Stay in the right lane (you will be turning right again at the next intersection).
Notice the many Victorian homes on this block. On your right at 725 Dallas, is the Walker-Plant house. It was built in 1915 and was the setting for many scenes in the movie "The Heart is a Lonely Hunter' starring Alan Arkin. This home is one of the few examples of Georgian architecture.
To the left is the Victorian Calloway-Talton house. It was built in 1884 after the original home which was located on this lot burned. Mrs. Calloway, the home owner, was able to retrieve her cigar box which contained her savings of $2,500. She used the money to finance the building of this house.
Turn right on Mabry Street.
This street was formerly known as Donation Street. On the right side (316 Mabry) is the Waller-McLeod house circa 1870. This cottage has been restored.
At 330 Mabry is Miss Ruth May's Cottage. This Victorian cottage, built in the early 1870's was renovated by its current owners, Glenn and Sharon Brown. It includes a new addition which exemplifies the possibilities of modernization and enlargement of an older home while maintaining the architectural lines of the period.
To your left and on the corner at 329 Mabry, is the Phillips-Hobbs-Joyce house, which was built in 1837 by a son of one of the original founders of the Selma Land Company. This Greek Revival dwelling was purchased by S.F. Hobbs, the great-grandfather of the present owner, Rosa Miller Hobbs Joyce. A native of Maine, Mr. Hobbs purchased a jewelry store from a newspaper ad and later moved to Selma, where he fell in love with a Southern lady. When Federal troops attacked Selma in 1864, Mr. Hobbs was serving in the Confederate Army against his six Yankee brothers. This home was damaged by a cannon ball, but the silver from the jewelry store, which was hidden in the weatherboarding of the rear of the house was not harmed. Pieces of jewelry were saved by Mrs. Hobbs, who sewed them into her petticoat.
Turn right onto Parkman. Follow Parkman for one block, pausing a moment before turning left onto Tremont.
On the corner of Tremont and Parkman is the Greek Revival Parkman-Martin home. It was built prior to 1839 by Elias Parkman, who opened the fifth business in Selma. It is considered to be one of the city's oldest homes and is owned by Nancy Corr Martin. To the left of the house is a small building known as Miss Kitty Young's School. "Miss Kitty" and her two sisters purchased the home in 1887 and operated the Home High School for nearly fifty years. One of the features of the school was the diplomas, which were made by one of the sisters on real sheepskin and awarded to the children at the end of each year.
Turn left onto Tremont Street.
To your left is the Tremont house, built in the 1880's by the Woolseys. This Victorian structure is noted for its stained glass windows and square cupola.
Next you will note Kelso Cottage, 509 Tremont. This Italianate raised cottage was built in 1868. The out-buildings include an old fashioned smoke house and servants' quarters.
The large brick Queen Anne home on your right (510 Tremont) is the Strother house. This home was buift in 1903 by Harry Smith.
Across the street, at the next corner, is the Tremont School, once the high school for the city. Plans are underway for renovation of the school, which will be the Tremont Community Cultural Center.
Continuing on Tremont, please notice on your right, 522, 530, and 600 are examples of pre-Civil War homes with strong Victorian and Neo-Classical influences. Both 530 and 600 Tremont are constructed of portions of homes moved here from Cahawba.
Moving north on Tremont to your right, at 606, you will note Italianate homes remodeled and combined to act as a residence and an accounting office.
On your left is Meriwether, 609 Tremont. This home is of Neo-Classical design and was built in the 1880's by Dr. Thomas Gary, who moved to Selma before 1877 and entered into the wholesale grocery and cotton business. The house was inherited by his son, and his daughters built homes directly behind and beside it (the vacant lot to the south). Dr. Gary's granddaughter, Eleanor Gary Meriwether, sold the house to new owners who restored it.
On your left, next to Meriwether, is the historic antebellum home built by Dr. A. G. Mabry, one of Selma's leading citizens. The home was built in three sections, each at a different time, and is Greek Revival in style. The stepdaughter of the original owner married Captain Catesby ap R. Jones, a Confederate Naval Officer who was sent to Selma to take charge of the foundry (at that time, Selma was the second most important munitions center in the South). Captain Jones was one of the designers of the ironclad, Virginia, also known as the Merrimac. Also he was the Commander of the Merrimac during the battle of the Merrimac and the Monitor. Roger ap Catesby Jones and his wife Edris are the present owners. Throughout this tour, you will see large carriage stones and hitching posts in front of the homes. Most are original to the homes, like the one seen here in front of the Mabry home.
To your left, 703, is a house of Greek Revival influence and believed to have been moved to Selma from Cahawba, where it was said to have been the Governor's house. This house is also said to have been the model for the White House of the Confederacy, located in Montgomery.
On your right, 700 Tremont, is the Converse House. The house which formerly occupied this lot was that of Confederate Col. and Mrs. N.H.R. Dawson. Col. Dawson was once the U.S. Commissioner of Education and his third wife, Elodie B. Todd, was the half-sister of Mary Todd Lincoln. The beautiful doors of this home were originally used on the Dawson home.
To your left, 709, is the Wilkinson-Lovelady home built in the early 1900's and is Neo-Classical in style. Notice the intricate leaded glass entry.
