The manual is written to guide an experienced do-it-yourselfer in the con struction of his own solar collectors using the components specified in this manual. Most of these components are available in lumber yards; some are solar specific and must be acquired through solar supply houses; a few are unique to Collector Erector and must be reproduced as nearly as possible from these drawings.
This manual assumes some basic solar knowledge on the part of the builder and does not go into such topics as orientation, tilt angle, shading, system schematics, solar subsystems, etc. Rather, the reader is referred to the many excellent textbooks which are on the market for this information.
Collector Erector represents an evolution which we at Lane Maxwell Enterprises feel has produced a quality product that can he assembled at a very reasonable price. This combination of advantages makes Collector Erector one of those products which will assist the development of the solar industry.
In general, these instructions show the equivalent of a three-panel collector system. This does not mean that this size is the most practical, convenient, or economic. Quite the contrary, with Collector Erector , size is no limitation and even greater savings are realized with larger collector areas. The three panel representation was simply chosen because it is the minimum size required to show all of the necessary details in Collector Erector construction. Although no scale was used to make the drawings, the com- ponents are approximately in proportion of their relative sizes, giving a realistic representation of how the finished product will look.
II. Development
In 1975, Lane Maxwell progressed from the stage of experimenting and toying
with solar energy and began seriously constructing site-built collectors.
For the first three years, he built only air collectors; using commercial
collectors on his liquid installations. These air systems were principally
of wood construction with aluminum or steel absorber plates and tempered
glass glazings.
The solar industry learned many lessons on these early systems: The resin in the wood outgasses (vaporizes) inside the collectors and clouds the inside of the glazing, fiber glass reinforced plastic (FRP) glazing is less Costly than glass, and easier to work with, glass has a longer life, and so on.
During this same period, other organizations were taking an even more criti.�
cal look at wood inside collectors and they came up with an astounding con-
clusion:
THE USE OF WOOD INSIDE SOLAR COLLECTORS CAN CREATE A FIRE HAZZARD.
For a more complete treatment of this subject, see the following references:
(1) �Lessons Learned from the HUD Solar Demonstration Program,� Moore,
David C., Solar Engineering Magazine, March, 1981, Page 16.
(2) �Insurors Face Coverage Needs of Solar Systems,� Bossong, K.,
Solar Engineering Engineering Magazine, March, 1980 Page 11.
(3) �Hazardous Properties and Environmental Effects of Materials Used
in Solar Heating and Cooling (SHAC) Technnologies: Intirim Hand-
book,� Searcy, J.O., U.S. Department of Energy DOE/EV-0028
UC-ll-59-59C, December, 1978.
(4) �Summary of Noneditorial Comments Received in Response to the
November, 1979 Draft of the Proposed First Edition of U.S.1279
and U.L. Staff position in Response to the Comments�. Under
writers Liboratories, Inc., 333 Pfingsten Road, Northhrook,
Illinois 60062, November 20, 1980. See Comment & Response #69,
#114, and Revisions #133.1, #167.3 and TabLe 426.1.
This is not to say that wooden coLlectors are destined to burst into flame; quite the contrary, the one case in reference (1) in which a fire was directly caused by wood inside the collectors was probabLy the exception rather than the rule. The point of this is, anyone who is considering building collectors today should avoid wood at all costs. Further, he should reLy on the expcr~ tise of someone who has built and tested many different materials in collector construction and who is qualified to make a judgement on which are best.
During the next two years, Lane Maxwell did just that, researching the work of others and experimenting for himself when reliable data was not available. His Second generation CE-II, used many parts designed especially for the solar collector assembly. Although the design was excellent, the use of custom parts gave it no economic advantage over commercial collectors. More research, this time into commercially available parts capable of doing the sane job at a greatly reduced cost. The end result of this quest is described in the following pages of this manual,CE- v, we believe ts the safest, most cost effective1 and efficient way of building your own solar collectors available today.
III. Organization
This manual. is prepared so that an experienced do�it-yourselfer can build
either an air- or liquid- type solar collector using the parts specified in
the Bill of Materials herein.
Construction steps are supported by drawings for each task and each step is completely detailed in this writeup. This narrative is presented in a general manner to describe each building step. When required, the writeup has specific information on air or liquid system application. Also when required, there are separate drawings to show the differences between the construction of the air and liquid systems.
All Collectoe Erector parts have been designed to standard building sizes to facilitate the use of commerciaL building products wherever possible. This means that the internal members are laid out on 24� centers (or 36" centers if standard patio door glass is used). Such design will enable the builder to integrate his collector into new or ex- isting construction with the minimum amount of fitting.
Numbered parts on the drawings and the narrative are keyed to each other and the Bill of Materials The suffix �A� is used to denote air,and �L� to denote liquid,when a component is peculiar to one system or the other. Other suffixes are used only to denote different variations of the same part.
