1. Sometimes, cutting out a
title from my favorite font isn't feasible because it's too thin or
complicated. To get around this, I print out the desired size of title or
journaling on a regular piece of paper. I place this paper over the exact spot
I want the font to appear on my page.
With an embossing stylus, I trace the lines of
the letters, then trace over the embossed letters with pens. Voilà! The font I couldn't cut appears in the exact color I
want, and it looks like I did the lettering myself.
Amanda
Cardston
I really love computer
fonts but sometimes had a problem when I wanted my titles or journaling to
stand out on darker cardstock. I found that the solution to my problem was
embossing powder. You can use embossing powder with your regular cardstock (not
just vellum!) Here's how:
1) I find that the way I do this most often is
to print out my lettering on the cardstock of my choice and then use an
embossing marker (I like the ones made by Zig or Tsukineko) to trace and "color" in my lettering.
The embossing ink is usually clear or light blue but it is really easy to tell
where you have filled in. When working with larger letters (like the
"M" in MGM), I like to color in one letter at a time, pour the embossing
powder on it, shake off all the excess, and then move onto the next letter. In
the case of smaller letters like the "grand" in the same title, I
trace the entire word then pour the embossing powder on it. I save the heat gun
until I have powder on everything I want to emboss. The journaling on the same
title block was also embossed. I just printed the journaling out on metallic
(glossy) paper then used clear embossing powder on it. It really makes it stand
out.
2) As you can see on title block for my
"Who's Afraid of The Pumpkin Patch" layout, I embossed the white
lettering. On this particular cardstock I did not need to trace my lettering
with an embossing marker. I simply applied the powder directly to the paper as
soon as it came out of the printer. The result looks grainy but that was the
effect I wanted. This way works with certain cardstock, you will just have to
test on a scrap piece of paper and see how fast the printer ink dries on it.
I really like the results I get with this
technique and hope that you do too!
Benton Harbor
I keep a large 8.5 x 11
notebook for collecting ideas for layouts, enhancements, borders, mats,
lettering, etc. Each section is separated by a tab divider put on a page
protector (from an office supply store.) I put pages inside the sheet if they
are too narrow to be punched. Behind the protector, I put heavy white typing
paper. On this, I glue photos I've cut from magazines, or draw sketches of
ideas I've seen that appeal to me.
Whenever I need a new matting idea or
something unusual on lettering, I just turn to that section and am re-energized
with possibilities. It's easy to set up and to maintain, too. If my
"style" changes, I can always pull out a page or replace a sample.
Getting eyelets
"centered" and in the perfect spot you want them is always a trick.
They always seem to be off by a hair or two. I've come up with a solution.
I mark on the back part of the eyelet with a
dark colored marker and then quickly place it down on my paper in the spot I
want it so that it leaves a mark on the exact place where I want it to be. Then
when I go back with the eyelet hole punch I can place the hole punch in the
"marked spot."
Now my eyelets are always right where I want
them to be. No more spending hours on a layout and then wishing my eyelets
would be one centimeter to the left!
With tons of memories
from a family vacation to
Here's how to create a pull-out for a 12"
x 12" page:
1. Trim 1/4" off the short end of a sealed, legal-sized envelope to make
the top of the pull-out holder. Cut a 1/2" circle out of the trimmed top.
2. Trim a piece of cardstock to 4 1/4" x 9 1/4" (make sure to leave a
1/2" border on the bottom to hold the pull-out in the pocket). Then add
the journaling and any embellishments.
3. Place the journaling card in the envelope and tape the sides of the envelope
1/4" in so the journaling tabs catch when pulled (be sure to use
photo-safe tape).
4. Adhere a die cut or
punched shape to the top of the pull-out for a handle.
This fun technique saved space on my layout
and provides interest for the viewer—there's nothing like a hidden pocket to
increase curiosity.
From Creating Keepsakes, June 2000, p.
29.
North Hills
Before I use my X-acto (or swivel) knife to cut out objects (title letters,
for example), I first trace the outside edges of each shape with an embossing
stylus. The stylus creates a little groove for the knife to follow—this makes
it easier to trim around tight curves, resulting in cuts that are perfectly
clean and smooth!
Denise Pauley
La
Before my now-husband
and I were dating, he had given me a beautiful photo album, just as a surprise
little gift for me. When we got married three years later, I decided to turn
the album into a record of our marriage, one anniversary at a time.
