Main North Face of Bluff Knoll


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The most impressive face in the Range. An almost unbroken sweep of rock falling (which it frequently does when tourist are on the summit) 300m from the summit plateau. The face to date boasts only three grade 17 climbs and one grade 19, leaving plenty of scope for future development.

Even the easier climbs are serious propositions with no easy means of escape - in most cases NO means of escape, and should be tack led only by competent parties, preferably two to a rope. A full day's climbing should be allowed for, and a keen eye kept on weather conditions. Most climbs face the sun all day so sufficient water should be carried.

The Quaker 123m 10
Start at the point of N. Ridge and follow track down left to lowest point of small buttress where, on turning the corner, the Main Face comes into view.
I)27m Somewhat delicately up wall on right then into bushy crack on left which is followed to large right sloping bushy ramp with obvious belay block.
II) 31m Pull up onto wall above belay and move left then up to corner.
III)34m (crux) Starts beneath obvious crack, but traverse left a few meters then up shallow groove.Trending back right. Continue up to wall and traverse right behind small trees and up gully to obvious split. Take direct right crack to belay platform.
IV)31m easy climbing rightward, then traversing right under overhang and exit to Prick'll Traverse. Continue up right Anticlimbax, cornerstone, Folly, or walk off along Prick'll Traverse.

The Chopper 90m 8
Start - as for right Anticlimbax.
I) 40m Wall immediately left of bushy gully to long ledge beneath short wall. Belay on right in corner.
II) 40m Up corner then straight up wall, keeping to left of gully to tree belays below overhang.
III) 20m Up obvious corners over loose blocks then easily out left and onto Prick'll traverse. Finish as for The Quaker

Right Anti-climax 240m 15
An excellent route up the right end of the Main Face. Start - Prominent gully at right hand end of Main Face.
I) 25m Left wall of gully. At 20m move right and up steeply sloping ledge to belay at its top.
II) 38m exposed and fairly thin wall to emerge at large ledge with corner on its right.
III) 40m Up steep wall behind ledge and so to Prick'll Traverse.
The line above Prick'll Traverse follows the next shallow but obvious groove about 20m to the left of cornerstone.
IV) 16m (crux) Gain entry by traversing left along upward sloping ledge. Which starts about 10m to right of line. At left and descend slightly, moving left across shallow sentry box, then up to a good runner. Right and up to stance.
V) 24m Up and right to foot of right-angled corner. More easily to grassy stance.
VI) Straight to top

devils Nose 253m 17
Star as for Hell Fire Gully. First section is up to pitch (VI) of Hell Fire Gully. The devils Nose then follows the continuation of the gully, whilst H.P.G. Traverses out to the left.
VII) 18m continue up ramp to the right. Belay below bulge on right.
VIII) 18m 18m Back onto tamp and continue up to skyline and around corner to ledge.
IX) 30m (crux) Up wall behind ledge to small ledge on left, then up right to overhanging corner above belay ledge. Out right to stand on small nose. Up overhanging above (protection peg in situ) and up steep wall above to good belay on left of gully.
X) 38m Easiest way up gully to top.

Long Bay Wall 245m 14
Start between right Anticlimax and Dell Fire Gully is a small buttress sticking out, vegetated on top. Climb to top and start near its left edge.
I) 40m Up crack between quartz sections then left into gully. Up gully a few meters then traverse right and up beneath overhangs. Along right sloping ramp, up groove further right then up left to belay tree.
II) 20m Follow crack up right to overhangs, through these then up right to tree belay.
III) 35m Back left to above crack exit. Straight up for 5m then up left to smooth slab. Traverse right to broken blocks. Up 2m then right to gully then up to belay on Prick'll Traverse, or straight up to Prick'll Traverse from broken blocks (unprotected)
IV) Move 5m left along Prick'll Traverse to belay on large blocks at foot of wall.
30m Up right slanting vegetated ledge/crack then straight up quartz section for about 10m (protection peg with crab above quartz). Traverse left 3m to corner, climb corner then up left to belay alcove (hell Fire Gully).
V) 45m Move right from belay the up crack passing left of overhang (Hell Fire Gully). Where crack becomes corner traverse right around arete. Continue across to base of right sloping ramp then up to tree belay.
VI) 35m From dead tree on right, climb up trending left then follow line of weakness to good corner belay.
VII) 40m Traverse right 6m around arete then up into corner that trends slightly left. Follow this to good belay ledge.
VIII) 40m Up right trending groove then straight up to top.

