North West Bay


Snowdrop 92m (11)
A steep interesting climb starting from Prick'll traverse and following the rightward trending gully with a long slab on its right. Start about 20m right of "Easter Gully" at obvious point of weakness leading to ledge about 12m up. Marked "S"
I) 12m short rib to crack in small overhang then easy traverse left to belay ledge.
II)12m The steep little corner wall on the right leads to base of large slab forming right wall of gully line.
III)27m up a few feet, then traverse right along boot wide crack about 10m. Straight up to exit which is loose and safer turned by an exposed semi-hand traverse from the right. Up a gully to tree or block belay at 10m
IV) 25m continue up gully and east ground to base of final head wall.
V) 16m rising traverse left, starting 3m left of chimney, leads to final groove in rib which is followed to top.

Abofact 111m (12)
Start at the obvious overhanging crack about 5m left of "Snowdrop".
I) 24m the crack. Belay off line to left below next steep section.
II) 30m continue up crack to easier ground, then move right to gain shallow groove with quartz marked slab as right wall. Up slab and belay from large block on left.
III) 30m Continue up groove to overhang which is turned on right, then up arete to easier ground.
IV) 27m Straight up over small overhangs and bush to top.

Lady Burp 75m (12)
On "Prick'll Traverse" just right of "Easter Gully" is a steep bush rake leading right. Start about midway between this and the vertical crack of "Abofact".
I) 15m Follow rightward trending crack to skyline. Interesting moves to turn overhang then easily up to belay on bushy on bushy rake.
II) 18m Cross rake and climb broken wall behind trending slightly left. Belay on semi-detached pinnacle on left (as for "Easter Gully")
III) 12m delicate moves up short exposed wall on right. Continue diagonally right then walk right along ledge to base of chimney.
IV) Up chimney and over chockstone to bushy terrace.
V) 21m easier climbing to summit plateau.

The Merry Muscateers 198m (11)
Start about 20m up bushy gully from "Easter Gully" a short steep bushy crack.
I) 25m up crack onto face then up wall to crack which is climbed to ledge with small tree.
II) 25m turn overhang on right then bush bash to base of orange buttress diagonally right.
III) 27m Broken gully up left edge of buttress to platform below steep little corner and overhangs.
IV) 27m up corner, turn overhangs on left then up middle of jig-saw wall to belay on P.T. Continuation - on upper tier note high up deep overhanging chimney with large chimney about 15m to right - climb takes left hand chimney approaching up broken rip on its right.
V) 30m up right side of small detached buttress to right of obvious bushy gully. Straight up to large tree beneath chimney.
VI) 24m squeeze into chimney and up to roof exit right and round to ledge beneath steep corner.
VII) 12m finish up headwall.

Easter Gully 193m (16)
Historically the most elusive climb in the Stirlings. Pleasant, airy and if "The Nose" is climbed direct, possibly the finest pitch on Bluff Knoll. Start just above water course and directly below "The Nose" on Prick'll Traverse.
I) 18m up to stance below overhanging band.
II) 30m turn overhang at obvious point of weakness on left. The trend back right up walls to large bushy ledge.
III) 34m walls to belay beneath "The Nose".
IV)15m "The Nose" direct, entered from tight of left.
V) 30m short wall and grassy ledge leads to foot of "Easter Gully". Climb "A" shaped wall about 3m left of gully foot, continue 5m then traverse right into gully above bushes.
VI) 27m ascend righthand wall close to gully then traverse right below overhang and to belay point.
VII) 30m east climbing up staircase.
VIII) 9m traverse left the n up gully to right and walk to top.

Middle Line 91m (7)
The obvious line, visible from car park running straight up middle of bay to finish in small notch on skyline. Start just above water course and directly below "The Nose" on Prick'll Traverse

Charlies Dog 165m (11)
An interesting line straight up the face. Start below obvious deep crack about 15m before chimney with large grey chockstone.
I) 6m short groove to cave beneath crack.
II) 27m The crack then its left edge to cave.
III) 12m Exit cave by crack on right or more easily by right wall. (Easier the further right you go).
IV) 15m Shallow vertically quartz stained grooves a few meters to left along Cock'll Traverse.
V) 15m up crack and belay at edge after escaping to left. Beware of loose rick. Several meters to the right is another obvious corner/crack in the steep wall.
VII) 21m Clean rock to bushy ledge. Crack on right to belay beneath overhanging wall.
VIII) 18m wall above stance to top of pinnacle
IX) 21m Steep wall above shallow chimney on right. Cross bush and belay under roof.
X) 15m Turn roof on left and continue to summit plateau.

Bills Climb 100m (11)
Start 5m left of Charlies Dog. Climb follows obvious crack up middle of small buttress.
I) 30m Crack then bushy gully and slightly overhanging crack to belay ledge.
II) 25m Thin crack over small roof, then vague ribs avoiding bushy gullies on either side. Belay on Cock'll Traverse.
III) 30m A few meters left along Traverse is wet slimy corner - (Presumably mossy most of the year). Follow this to ledge in left wall at 6m (possible escape route left along ledge)l Step back into corner and follow loose holds up wall to final crack and easy finish.
IV) 15m Up corner then wall to Prick'll Traverse.

Folly 112m (11)
The line which follows the next major groove to the right of Cornerstone.
Start and Pitch (I) - As for Cornerstone.
II) 34m up bushy pitch then scramble along bushy ramp to right for about 20m
III) 27m Broken walls and ledges to obvious corner. Up corner for 6m to poor belays on ledge on left.
IV) 21m(crux) Follow groove and crack past chockstones then straight up to belay beneath overhanging band.
V) 30m Overhang direct. or more easily on left. Then pick a line to summit plateau.

Cornerstone 132m (11)
An excellent climb in a superb position. Approach - A variety of routes ranging form scrambling to serious roped climbing led to Prick'll Traverse. An excellent start is the first half of Right Anticlimax, which brings you out directly below the start of the second half on Prick'll Traverse. Another start is up plat first large (grey) chockstone, walk along to left then up via a white chockstone (rope move). Above white chockstone to top of gully then right and up first corner. Right buttress and return to gully which is followed until wall on right eases to slabs. Scramble to cairn where terraces crosses N. Ridge. There are two very pleasant long pitches up steep grey wall to right of white chockstone - pick your line. Or alternatively - approach via Prick'll Traverse - painful!
I) 30m Enter gully from right - turn large chockstone on right. Bushy section up gully with short, steep walls to large stance below wall on left of main gully.
II) 20m up groove, past chockstone at 12m ledge.
III) 13m Continue up groove (crux)
IV) 60-70m scrambling with short grade 7 walls to summit plateau.

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