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Chinchilla Corner

Chinchilla History
Chinchilla Health
Chinchilla Housing
Chinchilla Colors
Chinchilla Behavior and Handling

Chinchilla History

Chinchillas are from the Andes mountains in South America (represented by orange in the map below right). They have been hunted for hundreds of years for their fur, Almost to the point of extinction. There fur is the densest in the world, with as many as 60 hairs per hair follicle, it also happens to be extremely soft. Only in the last hundred years, though, have they been brought out of the mountains and domesticated. In 1918 a mining glimpse of a chinchilla. A native of Chile had captured one of the rodents and taken it into Chapman's camp to sell. Chapman purchased the rodent and developed a big interest in it. Chapman sought out permission from the Chilean government to capture chinchillas. The task was not an easy one; he first had to get permission from the Chilean government to venture into the Andes to capture chinchillas. Chapman (pictured at left in 1920 in the Andes) finally acquired permission to export and capture chinchillas in 1923. Chapman put together a party of 23 men for the journey into the mountains to capture chinchillas. With the chinchilla population being so scarce, it took these men 11 years to catch only 11 chins that would be suitable for breeding purposes. Out of the 11 chins only 3 were female. Chapman spent the next 12 months slowly moving down the mountain with the chins. The trip was long because the chins had to adapt to the climate and surroundings. Other people hadn't given the chins enough time to adjust to lower elevation and temperatures, which resulted in the deaths of those chins. Chapman used blocks of ice and avoided sunlight as he made his way down the mountain with the chins, all 11 chins survived. The chins traveled by boat to California with Chapman (at right with one of the original cages). While on board the ship they still received constant care. Supplies of ice were used to keep them cool, and wet towels were placed on their cages. On the trip home one chin died and one was born, they arrived in Los Angeles on February 21, 1923.

Chinchilla Health

Food

Chinchillas are from the Andes mountains so they have a very different diet than other household rodents like rabbits. In their natural environment they eat roots, bark, seeds, and vegetation. It is important that they get lots of vitamins and minerals that regular processed pellets don't provide. You can get them regular pellets and then other supplements. My brand of choice is Kaytee because I find it is a quality food. I give my chinchilla Kaytee Forti-diet (pictured lower right) in his bowl, refilling it when it runs low and in the evening I give him a small scoop of Kaytee Fiesta (pictured at left). Also fresh hay is very good for your Chinchilla, it gives him necessary vitamins. Timothy Hay is my choice brand as I find it to be fresher than other brands. Chinchillas are not like other animals, they only eat what they feel like, there isn't the food drive. This means that it is fine for you to just put in food whenever it looks like they are running low. Chinchillas favorite treat seems to be raisins. But you have to be careful because if you give them more than about 4 or 5 raisins they will get diarrhea. Also for their calcium I give my chinchilla the Critter Cone Mineral Treats by Super Pet. You can get these and the Kaytee food at any Petsmart or Petco. The other thing my chinchilla loves are sunflower seeds. I got a pack of them (non-salted) at the grocery store and I put about 2-3 in his bowl everyday.

 Pictures courtesy of Petsmart.com.

Chewing

Chinchilla constantly chew in the wild so it is very important you always have something to chew on so that their teeth get the "exercise" they need. The ideal thing for chinchillas to chew on is
wood. But you need to be very careful because certain kinds of wood are poisonous to chinchillas. The woods that are truly poisonous are redwood and black locust, almond wood is also pretty bad. You should avoid Citrus fruit tree wood and wood from the fruit genus Prunus (cherry, apricot, peach, almond, and plum, etc.), Tallow, Mahogany, Cypress, Elderberry, Eucalyptus, Ebony, Fir, Greenheart, Ginko, Hemlock, hydrangea, Iroko, Ironwood Blackwood, Boxwood, Box Elder, Beech, Cashew, Cedar, Chestnut, Chinese Snake Tree, Katon, Laurel, Maple, Myrtle, Obeche, Oak, Ramin, Satinwood, Sandalwood, Spruce, Sneezewood, Teak, Wenge, Walnut, and Yew. The woods that are okay for your pets to eat are mulberry, apple, pear, loquat, grape, medlar, quince, strawberry, hawthorn, rowanberry, rose hip, and blackberry wood and vines. Sub-tropical woods such as mango and lychee can be given in small amount but I would say it's best to just stay away from them. Tropical fruit wood, like star and kiwi, are okay for your chinchilla to eat. Also let me say that it is very important that the wood is organic and has not been around chemicals. Chinchillas have a very low body mass and even a small amount of these chemicals is a big amount for a chinchilla. It should be organic, I get bundles of apple wood (pictured upper right) from the farmers market near my house, from a certified organic grower. I cages like maniacs they have something to keep them busy, at least for a little while. My would also suggest giving the wood to the chinchillas at night so instead of jumping around their chinchilla also loves Super Pet Lava Bites For Chinchillas (pictured above left). That said chinchillas will chew on just about anything. Mine has chewed my windowsill and my wall. You need to keep the amount of plastic in a chinchillas cage to a minimum and never buy a cage that is plastic, even partially (like the cage at the right). They can do unrepairable damage in minutes so never leave them in a room or area outside of their cage unsupervised. Please be a responsible owner and take care of your house as well as your pet.

