| Koi: Japanese koi are carp. These fish are generally expensive, but range in mature size from 2 to 3 feet, come in many colors and live for a very long time. Koi are best suited to ponds larger that 6 feet minimum diameter and at least 18 inches deep. |
| Goldfish: Are smaller and by far the most popular fish for pond use. They are less expensive, come in many colors, and range from 10 to 12 inches at maturity. Goldfish will breed in your pond thus increasing in numbers over a period of years. This may present a problem for small ponds. |
| Frogs: Frogs are good for the pond; they supply tadpoles which are efficient scavengers and food for fish and dragonfly larvae. Also, the adults in conjunction with the fish control the mosquitoes and other insect problems. |
| Fish: Fish are not necessary for the balance of the pond, but their presence will greatly increase the speed that it is established. Further, fish eat many of the undesirable visitors to your pond, keep submerged plants pruned, recycle nutrients in the system, and add immeasurably to the beauty of the pond. Fish should be stocked at a rate no more than 1 inch of fish per 3 to 5 gallons of water in the pond. Fish attain a greater size, do less damage to submerged plants, and remain healthier if stocked at rates below the capacity of the pond. Thus a small circular pond 5 feet in diameter and 18 inches deep holding around 160 gallons of water will accommodate from four to five 10 inch fish. When first introducing fish to the pond, put the fish still inside their sealed bag into the pond allowing 15 minutes for the temperature to equalize between the bag and the pond before releasing the fish. If it is a sunny day cover the bag to prevent overheating. |
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| BACK������������������������������������ WATER GARDENING |
| Plant Life |
| Plants available for use in water gardens are many. Choosing these is a pleasure, but there are certain considerations to be taken into account. Most considerations, such as water depth, amount of sunlight, and how each species relates to its surroundings should have been considered during the design phase. Floating leafed and submerged plants are necessary for a healthy pond and must be included in your selection. The following is a partial list of cultivars of readily available plants by use group. For more information and prices, go to your favorite garden center and look at the stock, or write for catalogs from the many mail order growers found in garden magazines. |
| Floating leafed plants |
| Usually water lilies. Plant enough to cover 50 to 75 percent of the surface area of the pond, or approximately one for every 10 square feet of surface area (there are dwarf varieties for barrel gardens). Floating leafed plants will cover the surface of the water to a point that will, if done correctly, limit the amount of light reaching the depths of the pond holding algae growth in check. Thus, Lotus (Nelumbo spp.), which hold their leaves above the surface of the pond, do not contribute to this maintenance tool and are considered under Bog or Marginal Plants. Water lilies (Nymphaea spp.) are of two types, tropical and hardy. Tropical water lilies in turn are divided into day and night bloomers. Hardy water lilies are all day bloomers. Some hardy water lily flowers change color shades over the life of the bloom, adding to the character of these unique plants termed "Changeables." Some available water lilies cultivars include: |
| Submerged plants |
| Submerged plants are the oxygenators of the pond -- a must if your pond is to be healthy and support fish. Submerged plants may become aggressive if planted in earthen ponds. Especially the first three listed which may take over a pond. The Texas Parks and Wildlife Department and the USDA have listed 12 species and one entire genus of plants on a list of restricted aquatic plants. These aggressively spreading plants are considered noxious weeds. The import, sale, purchase, propagation, or possession of any plant or its seeds on this restricted list is illegal without proper licensing and permits. In fact, many of these same plants are sold in the water garden catalogs since they are not restricted in states with colder winters. If you are unsure of the plants you are interested in, call the nearest Texas Parks and Wildlife office and request information. Roots of these plants are not used for nutrient or water uptake, but for anchorage, so oxygenators may be potted in gravel. Submerged plants should be stocked at a rate of one bunch per 2 square feet of surface area, in groups of 6 to 12 per pot depending on the size of the pot. Caging these pots is often advisable if the pond is to contain fish, which tend to forage on submerged plant foliage. Some available cultivars are: |
| Extras |
| Free floating plants |
| Free floating plants such as duck weed, water lettuce, and water hyacinth, though not necessary, add the finishing touch to a natural appearing water garden. These plants move with the breeze and produce an ever changing appearance for the pond. Functionally, they add to the oxygenators and produce varying casts of shadow that the pond owner and the fish will appreciate. Though in colder climates these plants are excellent choices, Giant Duck Weed (Spirodela oligorhiza), Water Hyacinth, and Water Lettuce are restricted plants in the state of Texas. Some examples of these interesting plants are described below as well as one commonly available one that is not restricted in the state of Texas: |