On the front page, I put a picture of us on
our wedding day. I included just a few basic journaling elements - favorite
memories, etc. Then on our one-year anniversary, we took another picture and
put it on the second page. This year will be our second anniversary, so we'll
fill in the third page, and so on... By the time the album's 40 pages are
filled up, we'll have a wonderful progressive journal of our marriage!
Shannon Adams
Waxahachie, TX
My best friend, Pam,
was turning 40 this year, and I couldn't figure out what to give her for her
birthday. We've been best friends for over 20 years, but we don't have many
pictures of us together. I decided to create a small theme album called
"Forty Reasons Pam is My Best Friend." I enjoyed thinking of the
reasons I appreciate her--both serious and lighthearted.
After reading the entire album (through a few
tears), Pam commented that it truly captured our years of friendship. She also said
it was one of the best gifts she'd ever received.
Gig Harbor
When going on a long
trip, such as a recent African safari, I pack enough ziplock
2.5 gallon size bags for each day. (Smaller ziplock
bags will not hold 12x12 paper, but this size will.) I put a piece of scrap
paper with the date in each one before laying it flat in the suitcase.
At the end of each day, I drop in any maps,
postcards, brochures, and ticket stubs from that day that might embellish my
pages. I also tear out the dated journal page from the cheap little spiral
notebook I carry. When I return home, these still stack flat in the suitcase.
When the pictures come back, I put those from the dates in the bag with
background papers, die cuts, stickers, or whatever I might use. Don't store
pictures this way for long, but this helps you put pages together fast.
Monica
Rochester
I have always been
drawn to the paint chip cards at any store I go in. Little did I know I would
soon be using these for scrapbooking. When I find
cards with coordinating colors that I really like I take a card home and punch
a hole in it and put it on a ring that I bought at an office supply store. Then
when I am challenged to find colors to go with a layout I just look at the cards!
This also gives me a "hard copy" of a sample to take to the scrapbook
store to select my papers.
Willow Springs
I could never figure
out how to make my "water" page embellishments look wet, until now!
While trying for a REAL look to a mountain waterfall, I couldn't find anything
shiny that was acid-free until I was throwing away some old shiny page
protectors. I cut the page protector in half lengthwise and put it through my Xyron 500. I then decided what colors I wanted to make the
rocks and boulders from and placed the "Xyroned"
piece on top of the cardstock, sticky side down, of course. I took it to the
scrapbook store and used my concoction to make die cuts of stones. It made the
stones look like they were wet! Whenever anyone looks at the pages I use this
technique on, this the first thing they comment on, right off the bat. Give it
a try!
Teresa Lewis
Sandy, UT
I'm a big eyelet
collector—I buy every color I can find! I remember getting to the point where I
either duplicated colors or forgot which colors I really needed.
To help, I decided to make a string of eyelets
to carry in my purse. That way, when I got to a scrapbook store, I'd know what
colors I already had. To create the string, I took a few inches of craft wire
and curled one end with my needle-nose pliers. I then strung on one eyelet in
each of the colors I had. I made two separate strands, one for each eyelet
size. If I only had a few eyelets in a particular color, I didn't add it to the
strand so I could be sure to buy more.
After threading all the eyelets on, I curled
the other end of the wire so they wouldn't fall off. If I need to add or remove
eyelets, I can easily uncurl the wire and curl it back again. I can also curl
the wire around my keychain.
This idea was especially handy when I went to
my local expo. I found several booths that sold eyelets, and I wanted to stock
up. I attached the end of the wire to the zipper pull on the bag I carried.
When I reached the booths, I just looked at my bag to see what colors I needed.
I didn't duplicate a single one!
Federal Way,
I take a lot of
pictures. The photo holders from the camera store were overwhelming.
I discovered a way to get a handle on the
volume and feel like I was getting started on my layouts. I go through each set
of pictures when I get them back, choosing 6-10 of the best shots. I file the
selected photos along with a 4 x 6 index card (one for each set of pictures) in
a small photo box. The rest go in a larger box in chronological order.
On the index card I jot down the date of the
pictures, any journaling notes or reminders, embellishment or title ideas,
anything I might consider for the layout. If I think of something later or come
across a great idea in a magazine, I just add it to the back of the card.
Once I get ready to do my layout I put the
pictures, index card and any paper or embellishments I have chosen in a page
protector.
After the layout is complete I list on the
back of the card all the supplies I used for the layout along with the date it
was completed. I then have a list of the supplies used in case I need to
replace something or prepare my layout for submission to my favorite scrapbook
magazine--Creative Keepsakes.
