We spent the whole morning at the National Civil Rights Museum.  It is amazing, our country has so many great museums. Then we headed to Sun Recording Studios where Elvis was discoverd. Bryan and I then took a van to Graceland, a tacky, commercial and overblown symbol of American culture.  Did you know that the president took the Japanese priminster here when he visited Memphis.....When the van returned to Sun Studios we took the tour. Now it was time to head out of Memphis but we had to pick up our laundry. I only mention this since it almost turned into a disaster. When we opened the brown paper at the store we discovered that we had the wrong clothes. Five minutes later a woman walked in with our package. Good thing, Bryan and I would have been wearing pink pants for the rest of the trip.  We arrived at the Shack Up Inn in Clarksdale, Mississippi around 7pm. This town is another home of the blues and we were in search of more live music. Ground Zero was one of the recommended places in the lonely planet guide book so we headed there around 8:30. While listening to the music we met Jeff a blues traveller from Sacramento, CA, he was also staying in the shack next to us at the Shack Up Inn. He led Bryan and I on a wild goose chase in search of an old juke joint in the country.  After 2 hours of driving in the middle of the cotton fields we headed back without finding the authentic music that we were looking for. Luckily we were safe and he was not a psycho.