In order to show a few of the many variations of construction available, some configuration changes have been made from one view to the next. Also, for clarity, some details are shown only on the step in which they are ac� complished, and omitted in later drawings.
IV. Detailed lnstructtons
Time spent in planning the actual construction will be well invested. Read
through this entire manual, observing all steps and their various options.
Make numerous drawings, to scale if possible, showing the exact position of
each component. This will reduce the number of changes you will have to
make during the actual construction and speed up the job. If you have to
make field changes, you will also be aware of items which may be impacted
downstream and take steps to minimize their effect. These plans will also
enable you to order the proper number of parts and select from some Options.
The planning is so important that an entire section will be devoted to it
before proceeding with actual construction.
IV-1 Planning - Refer to all Figures
Collector Erector is designed to be able to accomodate a wide variety of
collector sizes and shapes internally. The expternal appearance of all
these collectors will, on the other hand, have one thing in common: they
will all have vertical battens on the outside. The battens will, normally
he 24"or 36� on centers (O.C.) and can be painted to match the color of the
house, not flat black. the collectors are also characterized by the lack
of horizontal members above the glazing. This feature allows dirt, water,
and snow to slide off the collector face. there will also be a 5-1/2" frame
a11 the way around the collector glazing to provide space for insulation
and piping.
IV-1-A General
So, the first requirement for which to plan is that these vertical channels
be laid out accurately, with main support mounts behind them. Once
the internal struts are in place on these mounts, almnost all the subsequent
hardware bolts directly into them so alignment will b automatic.
There is also a requirement for horizontal spacers between the two layers of glazing. For proper support, these should be no greater than 36" O.C. Since the internal struts are predrilled on 4" centers, these spacings can vary in multiples of 4�, up to a maximum of 36�. If the collector is built to an odd size, the builder must drill additional holes.
The best way to maintain these vertical and horizontal spacings is to draw a grid on your plan, showing exactly where the members will be located. Later, this grid will be translated into chalk lines on the actual collector so that the struts can be mounted directly to the grid. Needless to say, it is important to keep the grid lines exactly vertical and horizontal (vertical here means with respect to the collector; the actual lines may run up and down a collector that is tilted at an incline). When you lay out your plan, look for the opportunity to use some mounts you already have. For example, if you are planning a vertical wall col- lector, you can mount directly to studs in the wall that �re 24" O.C. Similarly, you can use roof trusses, or even build the collector right into the roof. Always remember that after the grid is laid out, there is a 5-1/2� border around the entire collector, outside the grid.
IV-1-B Air and Liquid Specifics
Collector dimensions are very flexible for an air system because there is
really no size limitation of the absorber plate. When more collector
area is desired, just add more or longer aluminum panels. In the case
of liquid collectors however, the absorber plates are factory made in
the standard 22�X96� size (with some other size options available, write
for details). This limits the individual channel widths to 24� and
lengths to multiples of 96� Therefore, plan the size of your collector
with these requirements in mind. [Due to limited availability in the present time,2004, the sizes given here may not be correct]
IV�1-C Modifications
Collectors do not have rectanglar. Collector Erector. has been built onto
the side of houses, right up into the peak of the roof. One version even
took on a triangular shape between two diverging roofs. These designs
take a little experience and a lot of planning. The size limitations
mentioned above can be circumvented by building your own liquid absorber
plates; however this is recommended only for the experienced installers.
Single glazing is possible by eliminating the FEP inner glazing and com-
bining the horizontal and vertical spacers in one step.
IV-2 Prepare the Collector Mounts - Figure 2.
As previously mentioned, it is assumed that the builder has some basic solar
knowledge, that he has selected a south-facing location (within 30 deg. of true
south), he has determined the optimum tilt for his system, he has designed
His method of mounting, he has decided whether he will build an air or a
liquid system, and he knows how his collector will integrate into the rest
of his system.
Figure 1 shows a location where the builder has chosen to mount his col- lectors on a south-facing roof, tilted upward at an angle greater than the roof. The important consideration in this figure is that the builder has determined exactly where the internal struts (part number 3, in an upcoming view) will be located inside the collector. This is more important than locating the rafters under the roof. The design of the collector trusses and their attachment to the roof is left up to the builder. These trusses, or mnre specifically the top rail of them, (part #1) will become both the back support of the collector and the anchor for the internal CE Struts (3).
IV-2-B Air and Liquid Specifics
Even this early in construction, the connections between the collectors
and the rest of the system should be installed. Normally, ducts will
be used for air as shown in Figure 1, and pipes will, be used for a liquid
system. Either ones should always be insulated. Roof penetrations should
he planned for a location which is convenient to both the location of
the collector inlets/outlets and the connections to the rest of the solar
system. Also, be aware that things get tight under a roof, and you will need to allow yoursely room to work.