The next dwelling to your left is the John Tyler Morgan House. It was named for its second owner who was a U.S. Senator for over thirty years. It is Greek Revival in style and was built in 1869 by Thomas Whetmore. Presently owned by the Alabama Historical Commission, it houses displays and information on Cahawba. Many of Selma's historic homes were moved from Cahawba due to the great amount of flooding that occurred there. The house is open by appointment and during special events. The site of Cahawba itself is open for visitors seven days a week from 9 am to 5 p.m.
At the intersection of Tremont and Jeff Davis Avenue, turn left (remain in the left lane, you will only be on Jeff Davis for one block).
While on Jeff Davis, you will notice to your right, the Knox Reformed Presbyterian Church, founded in 1870. It is a classically Southern church style, which was raised for air circulation. It was formed to serve and educate part of the black community in Selma and was an outgrowth of several small missions in the city and outlying areas and of Knox Academy, a school.
Turn left onto Mabry Street.
Notice on your right the Blake-Gantt house. This antebellum home was built between 1861 and 1867. During the Civil War, ladies were in this home preparing bandages when a cannon ball pierced the roof. Fortunately, no one was injured.
On your left you will notice several examples of Victorian style homes.
White-Force Cottage is the white frame house on your right at 813 Mabry. It was the home of Martha Todd White, a half-sister to Mary Todd Lincoln. Her husband was not a military man so the couple was able to visit Washington during the War Between the States. They were given escorts through the Federal lines and were able to smuggle medical supplies back to the South. It was also the home of Miss M.M. Force, Selma's first post mistress. White-Force Cottage is open by appointment as a tea room and for special catered events.
The small white building next to White-Force Cottage is the Fitts building, constructed between 1830 and 1840. It was used as a pharmacy and physician's office and moved to this spot from a plantation near Uniontown.
The dwelling on the corner is known as Sturdivant Hall Museum and is said to be one of the finest examples of Neo-Classical-Greek Revival architecture. Please pull over to the right and take a moment to read the historic marker in front of Sturdivant. Sturdivant Hall and its museum gift shop are open for tours daily except Mondays.
Continue south on Mabry, pulling over to your right at the corner of Mabry and McLeod. On your right is Heritage Village, a project of our local Historic Society. Located on this site are the Gillis House (the larger house facing Mabry), the McKinnon-Riggs doctor's office and the Calhoun law office. The small green building in the back is known as the Siegel servants' quarters and the gray structure to the left and in front of the Siegel building is a turn-of-the-century pigeon cote. These houses have been fully renovated and are used for special events like the Historic Pilgrimage. Behind the village area is a quaint aqua cottage known as Miss Minnie Sue's. This dwelling was constructed in 1830 and was moved from the lot which is now Heritage Village to its present lot.
Continue southward on Mabry. On your left, 620 Mabry, is the home used for filming the movie "The Heart is a Lonely Hunter" starring Alan Arkin.
Follow Mabry, crossing the intersection of Furniss Avenue. The homes to the left are at least 100 years old, and have been altered through the years, but have their notable charms. Note the exquisite leaded glass entrance of the home at 520 Mabry.
On your right is Dunn Nursing Home. The main structure was built in 1850. It was later known as King Memorial Hospital and since the 1950's has been a nursing home.
Continuing on Mabry you will notice on your left at 430 Mabry the Howell residence, which is French Colonial in style. Built in the late 1820's, its features include brick walls layered three bricks deep. The gardens are reminiscent of New Orleans style.
The next dwelling to your left, 410 Mabry, is the Swift-Gamble home which is Greek Revival in style. This home is believed to have been moved from Cahawba. It is being restored by its present owners.
The four homes on your right are samples of Victorian cottages built in the early 1900's.
Go straight, crossing the intersection of Mabry and Parkman for one block to the traffic light marking Dallas Avenue. Turn right onto Dallas Avenue, stay in the right lane.
Immediately to your left at 625 Dallas Avenue is an Italianate home built between 1872-73, which is commonly known as the Bloch-James home. It is owned by Paul and Sarah James.
On your right there are many examples of Greek Revival and Victorian cottages distinctive to the late 1890's and early 1900's. Notice in particular the Catherine Heather (619 Dallas) which combines Victorian, Georgian, and Italianate styles. This home has been beautifully restored by its owner, Mrs. Leon Morgan.
Turn right onto Union Street.
On your right you will notice the delightful salmon and gray home. This was constructed between 1895-96 by James Nunnlee, editor and publisher of the "Selma Morning Times". Mr. Nunnlee deeded the property to his wife in 1896. The house holds styling from Federalist Italianate to Victorian.
Pause at the intersection of Parkman and Union. To your left is an Italianate style home constructed around the 1860's.
Please notice the leaded glass in the Tudor style house at 415 Union. The Atkins-Duncan house built in 1918 has other fine examples of stained glass, though they are not visible from the street. The current owners, Arthur and Candi Duncan have restored it themselves.
On your left at 431 Union is the Robbins-Moseley home which was built around 1864 by John Robbins, the owner of Dallas Iron Works. The front porch posts are made of iron. The Italianate style house was bought and renovated in 1938 by Dr. and Mrs. Samuel O. Moseley, Sr. In 1987, their granddaughter, Margaret Moseley Utsey and her husband Randy purchased and restored the home. They currently reside there.
