11:45 - Bunel and Seanne arrive at the church after 2km walk. Seanne readjusts her headscarf again because it keeps slipping.
11:46 - Seanne panics when she realizes that the men stand (STAND!! NO CHAIRS HERE) on the right side and the women stand on the left. More of a panic about not being next to bunel than standing. Opinion is later revised.
11:55 - Seanne makes friends with nice girl names Maria (aged 21) who promises to keep Seanne in the loop. Seanne starts sweating - the church is small and packed. Wearing a turtleneck, sweater and coat seemed like a good idea a 1/2 hour ago.
12:00 - Seanne's legs have started to get stiff. There's not a lot of room as at least 200 women are crammed in the women's 'side' (which is bleeding into the men's side) and 100 men. Seanne begins reading her King James Red Letter version bible - and telling people every 10 minutes or so that its a bible and not a romance novel.
12:30 - Popa (priest) lights a torch thing - and the crowd surges forward. More people have arrived. At least 500 people are now in the church. AND WE ALL NEED TO LIGHT OUR CANDLES DIRECTLY FROM THE PRIEST'S CANDLE! Previously mentioned, Moldovans aren't always the most patient or organized people. Lines are just suggestions. Body checking is common - even from little old ladies. This was chaos. 500 people thrusting thin (thinner then pencils), long, yellow candles towards the priest's torch. Then trying to get out.
12:32 - Seanne gets candle lit and squeezes her way outside of the church.
12:50 - Everybody else finally gets their candles lit and squeezed out of the church.
12:52 - EVERYBODY walks, candles lit, 3 times around the church as the bells sound.
1:20 - After changing from black robes to white ones, the priest begins to chant/give the sermon/etc. Seanne, again not understanding, returns to reading Hebrews. New friend Maria mentions that there are 700 people in the church now. Seanne agrees based on the unscientific study of the volume of sweat she is producing.
2:10 - Seanne's 1st candle burns all the way down and Bunel gives her another one. Wax has dripped on the bible and Seanne puts the bible away. More head-scarf adjusting.
2:30 - With another surge, the crowd has pressed close to the priest. Everyone is still holding lit candles just centimeters away from each other. This time, we are lining up to kiss a framed picture of Jesus Christ. All of us. Kissing the same picture. And this time the priest wants a little more order - i.e. approach from the left, kiss the icon, move to your right. Not all the babas get it. When its Seanne's turn, the baba infront of her broke back left - and instead of the blessing "Hristos a inviat" from the Priest, he grunted irritation at the baba -- leaving Seanne to kiss the skeezy glass of the icon without even a blessing.
3:00 - Seanne notices cute Moldovan in choir.
3:10 - Seanne decides that sleep deprivation helps to relax standards on Moldovan beauty. Lots of women and girls are crouched down now - legs hurting. Seanne keeps trying to pop her hips and stretch her back - but the pain is definately reaching Advil-worthy status. Still sweating. Headscarf still slipping.
3:30 - Possibly the most thirsty she has ever been, Seanne whispers this to Maria. Maria is thirsty but tired. Seanne agrees and adds hot. The Maria says, "It will be over soon". Almost immediately the rustle of plastic bags is deafening.
3:35 - No longer able to hear the Popa (although she is 5 feet from him) Seanne begins examining the room. Two parallel lines of food have been placed on the floor. Every family has put down at least the following: Easter bread (pasca), red eggs, a candle in the pasca, salt, and a meat product. Other families have opened beers and wine to put next to the food. As Seanne is female, she OBVIOUSLY will be the one laying out the food brought. Bunel shrugs his shoulders like, "you have ovaries, get to it". And she does. Beautifully. And she takes a picture to prove it. Headscarf then falls off and a very serious man puts it back on her head forcefully.
4:00 - A happy looking Popa comes out with two bunches of dried broccoli (actually sweet basil - but huge) and a bucket of blessed water. He dips the basil in the water and FLINGS it at the crowd. Then the food. Then the crowd. Feels good.
4:05 - Seanne packs up the food and exits with Bunel in tow. There are an additional 2000 people surrounding the basillica.
4:20 - Seanne & Bunel arrive home. On their walk they passed tons of people JUST NOW heading for the basillica. Seanne drinks 2liters of mineral water on the walk back.
4:30 - Seanne, very very stinky, climbs into bed.
Hristos a inviat!
Adeverat a inviat!