IV-2-C Variations
Although trusses have been shown, the Collector Mounts (1) can take many
different forms: Figure 2 shows Sleepers (aLso iabied #1). These are pressure treated or
redwood boards about 2x2, which are fastened to the roof, to allow water
to run down the roof under the collectors. Alternatively, the Collector
Mounts (1) can take the form of roof trusses in an unsheeted roof or
spacers nailed to a vertical south wall.
IV-3 Attach the Collector Backing - Figure 2
The Collector Backing (2) is the surface that defines the back of the col-
lector envelope. In some cases, it could be the vertical wall of the house
or the roofing material. In all cases, it must be sealed against weather
and air leaks.
IV-3-A General
One-fourth inch masonite, available in 4X8 sheets, is used to form the
Collector Backing (2). This is nailed directly to the Collector Mounts
(1). All seams between sheets should be caulked and tightly sealed,
especially for air systems, as this will be the primary seal between
the inside of the collector and the outside air. The Backing (2) ex-
tends past the outer edges of the collector glazing such that it forms
a sort of picture frame about 5-1/2� wide all the way around the outside of
the collector to accomodate the Collector Frames (23).
IV-3-B Air and Liquid Specifics
At this point, allowences must be made for the ducts or pipes as shown
in Figure 2 which will connect the collectors to the rest of the system,
if these connections are to be made from the back. Also see Figure 3
for an example of the air duct connection and Figure 8 for a pipe penetration. Alternatively, Figure 7 shows a pipe through the side of the collector which
does not effect this step.
IV-3-C Variations
As previously mentioned, this view depicts sleepers fastened directly to
a roof (none should be mounted horizontally, or in such a way as to
dam the roof) with the Collector Backing (2) nailed directly to them;
in some installations where the collectors are built directly into the
roof, the Collector Backing (2) replaces the plywood normally used as
roofing; in another case of a vertical wall collector, the existing
wall of stucco, brick, siding, etc, can be used to perform this func-
tion. Remember, it must be sealed against both weather and, in the
case of air collectors, air leaks.
IV-4 Fasten the Struts - Figures 3 and 4
The internal Struts (3) are available in lumber yards commercially as steel
studs. The one used in Collector Erector are 3-5/8� wide with uneven legs -
1-1/4" and 1-3/8�. These Struts (2) form the main structual
and spacing members inside the collectors so they must be accurately lo-
cated, with a secure mounting behind them. As a result, the Mounts (1)
should have been spaced so that the struts will be directly above
them. Note that all Struts (3) which run vertically must be on 24�centers (or 36" if you have selected patio glass glazing),
whereas ones which run horizontally do not have this restriction.
IV-4-A General
The Collector Struts (3) form the internal framework of the collector,
provide support and mounting surfaces, and allow proper spacing for the
internal components. Since they will provide the hole patterns for
almost everything to come, they must be mounted very accurately. In
the planning stage, the Collector Mounts (1) should have been accurately
located to be under the Struts (2) which will be mounted in this step.
Referring to Figure 1, note the Mounts (1) which appear to be hanging in
space (second from each end); these will be attached when the Struts
(3) are added.
All parts for Collector Erector were designed to be assembled with the Struts (3) on 24� centers. [obsolete]The Struts (3) themselves are punched on 4� centers, with extra holes at the ends. If necessary, the builder can drill more holes as required.
Construction begins with the very accurate layout of the Strut (3) pat- tern on the masonite Backing (2). Use a chalk line to lay out a grid marking the center lines of all the Struts (3). Begin with one line 6-1/4" (5-1/2 + 3/4") from the edge and all the way around the perimeter of the Backing (2). Generally, this will mark the boundary of thc Collector Frame (23). Select one corner of this rectangle to he the refer- ence point from which all vertical (ormore specifficaly, inclined down the slope of the coLlectors) and horizontal lines will be layed out. In the drawings, this point is the northeast corner of the collector. In very large collector arrays, this point might be better located in the center of the top, working outward to the ends to minimize systematic error.
Now lay out a series of parallel vertical lines, each 24� (or 36") O.C. from the vertical reference line. Do not �cheat" the second line in by 3/4" as is common in other layout work. (It would be possible for the last sec- tion to be shorter than 24� if collector length is not a multiple of 24�). These lines will locate the centers of the Struts (3) if they run vertically as in Figure 4. Figure 3 shows the air collector with the Struts (3) running horizontally while Figure 4 shows (for the liquid version) the Struts (3) running vertically. Again, these differences are for the purpose of illustration only, and by no means dictate that the collector must he built with horizontal Struts (3) for air and ver- tical. for liquid. One rule which should be followed, however is that all the Struts (3) which form the outer framework should have the open sides of the �C� channels facing inward, the inner struts may have their channels facing either direction.
