1.  Sometimes, cutting out a title from my favorite font isn't feasible because it's too thin or complicated. To get around this, I print out the desired size of title or journaling on a regular piece of paper. I place this paper over the exact spot I want the font to appear on my page.

With an embossing stylus, I trace the lines of the letters, then trace over the embossed letters with pens. Voilà! The font I couldn't cut appears in the exact color I want, and it looks like I did the lettering myself.

Amanda Broadhead
Cardston
, AB, Canada

 

 

I really love computer fonts but sometimes had a problem when I wanted my titles or journaling to stand out on darker cardstock. I found that the solution to my problem was embossing powder. You can use embossing powder with your regular cardstock (not just vellum!) Here's how:

1) I find that the way I do this most often is to print out my lettering on the cardstock of my choice and then use an embossing marker (I like the ones made by Zig or Tsukineko) to trace and "color" in my lettering. The embossing ink is usually clear or light blue but it is really easy to tell where you have filled in. When working with larger letters (like the "M" in MGM), I like to color in one letter at a time, pour the embossing powder on it, shake off all the excess, and then move onto the next letter. In the case of smaller letters like the "grand" in the same title, I trace the entire word then pour the embossing powder on it. I save the heat gun until I have powder on everything I want to emboss. The journaling on the same title block was also embossed. I just printed the journaling out on metallic (glossy) paper then used clear embossing powder on it. It really makes it stand out.

2) As you can see on title block for my "Who's Afraid of The Pumpkin Patch" layout, I embossed the white lettering. On this particular cardstock I did not need to trace my lettering with an embossing marker. I simply applied the powder directly to the paper as soon as it came out of the printer. The result looks grainy but that was the effect I wanted. This way works with certain cardstock, you will just have to test on a scrap piece of paper and see how fast the printer ink dries on it.

I really like the results I get with this technique and hope that you do too!

Apryl Meader
Benton Harbor
, MI

 

 

 

 

 

 

I keep a large 8.5 x 11 notebook for collecting ideas for layouts, enhancements, borders, mats, lettering, etc. Each section is separated by a tab divider put on a page protector (from an office supply store.) I put pages inside the sheet if they are too narrow to be punched. Behind the protector, I put heavy white typing paper. On this, I glue photos I've cut from magazines, or draw sketches of ideas I've seen that appeal to me.

Whenever I need a new matting idea or something unusual on lettering, I just turn to that section and am re-energized with possibilities. It's easy to set up and to maintain, too. If my "style" changes, I can always pull out a page or replace a sample.

 

 

Getting eyelets "centered" and in the perfect spot you want them is always a trick. They always seem to be off by a hair or two. I've come up with a solution.

I mark on the back part of the eyelet with a dark colored marker and then quickly place it down on my paper in the spot I want it so that it leaves a mark on the exact place where I want it to be. Then when I go back with the eyelet hole punch I can place the hole punch in the "marked spot."

Now my eyelets are always right where I want them to be. No more spending hours on a layout and then wishing my eyelets would be one centimeter to the left!

 

With tons of memories from a family vacation to Northern California and little space to scrapbook them, I decided to create a journaling pull-out. I highlighted six of our favorite memories with photos and memorabilia, and placed a numbered star next to each one. The numbers correspond to the journaling information on the pull-out.

Here's how to create a pull-out for a 12" x 12" page:


1. Trim 1/4" off the short end of a sealed, legal-sized envelope to make the top of the pull-out holder. Cut a 1/2" circle out of the trimmed top.
2. Trim a piece of cardstock to 4 1/4" x 9 1/4" (make sure to leave a 1/2" border on the bottom to hold the pull-out in the pocket). Then add the journaling and any embellishments.
3. Place the journaling card in the envelope and tape the sides of the envelope 1/4" in so the journaling tabs catch when pulled (be sure to use photo-safe tape).
4. Adhere a die cut or punched shape to the top of the pull-out for a handle.

