Declaration Crag

The Details: A hugely popular crag thanks to the zero access. That said it's seen more than its fair share of groundfalls so don't forget to bring your brain - place good gear if leading, use double ropes, and back off if you can't protect it. It's only a 2 minute job to set up a toprope so why do anything silly? There's some very good bouldering and nice climbs, but there's only a few good routes below the mid 20's, which tend to get snapped up very quickly by topropers! You'll usually have to get up early to beat them to it. Generally they tend to disappear later in the day - which makes dusk my favourite time to climb at Araps. Access: Drive 1km S along Centenary drive from the Pines and park beside the obvious outcrop on the R. Otherwise it's a delightful 5min walk from the Pines, passing King Rat area and Colosseum Wall, some great bouldering, and probably lots of kangaroos and other wildlife. I recommend the walk. Descent(s): Scramble easily down off the far side from the road. Described L to R. * Marshmallow Sea 12m 8 (OS) On the road side of the crag, just L of the right hand chimney/gully. Amazing how many sinker wires can exist in a single route (though the middle 5m is blank). The direct start is undercut and more like 12-13, it being easier either side. It steepens nicely on jugs for the final 2m. Quite an enjoyable route, and ain't it just great to be out in the sun and climbing at Araps!! * Marmot's Wall 12m 16 (OS) A nice little warm up if you're waiting around for someone else to get off Little Thor (which is pretty likely). Not heaps of gear, but nice enough moves.

Marshmallow Sea (* 8) - me belaying Marcelle on his first outdoors climb. This is literally a view from the front seat of the car.

*** Little Thor 12m 20 (OS)
I was pretty happy with this onsight - at the time my hardest ever on trad gear - until my 2nd found out the piton is loose, meaning I was probably on a grounder for the last 2m. The crack gets progressively harder, 'til a big reach R over the roof to a jug lets you clip the piton (back it up!!). Then its jugs to the top. I strongly recommend using double ropes on this one, as there are many stories of the gear pulling out of the lower crack due to the rope jagging R around the roof.

Cruxing on the onsight. �

Running it out on a dodgy piton. Gotta love it! Damn those socks are trendy.

� 1997-2004 Will