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Through out the Middle Ages (especially in Northwestern Europe) clothing was typically worn in layers, the chemise (a linen under-shirt) servers as the foundation of the wardrobe in which an additional linen, wool or silk kirtle was worn over it. The nature of this garment is probably to retain additional body heat, by the 13th century the chemise became smaller closer-fitting simple white linen shirt. When worn under a kirtle or cotte of the period the chemise would be virtually covered and concealed from sight, for exception, at the collar possibly. Not only do contemporary illustrations bare evidence of the existence of this undershirt in this time period, but a similar linen shirt to the ones see in such records survives in a relative preserved condition to this day. The shirt is said to have belonged to St. Louis (King Louis IX of France) and is known as the St. Louis Shirt.
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