Across the street at 434 Union is "The House of Adventures". It is a pre-Civil War home that is Federal in style. The upstairs burned in the late 1800's and was replaced by a carpetbagger in the Victorian style. It was moved to this lot, but the owners, Sam and Angie Golson, are not sure of its previous location. Because of the water damaged first floor, they speculate that it came from Cahawba. From 1871 to 1898, this was a house of prostitution. During this time period, it was allowed if the owner obtained a business license! The Golsons are the fourth owners since that time. During their restoration of the home, they have discovered bones in the walls, a grave in the back yard, and a stone hearth in the kitchen.
Next door on your right is the Majors home, which is an example of Greek Revival architecture. Note the ruby etched glass above the front door.
The intersection of Union and Furniss begins the Fairoaks Square neighborhood, which was a renovation project consisting of one square block of 13 homes refurbished by Circle "S" Industries of Selma. These cottages typify the houses built in southern cities around the turn of the century.
Cross Furniss Avenue and continue on Union.
To your left is Henderson House. This Greek Revival home was refurbished by Circle "S" Industries as well and is used for special events. Henderson House is said to be the site of the Union Hospital during the Battle of Selma. You may wish to stop and read the historic marker.
Continue northward on Union. The eye-catching rainbow of colors used on these homes has added life to these early-1900's homes.
At the intersection of McLeod and Union please turn left and follow McLeod for one block. Turn left onto Lapsley.
On your left is a continuation of the Fairoaks Square neighborhood. On your right is Byrd Elementary School, built in 1919.
On your right, at the corner of Lapsley and Furniss is the Williamson house. Notable features of this home are the stained glass in the second story window and the iron fence surrounding the back of the home. This fence was originally used to fence people in and was moved to this location from the old county jail. The house was built by the Carlisle family around 1875. It is one of the few private homes in Selma that has an elevator.
Cross the intersection and continue going south on Lapsley. On your right, at 509, is a home built in 1901. This home is unique with its leaded and stained glass windows. There are twelve Corinthian columns on the front porch.
Next door on the hill, 439 Lapsley, is the Quarles house. This antebellum home was built by Colonel Washington McMurray Smith in 1859. During the Battle of Selma, the first floor of the home was used as a hospital for Union Troops, while the Smith women and children were allowed to reside upstairs. Col. Smith was the president of the Selma Bank. Prior to the Union invasion of Selma, Col. Smith hid the bank's gold in the left column on the front porch. The Union troops never found the gold. A hole was bored into the column and the gold was taken back to the bank. This is one of the few antebellum homes still occupied by descendants of the original founding families.
To your left, 500 Lapsley, is an excellent example of Victorian architecture. The lot was purchased in 1904 for $1,275 and the home was built between 1904 and 1906. It had numerous owners until, on the verge of being condemned, it was purchased in 1989 and beautifully restored.
A short distance up to your left, 428 Lapsley, is Dean Cottage. This Greek Revival home was once the Rectory for St. Paul's Episcopal Church.
To your right, at 427, is a Victorian style home. The property was held in trust for Mrs. Margaret Barnwell, widow of Robert Woodwarm Barnwell, Rector of St. Paul's from 1880 to 1900 and Bishop of Alabama from 1900 to 1902. It was sold in the 1940's. It has recently undergone a delightful renovation.
Cross the intersection of Parkman and Lapsley.
Notice to your left, 330 Lapsley, the sandstone building known as the Ellis-Hooper house. This house was built in 1904.
The house to your right, 309 Lapsley, is known as the Roy-Moore home. This Italianate structure was occupied at one time by General Hardee's daughter, Mrs. T. B. Roy.
Next, at 307, was the home of General William Hardee, author of the book "Infantry and Rifle Tactics" used by both sides during the Civil War. The home was constructed in 1865 and has undergone extensive remodeling since that time.
Turn left onto Dallas Avenue.
To your left is the Thrash home, 509 Dallas. It was built in the late 1880's by Edward G. Gregory. It was sold in 1894 and remained in the same family until the present owners purchased it in 1986.
The vacant lot to your right was once the home of the Armstrong family. The home suffered a fire in the 1960's and in an effort to save some of its antebellum beauty, the Peoples Bank purchased the banquet hall and had it restored to its original beauty. The Armstrong Banquet Hall now serves as the main lobby for the Mall branch of the Peoples Bank.
On the same side of the street, 519 Dallas, is another fine house. Note the leaded glass entrance and the many different types of wood used on this home. Built around 1880, it is owned by Schuster and Jerry Siegel, whose family has always owned it.
At the corner on your right is the Perkins-Baker house, built prior to 1861. It remained in the same family until 1989, when it was purchased by architect Dick Hudgens.
Next is the George Baker house, which was built prior to 1861. The grounds of this home were the scene of a skirmish during the fall of Selma. A wounded Union Soldier crawled under the staircase and died following the battle. A fire in 1953 destroyed the top floor of the home. In an effort to salvage the home, a roof and a cupola were added. The ceilings on the ground floor are gold leaf. Not visible from the street are some fine examples of etched and pressed glass. Other features of the house are lincrusta (a tooled leather wall covering), and Victorian influences, such as parquet floors, which were added in the late 1800's.
