| House Training |
 |
|
| It is an undeniable fact that puppies need to eliminate. The frustrating part is the communication barrier as well as the lack of understanding about where and when it is appropriate to eliminate. Puppies come to us with the simple motto: "If I have to, then I'll do it." This pertains to eating, sleeping (ever see a pup fall over asleep in mid-play?), activity, exploration AND elimination! Puppies do not understand anything more than that. It is up to us to establish a bridge of understanding if they are to live with us harmoniously. We are the ones with all the requirements, not them! They'd be just as happy to take care of their needs the way they already know. |
| If your puppy cries or whines in the crate, (or soon after a meal or drink. Assume she has to go potty! If you take care of that and she still whines, then quiet her or ignore her. The most successful potty training methods consist of four key elements: 1. Confinement 2. Training 3. Timing 4. Praise Stop water intake about 6PM - this will help the puppy sleep through the night without waking you up to go outside. Do not feed the puppy after 5:30 PM ALL ACTIVITIES MUST START WITH A PEE OR POO - OR BOTH! ANYTIME OUTSIDE (even if you have a fenced-in yard) TO GO POTTY, YOUR PUPPY SHOULD BE ON A LEASH! This makes it easier to train the puppy to eliminate in one place ratehr than all over the yard. The most reliable housebreaking happens when you can praise EVERY TIME - WHEN IT IS HAPPENING!) Teach your puppy WORDS for elimination. It makes it so much faster We found "Be Quick" a good way. Not too many words, Not something you are likely to say for any other reason. Puppies (or dogs who don't yet understand where it is appropriate to eliminate) need to be confined in order to facilitate the easiest potty training. The BEST and most effective place to confine is in a crate or cage. At this point don't leave anything on the bottom of the crate (blanket, newspaper, etc.). Puppy will make a project out of destroying it. Dogs do NOT want to eliminate where they live, therefore the crate needs to be just large enough for puppy to turn around and lay down. Anything larger will encourage a puppy to eliminate at one end and sleep in the other. For those puppies who will grow quite a bit larger, use a crate that is sized for an adult and partition it to a smaller size using a homemade insert or a crate insert made by the crate company to fit your crate. This is especially helpful for over night training! When I teach a dog (or puppy) where to eliminate, I ALWAYS use a leash. Leashes keep your dog close to you, where you can supervise and control everything that happens. Puppies, especially, are easily distracted. A blowing leaf, new flower, stick, another animal - all can take a puppy's mind off the matter at hand. If you are near the puppy (or dog) with the leash in hand, a gentle tug will redirect away from the curiosity. Leashes are also good to help teach an AREA to eliminate (behind the garage, etc.). With a leash, you just take the dog there every time. I also teach words for elimination. This way, when the puppy understands what the words mean, he will understand WHAT I want as well as WHEN I want it to happen. My words are "Be Quick" for both tasks. Your choice can be ANY word or phrase you want to use consistently (such as, "hurry up", "do your business", "get busy", "let's go", "tinkles", etc.). Remember when you choose your word or phrase that you will be repeating it A LOT! And keep it one to two words max. As I take my dog outside on a leash, I start to teach him the word "OUTSIDE". "Let's go OUTSIDE!". "Do you have to go "OUTSIDE"? "OUTSIDE! OUTSIDE!" In time, the dog will learn that the word OUTSIDE is associated with elimination. Eventually you will be able to ask the dog "do you have to go OUTSIDE?" and get a response like barking, running to the door.or tail wagging. If the puppy, is not used to his leash yet. Pick him up and carry him outside and place him where you want him/her to go. This is especially necessary first thing in the morning. If not the puppy will do his business as soon as he is outside the crate/cage area. Again saying the entire time, Let's go outside, Do you want to Outside. Soon as the puppy is on the ground then change to your words you will use for him to eliminate. "Be Quick" Go Potty" whatever you like. Regain his attention after each distraction. (Car, people, leaves blowing,..rain) falling. By repeating your command words. Not in a harsh manner, or reprimanding voice. Just reminding. Once the elimantion has begun, LOTS of praise. Not necessarily by way of treat. Verbal praise can be just as effective. And will not upset the puppies diet in any way. Praise must be while puppy is eliminating. Not after. Make sure that the puppy is truly finished before you re enter the house. Most puppies urinate first then find another spot for deficating. Be patient. Puppies (and dogs) earn freedom by eliminating appropriately. The best time for a puppy to be out of his crate is AFTER eliminating appropriately outside. This free time will still need to be strictly supervised, so any inclination toward inappropriate elimination can be immediately addressed. Baby gates are great for limiting a puppy's area of freedom. A short, inexpensive leash (4ft or so) attached to the puppy's collar (ALWAYS SUPERVISED, of course) works well and enables the owner to catch a quick puppy without grabbing for him (which, ultimately, can create a fearful dog). This works well when he needs to be corrected for inappropriate behaviors like chewing, eating things, digging or eliminating indoors. |