This fun technique saved space on my layout and provides interest for the viewer—there's nothing like a hidden pocket to increase curiosity.

From Creating Keepsakes, June 2000, p. 29.

Susan Badgett
North Hills
, CA

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Before I use my X-acto (or swivel) knife to cut out objects (title letters, for example), I first trace the outside edges of each shape with an embossing stylus. The stylus creates a little groove for the knife to follow—this makes it easier to trim around tight curves, resulting in cuts that are perfectly clean and smooth!

Denise Pauley
La
Palma, CA

 

Before my now-husband and I were dating, he had given me a beautiful photo album, just as a surprise little gift for me. When we got married three years later, I decided to turn the album into a record of our marriage, one anniversary at a time.

On the front page, I put a picture of us on our wedding day. I included just a few basic journaling elements - favorite memories, etc. Then on our one-year anniversary, we took another picture and put it on the second page. This year will be our second anniversary, so we'll fill in the third page, and so on... By the time the album's 40 pages are filled up, we'll have a wonderful progressive journal of our marriage!

Shannon Adams
Waxahachie, TX

 

My best friend, Pam, was turning 40 this year, and I couldn't figure out what to give her for her birthday. We've been best friends for over 20 years, but we don't have many pictures of us together. I decided to create a small theme album called "Forty Reasons Pam is My Best Friend." I enjoyed thinking of the reasons I appreciate her--both serious and lighthearted.

After reading the entire album (through a few tears), Pam commented that it truly captured our years of friendship. She also said it was one of the best gifts she'd ever received.

Valerie White
Gig Harbor
, WA

 

 

When going on a long trip, such as a recent African safari, I pack enough ziplock 2.5 gallon size bags for each day. (Smaller ziplock bags will not hold 12x12 paper, but this size will.) I put a piece of scrap paper with the date in each one before laying it flat in the suitcase.

At the end of each day, I drop in any maps, postcards, brochures, and ticket stubs from that day that might embellish my pages. I also tear out the dated journal page from the cheap little spiral notebook I carry. When I return home, these still stack flat in the suitcase. When the pictures come back, I put those from the dates in the bag with background papers, die cuts, stickers, or whatever I might use. Don't store pictures this way for long, but this helps you put pages together fast.

Monica Gilligan
Rochester
, NY

 

 

I have always been drawn to the paint chip cards at any store I go in. Little did I know I would soon be using these for scrapbooking. When I find cards with coordinating colors that I really like I take a card home and punch a hole in it and put it on a ring that I bought at an office supply store. Then when I am challenged to find colors to go with a layout I just look at the cards! This also gives me a "hard copy" of a sample to take to the scrapbook store to select my papers.

Cindy Tooley
Willow Springs
, MO

 

I could never figure out how to make my "water" page embellishments look wet, until now! While trying for a REAL look to a mountain waterfall, I couldn't find anything shiny that was acid-free until I was throwing away some old shiny page protectors. I cut the page protector in half lengthwise and put it through my Xyron 500. I then decided what colors I wanted to make the rocks and boulders from and placed the "Xyroned" piece on top of the cardstock, sticky side down, of course. I took it to the scrapbook store and used my concoction to make die cuts of stones. It made the stones look like they were wet! Whenever anyone looks at the pages I use this technique on, this the first thing they comment on, right off the bat. Give it a try!

Teresa Lewis
Sandy, UT

 

 

I'm a big eyelet collector—I buy every color I can find! I remember getting to the point where I either duplicated colors or forgot which colors I really needed.

To help, I decided to make a string of eyelets to carry in my purse. That way, when I got to a scrapbook store, I'd know what colors I already had. To create the string, I took a few inches of craft wire and curled one end with my needle-nose pliers. I then strung on one eyelet in each of the colors I had. I made two separate strands, one for each eyelet size. If I only had a few eyelets in a particular color, I didn't add it to the strand so I could be sure to buy more.

