Tank size;

Tank size is based on dry area needed, turtle size and amount of waist produced.

10 Gallon; 1-4 turtles up to 4inches or 1-2 turtles up to 6inches.

20, 20L, 29 Gallon; 1-4 turtles up to 6inches, 1-2 turtles up to 8inches.

55 Gallon; 1-2 Adult turtles

Setup;

Up to ¼ of the tank should be dry area where the turtle can dry out completely and warm up under a basking light. This can be done with “Turtle Dams” or a divider that will hold a pile up rocks up where they will not slide down with the movement of the animal. The transition should be gradual and easy for the turtle to maneuver. There are floating turtle docks on the market that work well also.

The rest of the tank can be covered with bed rocks and decorated as you desire. Live plants will be eaten. Plastic plants can create great hiding spots needed by the turtle to feel safe. Use caution when placing decorations with restrictive openings under water. Your turtle can get caught and drowned. Even though they can stay under for extended periods they do not have gills to breath. They must return to the surface for air.

The depth of the water should be not less than the length of the turtle. Up to twice the length of your turtle in depth is good enough. Use of a filter in the water is going to depend on the method of maintenance you prefer.

The basking light should create an 80-85 deg. F. hot spot. A 5% UVB bulb will also be needed for long term health. A reptile safe water heater may be required to maintain water temperature at a min. of 72 deg. F.

Maintenance;

There are two ways to maintain turtle tank water. All water used should be de-chlorinated. Using ½T of “aquarium” salt per 5gallons of water will help in digestion and dehydration (yes they can).

Method 1; This method is really no better or worse than method 2 just different. In this method you dump the entire contents of the weekly. Clean the tank and all decorations before reassembling. DO NOT let the water go for more than one week between cleanings. At the end of the first week the levels of ammonia build up to toxic levels that are unhealthy for the turtle. With this method use of a filter is optional as it is not necessary.

Method2; This method treats your turtle tank as an aquarium. To maintain a tank in this way a three way filter is required. Three way filter use Mechanical, Chemical and Biological means of cleaning the water. Mechanical is the filter material that removes debris. Chemical is the use of active charcoal to treat discoloration. Biological provides a place for beneficial bacteria live.

The first step of this process is a four week “cycling”. During this time beneficial bacteria build up in the water. Ammonia is broken down into nitrite and then to nitrate. Week 2 is a dangerous time for the animal. Ammonia levels spike as nitrite bacteria have not built up to necessary levels to keep up. For this reason some people will do a 50% water change after 10 days. This spreads the process out over 6 weeks to full completion. A better way to complete the process is to start with a set up for about 4 turtles and start with just one. In this way the ammonia spike is not a lethal rate because it is diluted.

After the four week cycle is over you can start with a 50% water change. This is necessary to remove the build up of nitrate. After this initial change a 25-50% every other week will keep the water at healthy levels with less effort.

Clean cage furniture as needed. To keep the stones clean you can use snails, algae eaters or guppies. Guppies will clean up any food the turtle leaves behind and will become food when the turtle becomes large enough. Creating these small ecosystems can be as much fun if not more than the turtle itself.

DO NOT dump the entire contents of the tank. You will have to start the process all over. These first four weeks can be stressful on your pet especially if you are just bringing it home.

Handling;

As with all pets your turtle needs about two weeks to get used to it’s new home. Handling during this time should be keep to a minimum. Too much love can kill! After your pet is comfortable start with short handlings over the thank. From there move at a gradual pace toward long periods of play.

Feeding;

Your turtle will eat almost anything it can get in it’s mouth. Much of it is not healthy for it. Turtles are omnivorous. They require a rounded diet of live meat, fruits, vegetables and greens. Refer to care for Bearded Dragons and Iguanas for a list of acceptable foods.

Canned, dried or prepackaged foods should not be used as the sole content of their diet. Many of these lack several key nutrients and are loaded with unhealthy levels of preservatives. They also do not provide the turtle with a chase. This is healthy exercise.

When feeding crickets, meal worms or wax worms always use a complete multi-vitamin, mineral and calcium supplement. This is a great way to ensure your pets health and longevity.

Use caution when feeding wild caught bugs from your yard. They make great treats but can be poisonous. When catching the bugs be sure that no chemicals have been sprayed in the area within the past week. These pesticides can be on the outside of the insect.