It's a great way to gain a feeling of
accomplishment as soon as the pictures are developed and also helps keep
journaling information fresh in your mind in case it is awhile before the
actual layout is complete.
I love and often refer
to Becky Higgins' Scrapbooking Secrets. However, the
book is difficult to keep open when copying a page layout.
I took the book to Kinko's and had it coiled
bound. Now I can flip it back and keep it opened to the page I want! The cost
was $4.95 and well worth the price. It's less wear and tear on the book as
well!
Cecilia
Bothell
I have over 100
different scrapbook magazines. In order to keep track of the ideas, articles
& page layouts I really like, I've come up with a way to "file"
each idea according to subject. I bought myself a clipboard & lots of college
ruled paper. Each page has a title at the top; such as, BABY, CHRISTMAS, or
SPORTS. As I come across ideas in these catagories
that I really like I find that title page & write the name, month/year of
the magazine issue. On the same line I write a short description of the idea
along with the page number where it can be found. As one page fills up with
ideas, I can easily add another lined paper behind the first in order to keep
the catagory going. The page titles are in
alphabetical order and therefore easy to look up. When I need an idea for a
baby page - I just go to my page titled BABY and look through the idea
descriptions. If one sounds like something I might want to use - I get that
magazine & look up the actual page. This has saved me so much time. I don't
have to hunt through magazines wondering where I saw "that one great
layout". Nor do I have to cut up my precious scrapbook magazines!! They
are all shelved neatly on my bookcase, as a ready reference!
P.S. The great thing about my system is that I
DON'T have to be in front of my computer to do it. I can do it in bed or in the
car, on the couch or on an airplane etc.
NA
When searching for
unique clip art ideas or embellishments, a great place to find them is in old
magazines (ones showcasing art are the best). If you flip through, you'll find
lots of colourful and interesting pieces to snip out
and use later in a layout that needed an extra oompf!
Sharona Spangler
Tags are such the rage
now, but unfortunately premade tag colors are still
limited. Check out your local paint store. Paint chips are free, come in tons
of gorgeous colors and are also offered in many different sizes. Many paint
chips also come with a faux finish to them such as crackle and/or a weathered
look.
Worried they aren't acid free—either spray
them with Archival Mist or adhere to a piece of acid free cardstock.
|
DRY EMBOSSING ON VELLUM |
Dry embossing on vellum
is a beautiful way to create soft, muted embellishments for your pages. I was
first inspired to try it when I read Sharon Lewis's tip in the November 2000
issue, and I've enjoyed the look ever since.
While
I used templates to create the larger leaves
and the word "love" in the figure. Just remember to flip your
lettering template upside-down so your title will read properly when you turn
it over!
You can also find simple shapes to trace in
coloring books, picture books, catalogs and magazines. When you've found a
pattern you like, lay it on any surface with a little "give" (my
favorite is a mousepad), place your vellum over your
pattern and trace. The small leaves, grass and wheat in the figure were created
this way.
The next time you need a simple yet lovely
page embellishment, pull out vellum and a stylus and try this technique. The
look is sheer delight!
Kim Morgan
Pleasant Grove, UT
Recently I needed to
adhere some vellum and reached for my CM Photo Mounting Tape. I figured, heck,
give it a try. I first broke off about 1 inch of the CM photo Mounting Tape and
tried it on a scrap of vellum. I couldn't beleive my
eyes - you couldn't see the tape at all! I've tried this on blue, yellow, green
and white vellum - WOW, finally an adhesive that will work with vellum great
and it will stick permanently! Give it a try, you'll be as happy as me!
Betsy
Kilmarnock
I took extra die cuts
that were purchased, but never used, and put them into an album for my nephew.
One page showed an ark. The lettering was done with stencils (to save $). On
this particular page it said: "One red ark". I continued this up to
ten. Some pages were crowded but it worked nicely. On the unused pages of the
album I placed shapes of paper and continued naming the shapes. He enjoys books
so much, I knew he would love this one too.