| Though these plants may be available, be aware when ordering from mail order catalogs that they are illegal in Texas even though advertised in many water garden catalogs and usable in other areas of the country. If you are unsure contact your local Agricultural Extension Service. |
| Bog or marginal plants |
| Though most are not grown for their flowers, some bog plants offer help for those unable to site their pond in sufficient sunlight for the majority of water lilies. Some plants can tolerate as little as three hours of direct sunlight. Some grow best in constantly moist to soggy soils, while others actually grow in standing water. There are many different species of bog plants with varying heights, textures and colors to their foliage. Plants for the bog garden or for margins of the pond add height and drama to the water feature; lotus, sagittaria, and dwarf bamboo add unique foliage, where iris, cattails, and sweet flag have unmatched upright linear texture. Some selections of bog plants are: |
| Plants for Bog and Adjacent Areas |
| Plants to surround the pond |
| Many of the bog plants can be used in areas surrounding a pond. Other plants for use around the pond should be of a character that their reflection lends drama to the pond. Colorful flowers, attractive bark or fluted trunks, or other winter aspects can add to the seasonal interests of a pond. Avoid plants such as walnuts and willows that have leaves with allelopathic characteristics. |
| Planting the Pond |
| Planting the pond is the most exciting time and one of the most crucial. Spring is the best time to complete this task. Plants bought for the pond should be in top condition and installed immediately upon receipt if possible. Therefore, do not purchase the plants until you are ready to plant, or if ordering through the mail, plan their arrival carefully. Many mail order dealers ship their plants at only certain times of the year. |
| Plants bought from a garden center are often potted and ready to be placed in the pond. If not, or if you purchase your plants from mail order houses, they will come to you bare root, wrapped in plastic containing moist organic media or paper. These plants should be removed from the media, washed, and potted immediately upon receipt. Plan ahead and have your soil, fertilizer tablets, pots, and burlap, if you are using baskets, ready ahead of time. |
| Lilies (Nymphaea) |
| Tropical lilies form crowns and should be planted in deeper pots. The crown should be placed in the soil near the top and covered with only as much media as is needed and then 1 inch of gravel leaving the growing point above the soil and gravel. |
| Hardy lilies grow from rhizomes and should be grown in wide shallow tubs or baskets. The rhizome should be placed in the soil at a 45 o angle and covered with soil and 1 inch of gravel. Be sure to leave the growing tip above the soil and gravel. Tropical and hardy water lilies should be covered with 6 to 18 inches of water. |
| Lotus (Nelumbo) |
| Water lotus should be considered a bog plant, as they do not contribute to covering the surface of the pond as do the floating leafed water lilies. Water lotus grow from large vigorous banana shaped rhizomes and must have at least two nodes (the pinched looking area of the rhizomes) left on them when divided in order to survive. Their roots are brittle and can easily be broken, killing the plant. Lotus should be grown in large tubs or baskets no less than 32 quarts in size. Place the rhizomes shallow in the pot and cover with soil and 1 inch of gravel. It may be necessary to put a rock or brick over the tubers of these plants until rooted to prevent them from floating out of the soil. Lotus should be placed in the pond about 4 inches below the water surface. To place the lotus in deeper portions of the pond, put them up on blocks or bricks to achieve the proper depth. Place scraps of liner under the bricks to guard against punctures (Figure 5). |
| Oxygenators |
| These plants often arrive in bundles of cuttings and should be planted as they are into pots and placed on the bottom of the pond. Their roots are merely for anchorage so they can be placed in sand, soil, or gravel. |
| Bog plants |
| These plants should be placed in pails or pots on the shelves of the pond where the crowns of the plants are covered by about 1 inch of water. |
| Floating Plants |
| These plants should be rinsed well before placing them directly into the pond. |
| Wildlife |
| Snails: There is some controversy over including snails in the pond. The Japanese black snails may not help keep the water cleaner, though they do slowly eat away at the algae. They are, however, fun to watch for and they will not get out of the pool and damage any other plants in your garden. |
| Unwanted guests: In most instances, if you have stocked your pond properly and maintain the health of your pond inhabitants, there may be the occasional unwanted "Diving Water Beetle" or "Water Boatman," but these and others pests can be kept in check by the predation from larger fish and frogs. |