Behind the Baker house sits the Baker carriage apartment. It was constructed at the same time as the house by George Baker, a mining engineer. In back of the property, there is an original well used by the family and servants. This well is covered by a latticed arbor.
Continue traveling on Dallas Avenue (you will turn right at the third light).
Please notice, after the second light, to your right, Church Street United Methodist Church. The architecture is Romanesque Revival, built in 1901. The stained glass is just one of its notable features.
Turn right at the third light, onto Lauderdale Street.
Immediately to your left is the First Baptist Church, which is French Gothic in style. The most fascinating features of this church are the gargoyles on the top tower and the beautiful Tiffany stained glass windows.
In the middle of the block and to the right is the Gamble House. The structure is probably antebellum and was constructed prior to 1878. The house is currently used by St. Paul's Episcopal Church as Sunday school rooms and as preschool classrooms.
Across the street and to your left is St. Paul's Episcopal Church. The parish was organized in 1838. The original building was burned by Wilson's Raiders in 1865, with the present structure completed in 1875. The building is English Gothic with a slate roof and houses many Tiffany stained glass windows.
At the intersection of Lauderdale and Selma Avenue, look across the street and to your left. This was originally the Walton Theatre. It was refurbished and is now the Larry D. Striplin Performing Arts Centre, which hosts many special events throughout the year.
Please turn right at the intersection of Selma and Lauderdale.
As you approach the intersection of Church Street, look to your right down Church and notice the Plant-Patterson house at 209 Church Street. Built between 1891 and 1895 by P.T. Vaughan, it was purchased by William Henry Plant in 1913 and is now owned by his granddaughter, Mary Ann Patterson, and her husband Scott. They renovated the home in 1981, retaining the charm and grace of earlier days with the conveniences of today.
Immediately after crossing Church Street, look to your left at the large red brick building known as Dallas Academy. This building originally housed a school which originated through the efforts of the Ladies' Educational Society of Selma, and donations made by many of Selma's wealthy citizens. Through the years, Dallas Academy endured many hardships until the early 1960's when the school closed. Dallas Academy is currently the center for programs of the Arts and Humanities and other civic groups.
Just past the intersection of Selma and Mabry on the left at 626 Selma, is the Platt-Lewis home. Neo-Classical in design, it was built around 1849 by Dr. Elias Parkman. This home has remained in the Lewis family since 1856, the year Charles Lewis acquired it from William Platt. According to its history, the home was saved from the burning and looting of the Battle of Selma due to the fact that Mr. Lewis was a mason; it was saved by a fellow mason, a yankee lieutenant.
Notice to your right, at 613 Selma, the Parke-Soppet home. This Greek Revival home was constructed in the late 1850's as a wedding present from Mr. and Mrs. John Swift to their daughter, Lucinda Parke.
On your right, at 613 Selma, is the Wilkinson home. This pre-Civil War structure is said to have had the brick portions of the home moved here from Cahawba prior to 1850.
At 610 Selma Ave., you will see a beautiful High Victorian home built around 1907. Please notice the leaded windows around the front door. The house also has lovely woodwork. The director of the movie "Body Snatchers III" lived here during the filming in the Winter and Spring of 1992.
Directly across the street, at 607 Selma Ave., is the home of the Trotter family. It was built around 1892 and was home to several families over the years. Interestingly, the Trotters have reason to believe, as did other owners before them, that the house has a presence. They hesitate to use the word "ghost." Research has disclosed that a young man who resided in the house died in 1941. His funeral was held in the dining room of the house. Many sightings and other occurrences have left little doubt that something or someone shares the house with the Trotters.
On your left at the next intersection, at 602 Selma, is the Hunter home. This Victorian home was built in 1895 by Charles D. Hunter. Through the years, the original roof line and porch have been altered. This home has remained in the original family since it was first constructed.
To your right is the Milhouse-Childers home, built between 1858 and 1861. The house was originally a one-story stucco structure and underwent additions in 1902. Mrs. Milhouse inherited $2,500 and thought she was rich. She proceeded to alter the home, then ran out of money and finished the second story with shingles.
In the next block and to your right, the small building in the middle of the lot and to the back was once the schoolhouse for the Baker children. The Bakers owned the entire block and its dwellings at one time.
Before turning right onto Lapsley, look down Selma Avenue to your left and notice the Calico Cottage, a charming gift shop.
Turn right onto Lapsley Street.
The area to the left is known as Mallory Alley.
The yellow cottage (213 Lapsley) once known as the Haralson-Carmichael house was built circa 1869 and until recently housed a children's gift and antique shop.
The house next door, 219 Lapsley, was owned by John Chapman and built around 1900.
Turn left at the intersection of Dallas and Lapsley. You will follow Dallas Avenue for approximately one and a half blocks. Turn left into the Old Live Oak Cemetery at the second traffic signal.
After you pass through the large iron gates of this beautiful old cemetery, please notice on the right the marker and tomb of William Rufus King, Selma's Vice President, and the monument of Senator John Tyler Morgan. Many of Selma's most prominent citizens are buried here.
