Exposure level: this ranks how visible the area is. In more exposed areas you are more likely to draw attention, and possibly get arrested.
Difficulty:
Difficulty is objective, especially for short climbs like builder problems. Here I have used either a YDS grade (i.e. 5.9) or a E, M, D rating (for easy, moderate or difficult). Don�t take them too seriously because they�re all just rough guesses.
Quality ratings:
* better than the gym
** serious fun
*** mega-classic
**** who needs real rock?
Strategy:
The best strategy is common sense. Climb at night, don�t be loud. Try to stay away from people. If folks do walk by, act normal and say hi. If they shoot you a dirty look, ask their permission about practicing your rock climbing on the buildings; avoid being confrontational.
VISUAL ARTS BUILDING
Exposure level: minimal
The first area of interest to the builderer is the Visual Arts building, located adjacent to Outback Adventures and the ERC dorms. In terms of quality and quantity of problems, and lack of exposure, this location is �numero uno.� The building material here consists of textured cinder blocks, providing an abundance of fingery edges and friction holds. Many problems encounter undersides of staircases, resulting in interesting and exciting roof finishes on metal bars and beams. One can climb just about anywhere here, so I�ve omitted many generic face routes in favor of the more prominent featured ones.
These routes are located off the sidewalk, near the staircase to the ERC dormitories.
1. Wooden Ships (7)- lieback the surprisingly steep, overhanging corner where the wooden prow meets the wall, near the staircase to the dorms.
2. Geometry Project (10-) **- A two-move wonder. Next to the fire hydrant, crimp two hex bolts and pinch/layback the fin to reach a big edge; descent is to jump down. Intriguing!
These routes are located inside of the main courtyard of the Visual Arts facility.
3. Awesome Tossem (8+)*** Underneath the staircase. Crimp on small edges (top of the blocks is off) and dyno out the roof to a jug at the lip, and try not to fly off! Descend via the staircase.
4. Too Easy (6)*** But not too bad, either! Climb the obvious rough hand/layback, descend via the staircase.
5. Difficult Face (10)-crimpy face on wall right of Too Easy.
6. Pillar to roof (8)-Sustained and exciting. Right of the elevator, layback or bearhug the pillar, then swing out through the roofs and up onto the staircase.
7. Pillar to another roof (8) this is the freestanding one.
8. I-Beam (9)- Slick layback up the I-beam.
9. V-hedral (7)* Kind of cool.
10. V-hedral ar�te (8)
11. Tall corners (unclimbed)-an inspiring highball challenge! A toprope could be easily arranged�
This route is located on the sidewalk next to Russell Lane.
12. Grandfather Clock (9)*** -Don�t get dizzy! Climb double ar�tes on the pillar, using careful counterbalance footwork.
These routes are located in the small courtyard near the backside of the Visual Arts Building, next to the other staircase.
13. The Gladiator, left (10-)*** -the striking arete. Technical climbing culminates in a grab to the railing. The I-beam is off.
14. The Gladiator, right (10) *** Slightly more difficult, but equally cool.
15. Wall Climbers Don�t Know Sport (10-) ** interesting edging problem left of the vent.
16. L-block traverse (9)** The top is off! This unassuming traverse gets pumpy and twisted; devious.
17. Let�s Get Horizontal (8)*** -by the door across the hall from the Arena, climb the ar�te to gain the horizontal I-beam. Climb horizontally for 15 feet before turning the lip. Easy, but quite a hoot!
18. Long Distance Call (8)-arete left of the payphone, turns a small roof at the I-beam
These are along the staircase on the way down to the back road.
19. Arete (8)**- adjacent to the staircase
20. The Prow (7)** -climb through the triangular roof (underside of the staircase) onto the point, avoiding getting skewered. Geometrically pleasing.
21. Lamplight Problem * (8+)
22. Chimney (5)
CENTER HALL
Exposure level: maximum
Center Hall houses one of the best climbs on campus, the Death Chimney (5.5 X) ***, located left of Center 101. This 40 foot unprotected chimney is a blast: good friction on the beige painted wall gives one the confidence to keep on going, and the exit move onto the terrace, faced with major splatter potential, is nothing less than exhilarating. To get down, trail a rope and rappel off the red beams above the terrace. This is a climb best done quietly and quickly, as it is quite visible being located next to the campus loop road and Library Walk.
Near the Peabody's coffee stand lies another supreme challenge to the bold builderer. The Peabody Pillar (5.9 R) *** is the smooth Yosemite-style squeeze chimney between the rounded pillar and the wall. Be ready for a full body workout�Peabody Pillar is sustained. Highly recommended!