| Maintenance |
| Water |
| Clear water is usually the primary goal of any water gardener short of the first lily blooms. In a new pond, however, the water is seldom clear for very long. This can be rectified easily if the pond is of the correct depth, has a good filtration system, and correctly chosen plants and wildlife are stocked in sufficient numbers. The only ingredient left to clear the new pond water is patience. |
| The worst thing to do is change the water. Replacing the water will only delay the developing balance of the new pond's ecosystem. There are algaecides on the market and even dyes to artificially color the water, but these are only temporary solutions to a problem only nature can correct. When fertilizing the lawn, take care not to contaminate the pond. Any new nutrients introduced to the system will only prolong the life of the algae or even start an algae bloom. Algaecides are of dubious value as they kill the algae all at once instead of the slow natural death rate that the pond ecosystem can handle. When this happens, the microbial population of the pond begins a massive degradation of the algae and in so doing uses all of the oxygen in the pond. This will weaken the animal life in the pond and possibly result in a fish kill. |
| What is turning the pond green are innumerable single celled algae. These are present in all water and will create a bloom in any water left in the sun undisturbed. The long filamentous algae that grow on the bottom and sides of the pond are not responsible for the discoloration of the pond. These filamentous algae are actually good for the pond and aid in concealing the liners, shelves, pots, and bricks used to prop up some pots. |
| In time the balance of the pond will shift away from the green algae, and the plants will cover most of the pond's surface denying light to the algae. The oxygenators and other plants will eventually outcompete the algae for the available CO 2 and soluble nutrients. Sometimes the pond will suddenly clear overnight as the algae succumb and sink to the bottom. |
| Occasionally throughout the pond's life, this algal bloom may reoccur for a short time. It may happen in the spring when the water in the pond has turned over (undergone a temperature inversion), the temperature of the water is increasing, the nutrient levels are up, and the plants are still dormant. Algal blooms of short duration are to be expected. |
| Pumps |
| Pumps should be pulled from the pond and cleaned regularly. The filters may need weekly cleaning. The interval will depend on your particular pond's ecology. The filter should be checked weekly, and the pump inspected at these times and records kept to build a history of your pond. This is the best way to know what your pond needs and when. |
| Liners |
| Liners should last without problem for the time specified by the manufacturer if they are properly installed and care is taken not to puncture them while walking in the pond to service the plants, fish, and circulation system. |
| Edging |
| Edging, if well designed and constructed, should never need servicing. If the liner is installed and does not allow water in under the edging materials, and the ground underneath is firm, the stone or brick pond edging should give no trouble. If the pond is edged by lawn edging or has no edge, the main concern is to avoid contaminating the pond with lawn fertilizers and pesticides. |
| Plants |
| As the leaves and flowers of the aquatic plants die they should be removed. Watch the root balls and leaves for damage by fish and insects. Once a year lotus will need repotting in the south portion of Texas; in the north, every 2 years. |
| Fish |
| Fish should be watched for infections of fungi and other parasites. If any die, remove them as soon as they are found. If any seem particularly intent on eating your plants, decide which you are most fond of and take appropriate action. |
| Winter |
| In winter the pond slowly shuts down. Any tropical species should be stored in the proper manner for each plant. The fish have greatly slowed their intake of food and their actions in the pond. They will need feeding only occasionally in the south and not at all in the north where the ponds freeze over for the winter. In the event that the pond should freeze over, a hole in the ice must be maintained for the survival of the fish. If the hole is not maintained there can be little air/water gas exchange and the fish will die as they continue to respire and use all of the oxygen dissolved in the water of an ice covered pond. A hole in the ice can be maintained using any of the commercially available electric ice melting devices specifically designed for use in pond situations. Never use any device not manufactured specifically for that purpose. Never hit the ice with anything to break it open. The force from the blow will reverberate as shock waves in the pond and kill the fish. This is one of the major causes of winter death of fish in home ponds. |
| Another source of problems for the plants in winter is the accumulation of fallen leaves that may blow into the pond with every gust of wind. These and any dead fish should be removed immediately. |
