Peak Head

The ‘show piece’ of Albany climbing, this magnificent granite dome rises 120 meters abruptly out of the southern ocean and stands as a prominent feature (a boiled egg) on the Torndirrup coastline. It is situated in a less visited section of the National Park and is well away from any tourist haunts. A scenic one hour walk following a marked trail leads you to the crag. There is a unique wilderness-come-adventure atmosphere and the area boasts the most elegant of jamming/layback cracks and superb technical face climbing. The routes are long and many are multi-pitch affairs involving a certain degree of commitment and good judgment. The rock is superb - clean, compact and with outstanding friction. The protection is generally adequate, though be prepared to run it out on some routes. There are also a number of bolted routes, particularly on the west face (placed before the establishment of the Adventure Climbing Zone). These are old and many require hangers. The classics here can be considered ‘world class’. On the West Face, Layers Of Grooviness (19) is a popular and varied face route; White Witches on the Cross (22) a powerful, bold line with long reaches and runouts; and Baylac Direct (18) must be three pitches of the best crack climbing in the State. Classics on the more exposed South Face include the immensely popular Albatross (15), and the big 120 meter long lines of Power Of The Old Land (21) and On the Lee Side Direct (17).

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