Screw the view the airlines tell you about when you're landing at Leh airport. When you land, tall mountains and heights will be last on your list. The only aircraft to Himachal landing in Bhuntar is a charter from Jagson Airlines.
DO NOT use Jagson airlines. Walk, it's not only safer, but faster. The
best way is to take tourist buses (Volvo's and others less comfortable) into Manali and
then rent a bike (about Rs.350/day). The most popular "ride" leaving for
Delhi/Chandigarh is the 4:30 am from Manali bus stand. Book tickets in
advance.
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Please ask the mechanic you rent the bike from to show you the basics
of changing cables, spark plugs and tires. Tell your mechanic exactly where
all you plan to go. It is not fun discovering there's something you can't
fix at Lachlang La pass with dusk approaching. Temperatures drop well below
-10 degrees C WITHOUT wind chill in the valleys.
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Do not ride after 4:00 pm NO MATTER how close your next destination is. If you have a breakdown, there will be nobody who will see you till the next day. Now imagine a broken shin with a bent fork at 9:00 pm. Sweet dreams.
Carry ALL essential spares like cables, plugs, bulbs, cold patch puncture
kits etc. for your bike. The guy you rent it from will provide these, if
he doesn't, ask him. When making any repairs, work slowly, DO NOT build
up a sweat. The lack of Oxygen at this altitude will have you dazed from
even walking a few meters so don't fancy pushing the bike anywhere but
to the immediate side of the road. Don't forget the air pump, air is hard
to blow into bike tires with your mouth at any altitude.
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The stones you can't see below the water are rounded and behave like ball bearings which roll, pitch and yaw. Get down or have your pillion check the water for depth, with a stick, and to mark out the best path for you to take through it.
If it seems like you will have to put your foot down while passing over the water, take your shoes and socks off. If you wet your shoes, they won't dry for days besides the added trouble of having to cut your toes off due to frostbite. Some very experienced riders from Poona wear rubber floaters/sandals like Nike ACG's when riding in these parts but I prefer my feet warmer than that.
DO NOT rush through it even if it seems easy and shallow. If you do get stuck and the current is very strong, leave the bike, it may get swept to the valley below, but it's cheaper than prosthetics for the rest of your life.
Many inexperienced riders have gone Rambo on these streams because they
look easy and have had sorry tales to tell after. You have been warned.
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None of this means you don't carry extra fuel. You ALWAYS carry at least 10 liters of extra petrol in a can that is mounted on your bike. Don't forget a liter of engine oil and any other lubricants you many need.
Your bike will always be climbing up and down very steep roads and your consumption of fuel and oil is always high.
Now for the good news. There are a few Army units along the way that might have petrol to give you. Most of the army vehicles there run on diesel except old Jonga's. Feel free to ask. The army guys around the mountains are very helpful in all aspects.
In case your hand/foot operated air pump fails, don't despair. All trucks have a pump that provides pressurized air. Most truckers and ALL the army trucks will have the pipe and nozzle to fill air.
If you're insane/desperate like we were and are attempting this trip on 100 - 200cc bikes, open your carburetor and put a 15 Amp rated copper wire through your main jet before you leave Manali. This will choke the fuel intake into the combustion chamber to allow it to burn efficiently at that altitude. The lack of oxygen and the flow of fuel through your regular jet will choke the chamber with unburned fuel causing huge loss in power.
If you have a Fuel Injected (MPFI) vehicle, you will have no problem, as the onboard computer will automatically regulate the fuel-air mixture to achieve optimum combustion. Enfield's do not seem to be affected by this, seemingly because of their large engines. Whatever bike you take, DO NOT under any circumstances use a larger main jet in your carburetor than the engine manufacturer specifies. You will face loss of power and believe me, you need all the power you can get.
The locals, out of sheer terror at your madness doing it
on a bike or out of respect for having the balls, and the willingness
to lose them will help you in any way possible. Also works the same for
any single chicks you meet in Leh.
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Your body will slowly acclimatize to the change in altitude and the symptoms will go away. Rest, take fluids and frown till you feel better. Our recommendation is to not ride more than 150 Kms a day and rest as soon as the ride is over when approaching higher altitudes. I also swear by Spirulina's and 2 capsules a day had us tearing through the landscape without any fatigue.
The kind of company you have on the ride is a big factor to your
general sense of well being. If you have a cranky chick or a wimpy guy and they
start to bitch about the wind or cold while you're fixing a fuel filter at 17'000
feet, there's a huge desire to throw them off the mountain. Keep such malefic
issues in
check or avoid the situation completely by proper screening of pillions.
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ALWAYS carry extra fuel and food. You WILL need it. There isn't much
to burn for a fire after Rohtang. It's a high-altitude desert.
The last place to buy loaves of bread and a mechanic to bail you out
after Manali, is Keylong.
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