Ton Sai

The Details: Together with Dum's Kitchen, this is THE place where "real" climbers go to do their climbing and posing. (Beginners mainly go to 1-2-3). This makes these crags the place to go if you're in need of a belayer and can also make for a nice social scene. On the other hand you're likely to get queues, and all sorts of hanger-on "personalities" (aka f*ckwits), from dreadlocked fire-stick twirling wankers to emaciated over-tanned dope-addled semi-permanents with every move wired but nothing rational to say. And we weren't even there in high season! At high tide Stalagasaurus and others are accessible - but you'll be lowering off into knee deep or waist deep water.

Access: On Ton Sai beach, 5min from Raylae West, 10min from Raylae East.

A view from Fire Wall - the full height of Ton Sai is visible on the left, with Humanality (*** 100m 6b) roughly following the left edge of the shot. Stalagasaurus (*** 6a+) takes the steep nose of rock closest to the water. Dum's Kitchen is at the far end of the closer beach (Ton Sai beach). Thaiwand Wall is at far right down the far end of Raylae West beach.

Ton Sai viewed from Dum's Kitchen. A very rare sight to see no one at the crag!! Crags in the distance are (from L to R), Melting Wall, Fire Wall and Monitor Wall.

*** Humanality 149m 6b+/21 (OS)
This much-feted multipitch classic manages to live up to the hype, with several great pitches each having a personality of its own. I've described it as a 7 pitch route from the ground rather than a 5 pitch route from the ledge. First 2 pitches can be combined ok. 1) (30m 5) Up Tarzan. 2) (20m 6b+/21) Wander R along the ledge then a short hard bulge past a few bolts, then keep wandering R to belay. 3) (** 20m 6a+/19) Traverse R out of the cave above the overhangs below (extend or backclean first bolt to reduce drag), with a few steep moves up R onto the nose, followed by nice airy vertical climbing for 10m to belay. 4) (** 22m 6b/21) A very stylish pitch with steep tufa moves and plenty of lateral thinking. Very funky. 5) (*** 25m 6b+/20) The famous pitch. Easily trend up R from the belay to below the big chimney formed by the massive hanging stalactites. Increasingly difficult face climbing up a slight seam leads to a point where you can stem onto the massive stalactite. Being quite restful you have all the time in the world to contemplate the committing step out R of the chimney onto some crappy looking holds which lead to the belay. However there is a sequence which works very well and the holds aren't *that* bad - while it's the most thought provoking move on the route there's no way it's the crux. 6) (** 22m 6b/21) The "enforcer" pitch - you didn't think you'd be able to finesse the whole route did you? Committing steep moves out of the belay niche lead to pumpy steep thuggish pocket pulling. Just keep cranking! Solid 6b. 7) (* 10m 6a/16) Soft 6a, this is a minor addition to the route and you won't miss much if you decide to skip it and rap off instead. The exposure is nice though. Traverse L to the "root" of the massive stalactites and traverse out L onto it, then up a few metres to belay. We rapped 50m to the 3rd belay (as described) - to retain contact with the rock it's crucial to swing down inside the massive chimney and not down the outside of the massive stalactites. Then it's another 50m rap to the deck - you land on the roof of the restaurant!

* Cowabungalow 20m 6b/20 (OS)
Better than it looks - I quite enjoyed this. Leave your pack on the beach, rack up then climb the 15m ladder which leans against the lip of the massive overhangs. Move to the L end of the ledge next to a tree. Up the embayment until it steepens, then steep moves out L onto the hanging face. Up this with interesting contortions then the mirror image move - step steeply out R onto the short face leading to the anchor. Steeper than it looks, you need to clip into the rope to "train track" in and across to regain the ledge.

** Vikings in Heat 20m 6c/22 (L)
Also starts on the ledge at the top of the ladder. Starts 2m R of the ladder. Up the slabby nose for 8m to the business - a bloody steep section which overhangs 5m in the last 8m. Not your simple "crank and slap" moves, there's several slopers to reject the unwitting, along with some tricky underclings etc to assist the cunning. The last few holds do get wet in the rain, which blew any chance of me onsighting it (being pumped senseless had nothing to do with it!!! ;-)).

*** Stalagasaurus 20m 6a+/19 (OS)
The easiest route off the sand, and the steepest route of this grade you're likely to find anywhere! Great stuff. Steeply boulder direct into the line for the third star - traversing in is a pike! From the stance, the route goes to some steep cranks to gain stemming positions on each successive stalactite - outstanding 3D climbing. Self cleaning it and then taking the massive swing out over the water is great!! Unfortunately it also gets some of the worst queues of any route on the peninsula.

Update: As of May 2004 the first large stalactite has broken off Stalagasaurus, which is reportedly now significantly harder.

Climber cruising Lal Bab (*** 7a+/25). There are 9 routes further R, the easiest being 7c+/28, the hardest being 8b+/32!! Stalagasaurus is visible in profile further L, it goes up through all those stalactites (though the biggest one is no more!).

Climber sending Hang Ten (7c/27) - Tidal Wave (*** 7b+/26) is the route to his R. Cafe Andaman (*** 7b/25) is about 10m to the R. The walk around the rocks from Raylae West is visible in the background.

Same climber still on Hang Ten. Note the wooden ladder a little further along - that's the way up to Cowabungalow et al. In the background is the restaurant which you land on top of when rapping off Humanality!! Not far to go for a beer eh?!?!