| You do not need to run pumps throughout the winter as the fish need very little aeration and the algae are not growing at this time. However, the algae will have a spring bloom usually as soon as temperatures rise enough to heat the pond to any depth. At this time the pump and filtration system must resume its operation. |
| Site Selection |
| In selecting the site for the garden, consider the plants that you intend to grow in the pond, the soils on the site, how level the grade of the site is, surface drainage of the site, the view of the pond site from the house, the overall fit of the pond in the existing landscape, and anticipated maintenance requirements. |
| General site selection requirements |
| A water garden should be located: |
| In full sun, or as much as is available. |
| At the most level site available. |
| Within easy access to water and electricity. |
| Where it can be appropriately viewed from the house. |
| ; Where the water can reflect the beauty of the surrounding landscape. |
| A water garden should not be located: |
| Where it is in a position to catch leaves falling from trees. |
| In a low spot in the yard where heavy rain could flood it. |
| Where soils are prone to saturation which could cause the liner to float. |
| Effect of plant selection on the location of the pond |
| If you want any flowering aquatic plants such as water lilies in your pond, these dictate the site be in full sun for optimum flowering. Some exceptions are such water lily cultivars as 'Comanche' and 'Graziella', which flower with as little as 3 hours of direct sunlight. For the best growth and establishment of all of your water garden plants, a minimum of 5 to 6 hours of direct sunlight each day is recommended. |
| If none of these conditions can be met, then consider a quiet, cool bog garden. Far from a dark, dank, mosquito infested swamp, a properly designed and maintained bog garden can be a cool green retreat in a shady summer garden. |
| Effect of the existing soil and grade |
| For the best results and ease of construction, a site with a well drained surface and subsoil is best. A sandy loam textured soil will prevent soil saturation from floating the pond liner. If the area has good surface drainage there will be fewer problems with runoff of chemical pesticides and fertilizers into the pond from the surrounding land. The more level the site the less work in constructing the pond. |
| View of the pond from the house or decks |
| When deciding where to place the pond, consider the place from which you will most often view it. If this is a deck or patio, be sure that this view is not obstructed by hedges or other tall landscape features. Remember that the pond is in the ground and even tall grass or ground covers can completely obscure the view. |
| How the pond fits into the overall landscape |
| Once the exposure, soils, drainage, and views have been worked out, consider how the pond will fit into your existing landscape. Are there any tree roots nearby from shallow rooted plants such as elms (Ulmus spp.) and willows (Salix spp.), or trees that do not tolerate root disturbances like post oaks (Quercus stellata)? Will there be any trees close enough that leaves, fruit or twigs will present a maintenance problem? Are any of the trees walnuts (Juglans spp.)? These trees have a chemical in their roots that inhibits the growth of neighboring plants. Will the reflection of existing plant materials in the pond add to or diminish its overall appearance? Will the surrounding plants eventually grow large enough to shade the pond? Will construction of the pond necessitate construction of a fence? Will the pond cause problems in the overall pattern of surface and/or subsurface drainage? |
| Maintenance concerns |
| The site of the pond should facilitate its management. If the pond is sited too close for its size to a wall or other obstructions, this could cause a problem reaching all of the pond's surface for cleaning and removal of dead leaves. If the pond is to contain tropical water lilies or other nonhardy plants, it is helpful to locate it close to the selected storage facility or close to a level hard path leading there. The site should have access to water sources for filling and "topping off" the pond and close electrical outlets if there are to be any lighting or filteration systems included in the design. |
| Design Consideration |
| The design of the pond is of utmost importance. First, ask yourself, "What role do I want this pond to fulfill in my landscape?" Whatever the answer may be, the design of the pond should take into account: |
| The pool's intended place in your overall landscape design |
| Designing an entire landscape including a pond would be ideal; however, the majority of the ponds installed are retrofitted to an existing landscape. The relationship, therefore, of the pond to the rest of the landscape should be carefully considered before beginning. A list of questions to consider before starting is given under "Site Selection." |
| Space available |
