GEARBOX INSTALLATION
         
         To remove the steering box from the vehicle is for the most part very similar in
         most applications. You must first remove the bolt from coupler that couples the
         intermediate shaft to the input shaft of the steering box. Then remove the lines from
         the steering gear (in some vehicles it is easier to just loosen the lines while the gear is
         still mounted and then remove the lines after the gear is unbolted from the chassis).
         Next remove the tie rod end from the pitman arm. Remove the cotter key and nut
         retaining the tie rod end. Then by using a tie rod puller, separate the end from the
         pitman arm. Next remove the nut that retains the pitman arm to the sector shaft of the
         gear, and then use a pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm. Now you can
         remove the mount bolts that retain the gearbox in the chassis. On some vehicles you
         must remove the steering gear with the mount brackets attached and then remove the
         mount brackets once the gear is on the bench. As you are removing the gear, you can
         then disconect the intermediate shaft coupler from the input shaft of the gearbox.
         You might have to use a mallet and tap on the coupler to get it to slide off of the input
         shaft. Some vehicles uses bell type coupler; this coupler can actually be separated
         and damaged if pulled on while removing.
          While you have the steering disassembled to this point, it is a good time to
         examine your intermediate shaft for wear and damage. AGR highly recommends
         installing a Heavy Duty Borgeaon or Flaming River intermediate shaft for all off-road
         applications. The nice thing about the aftermarket intermediate shafts is that that they
         will collapse, this means you can remove or install them with out removing the
         steering gear nd they can also be indexed to any position to help align your steering
         wheel spoke. The O.E. intermediate shaft is designed to collapse only when there has
         been impact. Also inspect the frame and mount brackets for cracks or damage.
         Inspect power steering hoses for damage. AGR highly recommends new hoses on
         every steering system; most hose damage is within the hose and cannot be detected
         with a visual inspection. This damage would be detrimental with the increased flow
         and pressure sustained in the new system.
         For the most part the installation of the new gear is the reverse of the removal
         process. One of the more important things to watch when installing a new gearbox is
         to make sure your steering box coupler is aligned properly when sliding it back over
         the input shaft of the gearbox. All mount bolts should be installed with locking
         washers and grade 8 or O.E. hardware. The O.E. hardware should be sufficient unless
         damaged, but AGR highly recommends new grade 8 hardware. The pitman arm can
         only be installed in four different positions, if you have installed it in the wrong
         position it is going to be pretty obvious. Torque the pitman arm retaining nut to 180
         foot pounds (easier to do once gearbox is mounted) and be sure to use a lock washer.
         Reattach the power steering hoses to pump and gearbox. It is recommended that a
         power steering fluid cooler be used in all extreme duty applications. If a cooler were
         being installed, this would be a good time to do so. If not using new hoses, the O-rings
         on the metric type fittings should be replaced. The flared tube ends of SAEL type hoses
         should also be examined and the hose replaced if there is damage. Something to keep
         in mind is that air can be sucked into a hydraulic system around a connection and not
         leak hydraulic fluid. Air in a power Steering system will burn up a power steering 
         pump in a short amount of time and will produce a very annoying whine. So make
         sure all hose connections are sealed well (and don’t use pipe dope or Teflon tape).
         Once the gearbox is in place and everything is reattached, inspect around the sides
         of the case and be sure that there is nothing pressing up around the cylinder walls of
         the gearbox. There might be some installations when a mount bracket will press in on
         the cylinder wall of the gearbox when the mount bolts are tightened. This can prevent
         the piston from moving within the gearbox. If this is the case, correct the clearance
         problem before going forward with the installation. Jack up the front of the vehicle
         and be sure that when you turn the steering wheel from full lock to lock, it turns
         freely. You will feel a little tightness as you go pass center (wheels straight ahead)
         when turning from full lock-to-lock, this is normal when properly adjusted. If
         everything checks out, move onto mounting the rock ram cylinder.
         
         YOU MUST FOLLOW THE ATTACHED BLEEDING PROCEDURES TO
             THE LETTER OR THE WARRANTY IS NULL AND VOID.