Friends, Romantics, Countrymen,
  I am very pleased to report that I have finished
three courses and moved into my own apartment.  You
may remember my discussion in the last report about
the “too good to be true” apartment.  After several
weeks of complex negotiations and myriad fees, I
signed my first ever apartment lease during the last
week of July, and moved in on August 5th.  My lease is
for 18 months, so I expect to remain in this spot for
the duration of my time in Buenos Aires.  I have now
been here for a week and am very pleased with the
setup.
  I have posted some pictures of the apartment on my
website, www.seanegan.org, along with some snapshots
from the housewarming I hosted last Saturday.  The
apartment is on the seventh floor of a large apartment
building on Avenida Córdoba, a main Buenos Aires
thoroughfare.  I am still technically in the Barrio
Norte neighborhood, though right on the border, as the
buildings across the street from me belong to
Balvanera.  Only a few blocks away is the Once train
station, which lies at the heart of Buenos Aires’
largest Jewish neighborhood, home to what I have heard
called (though I have my doubts) the world’s only
Kosher McDonald’s (no cheeseburgers).  The apartment
is about nine blocks from Av. Puerredón y Rodríguez
Peña, the center of gravity for the American students
in the program.  School is either a 15-minute bus ride
or a 20-block walk away.  
  As the photos indicate, the apartment opens into a
large space, divided into a living room and a dining
room.  The far end of the room opens to a small
balcony, on which my landlady left a little garden of
potted plants whose care I have agreed to provide.  A
fully-equipped kitchen is located off the main room,
though I confess that due to the wide availability of
tasty and thrift-priced take-out, I have not yet put
the kitchen through its paces.  A hallway off of the
main room leads to the study, where I now sit typing
this, as well as the main and guest bedrooms and the
full and half baths.  Both the study and main bedroom
offer small “French” balconies.   The apartment came
fully-furnished, with such treats as a television set
and a small stereo system.  I can hardly complain.
  Since moving in, I have made a few of my own
adjustments.  I have posted two “Pelican Publishing”
prints, as well as an Abbey Road street sign. 
Yesterday morning, “La Nación” newspaper began
arriving at my door, and I had my DSL installed
yesterday as well.  This morning the housekeeper
arrived for the first time and spent four hours
getting the place back in ship shape. Those of you
familiar with my penchant for tidiness may find it
hard to imagine there was any cleaning to be done, but
she managed to find a few dusty nooks and crannies. 
She’s been coming weekly for the last several years,
and knows the place inside and out, so who am I to put
her out of work?  I also now have a real phone
(54-114-962-4398) and anyone looking to address
postcards or care packages (preferably containing
goodies such as salad dressing, salsa, and other items
unavailable in stores here) may address them to Av.
Córdoba 2645, 7° Piso, No. 22, Buenos Aires,
Argentina.  
        Despite the many complications entailed in acquiring
and moving into the new pad, I have managed to
complete three courses in the “winter” session at
UNSAM.  My first course, Ideas and Political Culture
in Latin America, was tough to follow, as all of the
readings and lectures were in Spanish and I was still
getting the rust off after my two-year hiatus from
Latin American life.  The next two courses, Case Study
Methods and Theories of Democracy and Autocracy have
been, much to my delight, in English.  The methods
class was very technical, and difficult to follow at
times, despite the best efforts of an able and very
much engaged visiting professor from Georgetown. 
Prior to enrolling here, I had never taken a political
science course before, so I was behind the curve from
the start, but I managed to understand the materials
well enough to design a research project.  Since
you’re dying to know, the project would investigate
why states (or trading blocks) engage in international
trade conflicts, such as the Banana War and the
European beef over hormone-treated livestock, while on
other issues such as intellectual property and
agricultural subsidies, the cannons of trade war
remain largely silent.  Is a puzzlement.
  The most recent class, also taught by a visiting
Georgetown prof., was much more interesting.  We read
political development literature from the second half
of the 20th century, and learned that Latin American
dictators and military juntas cited the work of
authors like Harvard’s Samuel Huntington to justify
their efforts to “stabilize” their economies in order
to allow for both economic and political development. 
They often found receptive audiences in such folks as
Henry Kissinger.  The professor, a Middle East expert,
also used the materials to analyze the prospects for
democracy in such places as, well, Iraq.  At the risk
of being called a racist by the Neocons in Washington,
(that’s what they do when critics suggest that Iraq
doesn’t lend itself very well to democracy) the
professor predicted a gradual withdrawal of U.S.
troops over the next few years, and either a Shiite
autocracy or civil war to follow.   After discussing
our final readings about the grim prospects for
democracy and development in the Middle East, the
whole class collectively sighed in despair.  The
professor’s final remark was inspiring, “When you look
at what’s happening over there, it makes the mess in
Argentina look great!”  
  My next two courses will cover health policies in
South America’s Southern Cone and the history of the
European Union.  Stay tuned for details.  In other
news, I will be hosting my first visitors in one week.
 Longmeadow Lancer (’97) Izzy Gordan will arrive on
the 22nd of August, accompanied by special lady friend
Abby for a one-week visit.  The red-carpet is being
prepared as I type.  Also Noteworthy are the
developments in the lives and careers of two of my
recommenders for this program, Holy Cross Profs.
Bertram Ashe and Nicolas Sanchez.  This reporter has
learned that Prof. Ashe has accepted a position at the
University of Richmond (go spiders!), while Prof.
Sanchez is following up his successful bid for the
Framingham School Board with another run for public
office (further detail unavailable at press time).  
  Well, that about covers it.  Do check out the web
site and accept my apologies for allowing a month to
go by since my last writing.  Also, apologies to those
of you who received an embargoed early draft of this
letter, as much of this may look familiar.  We’re
investigating who’s responsible for this leak and are
hoping that Robert Novak, among others, will be more
cooperative than he’s been in recent investigations. 
Also, in case you were wondering, I did get to watch
the next President of the United States give his
convention speech last month.  Help is on the way!
 
   Ciao,
       Sean

 

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