Using a 3/16� lag screw or stove bolt (4) [obsolete][Later versions have a special lag screw/bolt combination for this use, many are still available in 2004]of a length dictated by the size of the Collector Mounts (1), fasten the first horizontal Strut (3) directly over your vertical and horizontal reference line meeting point. To do this, drill the pilot hole directly where the chalk lines cross and put the bolt (4) through the first hole in the Strut (3), the one 3/4� from the end. Extend the Strut (3) perpendicular to the 24� O.C. lines you previously laid out and check to ensure that one of the holes in the Strut (3) lies directly over each intersection of the chalk lines. If any do not, it means you have made a mismeasurement and you must cor- rect this before proceeding. It helps to lay out all dimensions from the beginning point, never moving the tape. With each of the 24� O.C. lines exactly matching some of the holes in the first Strut (3), fasten it in place directly over its own centerline. Use screws or bolts at intervals which do not exceed 24�.
Next, plan the spacings for the glazing spacers to be used later. These will run parallel to the Strut (3) which is now in place. [obsolete]The glazing manufacturer recommends that his product be supported at no less than 24� in one direction and 36� in the other. Since the 24� dimension has already been selected as the vertical one, the horizontaL spacings should be planned to be less than 36�, and in multiples of 4�. As- suxning that the vertical Spacers (3) have been laid out 24� O.C. as in Figure 4, and the vertical length of the gLazing is 93� you may want to set the top distance at 29�, and the lower two at 32� each. Note, that one is, by necessity, not a multiple of 4� and that the sizes are as equal as possible. Beginning from the chalk line under the first Strut (3), lay out these dimensions as follows: 29� 61��, and 93�. This spacing is not shown in any of the drawings.
You are now ready to attach the rest of the Struts (3). Lay the first one over the reference centerline and move it up to within 4� of the previously fastened Strut (3) and check to see that all three spacing lines drawn previously intersect the reference center line under a hole in the strut (3). This time, you are locating the horizontal spacers which is not critical, but you may want to correct it, or at I east ascertain why you have an error. Fasten this new Strut (3) with lag screws or bolts (4). Fasten the rest of the Struts (3) parallel to this one; followed by the rest of those perpendicular to it. Check to see that all the intersecting chalk lines have a Strut (3) hole over them. Mark the top hole of the Strut (3) at each crossing location for future use. If crosses and holes do not line up, it should be corrected now to avoid problems in the future, as even a 1/4" misalignment will throw some other dimensions off. Two or more Struts (3) or parts of Struts (3) can be used end to end, as long as the new one is continued in a line and the hole centers are maintained at 4� across the gap. It is desir- able, although not necessary, to tri,m the ends of the Struts (3) such that they fit snuggly against each other.
Once all the Struts (3) are installed use Edge Gussetts (5) and Corner Gussetts (6) to brace these points and hold the entire assembly together. Fasten these Gussetts (5, 6) by match drilling new holes through the Gussetts (5, 6) and Struts (3) and using pop rivets or sheet metal screws. Drill holes in the Gussetts (5, 6) at locations whore bolts (12) will be required later, i.e. corners, and insert bolts (12) from the bottom.
IV-4-B - Air and Liquid Specifics - Figures 3 and 4
Figures 3 and 4 show the major differences between the setup for the air
and liquid systems. Basically, the air system Struts (3) also serve as
air flow channels whereas in the liquid system, they do not. These air
flow channels are created as shown on Figure 3 by allowing large gaps
between the intersecting struts. These gaps are not all the same size,
but rather taper from large to small as the air flows farther away
from its inlet. Such a pattern forms an internal air distribution
manifold. The �squeezing� action of the distribution manifold causes
the air to be pushed down each successive channel in a uniform manner.
Similarly, the manifold on the outlet side begins with a small gap
(opposite the large one on the inlet) and grows to a large one at the
Outlet Air Boot (7A). Such a scheme, whether in an air or liquid system, with the inlet and outlet situated
diagonally across from each other is called a �Reverse Return� and
inherently balances the fluid flow in the channels, so long as things are
sized properly.
To size the gaps between the Struts (3) which form the channels and the
side Struts (3) perpendicular to the channels, all that must be known are:
A. The Length of the channels, from one side Strut (3) to the
other. Call this U and is measured in feet.
B. The width of the channel in inches, which shall be called W.
C. The number of channels downstream of the gap being sized, call
this N.
D. The formula G=.0375 LNW, where G is the width of the gap in
inches at the place where the calculation is being made.
E. This formula was derived for Collector Erector only and should
not be applied to any other situation. It is most useful for
channel lengths up to about 12 feet and areas up to about 250
square feet. Above these dimensions some external manifolds
should be used to introduce the air in several places.
