Etosha National Park

16^th - 20^th July

Well, what can one say about one of Africa's best and well know game reserves. We spent three days in total in the park and saw a huge variety of game. Etosha is different from every other game reserve we have been to in that the camps are placed next to waterholes and a spotlight is shone on the waterhole all night. This means that the patient amongst us can sit on a ledge just away from the waterhole and watch the nocturnal game, all night.

The other difference in Etosha is one which is mirrored around Namibia and come across unfortunately like a bit of a scam. The fees for game reserves and even private campsites is something along the lines of a per site per night fee, a per vehicle fee, and a per person per day entrance fee. Asking how much a campsite is for the night is a pretty complex issue. It generally involves a blank look, a scratch of the head, a few "hummms" and a dive for the trusty calculator. Unfortunately the whole structure leaves your earnest tourist feeling somewhat ripped off.

We didn't manage to get bookings for Etosha because we were told in Swakopmunt that it was fully booked. Being pretty African savvy though we were pretty sure we'd find a spot so off we went, trusting fate and the inefficiencies of Africa. Sure enough, there are more than enough campsites to go around. Apparently their computer booking system only has a limited number of sites listed, but there are substantially more in reality. Go figure!

Our first night we spent in Halali which is the middle of the three lodges within the park. The waterhole was a big social gathering point for all the surrounding game. A chance to put up their feel, have a cool drink and discuss the days events - in front of a gasping horde of camera clicking, video whirling tourists. In a couple of hours watching we saw a number of black rhino (there are only approx. 2500 surviving black rhino in Africa), stacks of elephant complete with young, hyena (ugly bastards), jackal and porcupine. It was such a joy being able to game view but not being in a stuffy, hot car. Late at night the hyenas ensured that our sleeptime was filled with anxious dreams (especially those sleeping under the stars) with their eerie booooohoooopppp's. Very African and very unnerving.

The second and third night we spent in Namatoni, which is the furthest camp East. The site was much more spread out and had grass - a pleasant change from the dry dust of the Halali campsite. The Namatoni waterhole suffered badly from competing waterholes all around though. Scott - the most patient of us foursome - spent endless hours the first afternoon/night waiting for game to come down to the waterhole. He was rewarded with countless jackals (although most of them lived within the campsite anyway) and a few ducks. The most exciting event was when one of the jackals made a halfhearted attempt at snapping up a duck for dinner. The duck didn't stop quacking for hours after that. It's little ordered life had clearly been put in complete turmoil.

Scott and Rob spent a reasonably nervous two nights in Namatoni. Sleeping outside when there seem to be more jackals within the camp fence than without, can be a bit scary. Sleeping with a bloody great big hunting knife in a sleeping bag is equally unnerving (not to mention the comfort factor).

We then said a fond farewell to Etosha and its teeming game, and made our way to Tsumeb. Tsumeb has a sad little story. The town was basically supported by a big copper mine. From the look of the town now, it was once a very prosperous little place. It is the site where Namibia had its first serious lesson in capitalism, just after independence. A Union of mineworkers formed on the mine. The Union was relentless and during one strike the workers allowed the melted copper to solidify in the melting pot. After that the mine was put into liquidation and the mine was closed. Now there is chronic unemployment in the area, and the town has lost its major benefactor.

Mom and Sunara are going to be leaving from Tsumeb, for the comforts of Mom's little house back in George. For non-campers, they have both done exceedingly well to cope with the dust, cold and discomforts of being squashed into the old landy. Many family memories from this trip, that is for sure. For Scott and Rob, there is another wait in Tsumeb for a starter motor from South Africa. Once Nyathi is back in 100% working order (hmmm, questionable that) we head off to the Caprivi and into Zambia.