| Zimmert |
| Method 1: (Putty Method) Zimmerit has the reputation of being difficult to reproduce in scale. However, if done correctly, it looks very nice. There are a number of methods of accomplishing this feat, but I've picked the putty texturing method. I think this closely resembles what I see in pictures. I've also heard that this was how the Germans did it. How-To The first thing to do is study some good photographs to see what small variations are specific to that vehicle, such as how the pattern flows around the hull. So the next thing you want to do is come up with a plan. Keep the pictures in hand though out this process Planning Determine which details to fix before and to leave off until the zimmerit is applied. Generally small parts such as tools, headlights, mufflers, etc., should be fixed afterwards, while parts that are integral to the hull such as Saukopf mantlets are best fixed before the zimmerit. Using the reference photographs as a guide, visualise the finished plate as you are working on it, thus keeping the pattern consistent. If damaged zimmerit is to be shown, then these areas should be masked off now. I use regular masking tape. Be sure to check reference photos to see how real zimmerit falls off too. Surface Preparation The surface should be washed in a warm water mixed with a touch of dish detergent solution to remove grease and you should do this anyway for painting. I use Squadron green or white putty. It's a good idea now to mask off the areas where you don't want zimmerit on. The next thing you should do is apply small squares of 0.015" sheet stock to the fixed tool stowage points. If you look closely at reference photographs you can see that this is actually how the tool racks are fitted, so there is a space between the hull and tool rack. Spread the putty just thick enough to leave the tabs showing. After texturing, the fittings can be glued directly to these tabs. Application It is important to do one side at a time, since soft putty is easily messed up when handeling the model. For each of the standard patterns there is a slight variation. If you goof up or do not like the pattern, scrape off the putty with your putty knife. Be quick though, as the putty dries quickly. Let the plastic harden up and then sand smooth. I use two tools for making in the pattern; a #17A X-Acto blade to press in the horrizontal lines and #11 blade to scribe the vertical lines. I also use several putty knives to spread the putty onto model. Also, don't use the putty staight out of the tube. Squize some into an empty paint jar and mix with mineral spirits until it has the consistency of mayonase. This will give you little more working time too. Start spreading the mixed putty on to one side the tank, say the left side of the hull. Use the putty knives to spread the putty evenly. The thickness doesn't really matter as long as its not too thick, but do apply it uniformly. Now use the #17A bladed knive to press in the horizontal ridges and the #11 bladed knive to score the verticale ridges. Hold the #17 perpendicular and gentely press. Start at the top of a column and work down until the entire column of ridges is done. Score the verticale ridge with the #11 from top to bottom. Then move to the right and start another. Work quickly! You might want to practice on some stock plastic till you get it down. Continue doing this technique till the whole model is complete. Shouldn't take more than an hour or so. Now remove the masking tape. That's it! I've also heard of Zimm-it-rite and seen it's results and I've used it one. I'll write something up soon. Finishing Set aside to dry, usually over night. Now you ready to put those tools on and finish building the kit and and paint,.... Method 2: (Zimm-it-rite Method) |