| Kukeri and Baba Marta 4th March, 2003 |
| This past weekend was full of traveling, friends and fun. It all started on Friday morning when Jake and I got up early and headed into Plovdiv on the 6am train. We met up with Diane, Lisa and Tyler there, as well as a bunch of other volunteers who showed up later. That night we all went out to a nice dinner, to celebrate Jessica's birthday, as well as spend some living allowance early! The next day we headed down into the Rhodopi Mountains, to a small village called Shiroka Luka. Robert, another volunteer, lives in this teeny village (about 600 people) and told us all about the annual "Kukeri" festival that takes place. Basically, it's this ancient ritual where villagers dress up in costumes, usually furry with strange masks and wearing huge metal bells, and dance around to scare off the evil spirits. The kukeri celebrations lasted for about 4 hours, and then the horo started...and continued...and continued. The dancing lasted longer than the kukeri itself. While I did spend about 30 minutes out in the middle of the circle dancing, I soon exhausted myself and went to find a cold beer. The weather was beautiful and sunny, and I couldn't get enough of this glimpse of spring. On the way home from the tiny village, we took a bus into Pamporovo, where the annual ski party is held. Unfortunately it was the day before the liberation day here, and there were no seats available on a bus to Sofia. Marisa and I, being so handy and smart, stuck our thumbs out and shivered in the snow, waiting - praying, that someone would pick us up. We even learned all the sign language that they use down in those parts - I'd have to show you to explain. After about an hour of trying we had almost given up, when suddenly this really nice car stopped for us and took us all the way to Sofia and wouldn't even take money from us. Don't worry, I won't make this a habit! Saturday was also Baba Marta day, or Grandmother March. It's a great tradition, I think I wrote about it last year, but I'll tell you about it again. People buy red and white twisted threads, made into a bracelet or pin, and give them to family and friends. The tradition is that you wear it until you see a stork, and then hang it on a tree or put it under a rock. That is supposed to be the first sign of spring, and it's a wonderful tradition that I've trully enjoyed here. I think being around so many volunteers, I had about 45 martenitsi covering my body!! I also tried to send martenitsi back home, especially to my nieces, although I'm sure they don't understand the tradition. Well, that's all for now, I hope you are all well, S |