a new cavy
first things first
home sweet home
getting to know you
the quarantine period
piggies in pairs
cavia porcellus: all about the guinea pig
Meet Portia, whom we bought on Valentine's Day 1998 from a pet store. Portia was less than a week old, terrified, and not in the best of health. Infested with mites, she infected my other guinea pigs (I raised a snit; the store paid for the treatment).
We were still learning about guinea pigs back then. But with the help of experienced piggy enthusiasts and Peter Gurney's books, we gave Portia the extra care and attention she needed. She has turned out to be a beautiful, sturdy piggy; she has a shiny coat and is very adventurous. This introduction to that cute little ball of fluff you're holding in your lap (or dreaming about) will get you on your way to being a responsible guinea pig person.
first things first.
Before you adopt a new guinea pig, shop for the supplies so that you can have everything you need before you bring your guinea pig home.
Shopping list: Items for your guinea pig's home.
(these are all discussed in the appropriate chapters)
A well-designed cage with a solid bottom;
Newspaper and bedding;
Hay rack and water bottle holder;
Ceramic food dishes, untippable;
Nesting items, such as tunnels and shelters;
Things to climb onto or tunnel under;
Storage bins for hay, pellet food, bedding, and other supplies;
An appointment at a vet, for an introductory well-piggy checkup;
Medical needs, including toenail clippers, styptic pencil,
Neosporin, mineral oil and cotton swabs
You'll also need a transport container of sorts � your new pal needs a dark, calm place to hide, since he or she is probably going to be a little scared of all the new sounds and smells. You will also need this container for vet visits, trips to Grandma's, etc.; a small cat/dog carrier is spiffy! Place newspaper and/or bedding in it so your cavy can burrow and feel safe.
home sweet home
One very important aspect of bringing guinea pigs into your home: location!
Think about where you are going to put your guinea pig's home. Back in the rarely-visited guest bedroom? In the lonely garage or basement? Don't do that to a guinea pig! Guinea pigs need human contact and a stimulating environment. You'll notice very quickly that your piggy will react to feeding times and general noises in the room. The best place to put your guinea pig's home is in a room that you frequent, but one that is not too loud. Daily contact is a must, and there is no such thing as too much cuddling. Guinea pigs crave interaction.
Make sure the cage is away from direct sunlight and direct sources of heat. Guinea pigs can get hot very quickly. Also avoid drafts from fans, old/loose windows and vents. Guinea pigs are very susceptible to colds, which can be deadly.
Guinea pigs have a similar "comfort zone" to humans. They fare well in warm, but not hot, climates. Generally, your normal home temperature range (usually 65-75 degrees F) suits guinea pigs quite nicely.
Guinea pigs tolerate cold better than hot temperatures. Since they cannot sweat to cool themselves down, guinea pigs will stretch out and become lethargic as the heat rises. Heat exhaustion and death are very real risks to guinea pigs, so provide a means for them to stay cool in hot temperatures. A popular method is freezing water in plastic bottles so that they can lay next to the bottles to cool off. Of course, remove all labels, since guinea pigs are notorious nibblers. Anything that you place in their cage should be safe to eat.
Note, however, that guinea pigs do not tolerate temperature fluctuations either, so controlling their environment is important.
getting to know you
You can leave your new guinea pig alone for the first day so that he can become accustomed to the new sounds and smells around him. Guinea pigs are creatures of habit, and this sudden change of scenery is bound to stress them out. However, pick up and cuddle your new piggy often so he can get to know you � your smell, the sound of your voice, the warmth of your hands. Even though guinea pigs may never quite warm to the idea of being picked up (some of mine still run after three years!), they need to learn to trust you and develop a bond.
the quarantine period
If you introduce a second (or third, or fourth...) guinea pig into your home, you must keep it separate from the other piggies until you are sure that the new piggie is free from any illnesses. The average quarantine period is two weeks. Always introduce guinea pigs gradually, on a neutral surface such as the living-room floor.
Guinea pigs "know" each other largely by scent, so it's often a good idea to try to get your scent on the new guinea pig. Sometimes a bath will be needed, if the pig has been neglected or if his coat is matted. If the piggy is otherwise clean, I often suggest rubbing a dirty t-shirt or pair of socks on your new friend so that he or she smells familiar to the other(s). Another tip is to put a teeny, tiny dab of Vick's Vapo-Rub on all the piggies' bums, so that they all smell the same.
piggies in pairs
Although having a single piggy is a rewarding experience - I had Basil, my sweetie, when I was a nanny - your commitment must be firm and long-standing. As soon as I took a "normal" job, I got Basil a companion piggy. I advocate getting any pets in pairs, as the companionship while you're away is essential for their happiness. A lone piggy will pine for you while you're away, and will be very bored. Remember that these are social, lively animals who need a little excitement and interaction in their day.
Compatibility generally depends on the personality of the guinea pig rather than the gender. Males are more territorial, and will fight over females. Females can try to challenge their place in the pecking order. Generally, though, guinea pigs get along quite well with one another given the proper conditions. More about compatibility is discussed in Boys and Girls.
cavia porcellus: all about the guinea pig
Guinea pigs, or cavies, are part of the Rodentia order. Many pet care books will list guinea pigs as rodents, but this is a common mistake due to the classification. Many other animals fall under the Rodentia order that we don't consider rodents: degus, jerboas, pacas, beavers, chipmunks, woodchucks, squirrels, prairie dogs, porcupines and capybaras. These animals are generally herbivores, with long incisors.
Domestic guinea pigs (cavia porcellus) are quite different from their leaner cousins in the wild. The Caviidae family represents South American rodents with one pair of teats, and four digits on the front feet, three on the hind feet.
Class: Mammalia
Order: Rodentia
Suborder: Histricomorpha
Family: Caviidae
Genus (Species) � Common Name:
Cavia (anolaimae, aperia, fulgida, guianae, nana, porcellus, tschudii) � Guinea Pig
Dolichotis (patagonum, salinicola) � Patagonian Cavy
Galea (flavidens, musteloides, spixii) � Yellow-tailed Cavy
Kerodon (rupestris) � Rock Cavy
Microcavia Microcavia (australis, shiptoni) � Mountain Cavy
Microcavia Monticavia (niata) � Mountain Cavy
(interested in taxonomy? Visit innvista)
The guinea pig does not come from Guinea, nor is it a pig. The "porcellus" in its name loosely means "pig-like." Perhaps it's due to their WHEEEEK, which sounds an awful lot like pigs to trough. The sexes are referred to as sows and boars, as in pigs. The "guinea" part possibly comes from the fact that, when they were introduced to Great Britain, they were sold for a guinea � a very valuable sale, since the piggies were rare. Or perhaps the British mistakenly believed they were from Dutch Guiana, another destination for the Spaniards who discovered them.
Cavies are natives of South America, where they are generally found in the mountainous regions of Peru. They have long been domesticated and used as a source of meat. Their high reproductive rates and accessibility made them an ideal staple. In the sixteenth century, Dutch merchants brought them to Europe, where they became pets for the upper class. Europeans began to develop different breeds of guinea pigs, and some guinea pigs were brought with immigrants to America and other countries.
Wild guinea pigs are generally found in grassy plains, in abandoned burrows or rocks. They even live in the Andes Mountains, so they can withstand lower temperatures. They are very alert and fast, as they are hunted by many other animals, especially snakes, foxes, and birds of prey. They are most active in the morning and evening, when predators are less active. Domestic guinea pigs instinctively jump when surprised; the species has an excellent defense mechanism against predators. In fact, when running from a predator, a colony of guinea pigs will suddenly explode into a scatter, running every which way in hopes of confusing the predator. Colonies of guinea pigs become very familiar with their area, and escape routes are second nature to them.
Guinea pig colonies generally consist of a dominant male with his harem. A social structure exists even within the females of the group; one alpha female will preside over a court of lesser females. If you adopt a pair of guinea pigs, you will notice this hierarchical structure as one becomes the dominant piggy. Two adult males, however, may fight viciously if a female is nearby, or even if one wants to claim his territory. Males can be happy in pairs or groups, but be aware of their instinct to be the only male in a colony.
Guinea pigs generally stay very close together, often seeking contact when resting or walking about. This stems from their social behavior patterns and need for protection. If you browse through the New England Pignic Photo Albums, you'll see guinea pigs instinctively snuggling together.
The gestation period for guinea pigs is rather long, about 60-70 days. Guinea pigs are born fully furred, with teeth and eyes open. In the wild, pups need to be able to run quickly along with the rest of the colony to avoid getting eaten. Baby guinea pigs are adorably goofy, with ears and legs that are too big for their little bodies. They are up and running about in no time.
Guinea pigs communicate with a large array of sounds, and keep close together for warmth and security. They constantly assess the dangers around them and alert the others if needed. You may notice your guinea pig stretching up, nose high in the air to check out what's happening nearby. These are very sociable animals, and need lots of attention to be happy. They will actually feel lonely, so if you are thinking of adopting a guinea pig, understand their needs, including the need for companionship.
habitats
types of habitats
gallery: creative habitats
kathy's theme cages
bedding
keeping your cavy interested
cage basics: the essentials
free-range guinea pigs
the great outdoors
What are the things that we need in order to survive? Food, clothing and protection from both weather and things that might eat us. Of course, we humans can always change our environment, but our piggy pals depend on us wholly for their safety and well-being. So be responsible and make sure that you have the best home sweet home for your piggy.
Are you ready for the responsibility of cleaning the cage? Since keeping things clean is a daily task, choose a cage that is easy for you to clean. At the very least, you will need to replace the bedding two or three times a week. Ideally, you should remove bedding as it becomes soiled or wet, and replace. Then do a thorough cleaning once a week with a solution of one part bleach to ten parts water. Also clean water bottles, food dishes, and any tube or house.