Unclimbed challenge (?): layback the drain pipes and climb the overhanging red beams out over the roof.
MANDEVILLE HALL
Little Indian Creek Wall (aka Mandeville Loading Docks)
Exposure level: minimal
Here lies the best concentration of quality cracks on campus. From the Mandeville shuttle stop, walk down the road to the loading docks.
The Peewee Cracks (10) ** these are the first two splitter cracks, short but still sweet.
Straight Shooter (10+) *** one of the best climbs on campus! The third crack; fingerstacks and handjams lead up a clean splitter crack lead to the top. Reminiscent of Jaws, on Mt. Woodson.
Layback and Enjoy (5.9)*** is located around the corner, the obvious perfect lieback crack starting off the platform left of the unloading zone.
Cockroach Alley (10+) *** left of the corner, climb the clean splitter through a small overlap and to the top. Easily toproped (bring a large hex or nut).
MUIR COLLEGE
Exposure level: moderate
Muir has a handful of excellent problems. Worth a visit is the mysterious Hardman Pit, located underneath the HSS staircase. Some mysterious person/persons from long, long ago had glued a collection of sickingly small rock chips to the wall as holds, creating a hardman�s bouldering den. Some of the holds have fallen/been hammered off by the janitors, indicating the place has been abandoned for awhile now. The Hardman Pit would definitely be worth refurbishing if anyone is interested.
1. AP&M corner (9)*** This is great. Climb the corner, laybacking off twin fins, span the roof and mantel up to the 2nd story (scary). Descend by climbing down the tree to the left.
2. Corner Crack (8) *** Another good one. Nice handcrack in the corner to the right
3. Soda Machine Pinch Squeeze (8) ** To the right of the soda machines under the staircase, layaway off the corner and dyno to a pinch on the wooden slats.
REVELLE COLLEGE
Exposure: minimal
One of the best cracks on campus resides here. Go to Galbraith Hall, located on the Plaza courtyard. Incredible Handcrack (5.9) **** is the stunning crack on the pillar (pick any one), which ends with a reach around a roof to the 2nd story.
High Voltage *** an absolute must-do problem! Located on the corner of York Hall, next to the path leading through the arch and down to Gilman Drive. There is a high voltage wire running overhead that (don't touch!). There are several ways to do this gymnastic problem. Dynoing using both hinges (right hand and foot) is 10-. Dynoing using just the top hinge (right hand) is solid 10. Using no hinges, dynamically or statically is still unclimbed.
Also at York Hall the chimneys next to the main lecture theater have been climbed.
LITERATURE BUILDING CORRIDOR
Exposure: moderate
The Literature building corridor contains a hand crack in a corner through a roof, and up to a ledge. From there climb the corner to the top (20 feet). It�s pretty easy to stick this one�it�s full of tar! Descent from Gross (5.8): downclimb the route.
CMM BUILDING
Exposure: minimal
Parallel Pleasure (5.9). In the stairwell, near the crosswalk, climb the awesome handcrack to the second story. THIS IS THE BEST CRACK ON CAMPUS!!!
GILMAN PARKING STRUCTURE
Exposure: high
Watch out as security guards and RSOs patrol these premises.
An excellent, pumpy traverse (5.9) lies on the obvious wall adjacent to Russell Drive.
Sweet Tooth (10) *** Opposite the start to the last climb. Either jam or lieback the crack to gain a two finger pocket, then the top.
Unlawful Behavior (10) ** on the other side. Jam the crack, then make a long reach to a horizontal seam, and mantel over the lip.
OTHER
Potential still lies scattered around, including:
- RIMAC-arete problems next to road
- EBU II
- That sick offwidth on AP&M (long).
- Connecting the Corner Cracks for 8 stories to the final handcrack through the roof (AP&M).
- That other sick offwidth at HS&S
- The roof crack at York Hall (5.13?)
- The Pacific Hall chimney -- bring watermelon sized balls! (it 90 feet high)
RECOMMENDATIONS:
CRACK
Incredible Handcrack (Revelle)
Lay Back and Enjoy (Mandeville)
Straight Shooter (Mandeville)
Peabody Pillar (Center Hall)
Corner Crack (Muir)
Parallel Pleasure (CMM)
FUN
Awesome Tossem (Visual Arts)
AP&M Corner (Muir)
High Voltage
ADVENTURE
The Death Chimney (Center Hall)
Peabody Pillar (Center Hall)
HARD
High Voltage
Gladiator right
Straight Shooter
Cockroach Alley
