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Snowmass and
Hagerman first thing in the morning.
The
drive to the Snomass trailhead turned out to be quite an adventure in
itself. My target trailhead was the southwest trailhead at
Lead King Basin, about 6 miles east of the town of Marble. I
passed through Marble, and started up the dirt road.
Initially the road was pretty tame. About a mile passed town,
there was an intersection. I could either go via the north
Snowmass and
Hagerman from Geneva Lake.
route, or the south route. I couldn’t remember which road was
supposed to be the easiest to navigate, so I chose the northern
road. Within the first mile, it started to get pretty
rough. I should mention that there were signs that mentioned
that the road was for 4x4 travel only. About 2 miles passed
the intersection I missed a turn. I was watching my Garmin
Nuvi GPS, and it told me that I was no longer on the road.
But, I chose to ignore my GPS, thinking that it must have lost the
First shot
of the west slopes of Snowmass.
signal in the tree cover. Meanwhile, it was approaching 8 pm
at night, and it was starting to get dark. Needless to say, I
was traveling south, and away from the proper dirt road. My
road almost immediately started to go up hill. The road got
extremely rough. There were several points where it was
barely passable. There was even a point where the road had
been re-routed because a huge tree had fallen over the initial
path. My speed on this 4x4 road was barely hiking speed –
maybe 3-4 miles per hour. I continued up hill. The
The lower
boulder field on Snowmass.
rental car was taking a light beating, but it was handling this nasty
road like a trooper – although was an Explorer. I can
honestly say that this was the worst road that I have ever driven
on. And, I’ve driven on some very rough roads in
Colorado. Soon enough it was totally dark outside.
I was still heading uphill, and unknown to me, I was several miles off
the correct road.
The west
slopes route on Snowmass.
I finally got to a point where there was a turn.
Frustrated, I got out my other GPS, my Garmin Vista. This GPS
was designed for trails, so it would get a signal better, regardless of
the trees. I was confused at first when the Vista indicated
that I was located midway between the north and south roads to Lead
King Basin. From my memory I knew that this point was a
freaking mountain. I finally figured it out and realized that
The initial
crux at the top of the boulder field.
I had made a wrong turn, and I was on top of a freaking
mountain. I was afraid to go back the way that I came – and
also a little stubborn. So, I continued forward thinking that
there had to be another road going down the other side. I
should mention that the night sky was clear, and it was almost a full
moon. So, even though it was dark outside, I was starting to
get a glimpse of what was just off my road. I could see
Class 3
scrambling up the west slopes with boulders perched above.
mountains, and I was as high as they were. And, I could
clearly see that there were significant drop-offs on both sides of my
road. I continued forward a bit more, and the road
stopped! I had hit a dead end, and there was no way to turn
around. I couldn’t see far off the left or right side of the
road, but I knew that they dropped off. I had to drive
backwards to that last intersection that I saw. Luckily I was
on top, so the backwards driving was on a flat section of
road. I backed up about 300 yards, and turned around to go
back down the way I came. The drive down wasn’t as bad as I
Class 3
scrambling up the west slopes.
feared it would be. I was starting to get better at driving
this 4x4 stuff. And, the Explorer was getting better at it
also. It probably took me 40 minutes to get up the hill, and
another 30 minutes to get back down. It was running on 9 pm
at night now – an hour after I had planned to be at the trailhead.
As I got back down to the proper road, I chickened out, and decided to
go all the way back to the main intersection. My mind was
The Snowmass
summit geomarker.
shot and I was exhausted. I would get back to the
intersection and decided how to proceed. I got back to the
intersection, and decided to go ahead and try it again, but this time
going by the south road, and this time I would not ignore my Garmin
Nuvi if it told me I was off road. I continued carefully and
cautiously. At about a mile in, I pulled over to let three
4x4 vehicles going the other direction pass me by. The lead
vehicle stopped and rolled down his window. He said, “I
thought we were the only ones crazy enough to be on this road at
Capital Peak
from the summit of Snowmass.
night.” I told him that I was heading to Lead King
Basin. He seemed alright with that and continued on his
way. After they passed, I continued. About 4 miles
down the road, I passed through a small town called Crystal. I
was surprised to see a small town way back in the middle of this
nightmare road. I continued passed the town (about 100 yards
long), and got to an intersection. To go to Lead King Basin,
I would take a left. At this intersection there was another
sign warning of the 4x4 nature of the road. I thought to
Rob at the
summit of Snowmass.
myself, “how much worse can this get?” I continued, going up
hill again. About 100 yards passed the intersection, I found
a boulder right in the middle of the road with no room for me to drive
around it. I was defeated. There was no way that I
was going to drive all the way back and try the north road
again. Then, I thought to myself, this rock isn’t much bigger
than the ones that I move around for my landscaping. The key
was just being able to roll and turn it until I got it off the
The first
part of the Hagerman travers.
road. So, I pushed, pulled, tugged, and ultimately got the rock off the road. Whew!
I continued down the road again. Ultimately I reached the
Lead King Basin area. It was after 10 pm at this
point. I passed by a sign that said, “National Park Parking
Area.” I continued up a little more to the point where I
thought the actual trailhead was. There was a single vehicle
parked at the trailhead area. I decided to just go ahead and
park back down at the parking lot. I reached the parking lot,
and breathed a sigh of relief. I was physically and mentally
The mid part
of the Hagerman travers.
exhausted. I check the Explorer to make sure that there was
no damage and that there was nothing leaking from it. I
should mention that the SUV had hit bottom on rocks several times along
the road. And, it had been bounced around pretty
good. I have an Explorer at home, and I’ve never challenged
it like this. I have a whole new respect for this vehicle
now. I prepped my stuff for the next days hike, and went to
bed in the back of the SUV. Sorry for so much bandwidth on
the drive to the trailhead. But, this was definitely an
The final
part of the Hagerman traverse.
adventure for me.
