Taking Carb Apart:
Sterndrive oil leak problem and crack:
After cleaning with carb cleaner:
I posted on a message board whether these are real problems or not and this is what was said:
Eric,
1st, you obviouly have an old unit. Old as in 1964 thru 1966 model 1ABC with EZ shift.
The area I have highlighted on red is an empty pocket just forward of the actual area that is filled with oil. The green points to a drain hole that fills with sand & then fails to allow water to drain out. So, I will expect you are looking at freeze damage.
You can have that crack welded easily enough.
About the oil on that reverse lock mechanism - I believe it is running down from the exhaust passage above it. The shift shaft that operates the mechanism passes thru the exhaust passage & is not a sealed unit. So, either you have an oil burner or more than likely, the engine was fogged well for the winter & you are looking at residule oil from that. Run the engine & see if things clean up.
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ME:
Well, that is "good" news. I assume I should try to clear out that hole you marked in green then? (as well as getting the crack welded up.) Sounds like I could potentially run it as is temporarily?
So, far today, when trying to fire up the motor at the yard, I haven't seen any more oil.
I found that my "rebuilt" fuel pump is not doing it's job. It seems that the check valves aren't working and now I have to try to either replace them or find that new part of the pump.
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I have spent lots of time digging the sand out of that recess. It is only big enough for maybe a finger but about 10 inches deep.
Best case scenario to clean the recess is to split the lower units & work a long screw driver or something in there from the top. Since we are now into summer - or so the calendar implies - you can relax about getting the sand out until you are going to take it for welding. At that time, you can check the water pump too if you haven't been into it yet. There is really no stress on that part of the housing & I feel you can probably run it for some time without welding, but plan on eventually fixing it right.
Now about the fuel pump, I can see from the pictures that the boat is from the mid '60s. No later than 1967. Because the outdrive is black I will guess 1966 or 1967. What HP are we looking at here? A 110 or 120 4 cyl or a 140/150/160 6 cyl? Some early ones had multiple carbs. Get me a HP and serial number & I will look up a fuel pump.
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ME:
My boat is a 1965 Glastron Gulfcruiser with a mercruiser 140.
Serial number of the motor is 4919378.
Don't know if it's original motor or not.
There are a lot of pics off of my main webpage for this project at: http://www.geocities.com/sanclementeeric/glastron_v-195_gulfcruiser.htm
The fuel pump is a Carter. (Mercruiser 86234A4?) Sierra replacement part number would be 18-7278? But I don't need a whole pump, I would be happy with just the internal part with good check valves.
I already bought and installed a diaphragm kit on the fuel pump, but the valves are definately not doing their jobs.
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Eric,
The 140 came out in 1968, so obviously your engine is not original. Serial number back then would have started with something around 200xxxx. Your serial number is from the late '70s.
From the pictures of your outdrive with the oily reverse hook, you have the original drive.
Now about the fuel pump kit - you must have a kit from MerCruiser as Sierra does not service the pump with a kit. It almost seems you have the valves installed backwards. I remember that there was 2 installations of the pump & lines used over the years. They changed in the late '60s. One used a hose that looped over the top of the pump back to the inlet (maybe a pressure relief type deal), I don't know. That is why I asked the serial number. Turns out the pump is the same, just the lines are different. Price of the pump is $136.15 minus 20% plus shipping if you want one.
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ME:
Thanks for the info.
As you might have read on my "Parts Bought" page, I did buy the Mercury diaphragm kit for my pump. As far as whether the pump is backwards or not, I have checked it both ways and I am convinced that the check valves are shot. I have blown straight on them and there is no resistance either way.
Does Mercury sell the check valves and that other gastket in another kit?
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Not that I am aware of. From our point of view, it is a better deal to just replace the pump than charge $60/hr to try a rebuild.
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Well, you know me, I'm going to eBay! I'll find one cheap enough!
More about the boat:
Glastron Gulfcruiser