"Romanian traffic"
Turkish Delight

This is the sound of someone losing the plot,
Making out that they're ok when they're not,
You�re going to like it, but not a lot,
And the chorus goes like this:

It was our first night in Istanbul, and we were exploring the old city.� The waiter of a fashionable restaurant came out onto the street and introduced himself.� �Where are you from?� Really?� I have a cousin there.� Why don�t you come in and have a meal friend?� For you, a 10% discount.�

This scenario was repeated time and time again.� How great it was to have service again.� I would have stopped and ate at every single restaurant if only I was hungry.� �Sorry we have just eaten.�

�No Problem friend, here take my business card, and come back tomorrow.�� We proceeded on our expedition of the old city.� Down a cobbled street, passed a small bazaar, and into a dark tunnel.� At the other end, in all its� glory stood the Blue Mosque.� Six minarets towering above the city, illuminated by giant floodlights.� We stood there alone, quiet, admiring the beauty of the 6th century.

This is more beautiful than Disney.
Mayara Davalos � Ecuadorian Trainee.

Previously at the Istanbul airport we stood at the arrivals bay and stared at the big board above the VISA desk.

Segmenting the Market - Turkish Style

VISA GUY: Where are you from?
KEVIN: I'm from the States.
VISA GUY:� The States?� You need a Visa, $45.
ME: I'm from Australia.
VISA GUY: Australia?� You need a Visa, $20.
KEVIN: How come he gets to pay less than me?
VISA GUY: He�s from Australia; he is very, very poor.
ME: She is from Ecuador
VISA GUY: Ecuador?� You don't need a Visa.

Later... in a Turkish nightclub, Kevin and I didn't hesitate to pay a 1,000,000 Lira for a pint of Efes, as we watched a belly dancer, and discussed the beauty of the sites we had seen the day before: Hagi Sofia, the Grand Bazaar, and crossing the Bosphorus into Asia.� Kevin left to the bathroom I thought I sparked up a conversation with a Japanese man sitting directly to my left.

ME: So what brings you to Turkey?� The belly dancers?
JAPANESE GUY: No�my friends and I have just started backpacking around Europe�yada, yada, yada.
ME: Yada, yada, yada�I would love to visit Japan one day, but I can�t speak the language.� All I know is �Konichiwa� and �Chin Chin�.


I raised my glass and ceremoniously clinked it against his.� My new friend seemed a little confused.

JAPANESE GUY: In what language does �Chin Chin� mean, �Cheers�?
ME: Japanese of course.� Doesn�t it?� Why what does �Chin Chin� mean?


My new friend shyly raised his hand and made a little gap between his forefinger and thumb.

JAPANESE GUY: In Japanese �Chin Chin� means�. it means.�small penis.


So now you know the words to my song,
Pretty soon you'll all be singing along,
When you�re sad, when you're lonely, when it all turns our wrong,
Then you've got this:


As I stepped out of the Bucharest Airport a child asked me for money.� The apartment blocks were still abandoned and a lifeless gray.� I left Kevin at the student accommodation and walked passed a huge pile of garbage situated between two crumbling apartments.� The smell was enough to make me vomit, but there wasn't enough time.� I pack of stray dogs came out of the filth and surrounded me.� I took my backpack off my shoulders and waved it in front of my legs slowly walking backwards towards the main street.


In my country we would have built a smaller house and saved some money for garbage bins.
Sjors Van de Rijt - Dutch Ambassador


After hearing a dozen offers from AIESEC�ers willing to take us to a football match, Kevin and I were left waiting at the office on our own.� After a serious discussion we decided to risk our lives and attend the Liverpool � Rapid match on our own.� I left my watch, mobile, VISA and passport in my apartment, and filled my wallet with a minimal amount of cash and my Health Insurance card.� At the stadium we agreed that we wouldn�t speak until we felt comfortable.� I lead the charge by asking a policeman where we can get tickets.� The officer immediately got on his walkie-talkie, �Engleza, Engleza,� and gave us a police escort to the ticketing booth.� Once inside we asked another officer complete with riot gear, where we should sit.� He directed us to the center of the Liverpool section and returned to his place in the dividing line.� As the football hooligans surrounding us bursted into the chorus of �You will never walk alone� we both switched sides and started supporting Liverpool.