To apply the formula, look at Figure 3. This example applies to Figure 3 only, not to the example in step IV-4-A. There are three channels, each 18 inches wide. Assume that the inlet is in the lower left corner. In order to size the widest gap, note that the air is already in the first channeI and the gap serves only two channels so N=2. The collector is about six feet long, so L=6. Then G=.0375 X 6 X 2 X 18 = 8.1 inches. The wide gap on the out Let side is obviously this same dimension. The narrow gap serves only one channel and for it N=l, L~6 and G=4.0 inches. In each case of Figure 4 the gap has been trimmed to this width after the holes in the Struts (3) have been located on the 24� O.C. vertical spacing lines. This extra step assures that the mounting holes will still line up in higher levels of layers. The struts (3) are then fastened to the Backing (2). Use a magic marker to identify the top hole of each Strut (3) where the lower hole lies over the intersecting reference line. Do this at every intersection in the collector as it will be needed for future reference.
As previously stated, the above procedure for sizing the gaps in air collector is only applicable to small to moderate collector areas (up to 250 square feet). After that externaL manifolds should be used. Also, if the gap width at any time exceeds 24�, a short piece of Strut (J) should be inserted as a brace in the middle, parallel to the airflow. It should be located such that its mounting holes line up with those in the rest of the collector.
For liquid collectors, it is most convenient to use 22� wide absorbers mounted in a vertical direction between the 24� O.C. Struts, and to make the collectors only long enough to acconiodate the length of the absorber.
IV-4-C Modifications
The 24� wide vertical spacing is a firm requirement. The 36� maximum
spacing for horizontal supports will be met later, but must be planned
for at this point. This requirement is not so rigid and such varia-
tions as the 18� used in the air collector example can be employed.
The instructions given in this section were designed to provide the user with several variations available; hopefully without confusing him.
Iv-5 Install the Absorber Plate - Figures 5 and 6
Liquid Absorbers (16L) are 22� wide by 96� [obsolete] long, making the channel dimensions
a natural 24� by 98� on centers. Air Absorbers (16A) are available in various
sizes, giving rise to convenient collector sizes. Fortunitely, the pattern
of raised ridges on the air absorbers is on 24� centers [obsolete] and this pattern will
be run vertically.
Paint the front side of the absorbers (16A or L) before installing them. Use a high grade flat black paint over a good primer. Pickle the absorber first using an agent recommended by your local paint store. An alternate is to use an electroplated selective surface.
IV-5-A General
Be sure that you have made a clear mark (magic marker, etc.) on top of
each spacer when the holes match intersecting vertical and horizontal
lines below. This is so you can find these points after you cover the
chalk lines with insulation.
The collector Insulation (8) is installed first. Fiberglass roll insula- tion without binders is preferred so that it will not outgas. Rigid foam insulations may be used in liquid collectors only where approved by building inspectors. At this time, these foam boards are not recommended for air systems because there is still some fear of the release of toxic fumes into the air which will then be introduced into the house.
Liquid systems use the full 3-1/2" thick Insulation (8) while air systems require a 1� flow channel behind the absorber; they use 2~� thick insu- lation (8). In each case, the Insulation (8) is spread evenly throughout the entire collector, between the Struts (3).
An alternate method of installing the Insulation (8) is to use the full 3-1/2� thick material for either air or liquid collectors, and to lay it over the entire Collector Backing (2) and then bolt the Struts (3) over it to hold it down in place. The best way to maintain the accurate alignment of the Struts (3) is to bolt them down, mark the grid intersection points, then raise them up to apply Insulation (8) under them. If this is an air collector, the Air Inlet/Outlet Boots (7A) are installed and sealed to the Collector Backing (2) to prevent air leaks, see Figure 3.
The next items to be installed are the CE Clamp Sets (9, 10, 11, 12, 13). One of these must be installed directly over the vertical and horizontal grid intersections (these places were previously marked). It is helpful to slip one CE Sleeve (9) on each end of each CE Clamp, Lower (10) and Upper (11) before beginning. Next, push a Bolt (12) upward through the hole in the channel and install a CE Clamp Lower (10) (with the tabs pointing down) and a Nut (13) and tighten this security into place. Place the Upper CE Clamp (11) and another Nut (13) on the Bolt (12) or nearby. Do this at every intersection and work outward from there placing a CE Clamp Set (9-13) at normal spacings of 8", but not to exceed 12� apart on the Struts (3). These are shown in Figures 5 and 6.
The air absorber plates (16A) must be drilled to allow penetration of the Bolts (12). These holes must be accurately measured and drilled to 1/4� dia. (to allow some tolerance; but if larger holes are required, it could lead to some alignment problems in subsequent layers). [obsolete] The pattern of ridges of the air Absorber (16A) must bulge outward and must run vertically.
