Bastion Buttress





Jubilation 32m (8)
Start on the right of "Smith's Last Stand". At the base of a crack running down from a black cave. Climb Nose above on good holds to finish above cave.

Jubilation Direct 27m (11)
Start as for "Jubilation", but climb the crack direct to the cave. Traverse 6m right and up nose to finish as Jubilation.

Smiths Last Stand 44m (13
Start at base of very obvious large corner capped by a large overhang directly above the tourist track.
I) 22m up corner to small overhang, then delicate traverse right to join large crack, then ledge is on its right. Up steep wall above to belay beside large overhang.
II) 22m up steep wall above overhang, then scramble up to left of over hanging wall to belay.

Jetstream 60m (17)
An absolute classic. An arching right hand corner that fades into some improbable looking overhangs. Start 10m left of "Smith's last stand"
I) 30m 16 up the corner then delicately right to wire and friend belay on large ledge that extends across to "Smiths Last Stand"
II)25m 16 up and back left to top of corner. Continue traversing left across the top of a roof on 2m high wall grades added for psyche value.
III) 5m 8 Easily to top.

Life Wasn't Meant To Be Easy 66m (15)
A superb direct line up Bastion Buttress. Start as for "Thumbwrench" (marched T.W)
I) 26m up corner as for T.W then continue straight up to belay below right hand end of long overhang.
II) 20m Up crack through overhang to below overhangs leading right. Strenuous moves right through overhangs and up overhanging corner to get to belay ledge.
III) 20m up to below steep wall shared by Squinch. Up wall and corner to cave. Airy traverse to right and finish up corner.

Thumbwrench 77m (8)
Start about 20m left of where tourist track reaches the Bastion. Obvious crack leading up past large bush at 12m.
I) 24m Crack leading to terrace below long overhang.
II)16m Traverse left beneath overhang then up bushy gully to belay to large tree.
III) 16m Left a few feet onto face of rib then straight up to belay beneath overhang.
IV) 21m Escape to right and continue up gully left wall, then easy scrambling to obvious "cannon stone" on Prick'll traverse.

Squinch 60m (8)
A steep but direct line up the face of The Bastion. Start from the tourist track cross to buttress which comes down from the left of The Bastion.
I) 30m Indeterminate line to left corner of main long overhang.
II)12m Traverse right above overhang to block then directly up into corner and belay
III) 9m Grooves and walls. Belay at foot of crack.
IV) 9m Leftward sloping crack. Turn final roof on left.

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