After threading all the eyelets on, I curled the other end of the wire so they wouldn't fall off. If I need to add or remove eyelets, I can easily uncurl the wire and curl it back again. I can also curl the wire around my keychain.

This idea was especially handy when I went to my local expo. I found several booths that sold eyelets, and I wanted to stock up. I attached the end of the wire to the zipper pull on the bag I carried. When I reached the booths, I just looked at my bag to see what colors I needed. I didn't duplicate a single one!

Nikki Pitcher
Federal Way,
WA

 

 

I take a lot of pictures. The photo holders from the camera store were overwhelming.

I discovered a way to get a handle on the volume and feel like I was getting started on my layouts. I go through each set of pictures when I get them back, choosing 6-10 of the best shots. I file the selected photos along with a 4 x 6 index card (one for each set of pictures) in a small photo box. The rest go in a larger box in chronological order.

On the index card I jot down the date of the pictures, any journaling notes or reminders, embellishment or title ideas, anything I might consider for the layout. If I think of something later or come across a great idea in a magazine, I just add it to the back of the card.

Once I get ready to do my layout I put the pictures, index card and any paper or embellishments I have chosen in a page protector.

After the layout is complete I list on the back of the card all the supplies I used for the layout along with the date it was completed. I then have a list of the supplies used in case I need to replace something or prepare my layout for submission to my favorite scrapbook magazine--Creative Keepsakes.

It's a great way to gain a feeling of accomplishment as soon as the pictures are developed and also helps keep journaling information fresh in your mind in case it is awhile before the actual layout is complete.

 

I love and often refer to Becky Higgins' Scrapbooking Secrets. However, the book is difficult to keep open when copying a page layout.

I took the book to Kinko's and had it coiled bound. Now I can flip it back and keep it opened to the page I want! The cost was $4.95 and well worth the price. It's less wear and tear on the book as well!

Cecilia Shigaya
Bothell
, WA

 

 

I have over 100 different scrapbook magazines. In order to keep track of the ideas, articles & page layouts I really like, I've come up with a way to "file" each idea according to subject. I bought myself a clipboard & lots of college ruled paper. Each page has a title at the top; such as, BABY, CHRISTMAS, or SPORTS. As I come across ideas in these catagories that I really like I find that title page & write the name, month/year of the magazine issue. On the same line I write a short description of the idea along with the page number where it can be found. As one page fills up with ideas, I can easily add another lined paper behind the first in order to keep the catagory going. The page titles are in alphabetical order and therefore easy to look up. When I need an idea for a baby page - I just go to my page titled BABY and look through the idea descriptions. If one sounds like something I might want to use - I get that magazine & look up the actual page. This has saved me so much time. I don't have to hunt through magazines wondering where I saw "that one great layout". Nor do I have to cut up my precious scrapbook magazines!! They are all shelved neatly on my bookcase, as a ready reference!

P.S. The great thing about my system is that I DON'T have to be in front of my computer to do it. I can do it in bed or in the car, on the couch or on an airplane etc.

Regina Johnson
NA
Lexington, KY

 

 

When searching for unique clip art ideas or embellishments, a great place to find them is in old magazines (ones showcasing art are the best). If you flip through, you'll find lots of colourful and interesting pieces to snip out and use later in a layout that needed an extra oompf!

Sharona Spangler
Seattle,, WA

 

 

Tags are such the rage now, but unfortunately premade tag colors are still limited. Check out your local paint store. Paint chips are free, come in tons of gorgeous colors and are also offered in many different sizes. Many paint chips also come with a faux finish to them such as crackle and/or a weathered look.

Worried they aren't acid free—either spray them with Archival Mist or adhere to a piece of acid free cardstock.

DRY EMBOSSING ON VELLUM

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Dry embossing on vellum is a beautiful way to create soft, muted embellishments for your pages. I was first inspired to try it when I read Sharon Lewis's tip in the November 2000 issue, and I've enjoyed the look ever since.