Stephanie Green
Wentzville, MO
|
Color Blocking |
|
|
Color Blocking is a fast (and fun!) way to create an
eye-catching background for your scrapbook page or page accent. It generally
involves two or more colors, but can also be done with two or more patterns
in a monochromatic scheme or two or more random coordinating patterns. Simple
geometric shapes make it easy to create color blocked backgrounds from your
vast collection of scraps, so not only is color blocking attractive, but it's
economical too! A good
example of color blocking involves using several sizes of rectangles or
squares. It is also fun to throw a circle or other simple shape into the mix. |
|
Ribbons
Tie a yellow ribbon ‘round the ol’ oak tree (or
around your scrapbook page!) Ribbons come in all sorts of widths and colours and patterns and can add a fun or elegant or soft
feeling to your pages. In fact the use of ribbon in your scrapbooks is only
limited by your imagination. Organza, Silk, Cotton, Rayon & Satin Look for
silk and rayon threads generally used for ribbon embroidery. These fine ribbons
are wonderful for creating flowers or tying together elements on your page.
Imagine some gingham ribbon to add a finishing touch to a farm page. Use ribbon
that has a memory attached! For example a hair ribbon used from the first day
of school or a piece of ribbon from your daughters ballet concert costume. What
about a piece of ribbon from your bridal bouquet? Don’t forget to mention the
significance of the ribbon in your journaling. Here are a few basic ideas to
start you thinking. To attach a journaling block punch two holes at the top and
thread a ribbon through and finish with a bow. ‘Hang’ a picture. Wrap a whole
piece of ribbon around your background page. Cut small slits along a border or
around a photo mat and thread your ribbon through. Use a similar shade to your
background for a simple stylish look. Tie little bows and use as a border. Tie
100 Yellow Ribbons ‘round that ol’ scrapbook page!
Some shaped
eyelets tend to curl or look ‘puffy’ when they are set.
To avoid this look and make the eyelet look like its original shape, there are
a few extra steps:
1. Set the
shaped eyelet as you normally would.
2. Turn the page over so the eyelet is facing you.
3. Take your hammer and hit the front of the eyelet head on.
If you want,
take a scrap piece of paper and put it on top of the eyelet. Then with your
hammer, hit the front of the shape to flatten it out.
"I use block type fonts in titles on my pages quite a bit. I
am always being asked how I do this, so I thought I would share. You will be
surprised at how simple it is. This technique looks great when the title is
placed on a darker colour cardstock. In this example,
if I were to print a title directly onto the cardstock, it would be quite dark.
Instead, I have chosen a lighter coloured cardstock
and then print the letters out with spaces between each letter. I then cut out
the letters (this is where the space between is important) and attach them to
the page. I usually leave a border around the letter and this makes the title
seem to pop off of the page. There are a number of 2 Peas fonts that can be
used for this: Jana Banana, Beach Balls, Cindy, Flip Flops, Gift, Pancakes and
Thrift Store Chair to name a few. Don't forget to try changing the colour of the font to coordinates with your cardstock or
mixing up the fonts as I have done here!"
I am not a scrapbooker. My wife is. I like to mess around
with computers. My wife does not. She uses her computer as a tool
to keep up with several scrapbooking message boards,
and to scan and post layouts around the web. When she switched from
8.5x11" to 12x12" layouts and wanted to post them, we sat down for a
lengthy tutorial on how to scan and stitch her 12x12" layouts.
"Stitching"
is a common function of many popular graphics programs. It refers to the
process of taking two scanned pictures, the left and right halves of a
scrapbook page, say, and joining or "stitching" them together to get
one single picture of the entire page. Different graphics programs do
this in different ways, and your results may vary depending on your software
and skill level.
This article
describes the step by step process of stitching in several graphics software
packages. My wife tells me this is a recurring topic on the message
boards she frequents. I'll walk you through the process and show you what
results you can expect with each graphics package.
PREPARATION
Graphics
software comes from many different sources. I have gotten different
pieces of software with my printer, my scanner, and my video card. Others
I have downloaded from the web. As many as there are, there are even more
kinds of scanner drivers. The scanner driver is the scanner-specific
window that pops up when you are scanning a page. It lets you preview the
page, set the borders and set the resolution of the scan. There is no way
for me to tell you how to scan a picture using your particular scanner (I only
know how to use mine). I have to assume that you can scan the two halves
of your layout on your own.
That said, I
can offer some tips on scanning the halves.
1. Scan your halves at 100 dpi . There are all kinds of technical
reasons why you may want to scan at higher or lower resolutions. My wife
scans at 100 dpi for one simple reason: it makes the math easy. A
12x12" layout at 100 dpi will give you a 1200x1200 pixel image. If
you reduce the size by 50% the final image is 600x600 pixels.
