Virgin Islands to Florida
Introduction
Seth had Karuna, a Wildcat 350 catamaran built in South Africa and was sailing her back to the US when I joined the trip in St Thomas. Seth's friend Ed joined the trip in San Juan, PR. Both Seth and Ed are in their mid twenties, so I was the token old fart and chief dishwasher. Both Seth and Ed are great cooks, but I must admit Ed fixes the best Rice & Beans I've ever eaten. Both make big messes in the galley. If only these two youngsters could see me now on my new surf board!
The following is from an email Seth sent to his friends and family about the trip. I added the pictures and just a few comments (or bait to Bob).
St Thomas, VI
Dingy fixed, family gone, and I’m ready to head to Florida, but with who? Well, a friend I sailed with 2 years back, Bob, was keen for a trip, and the mighty Ed (a college friend) decided that he was ready to set sail. Then… Grandma Ruth passed away. A wonderful person who loved to talk as much as my mom. Telling stories of driving the old model A car when she was 16, the great depression, and seeing movies for a nickel… I went home for a few days, and Bob chilled on the boat for a few days.
Back to the Spanish Virgins. Just as amazing. I saw turtles, rays jumping out of the water, fish, etc. Few other boats, and lots of fish. One day,
Bob found about 10 lobsters hanging, so I got the gloves. Our plan, take a stick and scare them out from under the ledge. We tried for an hour, and only ended up with two antennae… oops. We island hopped for 4 days, and got into San Juan to pick up Ed. For some reason, my engine started a high pitch squeak, and leaked near the raw water pump. Maybe a bearing going? Got the dealer out, only a loose belt!! Oops again… But, we were off for the Turks and Caicos, 30 days all planned out to make it for Ed’s flight back.
Turks & Caicos
Good winds got us there easily, and after 12 hour, Ed got over his seasickness, never to return! We had some great snorkeling, and ended up anchoring in a channel between sandbanks and Provo (the main town). Needless to say, May is HOT!! So we were in the water as much as possible. The water in the Turks & Caicos is crystal clear and refreshing!
Ed even caught the first fish of the trip (about 4 inches, but he was fly fishing). Lugging groceries was not fun, basically like walking through a sauna. Bob did the laundry, watched TV, and chatted with the locals.
Southern Bahamas
But off to the Bahamas, Abrahams Bay, where there are lots of lobster and grouper… We found neither, but we were desperate, so Ed and I got the hand lines out, and used our little 4-inch fish as bait… We found a coral head with over 30 squirrelfish, and went at it. We must have pulled in 20 fish, but only 10 were “keepers.” On to the Plana Keys, sailing through our only lightning storm, and decent squall. We arrived to a pretty beach on one side, and Aussie Rules (a 180 ft. heathen motor yacht, carrying only 5 passengers). But there were waves!!! Little, but fun. Everyone got up on the longboard, and I had a few decent 10-second rides. So, we stayed another day, surfed and snorkeled. Met some guys waiting for the weather to change so they could go the way we came from. They had already been there for 5 days, hopefully they have left…
(It is easy to sail down wind, which we did for almost the whole trip).
Run Cay, Bahamas
Rum Cay, a cool little island. We rested, snorkeled and then found out that there was a potluck at the marina. Well, you know that a potluck at a marina full of fishing boats is bound to be great! We stuffed ourselves with fresh tuna and dolphin. I made a good slaw that also got cleaned out but the best part was shooting the shit with the fishermen. Getting advice on what we should use, and where to go, and even being offered some mahi because the guy had too much, and only brings the tuna back to Florida! The next day, we went on a serious dingy mission to find a wreck. Well, we went inside the reef, and there were big waves. The wreck is outside. We had gone so far we might as well go for it??? Spur of the moment, it looked clear, between sets, and we were making it. Then… Big one, hit the gas, everyone jumped to the front, and we just made it over. That was the best part, snorkeling wasn’t as good, the boat was wooden from way back (British navy), and most of that was gone, just a mast and anchor chain. That night I decided to hit the docks and try to score some fish. Just hangin with the guys from the night before, talking shit, (I asked earlier about getting some, but no response) but one of the guys asks why they kept one (about a 10 pound tuna). I said “I’ll take it,” “It’s yours” and he handed me the knife. Great, I start filleting, and another guy laughs and grabs it and slices it up for me. I also scored the mahi, and we were loaded with fish!! Fresh tuna, sushi, and mahi grilled to perfection.
Conception Island, Bahamas
Of course, on our way to Conception, we catch a snapper and a runner. We could actually see the fish following Bob’s green and yellow luer.
Conception Island is amazing. There are huge coral heads, growing 20 feet from the sand bottom. And the inside of the island is mangrove swamp that mostly dries at low tide. We went in, to be greeted by a large nurse shark that hangs at the entrance. It was low tide, so we walked a little, later, we dingied and rowed through the channels of shallow water. Seeing barracuda, snapper, and nurse sharks along the way. And of course, on our next passage, big Mahi!! Ed was fighting hard with the hand line, and we landed a 4 footer.
Some great civiche (or bait to Bob)…
Georgetown, and I’m starting to get the hang of eyeball navigation. Our charts were not that good, so just using guidebooks and the color of the water, we managed to make our way into the Exumas.
Exumas, Bahamas
The Exumas are beautiful little islands, often with water only 2 or 3 ft. deep. Needless to say, for a boat, it is a place only to travel during daytime. So, everyday we would sail for a few hours and stop at a new island. Lots of nice beaches.
We met my parents at Staniel Cay, which has one of the most amazing snorkeling caves in the world. Thunderball Cave, used in a James Bond movie, has magnificent colorful corals and sponges, along with all sizes and colors of fish. (and also a strong current, which would either push you in one side and out the other) We even saw two large nurse sharks who did not like it when Ed went down to get his picture with them. Ed was far behind me the next time I saw him…
Some good fresh bread and we were off, more beautiful islands, and Shroud Cay, which had river running through it, only possible at high tide, and beautiful beaches, more snorkeling, etc. For the next few days, and into Nassau, dropped my parents off. Checked out the Atlantis casino, and some of downtown. Ate some crack conch, and we move on out to Bird Island, Chub, and then a long sail to Gun. We left at 3:30 AM and arrived at 7:00 PM. Just before a squall, the anchor jams… (this is after a boat that we were anchored kinda close to made a comment) Well, no way to get it down, so quickly, Bob and I get the other anchor and chain ready, and drop it into good sand just before the squall. Then we saw the boat that made the comment motor past us in the rain, and anchor out in the good sand. Instant Karma.
Ft Lauderdale, FL
West winds, unusual for this time of year, and the wrong way for us, but I have engines, so we chill and snorkel for the day (we saw a big spotted eagle ray) and go pushed around by strong currents. Headed out at 12 AM. Motors on, banging along, we arrived at 10:30 AM, pulling into the biggest, richest area I’ve been (Ft. Lauderdale, the “Venice of America” or full of huge houses, and heathen motor boats, lining the canals). We got on a mooring (costs $20 a night, but that is cheap for around hear) and I get free internet. Cleared in easily, smuggling in my 6 cases of wine and 4 surfboards… It was my birthday, so we went out, got drunk on 5 dollar pitcher, and later saw some live music and hung on Ft. Lauderdale beach. Bob and Ed were off in the morning, and now I’m getting my boat ready to sell, and moving off etc…
I’ll be in Colorado soon, and then heading to Wisconsin for the Phish shows (on the 18th of July).
Lots of love to you all!!
Seth :)