While Sharon emphasized embossing freehand, brass and plastic templates make it easy to create a great look with little fuss. Simply position the vellum over your template and use a stylus to gently "draw" around the edges of shapes and letters. If you need more definition, "draw" around the edges again.

I used templates to create the larger leaves and the word "love" in the figure. Just remember to flip your lettering template upside-down so your title will read properly when you turn it over!

You can also find simple shapes to trace in coloring books, picture books, catalogs and magazines. When you've found a pattern you like, lay it on any surface with a little "give" (my favorite is a mousepad), place your vellum over your pattern and trace. The small leaves, grass and wheat in the figure were created this way.

The next time you need a simple yet lovely page embellishment, pull out vellum and a stylus and try this technique. The look is sheer delight!

Kim Morgan
Pleasant Grove, UT

 

Recently I needed to adhere some vellum and reached for my CM Photo Mounting Tape. I figured, heck, give it a try. I first broke off about 1 inch of the CM photo Mounting Tape and tried it on a scrap of vellum. I couldn't beleive my eyes - you couldn't see the tape at all! I've tried this on blue, yellow, green and white vellum - WOW, finally an adhesive that will work with vellum great and it will stick permanently! Give it a try, you'll be as happy as me!

Betsy Crowther
Kilmarnock
, VA

 

 

I took extra die cuts that were purchased, but never used, and put them into an album for my nephew. One page showed an ark. The lettering was done with stencils (to save $). On this particular page it said: "One red ark". I continued this up to ten. Some pages were crowded but it worked nicely. On the unused pages of the album I placed shapes of paper and continued naming the shapes. He enjoys books so much, I knew he would love this one too.

Stephanie Green
Wentzville, MO

 

 

Color Blocking

Color Blocking is a fast (and fun!) way to create an eye-catching background for your scrapbook page or page accent. It generally involves two or more colors, but can also be done with two or more patterns in a monochromatic scheme or two or more random coordinating patterns. Simple geometric shapes make it easy to create color blocked backgrounds from your vast collection of scraps, so not only is color blocking attractive, but it's economical too!

A good example of color blocking involves using several sizes of rectangles or squares. It is also fun to throw a circle or other simple shape into the mix.

 

 

 

Ribbons Tie a yellow ribbon ‘round the ol’ oak tree (or around your scrapbook page!) Ribbons come in all sorts of widths and colours and patterns and can add a fun or elegant or soft feeling to your pages. In fact the use of ribbon in your scrapbooks is only limited by your imagination. Organza, Silk, Cotton, Rayon & Satin Look for silk and rayon threads generally used for ribbon embroidery. These fine ribbons are wonderful for creating flowers or tying together elements on your page. Imagine some gingham ribbon to add a finishing touch to a farm page. Use ribbon that has a memory attached! For example a hair ribbon used from the first day of school or a piece of ribbon from your daughters ballet concert costume. What about a piece of ribbon from your bridal bouquet? Don’t forget to mention the significance of the ribbon in your journaling. Here are a few basic ideas to start you thinking. To attach a journaling block punch two holes at the top and thread a ribbon through and finish with a bow. ‘Hang’ a picture. Wrap a whole piece of ribbon around your background page. Cut small slits along a border or around a photo mat and thread your ribbon through. Use a similar shade to your background for a simple stylish look. Tie little bows and use as a border. Tie 100 Yellow Ribbons ‘round that ol’ scrapbook page!

 

Some shaped eyelets tend to curl or look ‘puffy’ when they are set.
To avoid this look and make the eyelet look like its original shape, there are a few extra steps:

1. Set the shaped eyelet as you normally would.
2. Turn the page over so the eyelet is facing you.
3. Take your hammer and hit the front of the eyelet head on.

If you want, take a scrap piece of paper and put it on top of the eyelet. Then with your hammer, hit the front of the shape to flatten it out.

