As I mentioned in my last missive, I went to Djibouti, Africa for five days to work with our coalition members on Operation Sentinel, a program where ships in one of our divisions take on sailors from the HOA (Horn of Africa) countries. The meeting was run by Marines, but in attendance were high-level representatives from Ethiopia, Tanzania, Djibouti, Sudan, Eritrea, Kenya, and the Comoros Islands. It was very informative, and I got to play a pretty large role in facilitating communication paths for coalition information routed through the embassies of those countries. I also made a visit to an Italian ship, the Zeffero, to train their communication officers on the use of their new coalition network on board their ship.
Djibouti is pretty bleak. Most of the pictures we have seen in the U.S. of third world countries actually depict a pretty accurate scene. People there live in abject poverty, and about 90% are addicted to Qat. Qat (pronounced "cot") is a natural stimulant from the Catha Edulis plant, found in the flowering evergreen tree or large shrub which grows in East Africa. It reaches heights from 10 feet to 20 feet and its scrawny leaves resemble withered basil.
Fresh Qat leaves are crimson-brown and glossy but become yellow-green and leathery as they age. They also emit a strong smell. The most favored part of the leaves are the young shoots near the top of the plant. However, leaves and stems at the middle and lower sections are also used.
Qat leaves contain psychoactive ingredients known as cathinone, which is structurally and chemically similar to d-amphetamine, and cathine, a milder form of cathinone. Fresh leaves contain both ingredients; those left unrefrigerated beyond 48 hours would contain only cathine, which explains users' preference for fresh leaves. Every day at noon, a shipment of fresh Qat arrives in port from Ethiopia. On average, Djiboutians spend about 85% of their income on Qat. It is an epidemic. I have enclosed a picture of a Qat market. Not pretty.
Another thing that isn't pretty is trying to get out of Djibouti. After finding out the flight on the C-130, provided ever so graciously by the U.S. Air Force, was canceled, I left the air compound and went to phone my boss back in Bahrain to let her know I would be late returning. I was summoned to the terminal again, as they fixed the plane and were ready to go. 5 1/2 hours later, we were over Bahrain when the crew realized they didn't have enough time in their flight day to land, drop us off, and get back to their home base by the 12 hour mark. So, we turned around (I would have gladly taken a parachute and gotten out at that point) and flew to Qatar, about an hour south-east of Bahrain. There, we spent the night in temporary trailers, and were supposed to fly out the next morning. When that flight was also canceled, I lit out for the city of Doha, using a ride from a friend of one of the Qatar Air Force gate guards. Once in Doha, I went to the airport and bought a ticket back to Bahrain. Quite an experience that was, I can tell you.
After a week of work, I was off again, flying to Muscat, Oman, for another five day trip. This time, though, it was commercial air and a hotel. Much better trip. Oman is actually a beautiful country, and the people were very friendly. I went again to the Zeffero, which had left Djibouti and traveled to Oman. I also worked on some communication issues with the British Air Force in the town of Seeb. I had no real hitches on the trip, and the Italians took us out on the town our last night there. As usual, we spent most of the time teaching each other dirty words in our native languages. Pretty fun stuff.
Ramadan started a few days ago. Ramadan is the ninth month of the Muslim calendar. It is during this month that Muslims observe the Fast of Ramadan. Lasting for the entire month, Muslims fast during the daylight hours and in the evening eat small meals and visit with friends and family. It is a time of worship and contemplation, a time to strengthen family and community ties. As a non-Muslim, out of respect for their culture, we don't eat, drink, or chew gum during sunlight hours, except while on the military base. There is no consumption of alcohol outside of our homes allowed, and everyone pretty much stays home during this time. Everything shuts down tighter than Green Bay on football Sunday. Ramadan is not, however, a violent time, contrary to what it may be
portrayed like in the news. During Ramadan, it is common for Muslims to go to the Masjid (Mosque) and spend several hours praying and studying the Quran. In addition to the five daily prayers, during Ramadan Muslims recite a special prayer called the Taraweeh prayer (Night Prayer). The length of this prayer is usually 2-3 times as long as the daily prayers. Some Muslims spend the entire night in prayer.
On the evening of the 27th day of the month, Muslims celebrate the Laylat-al-Qadr (the Night of Power). It is believed that on this night Muhammad first received the revelation of the Holy Quran. And according to the Quran, this is when God determines the course of the world for the following year. When the fast ends (the first day of the month of Shawwal) it is celebrated for three days in a holiday called Id-al-Fitr (the Feast of Fast Breaking). Gifts are exchanged. Friends and family gather to pray in congregation and for large meals. In some cities fairs are held to celebrate the end of the Fast of Ramadan.
So there you have it, Djibouti, Oman, and Ramadan. Sorry this one was so long winded, hopefully you skipped over the boring parts.
Take care, and as always, drop me a line and let me know how you are doing. My best to you all!
Sean