Your cavy's home must have a solid bottom, no wires, to prevent foot injury, and plenty of ventilation. I highly suggest getting the biggest cage you can fit into your room. Most books recommend 2-3 square feet per cavy, but that's not very much. Romping room is very important for piggy health. Cages should have walls high enough so that they can't toss out the litter. Cavies can climb up on a shelf, but if you add a level, keep it low so they don't jump off and break a leg. Some really helpful size and setup information is also available at cavycages.com.
types of habitats
aquariums
I do not recommend aquariums. First, they can be too isolating to guinea pigs, who love to interact with their surroundings. Also, ammonia (from urine) can build up quickly, as can heat, both of which are hazardous to your guinea pig. Many experienced guinea pig owners will argue that aquariums are fine; I just think that it's not the best option.
plastic pans with wire tops
A good "beginner" cage, but it needs to be big enough for your cavy to be fairly active. The basic pet store cage is often too small, but there are online places and large pet store chains that will carry large cages. The sides should be high enough to keep bedding inside, and the top should be wire, with an opening that allows easy access to your guinea pig. I personally feel that any guinea pig person can build a better habitat than one that's pre-fab.
designer cages
One particular plastic cage on the market is designed to look futuristic � it has a solid bottom, then a clear plastic top that curves up, with a small wire opening at the top. This type of plastic cage is inhumane; it is too enclosed, and heat and ammonia could build up too quickly. Think of a greenhouse. I wouldn't recommend this type of cage at all! Designer cages are marketed to our needs, not for guinea pigs.
metal cages
The same points for plastic cages apply to metal ones: solid bottom, sides high enough to keep the litter in, and spacious enough for the guinea pig to be active. Beware of sharp metal edges, and make sure that the cage is rust-free.
plastic kiddie pools
This is a great idea for a large pen, provided you have the room, and any other pets won't use it as a litterbox. These plastic pools are easy to clean, and you can line them with litter or newspaper. However, you have to be creative about attaching a water bottle. If used for exercise, you can store them under the bed until the next exercise time. Many people have used wire to add height to the sides of the pool, since kiddie pools may be low enough to allow piggies to jump out.
Cubes and coroplast cages
CavyCages.com features information and instructions on building a habitat out of cubes/grids and Coroplast, a corrugated plastic commonly used for signs. The site discusses where to find cubes and Coroplast, the advantages and challenges of building a cage with these materials, and various options. Definitely worth a look if you're planning to build your own!
custom cages
Here's where you get an A+ for effort. Test your skills by building a cavy palace! Hardwoods and plastics are easily cut to special sizes; if you use wood, make sure to treat the wood (and let it dry thoroughly) so that urine won't rot the wood quickly. The sides can be wood, Plexiglas, interlocking panels, large plastic storage boxes and even corrugated plastic. The general rule of thumb: no sharp edges, and nothing toxic. Cavies will chew on just about anything in the cage, including the cage itself! For that reason, be aware where you're putting nails or glue.
a gallery of creative habitats
Check out kathy's theme cages for more creative themes and ideas for your piggy's home. Below are some more ideas on how to set up your own!
(Thanks to Kathy Anderson and Dale Sigler for compiling this list)
combinations Dale's main, boy's dorm and girl's condo
Seagull's creative combinations
Eva's setups and suggestions
Catproof cage (.pdf file)
cubes / grids Kelly's cage pages
Seagull's condo
wood, Plexiglas Mary's piggy palace
Bill's pigpen for inca and pygmy
OinkerNet's condo, complete with running track
other materials SPCA British Columbia's corrugated plastic habitat
plastic storage containers Kelly's really cheap cages
wading pools Kelly's really cool pool
Seagull's exercise pen
bedding
Never, ever use those typical pet-shop beddings, such as cedar, the green stuff, and fragranced wood shavings; they are treated with or contain fragrant oils and are toxic to guinea pigs. Kitty litter is unsuitable for guinea pigs, since it is clay-based, dusty and treated with fragrance.
wood shavings
Don't even consider cedar. The fragrant oils (phenols) are toxic and can cause respiratory damage to your piggy. Aspen and pine wood shavings are a very popular choice, since they are inexpensive and control odor fairly well. And both are safe for guinea pigs, as long as they are prepared correctly. Pine, especially, is often debated because it contains fragrant oils in its natural state, but oven/kiln-dried pine is available.
If you want to use pine, look specifically for kiln-dried pine shavings at farm/feed stores and sawmills; this type of pine is unbelievably cheap, and has been oven-dried to remove the oils. The shavings should be coarse, about the size of breakfast cereal flakes, with no dust. And they should not smell pungent. Some manufacturers don't remove all the oil, or use turpentine in their drying process � both dangerous to guinea pigs. You'll have to do a bit of searching to find the safe kiln-dried pine. Look for three things to ensure that your pine shavings are safe for guinea pigs:
Kiln-dried and sifted to remove small bits;
No strong smell (pine oils, turpentine, other chemicals)
Large flakes, not sawdust
The final test: open up the pine and grab a large handful. Smell it. Then open your palm and let the shavings drop into the bag. If a bunch of bits are stuck to your hand, then it's too dusty.
I use kiln-dried white pine shavings from a sawmill; it costs $3.50 for a 40-lb. bale, which lasts me about a month. You can check with sawmills and farm/feed stores in your area to find excellent pine: remember, it must be white pine, kiln-dried, and screened to remove dust and debris.
carefresh
Recycled wood pulp bedding, such as Care-Fresh, is immensely popular but costly. It is soft and dust-free, but it can mold quickly when it becomes wet. Carefresh is made of wood pulp by-products from the pulp and paper industry used in the manufacture of paper and cardboard. They don't use dye nor chemicals, and it's virtually dust-free.
However, this environmentally aware bedding comes with a high price tag. Search online for the best prices; many guinea pig people buy in bulk and form a co-op with others in their town. Visit Carefresh's site for more information, pricing and ordering.
straw and hay
Both are popular as burrowing material, but remember that they can mold rather quickly. A soft pile of hay makes a great burrowing spot for your cavy. But beware of sharp ends that can poke your cavy in the eye. If you want to use straw and hay, use it as a top layer with some newspaper or other bedding below it. Make sure that it's not moldy to begin with, and break up long, hard bits of straw that can be sharp.
kitty litter and other bedding
Any type of traditional clay-based kitty litters are not suitable for small animals. A few types of environmentally friendly cat litter, such as Feline Pine and wood-based litters, can pass for a suitable bedding for your guinea pig. However, be aware of dust, strong fragrances, and hardness. Dust and fragrance are pretty obvious - both are harmful for your guinea pig's respiratory system. But hardness? Hey, if you've ever slept on a lumpy futon or a hard mattress, you'll understand. All of the beddings above are fairly soft and provide some degree of "nesting" for your guinea pig. But hard pellets (in my opinion, Feline Pine is a bit hard) must be uncomfortable to lay on, don't you think? Corncob-based beddings can seem like a good choice; they are absorbent and control odors, and they don't have much dust. However, if guinea pigs eat the bedding, there is a high risk of death, since they can choke on the particles.
a good method for bedding...
I recommend this method for using bedding of any kind: Place many layers of folded newspaper in the cage, and then add a small layer of bedding on top.
To clean, simply lift out the top sections of damp newspaper along with the soiled bedding, and refresh with new bedding on top until you reach the last layer of newspaper.
Then clean the cage and start over. Use only the daily newspaper with black ink, since glossy pages (such as Sunday paper inserts) may be toxic to guinea pigs if eaten.
This method saves a lot of time, and allows you to do that deep-cleaning less often; urine wicks into the newspaper, making it easier to deal with. And you're recycling newspaper, too!
For six guinea pigs, I take about five minutes every other day to take out the soiled top layers and refresh the bedding. I remove all the newspapers and scrub the cage about once every three weeks. This method sure beats scrubbing out the calcified, crusty urine from the bottom of the cage!
keeping your cavy interested
What should you put in the cage to keep your guinea pig interested? Here's where you get to be creative. A popular item is 4-inch PVC pipe from house supply stores; it lasts much longer than cardboard tunnels and can be cleaned easily. Plus, it can't be eaten! A shelter of some sort is necessary, though some will argue that a hiding place will make your guinea pig more skittish. However, guinea pigs are "run and hide" creatures, so yours will need some sort of dark refuge. A house can be as elaborate as you can build it, or as simple as a cardboard box. My suggestion: make it a three-sided shelter, so your guinea pig is under something, but can still see you (and you can see them). Bricks are good for climbing onto, as long as they are clean and your guinea pig doesn't start eating them. In the summer, my girls are stretched out on bricks and large pieces of slate tile, which stay cool despite the hot days. Here's an idea: line up a couple of bricks and put a tile square on top. It's a little piggy platform! On hot days, that nice, cool tile will be the best spot in the house.
Other climbing toys include wood blocks, flowerpots, cut tree branches, and wooden platforms with ramps. Remember to keep climbing things low; a fall can seriously injure a guinea pig, and they're a little daft when it comes heights.
Many owners suggest bird toys or ferret toys for guinea pigs; try anything, as long as it:
can be eaten or chewed without risk of choking;
does not have sharp edges or anything that can harm a guinea pig;
won't take up too much room in the cage; and
isn't too narrow (tubes) or small for your piggy.