 

"I use block type fonts in titles on my pages quite a bit. I am always being asked how I do this, so I thought I would share. You will be surprised at how simple it is. This technique looks great when the title is placed on a darker colour cardstock. In this example, if I were to print a title directly onto the cardstock, it would be quite dark. Instead, I have chosen a lighter coloured cardstock and then print the letters out with spaces between each letter. I then cut out the letters (this is where the space between is important) and attach them to the page. I usually leave a border around the letter and this makes the title seem to pop off of the page. There are a number of 2 Peas fonts that can be used for this: Jana Banana, Beach Balls, Cindy, Flip Flops, Gift, Pancakes and Thrift Store Chair to name a few. Don't forget to try changing the colour of the font to coordinates with your cardstock or mixing up the fonts as I have done here!"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step by Step Instructions for Popular Graphics Packages

Your layouts are 12x12".  Your scanner is only 8.5" wide.  Here is what you need to do to post your layouts online.

By Todd Ferrante

 

I am not a scrapbooker.  My wife is.  I like to mess around with computers.  My wife does not.  She uses her computer as a tool to keep up with several scrapbooking message boards, and to scan and post layouts around the web.  When she switched from 8.5x11" to 12x12" layouts and wanted to post them, we sat down for a lengthy tutorial on how to scan and stitch her 12x12" layouts.

"Stitching" is a common function of many popular graphics programs.  It refers to the process of taking two scanned pictures, the left and right halves of a scrapbook page, say, and joining or "stitching" them together to get one single picture of the entire page.  Different graphics programs do this in different ways, and your results may vary depending on your software and skill level.

This article describes the step by step process of stitching in several graphics software packages.  My wife tells me this is a recurring topic on the message boards she frequents.  I'll walk you through the process and show you what results you can expect with each graphics package.

PREPARATION

Graphics software comes from many different sources.  I have gotten different pieces of software with my printer, my scanner, and my video card.  Others I have downloaded from the web.  As many as there are, there are even more kinds of scanner drivers.  The scanner driver is the scanner-specific window that pops up when you are scanning a page.  It lets you preview the page, set the borders and set the resolution of the scan.  There is no way for me to tell you how to scan a picture using your particular scanner (I only know how to use mine).  I have to assume that you can scan the two halves of your layout on your own.

That said, I can offer some tips on scanning the halves.
1. Scan your halves at 100 dpi .  There are all kinds of technical reasons why you may want to scan at higher or lower resolutions.  My wife scans at 100 dpi for one simple reason: it makes the math easy.  A 12x12" layout at 100 dpi will give you a 1200x1200 pixel image.  If you reduce the size by 50% the final image is 600x600 pixels.
2. If your printer driver lets you, turn off automatic color balancing (or whatever your scanner driver calls it).  If you have lighter-colored photos or embellishments on one half of your layout than the other, auto color balancing will adjust the color balance different for each half.  When you stitch them together, they will be mismatched.
3. Keep the halves in open windows, or save them as gif files.   If you have enough memory in your computer, leave the two halves in open windows in the graphics software.  If you do want to save the halves for later stitching, don't save them as jpg files.  Saving as a jpg will give a smaller file than a gif, but you will lose some detail.  Since you will probably save the final stitched layout as a jpg (for transmitting over the internet), saving the intermediate half pictures as gifs preserves the detail until the end of the stitching process.
4.  Scan the halves so you have about a 2" overlap between halves .  The stitching software works by matching common features in the overlapping regions between the halves.  If the overlap is too small, there isn't enough to work with.  If the overlap is too big, you will end up with a "smeared" look down the center of your final layout.  The smear will be there in any case, but if it is small, it isn't as noticeable.  The quality of the "smearing" depends on how smart the software is when it stitches.

Let's assume you have started the graphics software of your choice and have used your scanner to scan the two halves of your layout.  These are both in open windows in the software.  Going with the 2" overlap guideline, each half is 7x12".

Note:  For the purposes of this article, I scanned a layout and saved the two halves as both gifs and jpgs (at quality 100).  The left half is A and the right half is B.  This way I could use the same halves and compare the resulting layout, C.  I'll begin the step by step instructions with both halves in session as if they had just been scanned.