Hell Fire Gully 254m 14
A superb line up the Centre of the Main Face, finishing at the summit. Start of the right of the gully at foot of tower leaning against face. I) 35m Right side of gully, the corner to small stance opposite top of tower.
II) 24m Up corner and left wall to belay on right below superb steep corner.
III) 18m (crux) Steep corner. Belay on large terrace.
IV) 27m Good pitch up right wall of gully to steep corner.
V) 18m Up two overhangs in corner on large holds. Belay in bushes on right.
VI) 27m Easy scramble to cave.
VII)38m Airy traverse left to left hand branch of gully, then into chimney and before entering cave, move into left wall. Leftward gully then move left to airy stance.
VIII) 42m Steep wall then easier rock followed by pleasant, steep climbing to finishing platform.
IX) 18m Walk up to summit plateau by gully.

The Dark Tower 302m 17
A failed attempt to force the overhangs in the centre of the Face - above the obvious recessed grey slab. Although the overhangs remain inviolate, due to their compact, crackless nature, the climb never less winds through some impressive country, including the crux of coercion. Allow 10 hours from t he car park.
Start - can also be used for coercion, In the centre of the face there is a large recessed section with a smooth grey slab at the base of it (pitch (VII) of coercion) and massive overhangs above. Follow the base of the rock past the next buttress beyond Hell Fire Gully (about 100m beyond Hell Fire Gully). Scramble up approximately 30m towards the recess mentioned above via a series of bushy ledges, Rope up below a steep corner at small bushy ledge.
I) 40m Up groove to right of the corner and easily up to base of chimney (pitch (iv) of Coercion). Up chimney to good belay.
II) 42m Continue up broken rock to gain right side of slab - up to good ledge belay, just after a long step left.
III) 23m Step right onto arete and up wall above - thin, mossy section to good belay ledge beside wide crack.
IV) 30m (crux). Up the steep wall on the left leading to a traverse ledge giving access to the pillar on the left, Up across the wall of the pillar to a belay notch on the skyline - very photogenic.
V) 30m Walk left 5m then up to a good ledge, Walk left along this for 15m to a good belay ledge below a triangular roof.
VI) 26m Step down left to the base of an overhang crack, up this and bushy gully above (keeping to the left side) to a bushy niche.
VII) 29m Up across wall on the right and up to below the overhung crack (crux of coercion), Up this to belay niche above.
VIII) 26m Coercion traverses right from here - instead - go up left to a good corner crack. Up this until a ledge leads off left to a spacious belay below a bushy gully.

Coercion 351m 17
A serious but neverless an excellent climb full of enjoyment for an experienced team. Start beyond Hell Fire Gully, there is a buttress, go around this and up a tier of rocks leading to the face.
I) 12m Scramble up small buttress to a corner. Belay at foot of crack.
II) 38m Move left across steep smooth wall for 3m to c rack. Up crack and back right to gully. Tree belay here or up rightward leading ramp to top of buttress.
III) 30m Walk along to right to belay at base of chimney.
IV) 26m Up chimney. Belay on ledge above.
V) 9m Up buttress to top and platform.
VI) 21m Up crack system at right edge of grey slab. Long stretch left under second roof just below belay.
VII) 21m Descend and traverse left to overhanging crack. Up this to small belay ledge.
VIII) 32m Up corner on left then either:
a) Grade 12 - Descend and traverse left to overhanging crack. Up this to small belay ledge.
b) Grade 15 - Up white quartz wall above and then left to belay ledge.
IX) 21m Up groove to platform belay.
X) 27m UP overhanging groove for 6m(belay is possible here) Then delicate traverse out right, then up to below overhanging crack.
XI)12m(crux) Up overhang above to small but good belay hole.
XII) 21m Rising traverse right to belay at break in overhangs (obvious easy way through)
XIII)35m Up through break and follow gully. Scramble to top (about 45m)

Capital Seizure 320m (19)

Swiss Roll 253m (13) Mirionette 244m (110)

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