2. If your printer driver lets you, turn off automatic color balancing
(or whatever your scanner driver calls it). If you have lighter-colored
photos or embellishments on one half of your layout than the other, auto color
balancing will adjust the color balance different for each half. When you
stitch them together, they will be mismatched.
3. Keep the halves in open windows, or save them as gif files. If
you have enough memory in your computer, leave the two halves in open windows
in the graphics software. If you do want to save the halves for later
stitching, don't save them as jpg files. Saving as a jpg will give a
smaller file than a gif, but you will lose some detail. Since you will
probably save the final stitched layout as a jpg (for transmitting over the
internet), saving the intermediate half pictures as gifs preserves the detail
until the end of the stitching process.
4. Scan the halves so you have about a 2" overlap between halves
. The stitching software works by matching common features in the
overlapping regions between the halves. If the overlap is too small,
there isn't enough to work with. If the overlap is too big, you will end
up with a "smeared" look down the center of your final layout.
The smear will be there in any case, but if it is small, it isn't as
noticeable. The quality of the "smearing" depends on how smart
the software is when it stitches.
Let's assume
you have started the graphics software of your choice and have used your
scanner to scan the two halves of your layout. These are both in open
windows in the software. Going with the 2" overlap guideline, each
half is 7x12".
Note:
For the purposes of this article, I scanned a layout and saved the two halves
as both gifs and jpgs (at quality 100). The
left half is A and the right half is B. This way I could use the same
halves and compare the resulting layout, C. I'll begin the step by step
instructions with both halves in session as if they had just been scanned.
ULEAD PHOTO
EXPRESS 1.1
I'm starting
with this software because I got copies bundled with both my scanner and a USB
video camera. A trial version of the latest version of the software (4.0)
is available at www.ulead.com. The latest version costs $50, or $30 to
upgrade from a previous version.
SUMMARY:
Open the halves, and select the stitch command. In the stitch dialog, you
must select a common point in the halves. The software matches the
points. You then crop and save the results.
Stitching
instructions here
...
Here is the
resulting 12x12" layout, sized down 75%. Click on the image to see
the actual resulting image.
Things to
note: Journaling text is well aligned. Double image in tree
branches at top of layout. Consistent, well-blended color tone of
background paper.
ADOBE PHOTO
DELUXE 2.0
Photo Deluxe
is another software package commonly bundled with hardware. My copy came
with my printer. Paid upgrades are available at www.adobe.com.
SUMMARY:
Photo Deluxe doesn't have a stitch command. To get a stitched layout you
must create a new, blank image and paste the two halves into it. You then
align the halves manually, crop, and save the result.
Stitching
instructions here
...
Again, a
thumbnail of the 12x12" layout. Click on the image to see the actual
resulting image.
Things to
note: The seam between the halves is near the left side of the journaling
box. Other than a slight shift in the edge of the background cardstock of
the journaling box, the stitch seam is practically invisible. Also notice
that the scale of the final result is slightly smaller than is correct.
The software does this on its own during the stitching process.
SMOKEY CITY
DESIGN, THE PANORAMA FACTORY 1.6
I chose to
include the first two software packages in this article for two reasons: 1)
They are widely available, and commonly used. 2) I already had copies of
both of them. Wanting to break out of my comfort zone, I did a quick web
search to see what the "experts" recommend. The Panorama
Factory has a good reputation, and version 1.6 is available for free from
www.panoramafactory.com. You absolutely can't beat the price. And,
to my delight, it is both easier to use and gives better results than either of
the two programs already described. The latest version, 2.3, costs $35.
SUMMARY:
Import the halves, set a couple of settings, and select the stitch
command. The software aligns the halves automatically. You then
crop and save the results.
Stitching
instructions here
...
Here is the
resulting 12x12" layout, sized down 75%. Click on the image to see
the actual resulting image.
Things to
note: Almost flawless results. With extreme magnification, you can
notice that the JPEG quality is a little less than the others, but this is the
only flaw I can find.
LAST WORDS
The three
software packages I've covered illustrate varying levels of ease of use.
They range from completely manual alignment, to matching common points, to
completely automatic stitching. Most other stitching software packages
will fall into these three categories.
For those of
you who haven't posted your 12x12" layouts because you couldn't figure out
your stitching software, I hope the step-by-step instructions I give will help
you on your way. If you are already stitching, but are unhappy with your
results, the tips in the Preparation section should make a visible improvement
in your final results. For those in search of an easy-to-use tool which
gives great results, use The Panorama Factory.
Lastly, for
further information about panoramic photography and stitching photos, check out
www.panoguide.com.