ULEAD PHOTO EXPRESS 1.1

I'm starting with this software because I got copies bundled with both my scanner and a USB video camera.  A trial version of the latest version of the software (4.0) is available at www.ulead.com.  The latest version costs $50, or $30 to upgrade from a previous version.

SUMMARY:  Open the halves, and select the stitch command.  In the stitch dialog, you must select a common point in the halves.  The software matches the points.  You then crop and save the results.

Stitching instructions here ...

Here is the resulting 12x12" layout, sized down 75%.  Click on the image to see the actual resulting image.

Things to note:  Journaling text is well aligned.  Double image in tree branches at top of layout.  Consistent, well-blended color tone of background paper.

ADOBE PHOTO DELUXE 2.0

Photo Deluxe is another software package commonly bundled with hardware.  My copy came with my printer.  Paid upgrades are available at www.adobe.com.

SUMMARY:  Photo Deluxe doesn't have a stitch command.  To get a stitched layout you must create a new, blank image and paste the two halves into it.  You then align the halves manually, crop, and save the result. 

Stitching instructions here ... 

Again, a thumbnail of the 12x12" layout.  Click on the image to see the actual resulting image.

Things to note:  The seam between the halves is near the left side of the journaling box.  Other than a slight shift in the edge of the background cardstock of the journaling box, the stitch seam is practically invisible.  Also notice that the scale of the final result is slightly smaller than is correct.  The software does this on its own during the stitching process.

SMOKEY CITY DESIGN, THE PANORAMA FACTORY 1.6

I chose to include the first two software packages in this article for two reasons: 1) They are widely available, and commonly used.  2) I already had copies of both of them.  Wanting to break out of my comfort zone, I did a quick web search to see what the "experts" recommend.  The Panorama Factory has a good reputation, and version 1.6 is available for free from www.panoramafactory.com.  You absolutely can't beat the price.  And, to my delight, it is both easier to use and gives better results than either of the two programs already described.  The latest version, 2.3, costs $35.

SUMMARY:  Import the halves, set a couple of settings, and select the stitch command.  The software aligns the halves automatically.  You then crop and save the results.

Stitching instructions here ...

Here is the resulting 12x12" layout, sized down 75%.  Click on the image to see the actual resulting image.

Things to note:  Almost flawless results.  With extreme magnification, you can notice that the JPEG quality is a little less than the others, but this is the only flaw I can find.

LAST WORDS

The three software packages I've covered illustrate varying levels of ease of use.  They range from completely manual alignment, to matching common points, to completely automatic stitching.  Most other stitching software packages will fall into these three categories.

For those of you who haven't posted your 12x12" layouts because you couldn't figure out your stitching software, I hope the step-by-step instructions I give will help you on your way.  If you are already stitching, but are unhappy with your results, the tips in the Preparation section should make a visible improvement in your final results.  For those in search of an easy-to-use tool which gives great results, use The Panorama Factory.

Lastly, for further information about panoramic photography and stitching photos, check out www.panoguide.com.

You've probably seen most of these but maybe not...

Versamark 1 pad and Different Techniques

1. A TRULY CLEAR EMBOSSING PAD: Just stamp and emboss with colored powder or clear powder (for a see through shine).

2. A WATERMARK: This is great for backgrounds, it will deepen the
shade of colored paper wherever you stamp. Just think about this,
for every color of paper you own, you now have a complementary
color of ink!

3. POPPIN' PASTELS: There are a couple of ways to accomplish this
effect on light colored card stocks. 1.) Apply chalks to the area
to be stamped, stamp with VersaMark and allow to dry or use heat
gun. Then rub gently with a clean cotton ball. You can get a
dramatic effect by adding more chalk to a cotton ball or dauber
after you stamped with the VersaMark. Or you can emboss while
stamped image is still wet with clear embossing powder and the
image will jump out at you! 2.) Stamp first then chalk gently over
the stamped area and watch the image magically appear.