Continue through the cemetery and through the next intersection. This is Selma Avenue. To your right is an area known as the Riverview area and another part of Selma's Historic District. Many of the homes in this area are currently undergoing restoration.
Stay on King Street for one block until you reach Lamar Avenue, then turn left onto Lamar.
At 318 Lamar are the Hall-Boggs Apartments. Built in the early 1800's, this house had one of the first bathtubs in Selma. It has been converted into apartments.
The Lamar-Guy house, circa 1850, is at 508 Lamar Avenue. Behind this house, there were once tunnels which led from this house to the present Smitherman Historic Building, and from there to the river. It has been speculated that these tunnels were used as escape tunnels or just as passages to connect the Smitherman building, which was once the courthouse, to the house.
Turn right onto Union and go one half block.
To your right, the large red brick and white columned building is now known as the Smitherman Building. Since its original construction by the masonic order to house a school, the building has been used as a confederate hospital, courthouse, and a regional hospital. The building is now owned by the city and named after Selma's infamous mayor, Joseph T. Smitherman.
You may notice, over your left shoulder and on the corner of Alabama and Union, the Philpot house. Constructed in 1852, Mrs. Philpot demonstrated her women's liberation by having the home constructed by slave labor while her husband was away on business, Years later, during the Battle (and burning) of Selma, Mrs. Philpot saved her home from burning by organizing a bucket brigade. The home is a lovely example of the raised cottage style brought up from Mobile.
Turn left onto Alabama Avenue (notice the many Victorian cottages in this block which are still used as businesses and homes).
At 627 Alabama Ave. you will find the Wood house. This was at one time the home of Mr. Leslie Devotie, a Baptist minister who drowned in Mobile Bay while boarding a Confederate vessel. It is said that the first Confederate Flag was used to drape his coffin. Mr. Devotie was one of the founders of the Sigma Alpha Epsilon Fraternity. The house is presently used by the Furniss and Vaughan accounting firm.
Notice to your right the lovely raised cottage recently renovated and used for apartments. The area behind the cottage and the next block over to your right are known as Arsenal Place because the Confederate arsenal was located here during the Civil War. The large arsenal and foundry employed some 10,000 people and was the reason Selma was chosen for destruction during the War.
In the next block, to your left, at 711 Alabama Avenue, is the Keith house. This house is believed to have been built in 1880. The home was purchased by Marshall A. Keith in 1884 and has remained in the same family since. It is presently used as insurance and law offices. The Gothic design is rather novel for this section of the country.
Further up on your right, 808 Alabama, is the Riggs-Morgan house. The house was built in 1843. It was purchased by Mr. Louis S. Riggs in 1863 and has been in the same family since that time. The house now belongs to Mrs. Roy Morgan whose husband was a descendant of Mr. Riggs.
Also on your right at 900 Alabama, is the Berry house, built by Dr. John A. McKinnon sometime after 1877. The grill work on this house is especially beautiful and was made here in Selma's foundry.
Next door to the Berry house is the U.S. Courthouse and Federal Building, which was built in 1909 and has been placed on the National Register of Historic American Places. The arch in front of the building is to honor Selma's two great senators, Senator John Tyler Morgan and Senator Edmund Winston Pettus.
Across the street is the Dallas County Courthouse, which was the scene of many civil rights historic events (1964-5).
Turn right onto Church Street, travel one block, and turn left onto Water Avenue.
This begins our historic Water Avenue District. At 1012 Water Avenue is the National Voting Rights Museum, where displays of memorabilia honoring attainment of the U.S. Voting Rights Act of 1965 are housed. At 1018 Water Avenue is located the Selma Times Journal. This newspaper, located in a Storefront Victorian building typical of the early 1870's, has been published continually since 1828. Earlier uses of this building include a wholesale grocery business and an agriculture and implement business.
The Edmund Pettus Bridge, to your right, was the scene of the Selma to Montgomery march in 1965. The demonstrations which occurred here led to the Civil Rights Act of 1965. It was erected in 1939 and named after U.S. Senator Edmund Winston Pettus.
The "Songs of Selma" park was created by the city from a vacant lot where the Baker building once stood. It housed a general merchandise store, a hardware store, and at the time of its burning, a fine restaurant.
At the end of the first block past the bridge you will find the Selma Mini Mall. It houses several shops including an antique shop, an artist's studio, a sandwich shop, and a frame shop. You can get the feel of downtown Water Avenue by strolling through this area.
Down the side of this building, you will see the Bridge Tender's cottage, which was used when Selma's turn bridge was in operation. It now contains an heirloom sewing shop. This area is known as Lafayette Park (a sign describing it is in the next block). It also contains a red railroad caboose and a lathe used in the Confederate ordnance works.
The yellow building on your right was once the St. James Hotel. It is the only existing riverfront hotel in the Southeast. The St. James was a luxury hotel during the days when Cotton was King. When its owner went off to fight the war, he left his trusted slave Benjamin Sterling Turner to run the hotel in his absence. After the Union Army seized the city, it set up its headquarters here. Turner later set up a livery stable, became the richest black man in the area, and was elected to the U.S. House of Representatives. Another interesting note is that the outlaw Jesse James is said to have visited this hotel. Plans are underway for the renovation of the St. James.