Some guinea pigs love squeaky toys, or little cat toys with bells in them. Others will try to destroy anything you put in the cage! You'll have to try a few different things to see what toys your guinea pig likes. When trying out new toys, it's good to think like a toddler: can you chew it, or lick it (like Portia)? Will it break if you throw it around?
a list of safe toys for your guinea pig
thick PVC pipe (short sections)
Pigloos, with a larger entry hole cut in them
terra cotta flowerpots
carboard boxes (no glue, staples, plastic)
bricks or tile
wood blocks
fruit tree branches, chemical-free
guinea pig toys, safe for chewing
tennis balls
straw chew/hide balls
ferret toys safe for chewing
safe squeaky toys
cat/dog toys with bells in them
wooden baby blocks
wheels, balls and other hazards
Do not buy rodent wheels for your guinea pig, even if they say "for guinea pigs." The bars on the wheel can easily injure a foot, and guinea pigs are simply not made for them: they are heavier than rodents and not as nimble for such a fast-moving contraption. Your cavy can easily break a foot in a rodent wheel. Those big plastic balls are marketed as being ideal for guinea pigs, but 99% of the guinea pigs in the world will sit, terrified, in the ball. This plastic ball is too disorienting for guinea pigs; it cuts them off from their environment, and doesn't allow them to really see where they're going. It's much better to just let your piggy roam in the kitchen, with a few towels thrown on the floor. Keep all wires, small spaces and other hazards out of your guinea pig's way during floortime.
cage basics: the essentials
Of course, there are basics that every piggy needs to stay happy. A sturdy water bottle and a hay rack. Food dishes should be heavy, so that they're not tipped over easily. Plastic bowls are often too light, and are chewed too easily. Make sure the food dish is small enough so that the guinea pigs don't sit in it. And if you can find one, get a dish that is wider on the bottom than the top, to prevent tipping.
The complete cage setup, from the cage itself to the bedding to the items inside the cage, should provide plenty of room for your guinea pig, and enough interactivity to keep him or her interested. However, there's no substitute for cuddling, so be sure to play with your guinea pig every single day. As I've said in "A New Cavy," two guinea pigs are often happier than one.
free-range guinea pigs
If your guinea pig has a pen and you put him on the floor for exercise time, throw some old towels and a couple of boxes or baskets on the floor so that he can have a little place to hide. Just as you'd protect a toddler from wires, outlets and chemicals, make sure that your guinea pig cannot get himself in trouble by chewing wires, ingesting toxic plants or chemicals, or getting stuck somewhere dangerous. Some people set up a free-range habitat for their guinea pigs and litter train them so that they can wander around the house freely. I haven't been able to do this myself, as my girls generally pee wherever they can and chew on my table legs. But if you'd like a free-range guinea pig, you must toilet train her from a young age, and set up little homes and feeding stations so that she can hide when she needs to. You'll need to keep wires and potential hazards out of her reach.
toilet training
Sorry, guys - I simply haven't had much luck in this area, so I'll leave it up to the people who've had success in this area. Visit my messageboard to meet many guinea pig enthusiasts who will have tips on toilet training your guinea pig.
the great outdoors
No, not an outdoor cage; outdoor homes are best left to experts. I'm talking about taking your guinea pig outdoors for exercise. Some guinea pigs love being outside; others are nervous about open spaces (and strange noises and smells). Don't trust your guinea pig to stay next to you; make a small play area out of wire, short fencing, or wire shelving. You can use anything, as long as your guinea pig cannot escape! Place something for the guinea pig to run into when frightened. One of my guinea pigs heard a crow in the distance one day, and just ran in circles from fright! I put a small tree branch with leaves in the play area, and she dove under it for a few minutes.
Guinea pigs are adorable munching happily on grass, basking in the sun and making happy wheeking noises. Only take them outside on warm days � if you can wear short sleeves comfortably, then it's warm enough. The ground should be dry, never damp, and the area should be free from pesticides, animal droppings and chemicals. Do not leave your guinea pig in full sun; it will get overheated too easily. It is essential to provide a water source, either through slides of watermelon or other watery fruit, or a water bottle. Once you've made sure that your guinea pig is comfortable and happy outside, enjoy yourself! Just keep a close watch on your companion.
food
pelleted food
hay
a variety of veggies
focus on vitamin C and calcium
water
More hay, please! Like all guinea pigs, our girls love to munch on hay. For good reason, too: the steady supply of hay will keep their teeth honed and their digestive systems running smoothly. In addition to hay, guinea pigs need a diet that will provide them the right balance of nutrients that their pudgy little bodies need. This section will teach you how to keep your piggy well-fed and happy!
The most common mistake made by new guinea pig people is to feed them a pellet-based food and miscellaneous vegetables without thinking about the dietary requirements that are specific to guinea pigs. I have received many emails that fall under the category of "what does it eat?" So make sure you understand the dietary needs of guinea pigs to prevent illness later on.
pelleted food
Pelleted food is the most readily available source of food for guinea pigs, providing a good source of nutrients. Pellets should be a staple in your guinea pig's diet, after hay. Only use feed formulated specifically for guinea pigs; other small animal feeds lack nutrients that are essential for our piggies.
Unfortunately, many of the bags on pet store shelves do not have adequate nutritional value. Several brands contain added nuts and sunflower seeds, which are way too high in fat and pose a serious danger: seeds, especially sunflower seeds, can cause a guinea pig to choke. Look for a pelleted food that is timothy-hay based, and one that does not have nuts, seeds or other "floofy" bits. Check for a "milled" date. The fresher the pellet, the more vitamin C will be present. As I will discuss below, vitamin C degrades rapidly, so a fresher pellet is a better pellet for your piggy. But assume that you'll need to supplement your guinea pig's diet with C, just the same.
Some brands that are well-recommended:
Oxbow's Cavy Cuisine, available at selected stores and through www.oxbowhay.com
American Pet Diner's Timmy pellet, available through www.americanpetdiner.com
Blue Seal, available at farm and feed stores
Kay-Tee Forti-Diet or Exact, a good pet store brand
(If you would like to recommend a pelleted food to add to this list, email me)
Pellet food can be left in the cage for your guinea pig to eat as needed, but you should know how much your guinea pig is eating. Provide a sturdy, heavy container, to prevent your guinea pig from tipping it over. Approximate daily feed per guinea pig is one or two ounces, depending on age and activity level. Guinea pigs will eat more out of boredom; pregnant piggies may eat like crazy. Some people advocate feeding hay and veggies as the main part of your guinea pig's diet, with pelleted food only as a supplement. This, too, is a viable approach, as long as you are fastidious about nutrition and balance in your piggy's diet.
hay
Guinea pigs need a diet rich in fiber to help digestion. A constant supply of hay is essential because it provides the fiber that guinea pigs need without a lot of calories. Hay satisfies the guinea pig's natural grazing instinct and helps to keep the front teeth from overgrowing. It is wise to buy a hay rack to hang on the side of the cage; hay left on the cage floor will easily become soiled (and moldy) from urine. You can basically feed a guinea pig as much hay as it will eat.
Timothy hay is the best hay to feed to your guinea pig, as is any sort of grass hay. Alfalfa hay is good, although it contains a high level of calcium, which is suspected to lead to bladder stones. Feed alfalfa hay only occasionally; even though it's not necessarily bad for your guinea pig; it should be considered more of a treat than a staple in your piggies' diet.
Tried-and-true hay:
Oxbow's timothy hay, through www.oxbowhay.com
American Pet Diner has timothy and other grass hay at www.americanpetdiner.com
Sweet Meadow Hay has excellent grass hay at www.sweetmeadowfarm.com
Check out regional farms in your area to inquire about timothy and grass hay.
a variety of veggies
In addition to hay and pelleted feed, provide your guinea pig with some fresh vegetables daily. These will provide the essential vitamin C that your piggy needs, along with an interesting variety in his or her diet. Tend toward feeding more vegetables, with fruits sparingly in the diet. The natural sugars in fruits should not be a major part of a guinea pig's diet.
There is no steadfast amount for feeding vegetables to guinea pigs. Start with small amounts, and see what your piggy likes. Guinea pigs will not eat what they do not like. Remove any uneaten fruits or veggies after about an hour so that you don't have an icky, moldy mess in your guinea pig's home. Most fresh fruits and vegetables have a high water content, so your guinea pig may drink less water than you'd expect. That is normal. However, if you notice diarrhea or loose stools, you're feeding a bit too much; cut out the fresh fruits and veggies until the poo returns to normal, and then feed a smaller amount of fresh foods each day.
Experiment with different fruits and vegetables; use this list to start, and find what your guinea pig likes. ALL fresh foods must be washed and free of pesticide residue. If you're picking dandelion greens or grass from outside, ensure that the area is/was free of chemicals and animal droppings, which are lethal. Even car exhaust fumes can leave traces of poison; recently-mowed grass will still have toxic fumes from the lawnmower on it.
I like the nutritional content tables provided by Seagull's Guinea Pig Compendium. You'll notice values for vitamin C, protein, calcium and phosphorus. Generally, specific amounts of these nutrients must be in your guinea pig's diet. Too little vitamin C in the diet can cause scurvy; too much calcium in the diet can cause bladder sludge and stones. More about these nutrients below.
Some fruits and veggies to try:
apples (see below)
bananas
bell peppers: green, orange and red
carrots, including the green tops
cilantro
cucumber
dandelion greens
grass, free of chemicals/poisons
green leaf lettuce
oranges
parsley
romaine lettuce
tomatoes
Some foods that come with cautionary notes:
apples are great, but some piggies have an allergic reaction to the acids. Do not feed if you notice any mouth sores or scabs on your guinea pig's lips
celery, cut into small pieces because "strings" can be a choking hazard; celery is a good source of water on car trips, but not a daily food
corn husks, cut into small pieces for the same reason as celery
kale, mustard/turnip greens, and spinach contain a lot of oxalates, which can be dangerous in large amounts. This is a debated point, but it's better to just play it safe.
Melons, in small amounts, since they have an extremely high water and sugar content: cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon.
Organic rolled oats are nice treats, mixed in with pellets, but feed sparingly due to their high fat content
Some foods to avoid completely:
cabbage, bok choy and collard greens can cause gas
potatoes are too risky, so best not to feed them to your guinea pig
nuts and seeds can splinter and puncture the throat; besides, they are way too high in fat to be part of your guinea pig's diet
many raw beans and lentils are poisonous, so best not to feed any of these
focus on vitamin c and calcium
Guinea pigs need vitamin C, as they cannot manufacture it on their own. Too little vitamin C in their diet can cause scurvy; signs include loss of movement in the legs. Because vitamin C degrades rapidly once added to water, most liquid supplements are useless by the time you buy them off the shelf. The best source of C is actually ascorbic acid in powder form added to water. Ascorbic acid is found in whole food and nutrition stores. If you use this method, though, you must refresh the water daily. If you use a vitamin C tablet, get one that does not have any additives, including sugar.