| The size of the pond is very important. The smaller the pond, the greater the impact seasonal and diurnal temperature fluctuations have and the less stable the overall pond environment will be. Minimum size for a healthy balanced pond is considered to be about 50 square feet of surface area (a mere 10 foot X 5 foot rectangular pond or an 8 foot circular one). |
| Depth |
| Another important factor in the overall health of the pond is the depth. Depth of the pond should range from 18 to 24 inches. Greater than 3 feet of depth is not necessary and would prove a maintenance hazard. In most urban areas, any pond over a depth of 18 inches requires that it be enclosed in or the yard surrounded by a fence 6 feet or taller. If space for adequate surface area is not available, this can be offset to some degree by increasing the depth of the pond. |
| If you cannot afford much space or the digging is too great a job, all is not lost. Consider a barrel water garden. With proper plant selection and winter maintenance, this can be a viable solution. See construction of a barrel water garden in "Construction Methods." |
| Shape |
| If the pond is to achieve its potential for your landscape, the shape of the pond should complement the shapes dictated in your landscape. If your landscape is formal in style then the angles, lines, and smooth curves should be repeated in the shape of the pond, preferably in a concentric arrangement. If your landscape is informal, then this freedom of line and form should be reflected by a less geometric design. If the pond is constructed of flexible liners, your options are almost limitless; however, if you elect to use a preformed shell liner, your options are more limited. |
| Size |
| Size of your pond should be a question of proportion and is an important design consideration. If the pond is to occupy a place of prominence, such as the central theme of the landscape, then its size should reflect this by taking a greater proportion of the area allotted to hardscape. If the pond is a nuance or an accent, then it should be in proportion to the other accents of the garden. |
| Also, in deciding on the size of the pond, consider the amount of work to be done. This may help determine whether you will attempt the construction yourself or hire the work done. For one of the minimum sized commercially available preformed shell liners of 50 to 65 gallon capacity, approximately 6.7 to 8.7 cubic feet of soil must be removed, or 0.25 to 0.32 cubic yards (only about 2 to 3 wheelbarrows full). |
| Soil removal |
| What is to be done with the soil removed to make the pond? If need be, arrange for its removal, but better yet, find a project such as a raised bed to build with the soil. After figuring out the gallonage of the pond, use this number to determine the amount of soil that you must remove. For every 1 gallon of water in the pond, there are 0.134 cubic feet of soil to be removed, in addition to soil removed for edging and sand cushioning underneath. Thus, for a 100 gallon pond more than 13.4 cubic feet of soil must be removed, enough for a 5 foot square bed raised 6 inches. |
| Edging |
| Edging materials help to tie the water feature into the overall scheme of the garden. A coping such as brick, rocks, steel edging, or wood around the pond can be used to accent the pond. Alternatively, inappropriate edging materials can diminish or overstate the pond's importance in the landscape. |
| Use the colors, textures and form of the individual pieces of edging material to complement or reinforce the position that your pond occupies in the overall hierarchy of your landscape. These materials, in any case, should complement any edging materials already in use. Decide early on in the design phase what type of edging will be used. This decision substantially impacts the construction phase. |
| Local regulations |
| Some local governments have no restrictions on pond construction. However, most require fences around the yard of any pond 18 inches or greater in depth. Many municipalities require recirculating pumps and filtration systems. If garden hoses are used to fill the ponds, they must be equipped with an antisiphon device. Some city and county governments require that all ponds be inspected after construction for these and other sanitation issues. Some municipalities require building permits. Check with dealers in your area carrying water garden construction supplies about specifics for your area or call the local authorities if you are unsure. |
| Construction material selection |
| Choice of materials should take into account the cost, life expectancy of the material, installation requirements, availability in your area, and how these materials may blend with the existing materials in your landscape. The liner is generally the most important and most expensive component of the water garden. Some examples of liners in order of life expectancy from shortest to longest are: |
| PVC (fish grade)--7 to 15 years |
| Butyl or Rubber (fish grade)--30 years |
| Fiberglass--50 years |
| Concrete--Lifetime, if done correctly, but very difficult and much skill required. |
| Plants |