Straight ahead, at the foot of Historic Water Avenue, you will see the Old Depot Museum , which houses mementos of the men and women who helped make Selma the "Queen City of the Blackbelt." A tour of the Old Depot Museum runs the gamut from Civil War to Civil Rights - from William Rufus King, one of Selma's founders in 1819, to Martin Luther King, the Nobel Peace Prize winner who led voting rights demonstrations here in 1965.
Note the marker on the corner of Water Avenue and Martin Luther King, Jr. Street. This was the site of the Civil War foundry in operation from 1860 to 1865, where the ironclad "Tennessee" was built.
Turn left onto Martin Luther King, Jr. Street. Drive two blocks to Selma Avenue.
As you cross Selma Avenue, you enter the area where the Civil Rights leaders and demonstrators camped in the street in protest in 1965. At 410 Martin Luther King, Jr. Street is the Brown Chapel AME Church where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. led the 1965 demonstrations. This site was the base for many mass meetings. It was also the first AME Church in Alabama. It was here that state conventions were organized. The congregation of this church first met in 1866. This church was built in 1906. It is Byzantine in style with particularly beautiful rose windows.
On the corner of Martin Luther King, Jr. Street and Jeff Davis Avenue is the First Baptist Church. It was the financial headquarters of the Voting Rights Movement. Several years ago, a tornado ripped through the center of the church. It has been beautifully renovated.
Turn left onto Jeff Davis Avenue. Travel three blocks and turn left onto Franklin Street.
Continue on Franklin until you come to Selma Avenue. The First Christian Church is on this corner. It was organized in 1854. This building was built in 1906. Note the lovely stained glass.
Turn right onto Selma Avenue. Continue until you reach Broad Street, then turn right onto Broad Street.
On your right is the municipal complex located on the former site of the Old Hotel Albert. The complex consists of the Selma-Dallas County Public Library, the Convention Center and City Hall. It was completed in 1976. Please note beside City Hall, the large cannon. The Brooke Cannon was originally made in Selma's foundry which was destroyed in the Civil War. The cannon was located in Washington, D.C. and brought to Selma as a loan from the U.S. Government in the 1970's.
As you continue northward on Broad Street, through the intersection of Dallas Avenue, you will again see to your left the First Presbyterian Church and another view of the clock tower.
Just ahead to your right is The Peoples Bank and Trust Company and the end of your tour. We hope you enjoyed your tour and your introduction to some of Selma's delightful structures. Selma is noted for having the largest Historic District in the state, some 1,200 homes. In an effort to keep our tour shorter, we only included about half of Selma's unique history. If you desire additional information about Selma, please feel free to ask us for any of the other tours that are available. Again, we appreciate your interest in Selma and hope you will enjoy your stay in our historic city.
The GHOST TOUR
A printed version of this is available at the Visitor Information Center
2207 Broad Street, open 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily.
BEGIN THE TOUR
GRACE HALL
(Available for group tours only)
At this beautifully restored antebellum home you will be treated to viewing an actual picture of the ghost believed to be "Miz Eliza", who has been a regular guest since 1982 when Grace Hall became a Bed & Breakfast. Several other ghosts have been spotted over the years for a total of five spirits believed to share the home with the Dillons and their guests.
Travel North on Lauderdale to the traffic light at the intersection of Lauderdale and Furniss. Turn left and travel two blocks. Turn left onto Tremont Street. One block down on the right is the next place to pause.
GERALD
Gerald lives at 501 Tremont Street, the gray house on your right. The owner of this home says that "Gerald" is a very strong willed spirit who gets upset when things are changed in the house. He wanders freely through the house and moves things around when they are not to his liking. He seems to have several spots where he does not want anything put, one being a shelf in the kitchen which he has claimed. Any item put there is promptly moved, never broken, simply moved to another area. "Gerald" communicates with the mother and children is this family, who have never seen him, only felt his presence.
You will turn left on Abbott Avenue which is directly across the street from "Gerald's" house and go one block to Church Street. Turn right. At the first traffic light turn right on Dallas Avenue or Highway 22. Two blocks down on you left, on the first corner of the Dallas Avenue/Union Street intersection, is the George Baker house.
BAKER HOUSE
This house was built prior to 1861. The grounds of this home were the scene of a skirmish during the fall of Selma. A wounded Union soldier crawled under the staircase and died following the battle. They say the blood is still visible under those stairs today. The current residents hear footsteps upstairs even though the second story burned many years ago and was never replaced.
The Old Live Oak Cemetery will be on your left about one mile down. Turn left into the cemetery and park. Tour Old Live Oak.
CEMETERY TOUR
William Rufus King:
One of Cahawba's most illustrious inhabitants was William Rufus King. In his lifetime, King served as U.S. Senator, Ambassador to France and as Vice-President of the United States. King and associates organized a business called the Selma Land Company, which held its first auction in May of 1819. The name Selma, meaning high seat or throne, was chosen for the town envisioned by
Mr. King.