You've probably seen most of these but maybe not...
Versamark 1 pad and Different Techniques
1. A TRULY CLEAR EMBOSSING PAD: Just stamp and emboss with colored powder or
clear powder (for a see through shine).
2. A WATERMARK: This is great for backgrounds, it will deepen the
shade of colored paper wherever you stamp. Just think about this,
for every color of paper you own, you now have a complementary
color of ink!
3. POPPIN' PASTELS: There are a couple of ways to accomplish this
effect on light colored card stocks. 1.) Apply chalks to the area
to be stamped, stamp with VersaMark and allow to dry
or use heat
gun. Then rub gently with a clean cotton ball. You can get a
dramatic effect by adding more chalk to a cotton ball or dauber
after you stamped with the VersaMark. Or you can
emboss while
stamped image is still wet with clear embossing powder and the
image will jump out at you! 2.) Stamp first then chalk gently over
the stamped area and watch the image magically appear.
4. REVERSE PASTELS: This time you use brightly colored chalk to
cover dark colored card stock (Basic Black, Night of Navy, Close
to
The ink will pull out the color of the paper from beneath the chalk.
Be sure to clean the stamp before re-inking it as the chalk you
removed is now on your stamp and you will dirty your VersaMark
pad.
5. SHADOWING: This is a technique to use with Kaleidacolor
pads and
word stamps but you can use it for anything really. Just stamp
directly over your first image. Because you will seldom be exact
you will make a shadow that gives the initial image a 3-D effect.
You can even take it a step further and emboss with a transparent
powder like
6. BRAYER RESIST: This technique can be done with Gold Encore or
VersaMark. Stamp image(s) onto Glossy White card
stock using one of
the above inks. Gently wipe away the ink using a lotion-free tissue
and small circular motion. Ink up your brayer and roll it over the
paper. Wherever the VersaMark ink was stamped, the
paper will resist
the colored ink from your brayer. This works on matte card stock but
looks better on glossy.
7. VERSAMARK & 2-STEP STAMPIN: Stamp the same image first w/VersaMark & then with metallic (Encore). Just shift the
image a little bit when stamping the metallic ink. It gives it a shadowed look.
Looks great on baroque burgundy and forest foliage!
8.EMBOSSING ON GLASS: Using the embossing buddy first, then using the VersaMark to stamp the image on a glass container, then
emboss with detail gold or silver. Fill it with candy and tie a ribbon on it.
9. EMBOSSING WITH YOUR 48 STAMPIN! UP PADS: Ink your stamp with VersaMark, then stamp on one of our 48 color pads or you
can use a
dauber to apply the color ink if you are worried about the color pad.
Stamp and use clear embossing powder. Heat. Now you can emboss and be perfectly
coordinated with the SU! Markers, cardstock and ink pads. Be certain to clean
stamp before re-inking on VersaMark pad or you will
leave color on it.
10. DISCREET JOURNALING LINES: Although the VersaMark
ink is sticky when applied, it dries like regular ink and loses the stickiness.
It
is Acid-free and safe for scrapbook pages. It works perfectly on all
of our colored cardstock.
11. BATIK TECHNIQUE: Simply stamp your image using Versamark
on
ultrasmooth white or confetti or other light CS and
then emboss
with clear embossing powder. Let cool. Then gently wad paper into a ball
or you could fold it into a small square for a different look. Unfold it
and smooth it out. Place it on a towel and wet with water so the paper
is very damp. Next ink your brayer with a Kaleidacolor
pad and brayer
across the paper. The image will stay white while the ink will seep into
cracks and the rest of the paper will have a batik look. (Like back in
the 70's when you applied wax to a pattern on a shirt and then dipped it
in dye, cooled and chipped the wax away.)
From
Let's
all chime in with tips for new Peas!
http://www.twopeasinabucket.com/mb.asp?cmd=display&thread_id=214561
Looking for the perfect song or lyrics?
Try these web sites:
The CAC Shoshini Brush Font is the perfect cursive font for exacto work!!!(Free from most major font sites)
I used Word art sized font at 150 for my 8x8 album.
-175 to 200 for 8 1/2 x11 to 12x12.
(Set Page set up for Landscape)
-set it for bold. (I print them in outline, no fill, backwards and glue stick
them to backside of CS or PP)
I cut 3 titles last night out of Bazzill and it is
yummy!!!!!!! I could eat it.
And I am a font snob=)
Try it!=)
Happy Scrapper