Fur

       Chinchillas are said to have the softest and densest fur in the world. I'm not sure about whether they have the softest (a matter of opinion) but they do have the densest according to the San Diego Zoo ( a very prestigious zoo). Considering how beautiful their fur is its pretty low maintenance. They do shed every three months and during this time its best to take a small comb and just gently help free the dead hair from their coat. Chinchillas coats should, never, under any circumstances, get wet. Instead of water baths chinchillas get dust baths in little bath houses. The brand of dust I use is also Kaytee (pictured at left), and the bath houses are also Kaytee (pictured at right). In my personal experience its best for the chinchillas to have a dust bath every 1-2 weeks .

Spaying and Neutering

I would suggest, unless its needed, to not spay or neuter your chinchillas. I am all for keeping the number of unwanted pets down and volunteer at my local SPCA but in this case the risk is greater than the benefit. First, chinchillas don't reproduce so fast. Second, the surgery is very dangerous. Third, the surgeries are very expensive because they are complex. Chinchillas have a very small body weight so even going under anesthesia is dangerous. The surgeries are more complex because chinchillas are so small and because the males balls are not outside of their body. But if it is necessary then I would say go ahead. I have heard of complications and if its a companion you are looking for I would say get a chinchilla of the same sex.

Chinchilla Housing

Chinchillas need lots of room because of their boundless energy. I recommend having a wheel in their cage and as a general rule at least 2 levels because in the wild they live in trees. Make sure that there are areas of the cage that aren't mesh because it isn't good for their feet to be on wire constantly. Here is a list of what you want in your cage:

Above right is the 2 story cage that I have for my chinchilla. In my chinchillas cage I have the following items, all of which he uses:

Chinchilla Colors

Chinchillas come in colors. These colors are a result of genetic mutations. This first happened in 1955 when a white chinchilla was born in North Carolina. The color that chinchillas are in the wild (and make up 90% of domesticated chins) is Standard Grey. As the color mutations are indeed mutations many chinchillas that have the color mutation do not give birth to healthy offsprings. Here is a list of chinchilla color mutations and a brief description of each;

Afro Violet: Afro violets are bred by crossing a violet with a black velvet and then taking the offspring and breeding it back to another violet which creates a deeper/darker violet. An Afro violet is pictured at left.
Beige: The first beige chinchilla was born in 1955, the breeder who it was
born to thought it was sterile and sold it to another breeder, he was wrong. Beige chinchillas come into two different groupings, homo and hetero beige. Homo Beige are a light creamy color with a white belly. Hetero Beiges come in several shades of light beige. Often, the backs of such chinchillas are darker than the rest. Both types have red eyes and often have pink ears. A beige is pictured at right.
Black Velvet: Black velvets are one of the most sought after in terms of color mutations because they are rare and very beautiful. This color is characterized by a black mask and strip down the back along with a black strip across feet and a white underbelly. The first black velvet was born in 1956 but it is important to note that there are carriers for a lethal gene factor, so the shouldn't be bred with a chinchilla that is a possible velvet gene carrier. The picture at left is a black velvet.
Brown Velvet: Brown Velvets are the offsprings of a beige and black velvet. They are
distinguished by brown fur that fades to beige on the sides and a white belly.
Charcoal: Charcoal chins are dark grey/blackish. There stomachs are white to grey. Charcoal is a generally recessive and not treated as a traditional color. Pictured at left.
Dark Pastel/Tan: Dark pastels begin to get a darker coat that is closer in color to a light brown. This will come about in a 3rd to 4th generation of breeding to an ebony. Pictured at right.
Ebony: There are two types of Ebonies, Hetero and Homo, both are quiet popular. Homo Ebonies are all black with black ears and dark eyes. Hetero Ebonies are have a mix of gray and black fur with gray to black underbellies. Pictured at left is a Hetero Ebony.
Light Pastel: When they are born, they are almost near white in color but by the time they are1st Place Pink White Female Chinchilla adults they are beige in color. Light pastel chinchillas are generally the first generation offspring of ebony and beige chinchillas.