Just as we should ideally get all our nutrients from food instead of vitamin supplements, the ideal way to provide enough vitamin C in your guinea pigs' diet is to feed veggies high in C.
Calcium in your guinea pigs' diet is a good thing, but TOO much calcium can lead to bladder sludge and stones, which can be fatal. Avoid giving vegetables that are high in calcium to your guinea pig every day, and make sure that alfalfa is not a main staple in your guinea pigs' diet. Signs that your piggy may have bladder or urinary tract issues include squeaking while using the bathroom, or rearing up slightly to poop. This is discussed a bit more in the Health section.
water
Water must be constantly available to your guinea pig. Don't provide water in a dish; you'll have a wet piggy, wet bedding and poop in the water. Get a sipper bottle with an aluminum tube, since guinea pigs nibble the end. They may also play with the bottle, which leads to dribbling and wet bedding. It is very important to change the water daily, and clean it weekly. To clean, use a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water; don't use commercial cleaners, since they are toxic to guinea pigs. Make sure to remove mold from inside the bottle if it forms. Many smart cavy companions will buy two bottles, so that one can be cleaned and dried thoroughly while the other is being used. Very smart.
I cannot stress this enough: If you supplement your water with Vitamin C, it must be changed daily. Vitamin C degrades very rapidly in water. Ascorbic acid in powder form works beautifully, as does any water-soluble (but not in liquid form) C vitamin. Don't crush children's vitamins or orange drink powder (such as Tang) into the water; they contain sugar and are harmful to your guinea pig.
health
the well-piggy checkup
what can possibly go wrong with guinea pigs?
skin
the respiratory system
the digestive system
scurvy
bladder and urinary tract issues eye injuries
teeth
impaction in male guinea pigs
other conditions and valuable medical sites
antibiotics
grooming
brushing, barbering and bathing
toenails: piggy pedicures
ears
To ensure the best life for your guinea pig, you must provide not only food and shelter, but also companionship and care. A guinea pig needs social interaction (remember, two are no more trouble than one), and it needs to spend time with you. In addition, you should learn how your guinea pig acts: some are calm, while some are very energetic. Once you know your guinea pig's distinctive personality, you will be able to tell when something is wrong.
The CavyMadness Messageboard has a forum for medical questions, and frequented by many, many people who are very experienced with guinea pig care and illnesses. Sites listed under the "Care" section on the CavyMadness Links page also delve deeper into medical care for your guinea pig. Be as knowledgeable as you can about the common illnesses that affect guinea pigs before you are faced with an emergency.
the well-piggy checkup
It is always a good idea to take your new guinea pig to a veterinarian for a checkup. The vet will be able to check your guinea pig's teeth, ears, and coat. It is also important to know your guinea pig's weight, since weight loss is the most common signs of illness in a guinea pig. Become aware of what a healthy guinea pig looks and feels like, so you can better tell when something's amiss.
Find a vet that is experienced with guinea pigs! Many vets can be certified as exotics vets without treating any guinea pigs. If you ask a shelter in your area, or post to a newsgroup, you should find an experienced guinea pig vet. And one last suggestion: Don't wait until you need one; find a vet in your area and keep the phone number handy. If your guinea pig is ill, you'll need to seek treatment as soon as possible. You'll notice that "consult your vet" is mentioned several times in the following paragraphs. As a beginning cavy owner, never treat illnesses yourself unless you have consulted with a veterinarian or a guinea pig expert.
A healthy guinea pig:
is alert and reactive to his surroundings
has bright, clear eyes, with no residue or crust
has ears that don't smell, and are not coated or excessively waxy
has a thick coat with no dry spots or raw patches
(but no hair behind ears is normal)
has no residue or wetness around the nose or mouth
will have teeth that meet correctly
has no impaction or diarrhea
is free from lice or other parasites
will still need to be quarantined from other guinea pigs
because not all illnesses are visible
what can possibly go wrong
with guinea pigs?
As long as you follow the basic guidelines for food, water and housing, your guinea pigs will be generally healthy. Guinea pigs live from 5 to 8 years. Instinctively, as with many mammals, guinea pigs will generally hide their illness. However, a change in weight or eating/drinking habits, lethargy, and differences in urine/poop all signal that something is wrong.
skin: lice and mites
Don't worry, you can't catch lice or mites from your guinea pig. Neither can your other pets; they're species-specific. Signs for both include excessive scratching, loss of hair, and perhaps lesions (from the guinea pig scratching and biting itself). With lice, you'll be able to see tiny little white things attached to hairs, especially near the head and ears. Both require treatment of ALL guinea pigs in the cage.
Lice can usually be treated at home. Check with an expert or vet if you have any doubts or questions. Basically, any lice treatment suitable for cats will work for guinea pigs. Make sure that the lice dip contains Pyrethin, and massage into the coat. Do NOT dip the head; take a small cloth with the solution on it and rub on the head. The smell will be strong, but you need to get under the eyes and around the ears, which are two places that lice like to "run." Dry thoroughly, as in bathing. Before you place your guinea pig back into the cage, change all the bedding and clean the cage with the lice dip, to kill any lice that may be remaining. Since lice products often don't kill all of the eggs, it will be necessary to re-do your piggy a few days after the first treatment.
Mites, on the other hand, live beneath the skin and cannot be seen until they cause irritated skin and hair loss. You must go to a vet to confirm that mites are present. Treatment usually begins with a skin scraping and, if confirmed, requires two shots of Ivermectin. Don't try to treat the mites yourself; they are under the skin and must be treated by injection. There is no dip nor ointment that will help.
skin: cysts and fungus
Sebaceous cysts are basically big pimple-like pockets of fluid right below the skin. Yep, they're pretty gross and sometimes come to a "head," which you can then squeeze gently to drain. Sometimes they just sit there as a big squishy lump on your guinea pig. You may opt to go to the vet to have the cyst drained, since a cyst that bursts INSIDE your guinea pig can cause problems.
What's in there? Basically a toothpaste-like ooze that stinks to high heaven. You remember zits, right? Well, this is about the same thing, but a lot bigger. If you do (gently) drain one, keep the area clean, apply an antibiotic ointment such as Neosporin, and prevent other piggies from nibbling the area. There's no guarantee that the cyst won't come back; many will fill up again over time. Remember, though, that they are basically harmless compared to everything else that can affect a guinea pig.
Not-so-harmless are fungal infections, which are usually associated with patches of hair loss. The skin is usually scaly or flaky, and your piggy will no doubt be scratching at the area. Two common types of fungal infections are Trichophyton mentagrophytes and Microsporum canis.
Treatment for fungal infections is fairly easy; topical shampoos and creams are available in your local pharmacy. Tea tree oil is an organic option; Miconazole cream, Lamisil (2x/day for 1-2 weeks), Veltrim/clotrimazole and Nizoral shampoo (twice in a week) are all topical creams that work well. In severe cases, Griseofulvin, an oral medication, can be prescribed by your veterinarian.
KEEP IN MIND that, to the beginner, fungus and mites may present themselves in the same way. They require very different treatments. If you have any doubts, consult your veterinarian.
the respiratory system
Guinea pigs are highly susceptible to respiratory infections, caused by bacteria, dampness, drafts, and a dirty cage. Guinea pigs can pick up germs from humans, so if you have a cold, handle your guinea pig only as necessary, and wash your hands before preparing food and picking up your pig.
Always consult a veterinarian if your guinea pig has a cough, runny nose, or trouble breathing (place your ear against your guinea pig's chest and listen; if the breathing sounds "wet," irregular or "clicky," get it checked). An untreated "cold" or upper respiratory infection is almost always fatal for a guinea pig. (they don't get colds and recover after a few days, like we do.)
Signs to watch for include runny nose, crusty eyes, irregular breathing, loss of appetite, and coughing/sneezing. If you suspect a cold, it's best to seek treatment as quickly as possible.
the digestive system
If given an adequate diet, including plenty of fresh hay, guinea pigs rarely have stomach troubles. The most common malady is diarrhea from eating too much "watery" vegetables. This is easily fixed by cutting back on the fresh veggies until your guinea pig's poop returns to normal.
But chronic diarrhea, a watery bum, black diarrhea or foul-smelling mess indicates a very serious intestinal problem. If your guinea pig is on antibiotics and develops chronic diarrhea, contact your vet immediately, as many antibiotics (listed below) are harmful to piggies and can cause deadly diarrhea. Moldy fruits and vegetables can also be culprits. If you piggy shows any of the signs I've just mentioned, contact your vet.
Another serious condition called bloat occurs when there is an intestinal blockage or too much gas builds up in the stomach. The abdomen will be tight and hollow-sounding. Over-the-counter gas treatments such as simethicone will help if your guinea pig just has a case of gas, but get advice from an expert or vet first. Treatment for the two is not the same! Bloat requires more intensive monitoring to rule out obstructions in the digestive tract. It's best to get to a vet immediately, especially if your piggy has stopped pooping.
scurvy
One thing that guinea pigs have in common with humans: we both need to supplement our diets with vitamin C. Too little vitamin C in your guinea pigs' diet will cause scurvy � stiffness and difficulty walking, even paralysis. Feed your piggy foods rich in vitamin C (as discussed under Food) and, if you feel that you need to supplement still, use ascorbic acid in the water bottle or a powdered, unsweetened C tablet. Keep in mind that vitamin C, once added to water or a mix, will deteriorate rapidly, so you must administer supplements daily. Also keep in mind that too much C can cause diarrhea, so moderation is key.
bladder and urinary tract issues
Bladder sludge and stones are, sadly, a common condition caused by too much calcium buildup in the bladder and urinary tract. Some calcium is good for your guinea pig, but calcium-rich foods, such as alfalfa, must be fed sparingly to avoid getting a surplus of calcium in your guinea pig's system. Signs of bladder sludge include squeaking or raising up of the rear end while going to the bathroom. In males, some calcium can build up around the base of the penis, causing inflammation and pain. Blood in the urine is also a sign of bladder stones or a urinary tract infection.