The following morning I decided to allow myself to sleep in a
bit. I didn’t get up until 5 am. When I woke up, I
kind of just sat there for a while before I started to get ready to
go. I got dressed and gathered my stuff for the
trail. I left the car, and started out of the parking
lot. Almost immediately I noticed a trailhead sign,
indicating, “Geneva Lake”, my destination. I followed the
Geneva Lake
during the descent.
trail. I don’t know if I missed a turn, but the trail lead
back to the 4x4 road, then back off the road again.
Ultimately, about 0.1 mile up the road it passed by the spot where I
thought the trailhead was. I knew that I was on
track. I followed the trail north. To the north I
could hear a waterfall. As it started to get light outside, I
could see that my route would be climbing the slopes along the
waterfall. The trail switchbacked up the hill, and soon I was
Great shot
of Snowmass and Hagerman during the drive out at the top of the Lead King
Basin 4x4 road switchbacks.
approaching Geneva Lake. Time to the lake was around an
hour. I continued passed the lake. I passed all the
campsites around the lake, passing by site #4 as I left the lake
area. At this point it was starting to get light
outside. I continued along the trail, until the trail reached
the base of Snowmass. I should say at this point that the
trail to the base of Snowmass is very clear, and very easy to
follow. It is well worn. The only turns that I took
were somewhat obvious, and if I remember correctly, most turns were
left turns.
At the base of Snowmass, the route up was pretty clear. My
route would take me directly up one of the main gullies.
First I would climb a short boulder field. At the top of the
boulder field there were several options for gaining the next part of
the route. Straight, looked like two class 3 or class 4 water
falls. Just to the left was a wet and muddy stepped upclimb. I chose the wet upclimb. It was probably a
mild class 3. At the top of the wet climb, I continued onto
class 2+ or class 3 terrain. As I continued upwards, I
decided to stay out of the gully. Instead I chose to climb
just to the left of the gully. The route was very steep, and
there were several very large boulders on the route above me.
Most were the size of automobiles, and they were pitched on end,
sticking up out of the mountain precariously. They looked
like they could bust loose at any moment. My thought was that
these boulders would fall towards the center of the gully if they did
come loose. Although the gully travel would be easier, I didn’t
want to be in that gully (aka bowling alley) if rock started
falling. I continued up the route. At times I was
following loose dirt. At other times I was slab climbing
large rocks. None of the climbing was very hard.
All of it was class 3 or easier. But, the route was very
steep. I found myself going in sprints of 30-50 feet at a
time. I’d stopped for a quick breath then sprint for another
30 feet. As I got towards the top the route got even
steeper. The most technically challenging climbing was
towards the top. It stayed class 3, but it was steep class
3. I ultimately made the top in 3 hours 50 minutes from the
trailhead. My goal was to beat 4 hours. When I
reached the top, I was surprised to see two other people
there. I had been so use to hiking alone that they literally
scared the crap out of me when they said, "hi," as I approached the
top. I should mention that I was the only person on the Lead
King Basin route today. These people had come from another route.
I said, "hi" to the folks on top. I can’t remember the names,
but they were from North Carolina and Virginia. They was
visiting fourteener hikers like myself. As we talked,
another guy – from Washington state – came up. This was the
most people that I’d seen on a summit during my whole trip. I
chatted with them for a few minutes, then they started their
descent. I snacked, took pictures and video, then started my
descent. I should mention that I was thinking seriously about
doing the traverse to Hagerman. That route involves at least
two class 5.0 moves, and at least 2 hours for the traverse. I
decided that I was just not interested in this today. I’d try
it another day. I was tired and ready to be done.
I continued my descent. The initial steep down climb was
slow. My first 1000 feet took 40 minutes to
descend. As the terrain got a bit easier – and less steep –
my second 1000 feet of descent took 30 minutes. I made the
wet down climb. Just for kicks and giggles, I chose a
technical class 4 down climb option to gain the boulder
field. I continued down the boulder field and back to the
main trail. On the main trail, I continued to the
lake. At the bottom of the lake, I spotted several young
trout in the creek. I continued downhill. The trail
was easy, but my legs were tired. I was really ready to be
done with this trip. I should mention that the weather was
beautiful. On the descent I stripped down to shorts and a
short sleeve t-shirt. If I weren’t stressed out about the 4x4
drive out, I would have probably enjoyed the hike out more. I
finally got back to the car in around 6 and ½ hours for the whole
trip. The drive out was relatively uneventful. I
chose to go ahead and take the north road out. In my opinion,
neither road is better than the other one. With Snowmass
complete I was done with the Elk fourteeners. Leaving
Hagerman behind means that I’ll have to come back another day if I want
to complete all of the Colorado centennials (top 100 peaks).
No problem. The Snowmass area is a worthy area to revisit.
| THE
NUMBERS |
TIME
(hh:mm) |
DISTANCE
(miles) |
| TH
to
the Lake |
1:00 |
2.0 |
| Lake
to
the base the west face |
1:00 |
1.7 |
| The
base of the west face to the summit of Snowmass |
1:20 |
1.0 |
| On
the sumit of Snowmass |
0:20 |
- |
| The
summit of Snowmass to the base of the west face |
1:20 |
1.0 |
| The
base of the west face to the lake |
0:52 |
1.7 |
| The
lake to the trailhead |
0:50 |
2.0 |
| TOTAL |
6:42 |
9.4 |
|
|