Senator John Tyler Morgan:
Morgan was first, foremost, and always a Southerner, often braving storms of protests from fellow Democrats to support measures that he felt to be in the best interest of Alabama and the rest of the South. Morgan is known as "the father of the Panama Canal", a measure he strongly supported. By 1860, Morgan was a leading political fixture who represented Dallas county at the state secession convention following the presidential election of Abraham Lincoln. Morgan voted in favor of secession and was soon commissioned to the Alabama Infantry as a major. He later recruited the 800-man 51st Alabama Cavalry where he became general. He was elected to the US Senate in 1876 and served for 30 years.
Grave of Rev. Arthur W. Small:
Minister of First Presbyterian Church, site of the famous Lady Banksiae rose which shed its petals as his body was brought from the Battle of Selma, of which he was a casualty.
John M. Parkman:
The legendary "ruined banker" that still resides at Sturdivant Hall which you will visit later in this tour.
Confederate General Edmund W. Pettus:
In 1858 Judge Pettus moved to Dallas County where he became a member of the law firm Pettus, Pegues, and Dawson. In 1861, he joined the Confederate Army at Cahawba. He was elected to the Senate in 1896. The bridge named in his honor opened in 1940 and was the sight of the Voting Rights march in the 1960's.
Benjamin Sterling Turner:
Turner was a slave to Dr. James Gee, owner of the St. James Hotel. While Dr. James Gee was off at war, Turner ran the hotel. He set up a stable and wood yards of his own. In 1862, Turner bought $200 worth of Confederate bonds and is said to have had more money than his former master by the time he was freed in 1865. In 1870, Turner became the first black congressman from Alabama.
Commander Catesby ap Roger Jones:
A native of Virginia, he commanded the naval ordinance works here and the Ironclad vessel "Merrimac" in the battle vs the Monitor. Jones also helped perfect the design of the famous Brooke Cannon, the largest and best made. He came to Selma in 1863 and married local girl, Gertrude Tartt.
The Jones family still resides in his home on Tremont Street and are still very prominent in the community. A fictionalized Commander Jones was featured in a Civil War series on television recently. Notice the "ap" preceding the middle name. This is a Welsh tradition that the family still follows today. It means son of, for example Catesby, son of, Roger Jones.
"Miz Eliza" - Eliza Evans Jones:
Born in 1856 and died in 1940. She moved into Grace Hall after the Civil War to help her widowed niece run the boarding house she had established there. (Groups may tour this Bed & Breakfast for the complete story of the ghost whose little black dog still remains by her side.)
Grave of Col. NHR Dawson & Elodie Todd Dawson (half-sister to Mary Todd Lincoln):
This statue was carved in Italy. When it arrived in Selma Mr. Dawson wasn't satisfied with the hair as it was not as beautiful as his wife's, so he returned it to Italy be re-done. NHR Dawson was one of Selma's leading citizens during the mid-1800's. He later became the first Alabamian ever to serve as a U.S. Commissioner of Education. Dawson was active in reorganizing the Democratic and Conservative party to oppose the Republicans during Reconstruction. In 1880, he was chosen Speaker of the Alabama House. He helped to raise money for both Dallas Academy and the city's Charity Hospital. He served as senior warden at St. Paul's Episcopal Church in Selma, where his funeral services were held.
Confederate Circle Monument:
Notice the graves of soldiers are to the south of the monument and the cannons point toward the north, forever protecting the brave men who died for their cause.
Exit the back of the cemetery and turn left onto Selma Avenue. Travel east on Selma Avenue three blocks looking for #607
on your left.
TROTTER HOME
His presence came as quietly as a breeze softly ruffling the leaves on a warm, summer day. A shadow seen from the corner of your eye in the quiet stillness of late afternoon, a fluttering in the lamp lit corner of the room, let them know that he was around and that the house was remembering... This family tried to rationalize away the many occurrences that their spirit seemed to cause while trying to get their attention. Doors open that had been firmly shut, lights turned on in empty rooms, knocks, steps, falling plants, exploding jars and floating balls of light are only a few happenings that made this family realize that they share their home with the unknown. Once they accepted this they began researching the former residents of the house. They soon discovered that a 21 year old young man, who lived in the boarding house with his mother, had met a tragic death. He was killed in an automobile accident. He died 50 years to the day before the new owners signed a contract on the house, lay in state in the dining room for three days and was buried 50 years to the day before the family moved into the house. Another uncanny, unexplainable circumstance is that one of the daughters had a boyfriend who could have been the twin brother of their presence. The family had obtained a photograph of him and were completely taken aback when they looked into the face so familiar to them. This home was featured in the FOX Network show Encounters which was filmed in Selma recently. The psychic connected with the show had several "brushes" with the spirit. He confirmed the suspicion of the owners of the house and also mentioned the presence of another entity. The family had seen her too. They believe that it is the boys mother who in death, just as in life, never seems to be far from his side.
Continue on Selma Avenue and turn left on Mabry, the next street. Continue north on Mabry four and one-half blocks until you see Sturdivant Hall on your left at 713. Please go inside for the guided tour and hear the story of John Parkman who is believed to still be residing in the home.