Some treatments are available to get rid of excess sludge, but once a bladder stone has formed, surgery is usually the only option. Some guinea pigs will show signs of pain while using the bathroom and will also pass blood in their urine, which mandates a trip to the vet. Other guinea pigs have bladder stones that are buoyant or otherwise painless in the bladder, making detection almost impossible until the stone moves into the urethra and causes a blockage.
Bladder stones and urinary tract infections need to be treated immediately.
eye injuries
If you notice a white cast over the eye, chances are it's either a cataract or an injury. The latter is most often the case, though: if a guinea pig's eye is injured by a sharp blade of hay or a scratch, the eye will respond by creating a cataract-like cover, causing temporary blindness, so that the eye muscles can rest. Eye ointments are available from your vet. You gently rub over the eye for a few days; if the eye does not clear up within two or three days, consult your vet.
Cataracts, on the other hand, are only removed via surgery, which is often too traumatizing for guinea pigs. Older guinea pigs with cataracts can live quite normally with the limited vision, as long as their surroundings are constant. If you are concerned about your piggy having cataracts, consult your vet.
teeth
A guinea pig's teeth grow continuously, so it is important that they have enough hay and other roughage in their diet to wear the teeth down. If the front (incisor) teeth are overgrown because they do not meet properly (malocclusion), the guinea pig will be unable to eat and may eventually die. The back teeth (molars) can also overgrow and cause problems and death. Symptoms of overgrown teeth include loss of weight and excessive salivation. In the case of overgrown or infected molars, surgery may be the only option.
If the front teeth are broken, they must be clipped to an even level so that the bite is even. Keep in mind that the teeth are always growing; if a tooth is actually missing, it will grow back as long as the root remains. You may need to feed your guinea pig soft food, if the alignment is affected, until the teeth grow back.
impaction in male guinea pigs
If you have a male guinea pig, there is one chore that you will need to do on a regular basis. It's not pretty, but it ensures the health of your boar.
When attracting a female, boars will drag their bottom along the cage floor to secrete their scent. Their perineal pouch is open, and bedding can get caught inside when the pouch closes. What, exactly, is a perineal pouch? Place your boar on a flat surface and turn him over. Look between his hind legs, and you'll see a donut-shaped swelling. That "donut" contains his anus and testicles. The inside of the donut is called the perineal pouch, and it's coated with a sticky fluid that acts as a scent gland. Since poop comes through this pouch as well, it can get "backed up" from time to time, which causes impaction.
Impaction also occurs when older boars lack the muscle tone to fully push out their poop, causing the same type of "backup"; the result is a large mass that, once hardened, can be very painful.
Gently open the pouch, and you'll see debris and/or poop stuck inside. This mix can result in quite a stench, so brace yourself! Gather a lot of Q-tips, mineral oil, and tissues. You may also want to put a perfumed lotion under your nose if you're squeamish. Moisten the Q-tips with mineral oil and gently clean inside the pouch to remove the debris. NEVER, EVER pull at something that's stuck to the pouch! The skin in this area is very thin, and can easily tear, causing a lot of pain to your piggy. Your mission is to gently remove the mass and lubricate the inside of the pouch.
Naturally, your boar may not take kindly to this procedure at first, but it's necessary. You may want someone else to hold him while you do the honors. Use a clean Q-tip every time you enter the pouch. This procedure should be done at least monthly, depending on how impacted your boar becomes.
Boars can also get debris caught around their penis; have your vet or an experienced owner show you how to gently check the penis for debris or hair twisted around it. Inflammation or debris in this spot can be a very painful thing for boars. Grainy white residue around the base of the penis can be indicative of calcium buildup. If you don't have the stomach for cleaning your boar's perineal pouch and penis, perhaps you may want to stick to female guinea pigs only.
other conditions and valuable medical sites
obesity, caused by lack of exercise and boredom, is dangerous to guinea pigs and all pets.
bumblefoot and foot deformities, whether congenital or caused by wire flooring, need to be treated with a vet's supervision.
pregnancy, though not an illness, requires some preparation should complications arise.
malocclusion and other dental problems require veterinary care.
Ovarian cysts, tumors and other malignant growths require veterinary care.
These illnesses are less common, so I will refer you to the more in-depth care sites out there. The sites below are highly recommended; you can also check out the Medical Forum at the CavyMadness Messageboard if you have general questions about illnesses. Remember, though, that these are not substitutes for treating a sick piggy. Find an experienced vet before you need one, including your local emergency vet, so that you can treat your piggy quickly if needed.
The Peter Gurney Guinea Pig Pages is UK-based, so some products may not be familiar to those living outside the UK. But the information is valuable to anyone who wants a better understanding of the illnesses that affect guinea pigs.
GuineaLynx is a comprehensive medical guide that includes a Medical Emergency Guide, a listing of symptoms that require treatment.
Seagull's Guinea Pig Compendium includes a vet finder and wonderful nutrition tables, as well as general health and care information.
antibiotics
If your veterinarian prescribes antibiotics or other strong medications for your guinea pig, ask about side effects. Antibiotics can cause loss of appetite, which is dangerous; you may need to syringe-feed your piggy some mashed-up food to ensure that he or she gets the right nutrition while recuperating.
Antibiotics remove ALL bacteria, good and bad, from the digestive tract. Since some bacteria is needed to maintain a balance in the gut, the good bacteria needs to be replaced. Acidophilous, plain yogurt or Bene-bac will replenish the flora in the digestive tract. These must be fed several hours apart from any dosage of antibiotics or other medication.
If your guinea pig stops eating, tell your vet immediately. Lack of energy and diarrhea should also be reported to your vet immediately. Be aware of antibiotics that are deadly to your guinea pig, since many vets may not be experienced enough to know the dangers. And one final tip: just like humans, guinea pigs should finish the entire round of antibiotics in order for the treatment to be effective. Don't administer medications yourself; always consult a vet.
Potentially harmful antibiotics:
Penicillin in ANY form,
including synthetic penicillin
amoxicillin (Clavamox)
clindamycin
erythromycin
lincomycin
streptomycin
ampicillin
clinamycin (Anitrobe)
neomycin
tetracycline
Safe antibiotics for guinea pigs:
Baytril (enrofloaxin)
sulfamezathine
Bactrim
tribissen (trimethoprim)
grooming
Guinea pigs will generally clean themselves, but long-haired breeds such as the Peruvian, Texel and Silkie need a little extra attention to the coat. The Baldwin, new to the guinea pig scene, is hairless and needs extra attention to its skin. Abyssinian guinea pigs have rosettes in their coat, and need brushing, though not as much as longhaired breeds. Grooming piggies takes some patience; most guinea pigs won't like their hair being pulled this way and that. But with some gentle words and lots of parsley bribes, guinea pigs will eventually take well to brushing, bathing and general inspection.
brushing, "barbering" and bathing
For the beginner, short-haired breeds may be a better choice, since they require less maintenance than the long-haired breeds, which need almost daily brushing to prevent matting. With a short-haired guinea pig, a periodic gentle brushing is all that's needed to get rid of dirt or debris in the coat. Teddies, or Rex cavies have wiry hair that can be very curly or wavy. They can be "fluffed" by brushing from back to front (although they may not like this treatment...it's like petting a cat the wrong way).
If you have a long-haired guinea pig, brushing is essential to keep the coat untangled and free of debris. You may want to keep their hair trimmed, mainly at the back, where urine leaves hair matted and smelly.
If you have a male long-haired guinea pig, check to make sure that long hairs around his genital area are not getting stuck in the penis (which easily leads to infection or injury!) Although a Peruvian guinea pig with hair flowing on the ground is a beautiful sight, trimming the hair results in less matting and general ease of care for a pet guinea pig.
During brushing and/or trimming, the trick is to keep your guinea pig calm. I generally trim my long-haired girls on a flat surface, so they don't thrash about. Only rarely will a long-haired piggy submit to being brushed without wheeking loudly in protest!
Some guinea pigs will actually eat the hair from their long-haired cagemates, but there's really no explanation for that habit. It's referred to as "barbering," and it appears to be a personality thing.
I often get an email from a concerned person whose guinea pig has a white fluid in the eye. While grooming, the guinea pig may produce a white liquid in the eye, which is quite normal. Our tear ducts constantly wash away particles that lodge in our eyes; for guinea pigs, they have their own special eye cleaning solution.
Bathe your guinea pig only on an "as needed" basis. Don't bathe a guinea pig unless its coat is dirty or oily. Bathing removes natural oils in the skin and will dry out the coat.
That said, if you must bathe your guinea pig, it's best to use a small dishpan or bathroom sink with a washcloth in the bottom and warm, shallow water. Use a very mild shampoo such as baby or kitten shampoo, and work a small amount into the coat. If your guinea pig struggles, hold it gently. Keep your guinea pig's head out of the water, especially the ears and nose. Rinse well, and dry thoroughly.
Use a hair dryer on a warm, not hot, setting, to help dry the pig. Wet guinea pigs are very susceptible to colds, so keep them warm until they are completely dry. A vegetable treat is always good after a bath. I never bathe my girls during the winter, as my house is very old and can be a bit drafty. I must reiterate that guinea pigs, especially wet or damp ones, can become very ill if they get chills.
You can touch-up your guinea pig's beard and rear end, since those areas get dirty the quickest. You'll quickly become familiar with the orange post-carrot lips or sticky hair from melon dripping down the front of your piggy. This is easily cleaned off with a damp washcloth.
As for the rear end, occasional trimming is important to prevent matting in long-haired breeds. Sometimes I will dip just the bottom in some soapy water to get the matted hair soft before I do a trimming.
toenails: piggy pedicures
Clipping toenails can be hazardous, since it's mainly you holding a sharp instrument while trying to wrestle with a nervous guinea pig! It is best to be taught by an experienced piggy person or veterinarian first.