Pink White: Pink white chinchillas, also known as beige mosaics have pink ears eyes, often they also have beige patches of fur. Pictured at right, a show winning female.

Sapphire: Sapphire is a recessive trait of standard grey and it often is only distinctive because of a slight hint of sapphire in the fur. They are said to be hard to take care of and breed. They have a blue/white underbelly. A female sapphire pictured at left.

Silver Mosaic: Silver mosaics come from breeding standard grey chinchillas with white chinchillas. The end result is a chinchilla with white fur that has patches of gray/silver tipped fur.

Standard Grey: Standard Grey is the name that people have given for the original color chinchillas are. Wild chinchillas are standard grey and all of the other color mutations came out of standard grey. The typical coloring is a dark grey back with a white belly and lighter grey sides. Their hair is very distinctive as it has 3 parts; the bottom is a blue/grey, followed by a thin bar of white and finally, black tips. A beautiful Standard pictured at right.

Violet: Violets are not quite as purple as the name suggests, instead they have a light hint of violet in their coats. Violets have dark eyes with light grey ears. The first violet chinchilla was born in Rhodesia, Africa in 1960 and was later sold to Loyd Sullivan in California. My chinchilla is a violet, his picture is at the bottom of this website.

Wilson White: A Wilson White was the first recorded and known color mutation. The first one was born in 1955 in North Carolina. Like Silver Mosaics, they are produced by breeding a standard grey with a white chinchilla. The difference is that instead of having grey/silver tipped fur, they have actual patches of grey fur. They have dark ears and eyes.

White/eb: These chinchillas are white with gray or black patches on their bodies but are sometimes no color other than white. They have very grey ears and black eyes.
 

Chinchilla Behavior and Handling

Chinchillas are very different from other rodents because of the extremely different
environment that they came from. They are considered the smartest of all rodents and have such a good memory that mine knows the  whole downstairs of my house by heart. Chinchillas are nocturnal so they make a lot of noise at night and sleep during the day. If you have plans for having a chinchilla cage in your bedroom,  please take my advice and find another area for his/her cage. Each chinchilla has its own personality. Some are very sociable and love attention, while others are nervous and withdrawn.

With chinchillas its all in the raising. If the chinchilla didn't have any contact for the first 3 months of its life with humans it is going to take a lot of socialization and work to get it to the point where it is comfortable with you. If you decide to start handling a chinchilla from birth, its a lot of work but very rewarding. These "hand-raised" chinchillas love attention and will literally jump into your arms when you open the cage. At right is how you don't handle a chinchilla. They hate being restrained by cupping your hands over their back and will squirm until you change your position. At left you can see the woman is holding the chinchilla close to her and with both hands. The chinchilla is comfortable and feels secure. Since chinchillas fur comes out when they are scared, if you grab at them, its very important that they are comfortable when you go to take them out of the cage and hold them. If you have chinchillas that are hard to take out just start by putting your arm in the cage for a couple of minutes. When you go to catch them you should corner them in a area and gently scoop them up with both hands. Once the chinchilla is out you can hold them in the crook of your arm, in your hands, or let them sit on your shoulder (my personal favorite). My chinchilla is still young and jumpy so I always hold directly at the base of his tail because he will try a jump from any height. When you hold their tails make sure it is at the base because if they jumped and you were holding further down the tail their tail might break. I do think holding their tails is the best way because it doesn't hurt them and is better for their overall safety.

Help Links

Chinchillas Unlimited: This is a good sight for chatting with other chinchilla lovers and getting advice
Wikipedia has a good history and basic overview on chinchilla care
This is a link to a picture of a cute chin!

this is a picture of my chinchilla Baby Albert. 










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