STURDIVANT HALL
Completed in 1853 by Colonel Edward T. Watts, the elegant mansion remained in the family until 1864 when it was purchased by John McGee Parkman, a young industrialist who went from a bank clerk to bank president in a few short years. Legend has it that while serving time in the federal prison at Cahawba for poor investment of bank funds, Parkman attempted a daring escape with the aid of his friends. It is believed that he was either shot to death or drowned after diving into the river. The volunteers at "the big house" can tell you story after story of the activities of John Parkman. Encounters even caught the front door opening and closing by itself on film for the segment they produced on Selma's ghosts.
Reverse your direction on Mabry and go one-half block. Turn left on McLeod Avenue and go three blocks to Lauderdale Street. As you turn right onto Lauderdale "The Castle" is above you on the right.
THE CASTLE
This German Gothic house even looks haunted at first glance because of its overgrown yard and long multipaned stained glass tracery windows beneath sharply pointed dormers. The Weaver house was completed in 1865 and is said to be copied from a castle on the Rhine. The Weavers were one of the founding families of Selma and their house stands in what once was a walnut grove which supplied craftsmen much of the wood used inside the home. The present owner first detected the presence not long after they moved in. She kept hearing faint music somewhere in the house when she lay in her bed at night. A few years later they began hearing voices speak to them. Once when the family dog was in the kitchen barking someone said "Dog, shut up!" Of course no one had been in the room with them at the time. Each time the voices are heard they are clear and distinct, there is never any doubt what has been said. A few years ago a friend was installing a ceiling fan while the owner was out of the house. While up on the ladder he was asked "What are you doing?" When the owner returned home she found her friend waiting outside, unwilling to re-enter the house alone. Another spooky episode was when the person delivering her paper in the wee hours of the morning noticed a light on in the attic. When the paper carrier, a fellow school teacher, mentioned it the owner replied that it couldn't have been because the attic isn't wired for electricity.
The BLACKBELT HUB & SPOKE TOUR
Make Selma, Alabama, "Queen City of the Blackbelt", your home for two nights and three days while you enjoy all that our region of Alabama has to offer. You'll find activities ranging from museum hopping to antique shopping and a full array of tempting delights to please any palate. Stroll down tree-lined streets and you'll feel like a Southern Belle will come around the corner in her hoop skirt carrying her parasol at any minute.
BEGIN THE TOUR
Day 1
History Lives in Selma . . . Discover hundreds of years of rich history from the Civil War through the Civil Rights.
Spend the morning reminiscing about days long gone. Follow the "Windshield Tour " which takes you through the largest historic district in the state - with over 1,200 historic structures. Visit famous antebellum Sturdivant Hall , a Greek Revival mansion designed by the cousin of Confederate General Robert E. Lee; the Old Live Oak Cemetery, listed on the National Historic Register and the Smitherman Historic Building , which has served as a school, a hospital, a seat of government and a civic building.
Lunch at one of Selma's several downtown eateries. Choose from a typical Southern caf�, a sandwich shop in a restored warehouse or a pub-like atmosphere where you can enjoy a walk along the river to refresh yourself after an indulgent meal.
Afternoon - Be sure to make time for a visit to Brown Chapel AME Church, where Martin Luther King, Jr. launched the Voting Rights Movement; then follow the Martin Luther King, Jr. Street Walking Tour and head to the Old Depot Museum for a great tour. The Depot houses a wonderful collection of artifacts that covers a full two floors of display area. Some refer to the Depot as the "King to King" museum because it encompasses Selma's history from William Rufus King, a founder of Selma, through Martin Luther King. Notice the century-old buildings that warehoused King Cotton and Civil War munitions. Selma was the second largest arsenal in the South during the Civil War, therefore was targeted for destruction.
Continue up Water Avenue, crossing the foot of the Edmund Pettus Bridge on your way to the National Voting Rights Museum Institute which houses memorabilia honoring the attainment of the right to vote.
Dinner is served at one of our colorful night spots. You could choose the pub on the river bank or go a couple of miles north for the charming atmosphere of a 50+ year old dinner club. As always, BBQ is another popular choice during any visit to Selma.
Day 2
Head to Marion, hometown of Coretta Scott King, for a riding tour of Judson College and Marion Military Institute's campuses. Plan to visit the Women's Hall of Fame on the Judson Campus. Then off to visit Magnolia Grove, Lt. Richmond Pearson Hobson's boyhood home in Greensboro. Hobson became a noted hero in the Spanish American War.
Have lunch at one of several local, family owned restaurants in Demopolis. Spend your afternoon touring Bluff Hall, built in 1832 as a father's gift to his daughter, and Gaineswood, both antebellum homes in Demopolis. Complete this day's circle by heading back to Selma. You can find a restaurant to please any palate, located around Selma for dinner.
Day 3
Visit Alabama's first capitol at Cahawba. You can visit the welcome center and the nature trails and see the ghost town that once was a thriving river town until floods and politics forced the move to higher grounds.
Camden is your next stop for today's outing. Enjoy lunch and visit the downtown area which is on the National Historic Register. Drive by many antebellum homes in nearby residential neighborhoods. If time permits, the golf and outdoor enthusiasts may choose to visit Roland Cooper State Park, along the shore of the 22,000 acre Dannelly Reservoir, for a nine hole golf course or fishing and picnic opportunities.
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