When laying out these Plates, (16A) stagger these ridges so they will not he located above the 24� O.C. lines previously laid out. To do this, trim bulges off the first Absorber (16A) so that it will fit vertically in the first 24" channel with the set of ridges in the center of the channel. Trim wide enough so that the Absorber (16A) will overhang the first Strut (3) by 2�, completely covering the CE Clamp Set (9-13). Check for plumb (vertical alignment) before drilling the mounting holes. Subsequent Absorbers (16A) are applied to the first one by overlapping the ridges per the manufacturer�s instructions and fastening with sheet metal screws.
[obsolete]Liquid Absorbers (16L) are not quite so tricky because the channel sizes have been laid out properly to accomodate the absorbers. Be sure, if the Absorber is so marked, to place it right side up. Make provisions n its inlet/outlet lines to protrude into the space outside the edge Struts (3)
Lift the Absorbers (16A or L) into position and lay them on the Sleeve (9) portion of the Lower CE Clamp (10). Slip the Upper CE Clamp (11) in place and then install a Spacer Strip (14) directly over any vertical Strut (3). Tighten all the Nuts (13) into counterbored holes on the Spacer Strip (14). Do this over all the vertical Struts (3). Use Shims (15) around the outside edges of the Struts (3) where there is no liquid absorber (16L) to fill the gap between the CE Clamp Lower (10), and Upper (11).
In the case of collectors with Struts (3) running horizontally only as in Figures 3 and 5, a Strongback (17) must be used to create the 24� O.C. channels. Install this Strongback (17) strip with the U channel pointing up, and lay a Spacer (14) in it. Use Nuts (13) in the counterbored holes to secure these two strips to the CE Clamps Upper (11) instalLed in these positions Use extra Bolts (12) and Nuts (13) 8� O.C. between the CE Clamp Sets (9-13). Where channel widths are less than multiples of 4�, new holes will have to be drilled in the Strongback (17) and Spacer (14) to accomodate the Bolts (12).
Complete the assembly of the absorbers by placing Spacers (14) and Nuts (13) on the horizontal edge Struts (3). These will have to be cut to fit between the verticals which are already in place
IV-5-B Air and Liquid Specifics
This subject has been covered under IV-5-A. General above. For liquid
collectors, the piping should now be connected to form the manifolds
which serve the Absorber Plates (16L) These manifolds are soldered
directly into the absorber connections such that the manifolds lie
within 2-3/4� just outside the edge Struts (3). This dimension will
still allow for insulation in the Collector Frame (23) area. Use a
reverse return connection in all cases and an Expansion Joint (7L)
for more than three Absorbers (16L) in a row. Pressure test and
repair any leaks before proceeding.
IV-5-C Modifications
These have been discussed under IV-4-A General. Figure 7 shows the
liquid inlet/outlet pipes coming straight out the.isides of the Collector
Backing (2). Absorbers (16 A or L) other than 22� wide will require channel
widths sized specifically for them.
IV-6 Install the Inner Glazing - Figures 7 and 8
In this step, the FEP Glazing (19) which will be used is heat shrinkable and will
draw up when it gets hot. It is better to do this step in the early morning,
evening, or on cloudy days, if possible,
IV-6-A General. To prepare for the glazing, [obsolete]EPDM Glazing Tape (18) is applied down each side of the vertical and horizontal Spacers (14), straddling the bolts. Prepare two vertical channels at a time to use the full width of the Glazing (19)[obsolete]. Cover the Spacers (14) with the FEP Glazing (19) by cutting holes (do not puncture the glazing as it may tear) and slipping the Glazing (19) over the bolts (12). It is best to roll out a piece and cut it the same length as the vertical channel. Lay it across the top and cut holes for the bolts (12). Temporally clamp it in place with a short piece of Spacer (14) and Nuts (13). Roll the Glazing (19) down the channel, cutting each new bolt hole as it is encountered. At the bottom, use more temporary Spacers (14) and Nut (13) clamps. Trim excess Glazing (19). Do this for all the vertical channels. For very large collector areas, additional Spacer (14) clamps should he used as temporary hold-downs.
After all the PEP Glazing (19) is in position, the horizontal Spacers (14) are added. These were the ones which were laid out in step IV-3-A. Place Glazing Tape (18) around the Bolts (13). These spacers should run continuously, as long as possible, since there are no sup- ports directly under them and the only place they can attach is at their intersection with the vertical Struts (3). These Spacers (14) can be spliced. Also, cut small Kerfs on the bottom side of the Spacers (14) to provide weep holes so any trapped moisture can escape. Now cut vertical Spacers (14) to fit between the horizontal ones. Add Glazing Tape (18) to the bottoms of these strips before applying them. Make sure there are Nuts (13) on all Bolts (12) and tighten them in place. Cut off any Bolts (12) that protrude above the Spacers (14). Figure 8 shows these horizontal spacers in place before the addition of the Outer Glazing (20). There will be no horizontal members above this point to dam water or cause leaks.