4. REVERSE PASTELS: This time you use brightly colored chalk to
cover dark colored card stock (Basic Black, Night of Navy, Close
to
Cocoa, Old Olive, tc.) and then stamp over the chalked area.
The ink will pull out the color of the paper from beneath the chalk.
Be sure to clean the stamp before re-inking it as the chalk you
removed is now on your stamp and you will dirty your VersaMark pad.

5. SHADOWING: This is a technique to use with Kaleidacolor pads and
word stamps but you can use it for anything really. Just stamp
directly over your first image. Because you will seldom be exact
you will make a shadow that gives the initial image a 3-D effect.
You can even take it a step further and emboss with a transparent
powder like
Pearl or Iridescent Ice.

6. BRAYER RESIST: This technique can be done with Gold Encore or
VersaMark. Stamp image(s) onto Glossy White card stock using one of
the above inks. Gently wipe away the ink using a lotion-free tissue
and small circular motion. Ink up your brayer and roll it over the
paper. Wherever the VersaMark ink was stamped, the paper will resist
the colored ink from your brayer. This works on matte card stock but
looks better on glossy.




7. VERSAMARK & 2-STEP STAMPIN: Stamp the same image first w/VersaMark & then with metallic (Encore). Just shift the image a little bit when stamping the metallic ink. It gives it a shadowed look. Looks great on baroque burgundy and forest foliage!

8.EMBOSSING ON GLASS: Using the embossing buddy first, then using the VersaMark to stamp the image on a glass container, then emboss with detail gold or silver. Fill it with candy and tie a ribbon on it.

9. EMBOSSING WITH YOUR 48 STAMPIN! UP PADS: Ink your stamp with VersaMark, then stamp on one of our 48 color pads or you can use a
dauber to apply the color ink if you are worried about the color pad.
Stamp and use clear embossing powder. Heat. Now you can emboss and be perfectly coordinated with the SU! Markers, cardstock and ink pads. Be certain to clean stamp before re-inking on VersaMark pad or you will
leave color on it.

10. DISCREET JOURNALING LINES: Although the VersaMark ink is sticky when applied, it dries like regular ink and loses the stickiness. It
is Acid-free and safe for scrapbook pages. It works perfectly on all
of our colored cardstock.

11. BATIK TECHNIQUE: Simply stamp your image using Versamark on
ultrasmooth white or confetti or other light CS and then emboss
with clear embossing powder. Let cool. Then gently wad paper into a ball
or you could fold it into a small square for a different look. Unfold it
and smooth it out. Place it on a towel and wet with water so the paper
is very damp. Next ink your brayer with a Kaleidacolor pad and brayer
across the paper. The image will stay white while the ink will seep into
cracks and the rest of the paper will have a batik look. (Like back in
the 70's when you applied wax to a pattern on a shirt and then dipped it
in dye, cooled and chipped the wax away.)

From
Mich

 

 

 

Let's all chime in with tips for new Peas!

http://www.twopeasinabucket.com/mb.asp?cmd=display&thread_id=214561

 

Looking for the perfect song or lyrics? Try these web sites:

·  www.lyricsondemand.com

·  www.lyrics.com

·  www.lyricsplanet.com

·  www.lyricsworld.com

·  www.azlyrics.com

·  www.leoslyrics.com

 

 

The CAC Shoshini Brush Font is the perfect cursive font for exacto work!!!(Free from most major font sites)
I used Word art sized font at 150 for my 8x8 album.
-175 to 200 for 8 1/2 x11 to 12x12.
(Set Page set up for Landscape)
-set it for bold. (I print them in outline, no fill, backwards and glue stick them to backside of CS or PP)
I cut 3 titles last night out of Bazzill and it is yummy!!!!!!! I could eat it.
And I am a font snob=)
Try it!=)
Happy Scrapper

 

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