Liverpool 1 : 0 Rapid


After the match we were asked to remain seated until the Rapid fans had left the stadium.� At that point we were escorted onto ambassador buses and given a final police escort into the center of the city.� Inside the bus drunk talk, football anthems and the smell of marijuana filled the air.

Segmenting the Market - Romanian Style

During my four months here I haven't became an expert at the Romanian language, but I can understand a little.� And when it comes to beer and prices I am basically fluent.� As the ambassador bus stopped a hundred English football fans, Kevin and I pilled onto the terrace of Planet Diner.� I was one of the first to visit the bar.

ME (in English):� I'll have two beers thanks.
BAR OWNER (in English):� No problem.
BARMAID (in Romanian):� How much are we charging for the beer?
BAR OWNER (in Romanian):� 30000 if they are English.
ME (in English):� Bullshit!� You're charging us more because we are speaking in English.
BAR OWNER (Internal Dialogue):� Fuck!� Busted.
BAR OWNER (in English):� No, you misunderstood.� I said 30000 for everyone including the English.
ME (in English):� No, way!� I know what you said!� I'm not even English!� I'm Australian!� I'm not with them! I am a resident here!� Bla bla, bla bla, bla!
BAR OWNER (in English):� It doesn't matter 300000 for everyone.


On the way home I was approached by two pimps within a matter of minutes.� "You're English aren't you?� You're here to see the football.� I have got some very beautiful girls for you.� Very clean.� Very, very clean girls.� $80.� But for you friend.� $200, for two girls at once."� I told both of them that I was flattered, but not really interested and directed them to Planet Diner where the rest of my "English" mates were.


At the Aiesec Big Picture in front of 600 people:

ME: Kevin, what do you like most about Romania?
KEVIN: Cheap women and beautiful beer....oh, shit....I mean....Beautiful women and cheap beer.



Do you go to the country?
It isn't very far,
The people there won't hurt you,
Because of who you are.
Blur.


Driving through Transylvania in a clapped out Dacia, listening to the same tape over and over again, with two people who are fast becoming my best friends.� The conversation changed from jokes, to school stories, the, and casual obserservations that we made about the people in the club the night before.� The mountains rose out of the road, as we blindly wound around the corners on a road built only for one.

Deja Vu

Wait a second.� Didn't I do this last year?� Or was that the French Alps with Kat and Annie?� The scenario feels exactly the same, either way I love it.� Shame I have to work tomorrow.


I just stumbled back from Terminus, it is around midnight.� The hot water in my apartment hasn't been working for the entire week and I haven't had a shower in 5 days.� I turn on the tap in anticipation, and hear a "Gurgle...gurgle...gurgle."� This is an incredibly positive sign.� I stare anxiously at the taps like a child at his gifts on Christmas morning.� Suddenly a pile of disgusting red shit hit the bottom of the bath.� I let it run for several minutes and watch the water change from red, to black, to brown and finally, clear.� I roll up my sleeves, pull out the disinfectant and began to clean my tub.� Tomorow I have to lead a presentation in front of 600 people promoting the benefits of an Aiesec exchange.� What am I going to say?


A candidate for the position of Sales Executive was 20 minutes late to the job interview, but she still got the job.� For fucks sake, even the two minute noodles take 3 minutes.


Last week a very good friend, a smart guy, one of the few Romanians I trust, said to me:

"It's not going to happen like you think.� You can't change the way people think.� Look around you.� These people are going to change anything.� When change does occur it will be from outside forces pushing in.� Not from the inside pushing out."

Perhaps he is right.� Maybe I can't make a difference.� I would like to think I could.� But I am not willing to commitment the next ten years of my life to Romania, for there is a lot of the world to see and barely enough time to see it.

Until the end.
Lemon Car
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