IV-6-B Air and Liquid Specifics
Figure 7 shows the Inner Glazing (19) as applied to a liquid collector;
since the channels will now always be verticaL, the air collectorwiii
look the same except for the patterns of the different Absorbers (16A and
and 16L) and inlet/outlet manifolds.
IV-6-C Modifications
This phase of construction is fairly regimented and does not leave much
latitude for change.
IV-7 Install the Outer Glazing - Figures 8 and 9
This step represents the completion of the collector area per se. The
melticulous care and accuracy which has been required in previous StopS
will pay off in ease of completion, perfect fits, and a fine finished product.
IV-7-A General
In Figure 8, it is evident that the inner horizontal Spacers (14) have
to be as long as possible to span the 24" channels and still have points
of attachment. These horizontals serve to support the sides of the 24�
channels against the pull of the PEP as it shrinks under the heat inside
the collector as well as to provide the necessary spacing and support
of the Outer Glazing (20)[obsolete].
Before proceeding, make sure that all of the bolts (12) have been cut off to below the height of the Spacers (14) [obsolete]. Begin by stapling a piece of Edge Seal (21) to the Spacers (14) around the top and both edges of the collector such that the open side points toward the collector. Note that Edge Seal (21) [obsolete] has two flaps and Maxi Seal (22) [obsolete] has three. Miter [obsolete] joints for the corners are made as shown in Figure 11A and T-joints for Maxi Seal (22) to Edge Seal (21) are as shown in Figure 11B. Next, Maxi Seal (22) is stapled down each of the vertical Spacers (14) which will contain a seam; i.e., every other one. Spread from east to west as these instructions show, then the bottom opening of the Maxi Seal (22) faces east and the stapler is inserted from the east. Be careful to keep the seal (21, 22) centered on the Spacers (14).
Finally, the Outer Glazing (20) is ready for installation. [obsolete] Since there is an ultra-violet (U.V.) resistive coating on one side, that side must face the outside. The U.V. coating is on the inside of the roll, so it is easily rolled on to the waiting channels. It is aLways handy to have a clean clear work surface to roll the Glazing (20) out and cut it ahead of time. Cut it just a little long. FRP has a natural elect- rostatic charge and so will pick up any sawdust, dirt, grass, etc. which is in the area. To remove this dirt, wipe the inner side of the Glazing (20) with a rag sprayed with a commercial anti-static agent. Lift the Glazing (20) into place and slip it under the Seal (21, 22) flaps. Ensure that the fit is proper, that the Glazing (20) is in straight, that it does not force the Seal (21, 22) out of position anywhere, and most of all, that there are no openings between the Glazing (20) and the Seal (21, 22). Use 7/8� drywall nails to spot the Glazing (20) in place. Nail right through the Seal (21, 22) and Glazing (20) and into the Spacer (14) below. Do not nail through the Maxi Seal (22) which will hold the next piece of Glazing (20), but do nail the last Maxi Seal. (22) which now has two layers of Glazing (20) between the Maxi Seal (22) flaps. Nailing through the FRP is tough, so try to put the nails in places where there is ample support from below. Use only enough nails to hold the Glazing (20) in place. The bottom edge of each strip of Glazing (20) does not have Edge Seal (21) on it, as this will be treated later, so do not nail within about one foot of the bottom. repeat this process for all the 24� channels.
IV-7-B Air and Liquid Specifics
This procedure is common in both cases.
IV-7-C Modifications
It may be easier to install the bottom Flashing (23) before going into
this step so that the Glazing (20) can be tacked across the bottom of
the collector and will not need to be disturbed later.
IV�8 Install the Collector Frame - Figures 8 and 9
The CoLlector Frame (23) will provide the primary seal for the entire collector
against weather and, in the case of air collectors, leakage of air from
within the collector. There are two types of Collector Frame - 23B which
has a 1-1/2" tail to mount to the Backing (2) as in Figure 8 and a long tail (23C)
as in Figure 9 to be flashed into existing roofs for integral roof systems.
IV-8-A General
The bottom Frame (23) gets installed first. Edge Seal (21) is applied
over the folded back edge of the Frame (23). Stuff insulation (8) into
the void between the Struts (3) - Spacer (14) edges and the edge of the
Backing (2). Use plenty without packing it tightly as this will not
matter if air leaks out into this area from air collectors as there is
nowhere for it to go once the outer limit has been sealed. Apply a
generous amount of a good asphalt roof cement or caulking to the bottom
I� of the Collector Backing (2) to provide a good seal.