| Plant selection for the pond is, of course, one of the major design considerations. However, as stated earlier, most ponds are retrofitted to an existing landscape, so for best results, the plant material chosen for the pond must be in concert with existing plants in the landscape. Some design aspects to keep in mind when attempting to match or contrast the pond to your landscape are: overall plant texture, color and length of bloom, foliage type and texture (including the effects of variegation), height, evergreen vs. deciduous, and overall form. If you do have the luxury of designing a landscape to include a water garden, read the section on "Plant Life" before choosing your plants |
| Construction Methods |
| Tasks and tools needed: |
| Digging: shovels -- round point and square point, picks, crow bar. |
| Leveling: carpenter level, string, stakes, and a long 2X4. |
| Packing: a tamping tool. |
| Hauling materials: wheelbarrow, plastic sheets. If the waste soil is to be used on site then remove it in a wheelbarrow as it is dug. If it is to be removed from your residence, store it on a large plastic sheet or an old quilt until it can be removed. |
| Finishing concrete: wooden float, trowels. |
| Materials needed: |
| Liners: order whichever type chosen, well ahead of the proposed construction date. |
| Sand: a 2 inch layer of sand should be included beneath any flexible liner to cushion it from sharp objects in the subsoil. |
| Chemicals: Most cities treat their water supply with chlorine. If you use a municipal water supply to fill your pond, call the city water department and ask if they add chlorine dioxide or chloramines. If so, there are compounds on the market that can be used to eliminate these. If chlorine is the only additive, then fill the pond and wait 24 to 48 hours for it to evaporate before stocking. |
| Pumps: Though a pump for recirculating the water in your pond is not necessary, they are strongly recommended by most professionals and required by health departments in many cities. The size of pump for your pond will depend on several things, but for the best results and the clearest water the pump should be capable of circulating the entire volume of the pond's water through a filter in 1 to 2 hours. The faster the better. If a water feature such as a waterfall is to be included in the water garden, the pump must be of a size capable of carrying the extra load and fast enough to handle the transit time of the water in the feature. The faster the water falls (the steeper the grade) and the greater the amount of water falling in the feature, the greater the capacity of the pump needed. |
| Pump filters: These remove particulate matter such as algae, sediments, and fish wastes from the pond's water. There are two main types of filters, mechanical and biological. The mechanical filters are less expensive but require more maintenance. Mechanical filters require the entire volume of water in the pond to circulate through them at least once every hour to be effective. These filters are easy to install and generally lay on the bottom of the pond, but may need cleaning as often as once every few days. The biological filters are more expensive but need less care. Biological filters are more difficult to install but may need attention as seldom as once a month. |
| Edging materials: If edging materials contain concrete or if blocks used in raising the potted plants contain cement, these materials must be leached with an acidic solution or soaked in several changes of water for one week before being added to the pool. Concrete is basic in nature and will have a detrimental effect on life in the pond. |
| Pots for plants: Pots for the plants vary in size and increase in direct proportion to the size of the mature plant and the number of plants to be placed in the pot. Plastic is the best material for pots. Pots for aquatic plants may be pails, buckets, baskets, or pans. Baskets are often the best choice as they allow more surface interface of soil and water for gas exchange. Baskets, however, must be lined with a burlap type material to prevent the soil from clouding the water. |
| Media for plants: Potting media for all pond plants should be fertile heavy clay loam. This soil should be free from fertilizers, herbicides and other pesticides. These chemicals, if not directly toxic to the plants, can leach out and cause damage to fish and animals living in the pond. Soil should also be free of any fresh organic matter such as peat (fresh organic matter will tend to float out of the soil and cloud the water). All media must be covered with a 1 to 2 inch layer of coarse gravel or rocks (not sand) to prevent the clay from dispersing into the pond water and to prevent the fish from roiling in the soil. |
| Fertilizers: Fertilizers used should be special aquatic pelletized slow release form pushed in at the base of the plants. You may also use a well balanced fertilizer mixed into the soil and then packed into the middle of the rootball at the bottom of the pot to prevent it from leaching. Caution should be used as any fertilizer leaching out into the water will cause an algae bloom. |
| Maintenance tools: A long poled dip net is handy for the removal of leaves and other fallen materials. Garden shears facilitate pruning of water plants. A pH meter or testing kit is useful but not necessary as the test can be performed by the larger garden centers or the county agent. |
| Construction of the Pond |
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