Basically, clipping a guinea pig's toenails is much like clipping a cat's: you get a gentle but firm grip on the foot, and trim, avoiding the nail quick (the blood vessel, which is that dark thing that you can see through the nail). Many guinea pigs can be held without a struggle to be clipped; some guinea pigs need to be wrapped tightly in a towel. Another method � possibly the best method, in my opinion � is simply holding the guinea pig against your chest or in your lap. Hold the piggy in one hand, and place his or her back against you. Use the fingers of that hand to hold the paw firmly, while you trim with the other hand. An even better idea is to hold the guinea pig while another person does the clipping.
Get a good grip on the paw, and try to prevent your guinea pig from squirming. Make sure you have a styptic pencil or powder (flour, cornstarch) on hand, to stop the bleeding in case you cut the quick. It is wise to invest in a good pair of toenail clippers for animals, as human nail clippers and even (gasp!) scissors can crush a piggy's toenail. I suggest trimming along the flat side of the nail, as this will mean less smooshing as you clip the nail.
While you're clipping away, you may notice what appears to be a soft "extra" toe. Leave it alone, or immerse in warm water to remove some of the dirt/poop. I learned the hard way: don't pull at this callous. You'll pull the toe pad skin right off, and your piggy will be very cross with you!
ears
Periodically check your guinea pig's ears for waxy material. Moisten a cotton swab with a very small amount of mineral oil and lightly clean the outer ear area. Use a clean swab each time you wipe the ear. DO NOT go deep into the ear! You can cause serious damage. If there is a large buildup of waxy material, you may want to take your guinea pig to a vet to check for mites. A funky smell can also indicate mites.
boys and girls
is it a boy or a girl?
sexual maturity and breeding
compatibility and separation anxiety
neutering
"How do I determine the sex of my guinea pig?" � This is probably the most frequently asked question among new guinea pig owners. Sexing young guinea pigs can be difficult, but it's not impossible. It's also not infallible; I adopted female guinea pig that was roomed with another "female" guinea pig - confirmed by an expert. However, I flipped both over, and WHOA, one was a boy! So, if you have a young piggy, check once, and then check again in a week or so. Heck, check again in another week or two; there have been cases where boys turned out to be girls, and vice versa.
is it a boy or a girl?
Male guinea pigs (boars) have testicles, which develop at a fairly young age. In babies, the testicles are not quite apparent, but it is still possible to decode their gender. Look at the genitals. Is there a faint "pucker" of skin? That is the retracted penis. If you press gently (and I do mean gently; this is a sensitive area, after all) above this doughnut-shaped area, you'll feel a small muscle spasm and the penis will pop out. Be very gentle when pressing. This process is uncomfortable to the guinea pig, and he may squirm. Make sure you give him a treat for this ordeal!
Female guinea pigs (sows) will have a "Y" shaped genital region, right next to the anus. If you look closely, you will notice that the genitals and the anal opening appear to be almost one and the same, due to the folding of the skin. Female guinea pigs are relatively flat, compared to male guinea pigs, but that's not enough of a distinction to make when you're trying to tell boys from girls.
sexual maturity and breeding
I will not discuss the breeding of guinea pigs on this site, because it is an advanced topic better left to those with the experience to handle complications, large numbers of guinea pigs, and medical issues.
Many beginners don't realize that guinea pigs reach sexual maturity quite early. Males are sexually active as early as 3 weeks, and should be observed closely. Males that exhibit behavior such as mounting should be promptly separated from the mother and any females, as they can breed. And it only takes a few seconds for a sow to become pregnant. Females can stay with the mother as long as needed. Guinea pigs can generally be separated from their mother at four to five weeks.
compatibility and separation anxiety
I was very upset the day that I had to put a divider in my girls' pen because Cordelia started having some issues with just about everyone in the herd. Separating a male guinea pig from another male, or a male from the rest of a female herd, or just a piggy with a solo personality is difficult. But guinea pigs can talk to each other through a barrier; I set up a panel of wire shelving so that Cordelia would see, smell and talk to the others without biting.
Generally, these groupings of (non-mating) guinea pigs work well:
All females, given that the hierarchy is defined and there are no disputes
One neutered male with a harem of females
Two males who were littermates, or who have been together since they were very young (but sexual maturity will bring a test for dominance, so be careful). Note that neutering males won't necessarily make them buddies.
An older male with a much younger male
Two males that are mellow, as long as one has not mated with a female recently (males are almost guaranteed to fight if a female or her scent is present)
If you find yourself in a position where you must separate a guinea pig from the rest of your herd, try to keep them as close as possible without causing stress or harm. A friend of mine has eight boys, all in pairs, trios or singly, depending on their personalities. When one recently died, she tried to mix up the pairings to see who would get along with who. Her boys' personalities range from mellow to downright hostile. Remember, it's personality more than gender that matters in compatibility.
neutering
This is a delicate topic, since most exotics vets do not have the expertise to perform this procedure without risks. I generally would not neuter a guinea pig as quickly as I would a cat or dog. However, that pressing issue of having one male among females brings up the question of neutering in order to keep a male as part of the guinea pig colony.
First, be aware of the risks involved. I was lucky enough to find an excellent vet when, in 1995, I had to get a companion for Basil when I had a full-time job. We neutered Basil, and carefully monitored his progress. He abscessed, but the vet had arranged for two post-op visits to monitor his progress. Basil healed nicely, and he and Emma became a cute little couple for several years. However, I have heard countless stories that did not have such a happy ending.
If you decide to pair a male with one or more females, and want to neuter him, research vets carefully. Be aware that after the surgery, he will need soft towels and supervision. He may very well end up on antibiotics, so you should understand the needs of administering a probiotic to balance the gut flora. Guinea pigs are excellent healers, but any invasive procedure needs to be handled with great care and concern. CavySpirit's "neutering" page is an excellent reference for learning about the risks involved with neutering.
Signs that your vet will be able to sucessfully neuter your guinea pig:
a history of successful guinea pig neuters--and not just two or three; a lot.
automatically will schedule one or two post-op visits to monitor healing.
suggests flora replacement, via Bene-Bac or other probiotic, as part of the antibiotic plan.
has good feedback from others (check around on lists, messageboards, etc).
will be up front about risks, and won't pass this procedure off as something simple
will tell you that abscesses are common after invasive procedures, and will prepare you
life with your cavy
training your kids to be responsible
language
picking up and handling your piggy
guinea pigs and other pets
guinea pigs do the weirdest things...
You have (hopefully) learned how to properly feed, house, and care for your guinea pig. Those are the basics. There is one more aspect of having a guinea pig: companionship! You have learned that guinea pigs are sociable animals; they will learn to trust you and enjoy your attention.
A favorite quote of mine is by Dick King-Smith, author of I Love Guinea Pigs: "One especially nice thing about guinea pigs is that if you handle them regularly, and carry them around, stroke them, talk to them, and make a fuss over them, they become really fond of you."
training your kids to be responsible
You already know that being a responsible pet owner requires a little effort. But you may have also thought that guinea pigs are an excellent first pet to teach children how to be responsible. My advice: give your child a plant first and see if it's still thriving in six months. Many children tire easily of the responsibilitie involved with caring for a living thing, so the plant test is a safe introduction to long-term care.
"Guinea pig" has come to have a second meaning � animals or people used in an experimental stage. I've been a human guinea pig myself, testing new products for companies that don't test on animals. But I have a choice. Animals suffer the consequences when in the hands of irresponsible people, children and adults alike. Even a well-meaning person can put a guinea pig's life in jeopardy if he or she does not know proper care for guinea pigs.
Please, if you are a parent reading this page, remember that the care of the guinea pig may fall into your hands. They live for a while (5-8 years) and need a committed human companion. (Of course, this is true for any small animal.) Inspect the cage regularly; ensure that the guinea pig is getting proper care. This isn't a toy; it's a life. I cannot stress enough, guinea pigs are social, lively animals, and they need a stimulating, safe environment. Too often, the novelty of a pet wears off after a few months. Make sure that your child�and you�are ready for the commitment.
language
Guinea pigs "talk" with a series of sounds, such as wheeeeek, chutter, drrr, and short wheeks. You'll learn when your guinea pig is happy and when it's angry; a very long wheeeeeeek! will signal "gimme food!" just as it can signal "ow!" As a piggy parent, you'll be able to notice the urgency or pain in the wheek. During floor time, especially if you have several guinea pigs, you'll be entertained by a melody of short wheeks. This is piggy talk. If you feed your guinea pig(s) at the same time each day, you will end up with a very accurate wheeking alarm clock; a rustle of plastic can result in a deafening, demanding wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeek! And it's music to your ears. Portia, my elder piggy, will talk to you from the pen while on her hind legs, while running around on the floor, and while you hold her, all of which just makes her irresistible. Bianca, the more reserved Peruvian, is usually silent unless there's food around.
Guinea pigs have quite an extensive array of sounds and actions to display their emotions. They show that they are happy by popcorning, which is basically a jump and wiggle in the air. (Ever seen popcorn pop?) It looks like a spasm of sorts, but it's just extra energy being released. And it generally means you've got a happy piggy. I often compare popcorning to cats having "the rips." Both are releases of energy, but guinea pigs don't tear across your pillows at 3 AM when you're trying to sleep!
Rumblestrutting is a deep vibrato purr accompanied by a wiggling rear end, also referred to as motorboating. This is used for dominance and in some cases, aggression. Males will often rumblestrut to show that they are in charge; however, females will often do the same. It's pretty odd, seeing a little guinea pig try to act tough and intimidating! Unless, of course, chattering (below) is involved. Two guinea pigs can seriously injure each other in a fight, so be aware of aggressive behavior, especially when introducing a new guinea pig to an established one. Rumblestrutting is also a courtship maneuver; males will rumblestrut and secrete a scent to mark their territory, and "claim" a female."
