Sauce Chef's Section


Espagnole Sauce: A basic brown sauce, which is used as a basis for a large number of derivative brown sauces (Robert, genevoise, bordelaise, Bercy, Madeira, Périgueuux, etc.). It is made with a brown stock to which a brown roux and a mirepoix are added, followed by a tomato purée. Cooking takes serveral hours and the sauce needs to be skimmed, stirred and strained when a particular stage in the cooking is reached. the meat stock may be replaced by a fish stock, depending on the requirements of the particular recipe. Carême's recipe is considered to be the classic method of preparing an espagnole sauce. Nowadays, a shoulder of veal is used instead of a noix and partridge is not used in the stock.

Espagnole Sauce (from Carême's recipe) Take a deep saucepan. Put in 2 slices of Bayonne ham. Place on top a noix of veal and 2 partridges. Add enough stock to cover the veal only. Boil down the liquid rapidly. Move the pan to a cooler part of the stove to extract all the juices from the contents. When the stock is reduced to a coating on the bottom of the pan, remove it from the stove. Prick the noix of veal with the point of a knife so that its juices mingles with the essence. Put the saucepan back on the stove on a low heat and leave for about 20 minutes. Watch the essence as it gradually turns darker.

To simplify this operation, scrap off a little of the essence with the point of a knife. Roll it between the finger. If it rolls into a ball, the essence is perfectly reduced. If it is not, it will stick the fingers together.

Remove the saucepan from the stove and put it aside for 15 minutes for the essence to cool. It will the dissolve more readily. Fill the sauce pan with clear soup or stock ans heat very slowly. As soon as it comes to a boil, skim it anf pour 2 ladles into a roux.

For the preparation of this roux, melt a 1/2 cup of butter and add it to enough sieved flour to make a rather liquid roux. Put it on a low heat, stirring from time to time so that little by little the whole of the mixture turns golden in colour. When adding the liquid, do not forget that the roux must not be on the stove while you are mixing in the first spoonfuls of stock; but it should be put on afterwards, so that it may be added boiling hot to the rest of the stock.

When the 2 laddles of stock are poured into the roux, stir as to make the mixture perfectly smooth. now pour it into the saucepan with the veal noix. Add parsley and spring onions (scallions), season with half a bay leaf, a little thyme, 2 chives and mushroom trimmings. Leave to simmer, stirring frequently. After a full hour skim off the fat. 30 minutes later skim off the fat again.

Strain through a cheesecloth into a bowl, stirring from time to time with a wooden spoon so that no skin forms on the surface, as easily happens when the sauce is exposed to the air.

[Diable] [Bordelaise] [Madeira] [Hunter's] [Robert]

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