Crabmeat is fine and delicate, although removing the meat, especially from the legs, is a painstaking and time consuming operation. The dark meat from the body cavity is particularly good spread on buttered rye bread.
The four main species eaten in France are the spiny spider crab, with a spiny forward pointing shell; the tourteau (common edible crab), which is large, has a well developed pair of pincers and can weigh up to 5 kg (11 Lbs.); the shore (or green shore) crab, which measaures only 8 to 10 cm (3 to 4 inches) across; and the velvet (or swimming) crab, which has an almost square shell and webbed legs.
Crabs live on sheltered coasts where vegetation grows, although the tourteau prefers more rocky or shingly sea beds. they should be purchased live and should be heavy and plump; a sign of plumpness is when the abdomen ("tail") , tucked under the shell, is slightly lifted.
Some fishmongers sell crabs already cooked and only the common edible crab can be stuffed. it can also be cooked in a court bouillon and eaten cold with mayonnaise; in Saint-Malo it is served shelled, with mayonnaise and quartered hard-boiled (hard-cooked) eggs. crabs are served with special tongs and eaten using thin forks with two prongs; finger bowls should be provided. Small are used for soups, bisques and coulis. One can also buy canned crabmeat (shredded or in pieces), the best of which is imported from Russia.