Teeth chattering is undeniably aggression or anger, and is usually followed by a nip or a fight unless the offending action is stopped. Don't confuse teeth chattering for the milder "chompchompchomp" of your guinea pig simply sharpening its teeth (much like us gnashing ours). Teeth chattering is loud, and shows that your piggy is pretty ticked off. Once chattering of teeth has commenced, a bite is almost certain to follow. Guinea pigs housed together that exhibit this behavior need to be closely monitored, even separated.
When guinea pigs fight � often two mature males � they will rumblestrut, chatter their teeth, and push their bodies higher with their legs (to intimidate the other). If one does not run off, then it gets ugly; guinea pigs will rip ears and bite deeply when fighting. This is why beginning guinea pig enthusiasts should be extra cautious and attentive until they understand the personalities of their guinea pigs.
picking up and handling your piggy
Guinea pigs, unlike other small animals, have more "body" than they do bone structure. In other words, they are heavy for their size. For this reason, it is essential to fully support them when you are picking them up. A wiggling guinea pig can easily injure itself. Always have one hand underneath them when you pick them up, and never, ever hold them so that their hind legs are dangling. If you end up with a piggy that doesn't enjoy being picked up, and squirms, be extra careful!
Guinea pigs generally love to be cuddled, so you can hold them for a long time. Children should be taught how to properly hold a guinea pig; young children should only hold guinea pigs in their laps while seated (and with an adult nearby). Most people hold their guinea pigs against the chest, with one hand underneath the rump. Many guinea pigs love to nuzzle against the neck. No matter how you hold a guinea pig, however, it's always a great experience. Don't walk around with a guinea pig, because they may get frightened and jump out of your grasp. A fall can be fatal to a guinea pig!
Returning a guinea pig to her cage requires care, since some guinea pigs are prone to leap once they see Casa Cavy in sight. To prevent injury, handle your guinea pig firmly with both hands. Many people suggest returning your piggy to her home rear-end first.
guinea pigs with other pets
roommates
I've often been asked whether a guinea pig can cohabitate with rabbits, mice, and other small animals. The answer is generally "no," except for mellow dwarf rabbits. Even then, it's wise to be cautious until you know that your cagemates will get along well.
Guinea pigs have different dietary needs from other small mammals, and feeding the same diet to a guinea pig and a rabbit will result in deficiencies. Some people who allow a dwarf rabbit and a guinea pig to be roomies generally take extra steps to ensure that, come mealtime, they are separated. Both will eat hay, so you can keep the hay rack full.
The biggest risk of keeping guinea pigs with other animal is injuries sustained from playing. Guinea pigs will romp, jump, chase and butt each other, but other small animals often play much rougher. One kick from a rabbit's hind leg can cause great harm to a piggy. So can the quick jab of a sharp paw from a rat or ferret.
The main idea here is CAUTION. You will have to monitor your new cagemates very closely, and you will need to be vigilant about care for all of them.
predators, perhaps
Dogs and cats need to be supervised once you introduce a guinea pig to your home. Even an expert at guinea pigs can come home to find that a wayward dog has gotten into the hutches. I have three cats, but (thankfully) all of them are rather scared of the guinea pigs. You can build a dog-proof or cat-proof cage yourself by using wire shelving or another strong material. Be aware of your dog's personality; Greyhounds, for example, are bred to chase a quick rabbit, so a quick-moving guinea pig means "appetizer." A mellow, well-behaved dog can actually be a great friend to a guinea pig. Same for cats.
Introduce your guinea pig to your dog or cat by having someone else there, with one of you holding the guinea pig and the other holding the dog or cat a few inches away. Depending on the initial reactions, try a more open introduction, or protect your guinea pig(s) accordingly. But don't ever leave guinea pigs roaming about alone unsupervised - animal instincts are just too powerful.
Got a snake? Make sure his cage is secure, and keep him far away. A hungry six-foot boa...well, I certainly wouldn't want to tempt instinct!
guinea pigs do the weirdest things...
Yes, they're cute, and hundreds of pages by obsessed guinea pig enthusiasts can't be wrong: they're funny. Hold a guinea pig above your eye level and look at the lips. Check out how the whiskers flop back and forth, and the nose goes in and out as she breathes. If you're not already laughing, put your finger on her throat, and watch the bottom lip flop down - or see if she raises her head up so you can scratch her neck.
Let your piggy take a nap on your bed, and watch him stick his legs out as he totally relaxes. If you move even the slightest bit, he'll jump up to attention, and possibly lose his balance if he was in a deep sleep.
Guinea pigs have some strange habits, too: they are sometimes alarming, but remember: these are perfectly normal things that guinea pigs do:
eating poop. Copraphagy is a practice where an animal will actually eat its own droppings. Guinea pigs will typically rear up on their hind legs and grab a pellet of poo in their mouth. The digestive process sometimes does not remove all of the nutrients from food, so the result is a smaller pellet that can be re-ingested, something like a little poo vitamin. This can be compared with, say, a cow chewing its cud.
eating another piggy's hair. Barbering bothers me, too, but if you keep your long-haired piggy trimmed, the other one may not eat so much. This is one of those mysteries, but thankfully doesn't seem to cause too much harm to the munching piggy.
operatic singing. Chirping, singing, or otherwise melodic sounds coming from a guinea pig will stop nearby piggies in their tracks. This performance remains a mystery, and only a few guinea pig owners have heard this phenomenon. Two of my girls were singers; the first, Emma, made it sound like there was a bird in my room, chirping. The second one, Ophelia, would actually warble something of a birdsong. All the other girls in the pen stood, frozen, looking in her direction. I've also witnessed a guinea pig chirping out of terror, so this habit is not necessarily a positive one. Perhaps it was used in the wild as a means of warning; perhaps it's a full-moon-type thing. But if you ever hear it, you'll be moved.
popcorning and Running About. Popcorning is pretty straightforward: happy piggy, extra energy, jump around. However, some guinea pigs suddenly break into a run around their pen for no apparent reason, often knocking bedding and toys everywhere. I'd love to actually clock how fast they can go; for fat little eggplant-shaped animals, they can sure MOVE.
That Blank Stare. I affectionately refer to this as "Emma Face," for my second guinea pig, Emma, had this blank expression that left you wondering what was going on in there. Cordelia, at left, is a
a very handy FAQ for guinea pig beginners
All of this information can be found in the Care section of CavyMadness. Please visit those pages for more in-depth answers to these questions.
I just got a guinea pig. Help!
What do I need when adopting a new guinea pig?
Why do I have to quarantine a new guinea pig?
One piggy or two?
What do I need to set up a cage?
What's the best bedding to use?
What types of toys should I provide for my guinea pig?
Do guinea pigs like the rodent wheels and big plastic balls?
What do I feed my guinea pig?
How do I provide my guinea pig with vitamin C? I think he has scurvy.
I just adopted a guinea pig. I think it may be sick...
How do I treat lice / mites / fungus?
My guinea pig is coughing / has a runny nose / seems to have a cold.
Ick! Why is my guinea pig eating his poop?
Does my guinea pig have an eye injury? There's a white liquid in her eye.
My guinea pig's teeth are broken. What do I do?
Do I need to bathe my guinea pig?
How do I tell whether my guinea pig is a boy or a girl?
I'm 9. How can I convince my parents to get me a guinea pig?
What does it mean when they purr / jump about / wheek loudly?
I just got a guinea pig. Help!
Ah, the chorus of the "now what do I do?" crowd. Since this is such a general question, I suggest that you a) buy a book that will serve as a handy reference; b) visit the Messageboard to talk to many guinea pig enthusiasts who are willing to help out those new to guinea pigs; and c) if you need one-on-one mentoring, check out the PigPals program.
CavyMadness is designed as a portal to get you started. Many, many sites out there go into greater detail, and guinea pig people love to share their knowledge and experiences. Half the fun of these little furballs is learning all about them!
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What do I need when adopting a new guinea pig?
A well-designed cage with a solid bottom;
Newspaper and bedding;
Hay rack and water bottle holder;
Ceramic food dishes, untippable;
Nesting items, such as tunnels and shelters;
Things to climb onto or tunnel under;
Storage bins for hay, pellet food, bedding, and other supplies;
An appointment at a vet, for a well-piggy introductory checkup;
Medical needs, including toenail clippers, styptic pencil,
Neosporin, mineral oil and cotton swabs
A transport container of sorts for vet visits, trips to Grandma's,
etc.; a small cat/dog carrier is ideal. Place a towel in it so your
cavy can burrow and feel safe.
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Why do I have to quarantine a new guinea pig?
If you introduce a second (or third, or fourth...) guinea pig into your home, you must keep it separate from the other piggies until you are sure that the new piggie is free from any illnesses. The average quarantine period is two weeks. Always introduce guinea pigs gradually, on a neutral surface such as the living-room floor.
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One piggy or two?
I advocate getting any pets in pairs, as the companionship while you're away is essential for their happiness. A lone piggy will pine for you while you're away, and will be very bored. Remember that these are social, lively animals that need a little excitement and interaction in their day.
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What do I need to set up a cage?
Your cavy's home must have a solid bottom, no wires, to prevent foot injury, and plenty of ventilation. Give as much room as you can so that your piggy can romp; I would highly suggest getting the biggest cage you can fit into your room. CavyCages.com is a comprehensive site that will give you a lot of ideas. The best cages are custom-built, as most retail cages are either too small or not well-ventilated.
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What's the best bedding to use?
Don't even consider cedar or that weird green stuff in pet shops. Aspen and pine wood shavings seem to be a very popular choice, since they are inexpensive and control odor fairly well. Pine, especially, is often debated because it contains fragrant oils in its natural state, but oven/kiln-dried pine is available. If you want to use pine, look specifically for kiln-dried pine shavings at farm/feed stores and sawmills; this type of pine is unbelievably cheap, and has been oven-dried to remove the oils. The shavings should be coarse, about the size of breakfast cereal flakes, and there should be no dust. And they should not smell pungent. Some manufacturers don't remove all the oil, so you'll have to do a bit of searching to find the safe kiln-dried pine.