Slip the Frame (23) into place, working the Edge Seal (21) under the [obsolete] FRP Glazing (20). Now seat the leg (short (23B), long (23C)) down on the collector Backing (2) and work it into the caulking. If this collector uses the short Frame (23B), use a 1X2 batten (24). Screw or bolt this down to the Backing (2) to securely seal it in place. If using the long Frame (23C), nail it in place on the Mounts (1) below and flash it on to the top of the shingLes, etc., being sure to get a good seal. A batten (24) will also help here.
The Edge Seal (21) should end flush with the bottom of the vertical Edge Seal (21), and battens (24) shouLd end 1-1/2� from the edge of the Backing (2). Trim l-1/2� off the top side of the Frame (23) on the east and west ends, cut back 1-1/2" at the bottom where the Frame (23) meets the Backing (2) and bend the vertical 1-1/2� tab that remains toward the top of the collector. This tab will fit under the Frame (23) on each side of the collector.
Now install the two edge Frames (23). This time, the folded back edges of the Frame (23) will lay on top of the Edge Seal. (21). Stuff the void with insulation as before and caulk the Backing (2). Also caulk the overlapping seam on the bottom Frame (23) where this one will mate with it. Fit the Frame (23) and use the battens (24) on the Short (23B) or nail the Long Frame (23) as before. Trim the bottom tabs such that they overlap on top of the previously installed bottom Frame (23), and are well sealed. Make similar tabs for the top.
Install the top Frame (23) in a very similar manner, making sure that all tabs overlap the ones on the edges in a cascading fashion so no water can penetrate the corners, and no air can get out. Pop rivet or screw all seams down securely.
IV-8-B Air and Liquid Specifics
This procedure is the same for air and liquid systems, except that sealing
is more critical for the air collectors.
IV-8-C Modifications
The method of flashing the long Frame (23C) into an integral collector
system follows established practice. The 1x2 battens (24) may or may
not be used for this configuration.
IV-9 Apply the Battens - Figure 9
The battens (24) will he the final step in the Collector Erector assembly.
The� should he paintcd to match the house, trim, or other color before
assembly.
IV-9-A General
The folded back lip of the Frame (23) should extend just over the Spacers
(14) on all but the bottom edge. Lay a Batten (24) vertically down the
edge of the Frame (23) so that the rounded edge is about 1/8� outside
the batten. [obsolete] Use a 6d galvenized nail or 1-1/2� cadmium plated wood screw
to secure the batten (24) down to the Frame (23), Seal (21, 22), Glazing
(20) and into the Spacer (14) below. Do this to all the vertical
Spacers (14). Extend the battens (24) to the top of the Frame (23) or
1-1/2" above the Glazing (20) per your own taste. Do not put a horizontal batten
across the top of the Glazing (20), but rather nail or screw the Frame
(23) securely (also use caulking) in this area.
IV-9-B Air and Liquid Specifics
None
IV-9-C Modifications
V. Completing the System
As previously mentioned, this manual concerns the fabrication of collectors
using the Collector Erector building system. The entire scheme
was devised to be an economical, yet efficient way to build solar collectors.
It should be equally beneficial to do-it-yourselferS solar installers, and
contractorS.
These collectors, when constructed in accordance with this manual, approach
the efficiency of even the best factory-made collectors and can he combined
with other manufactured equipment (tanks, controls, blowers, etc.) to make
a solar system you can be proud of, at a very reasonable price.
At times the preparation of this manual became somewhat tedious due to the
many variations in possibilities of construction. An effort was made to
keep it clear and consise, while providing sufficient detail to explain the
procedure. Do not be frightened by the variations; select the one that
best suits your needs and concentrate on that one only. [It has been slightly revised to publish it on the web in Feb., 2004, with later changes alluded to by marking them with "[obsolete]".
DISCLAIMER: Use this as a guide only. You are on your own. If there is enough interest, Lane Maxwell Enterprises will update these plans, sell the remaining stock of special parts, and even have new ones produced.
VI. Ordering the Parts
The manual provides sufficient information for the prospective builder to
plan his own Collector Erector with enough detail to order the parts he will
need. Figure 12, the Bill of Materials lists all the materials required for
the construction (except for incidentials like nails caulking, screws, etc.)
and sources for each. As you can see, most materials are avaiLable at local
building supply centers and sheet metal shops. Several will have to he purchased
through solar stores [obsolete]. These are growing in popularity [obsolete]and you
may have one in your neighborhood. There are only a few items which must he
purchased from Lane Maxwell Enterprises or an authorized Collector Erector
Dealer [obsolete].
So lay out a plan and order the components from it. Do not cut yourself short on parts which must be ordered through the mail, time lost waLting can he moce harmful than a few extra dollars spent for a little surplus equipment.