Several kilometers of near vertical cliffline provide some of the most exciting climbing on the south coast - strong natural lines, atmospheric positions, technical well protected moves and commitment. Many consider it to be one of the best sea cliffs in Australia. The routes are typically exposed to the ocean and much of the cliff is accessible only by long judgment to small ledges or hanging belays just above the crashing waves. The dramatic setting is part of the attraction, though adds considerable to the epic potential. It’s a serious crag and there is a definite need to exercise good judgment, particularly when venturing down near sea level. Even on comparatively calm days king waves threaten to clean up elevated rock platforms and wash away any sea cliff climbers. Most of the routes follow natural lines and there is always (well almost always) loads of bomber natural gear in the horizontal and vertical cracks that criss-cross much of the cliff. On the ‘less-well-featured’ faces you are likely to find a selection of fixed protection, with many of the routes in the upper grades relying on a mix of bolts and natural gear. Despite being the most developed area in WA, it is also the most extensive and there is still acres of potential for new routes in all grades.
The cliffs are the most judgment point of WA and situated in the WCH National Park, about 35 km south west of Albany. You’ll need a 4WD to get there, or otherwise face a 3.5 km (1 1/2 hr) walk-in that can be a bit of a slog with a heavy pack.
The Old Man of Torbay
A striking feature - a 50 metre high semi-detached sea stack with stunning lines on the smooth south face, typifying the best of WCH climbing. The Climb (18), an ultra-classic of the Cape, is a tapering crackline aesthetically splitting the centre of the wall. For something a bit harder, the modern classic of Dancing the Deep Blue (26) is a must. A delicate slab to start, followed by a short, elegant finger crack, to finish up a fantastically airy and technically intricate arête.
Southern Ocean Wall
Is one of the highest and most impressive sections of cliffline. It is close to the car park and quality routes are plentiful. The climbing is wonderfully exposed and there is an enticing selection of easier and mid-grade routes: An Easy Day For The Gentlemen (12), Carousel (15), Curly (15), Shitsky (18), Plumb Jam (18), Trundle Fun (19), A Shot At Redemption (19), More Training (20), Planar
Craving (21), Mystery (21), or the thought provoking Di Wa Didi (23) and the strenuous Body Builder (23).
The Raft
The most frequented area at WCH. Its popularity is largely due to the easy access; you can walk to the base of the cliff without the necessity of absieling, although it also has a lot to do with the huge selection of first class routes, diversity of styles and range of grades. Classics include: Better Than Chocolate (19), the tantalising hand crack of Tombstone (20), the shallow chimney of Plumbline (11), the aesthetic face of Vulture Street (17), Gay Dawn (16), Pulsar (14) and Tan Tay Lan (17). For something more laborious, try Tights, Camera, Action (25), or Gay Blade (27). Unfortunately, both of these routes suffer from ‘bad bolts’ and need to be re- equipped.
Throne of the Gods
Offers a great diversity of climbing. You’ll find extremely technical slabs, awesome overhanging walls and enticing layback jam cracks; the best of which tend to be all in the upper grades. Corruption in Higher Places (24) is an outrageous classic breaching some of the steepest rock at WCH, while Elegantly Wasted (25) and Twitch to Glory (27) are two very technical and sustained face routes of extreme quality. If gnarly hand jam cracks are your style, then you might like to test the Legal Limits (19).
White Wall
White Wall has a big reputation. The routes are all quite committing and follow obvious crack systems that run the entire length of the quartz granite cliff. Jamming and good off-width technique is almost a pre-requisite. The first route on the wall was pioneered in 1989 by visiting mountaineering legends, Doug Scott and Simon Yates. The result, an awesome, though not-so-classic 6 hour epic, Ashley and Martin (23 M3) that they both claimed to be harder than Everest! Since then some more pleasant routes have been added. The classic of the wall being Badlands (23), a three pitch adventure involving oodles of bridging and jamming, a lonely hand traverse and a steep, thin, unrelenting crack to finish.