Recycled wood pulp bedding, such as Care-Fresh, is immensely popular, but is costly. They don't use dye nor chemicals, and it's virtually dust-free. A soft pile of hay on top of newspaper or other bedding makes a great burrowing spot for your cavy. But beware of sharp ends that can poke your cavy in the eye.
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What types of toys should I provide for my guinea pig?
Here's where you get to be creative. A house can be as elaborate as you can build it, or as simple as a cardboard box. My suggestion: make it a three-sided shelter, so your guinea pig is under something, but can still see you.
Bricks are good for climbing onto, as long as they are clean and your guinea pig doesn't start eating them. In the summer, my girls are stretched out on bricks and large pieces of slate tile, which stay cool despite the hot days. Other climbing toys include wood blocks, flowerpots, cut tree branches, and wooden platforms with ramps. Remember to keep climbing things low; a fall can seriously injure a guinea pig, and they're a little daft when it comes heights.
Try anything, as long as it a)can be eaten or chewed without risk of choking; b)does not have sharp edges or anything that can harm a guinea pig; and c)won't take up too much room in the cage. Some guinea pigs love squeaky toys, or little cat toys with bells in them. Others will try to destroy anything you put in the cage! You'll have to try a few different things to see what toys your guinea pig likes.
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Do guinea pigs like the rodent wheels and big plastic balls?
Do not buy rodent wheels for your guinea pig, even if they say "for guinea pigs." Guinea pigs are simply not made for them: they can easily break a foot in a rodent wheel.
Those big plastic balls are marketed as being ideal for guinea pigs, but 99% of the guinea pigs in the world will sit, terrified, in the ball. This plastic ball is too disorienting for guinea pigs; it cuts them off from their environment, and doesn't allow them to really see where they're going. It's much better to just let your piggy roam in the kitchen, with a few towels thrown on the floor.
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What do I feed my guinea pig?
If you must ask this question outright, please read the Food section in the Care pages. I often end up just cutting and pasting that text into an email anyway...
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How do I provide my guinea pig with vitamin C? I think he has scurvy.
Too little vitamin C in their diet can indeed cause scurvy; signs include loss of movement in the legs. Because vitamin C degrades rapidly once added to water, most liquid supplements are useless by the time you buy them off the shelf. The best source of C is actually ascorbic acid in powder form added to water. Ascorbic acid is found in whole food and nutrition stores. If you use this method, though, you must refresh the water daily. If you use a vitamin C tablet, get one that does not have any additives, including sugar.
Just as we should ideally get all our nutrients from food instead of vitamin supplements, the ideal way to provide enough vitamin C in your guinea pigs' diet is to feed veggies high in C.
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I just adopted a guinea pig. I think it may be sick...
It is always a good idea to take your new guinea pig to a veterinarian for a checkup. The vet will be able to check your guinea pig's teeth, ears, and coat. It is also important to know your guinea pig's weight, since weight loss is the most common signs of illness in a guinea pig.
Find a vet that is experienced with guinea pigs! Many vets can be certified as exotics vets without treating any guinea pigs. If you ask a shelter in your area, or post to a newsgroup, you should find an experienced guinea pig vet. And one last suggestion: Don't wait until you need one; find a vet in your area and keep the phone number handy. If your guinea pig is ill, you'll need to seek treatment as soon as possible.
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How do I treat lice / mites / fungus?
For mites, you must go to a vet to confirm that mites are present. Treatment usually requires two shots of Ivermectin. Don't try to treat the mites yourself; they are under the skin and must be treated by injection. There is no dip or ointment that will help.
Lice, on the other hand, can usually be treated at home. Basically, any lice treatment suitable for cats will work for guinea pigs. Make sure that the lice dip contains Pyrethrin, and massage into the coat. Do NOT dip the head; take a small cloth with the solution on it and rub on the head. Dry thoroughly, as in bathing. Before you place your guinea pig back into the cage, change all the bedding and clean the cage with the lice dip, to kill any lice that may be remaining.
Two common types of fungal infections are Trichophyton mentagrophytes and Microsporum canis. The skin is usually scaly or flaky, and your piggy will no doubt be scratching at the area. Hair loss usually results.
Treatment for fungal infections is fairly easy; topical shampoos and creams are available in your local pharmacy. Tea tree oil is an organic option; Miconazole cream, Lamisil (2x/day for 1-2 weeks), Veltrim/clotrimazole and Nizoral shampoo (twice in a week) are all topical creams that work well. In severe cases, Griseofulvin, an oral medication, can be prescribed by your veterinarian.
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My guinea pig is coughing / has a runny nose / seems to have a cold.
Always consult a veterinarian if your guinea pig has a cough, runny nose, or trouble breathing (place your ear against your guinea pig's chest and listen; if the breathing sounds "wet," irregular or "clicky," get it checked). An untreated "cold" or upper respiratory infection is almost always fatal for a guinea pig. Signs to watch for include runny nose, crusty eyes, irregular breathing, loss of appetite, and coughing/sneezing. If you suspect a cold, it's best to seek treatment as quick as possible.
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Ick! Why is my guinea pig eating his poop?
Copraphagy is a practice where an animal will actually eat its own droppings. Guinea pigs will typically rear up on their hind legs and grab a pellet in their mouth. The digestive process sometimes does not remove all of the nutrients available in food, resulting in a small "poo vitamin." This can be compared with, say, a cow chewing its cud.
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Does my guinea pig have an eye injury? There's a white liquid in her eye.
While grooming, the guinea pig may produce a white liquid in the eye, which is quite normal. Our tear ducts constantly wash away particles that lodge in our eyes; for guinea pigs, they have their own special eye cleaning solution.
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My guinea pig's teeth are broken. What do I do?
A guinea pig's teeth grow continuously, so it is important that they have enough hay and other roughage in their diet to wear the teeth down. If the front teeth are broken, they must be clipped to an even level so that the bite is even. Keep in mind that the teeth are always growing; if a tooth is actually missing, it will grow back as long as the root remains. You may need to feed your guinea pig soft food, if the alignment is affected, until the teeth grow back.
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Do I need to bathe my guinea pig?
Bathe your guinea pig only on an "as needed" basis. Don't bathe a guinea pig unless its coat is dirty or oily. Bathing removes natural oils in the skin and will dry out the coat. That said, if you must bathe your guinea pig, it's best to use a small dishpan or bathroom sink with a washcloth in the bottom and warm, shallow water. Use a very mild shampoo such as baby or kitten shampoo, and work a small amount into the coat. If your guinea pig struggles, hold it gently.
Keep your guinea pig's head out of the water, especially the ears and nose. Rinse well, and dry thoroughly. Use a hair dryer on a warm, not hot, setting, to help dry the pig. Wet guinea pigs are very susceptible to colds, so keep them warm until they are completely dry. A vegetable treat is always good after a bath.
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How do I tell whether my guinea pig is a boy or a girl?
This is probably the most frequently asked question among new guinea pig owners. Sexing young guinea pigs can be difficult, but it's not impossible.
Male guinea pigs (boars) have testicles, which develop at a fairly young age. All of us are familiar with testicles. They hang. In young mammals, they don't hang as much, but they are still apparent. But if a bulge is not apparent, look at the genitals. Is there a faint "pucker" of skin? That is the retracted penis. If you press gently (and I do mean gently; this is a sensitive area, after all) above this doughnut-shaped area, the penis will pop out. Be very gentle when pressing. The penis will also appear distinctly separate from the anal opening.
Female guinea pigs (sows) will have a "Y" shaped genital region, right next to the anus. If you look closely, you will notice that the genitals and the anal opening appear to be almost one and the same. Female guinea pigs are relatively flat, compared to male guinea pigs, but that's not enough of a distinction to make when you're trying to tell boys from girls.
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I'm 9. How can I convince my parents to get me a guinea pig?
Parents: you may think that guinea pigs are an excellent "first pet" to teach children how to be responsible. This is a thought that has landed hundreds of guinea pigs in shelters; please remember that the care of the guinea pig may fall into your hands. They live for a while (5-8 years) and need a committed human companion. (Of course, this is true for any small animal.) Inspect the cage regularly; ensure that the guinea pig is getting proper care. This isn't a toy; it's a life. I cannot stress enough, guinea pigs are social, lively animals, and they need a stimulating, safe environment. Too often, the novelty of a pet wears off after a few months. Make sure that your child - and you�are ready for the commitment.
Kids: First, get a book (check out the Boffo Books section). Buy a small plant. Make sure you understand the needs of the guinea pig, wait for six months. If, in six months, you are still interested, the plant is still alive, and you understand what it takes to raise a healthy, happy piggy, then you have my blessing.
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What does it mean when they purr/jump about/wheek loudly?
Guinea pigs "talk" with a series of sounds. You'll learn when your guinea pig is happy and when it's angry; a very long wheeeeeeek! will signal "gimme food!" just as it can signal "ow!" As a piggy parent, you'll be able to notice the urgency or pain in the wheek.
Guinea pigs have quite an extensive array of sounds and actions to display their emotions. They show that they are happy by popcorning, which is basically a jump and wiggle in the air. Rumblestrutting is a deep vibrato purr accompanied by a wiggling rear end, also referred to as motorboating. This is used for dominance and in some cases, aggression. Males will often rumblestrut to show that they are in charge; however, females will often do the same. Two guinea pigs can seriously injure each other in a fight, so be aware of aggressive behavior, especially when introducing a new guinea pig to an established one. Rumblestrutting is also a courtship maneuver; males will rumblestrut and secrete a scent to mark their territory, and "claim" a female."
Teeth chattering is undeniably aggression or anger, and is usually followed by a nip or a fight unless the offending action is stopped. Don't confuse teeth chattering for the milder "chompchompchomp" of your guinea pig simply sharpening its teeth (much like us gnashing ours). Teeth chattering is loud, and shows that your piggy is pretty ticked off. Once chattering of teeth has commenced, a bite is almost certain to follow. Guinea pigs housed together that exhibit this behavior need to be closely monitored, even separated
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