| 3" SHORTER SHIFTS |
| 1. Knock out the cotter pin from the side of the shifter with an awl or center punch, and remove the spring and white plastic stick, as well as the reverse lockout ring and shifter knob. All you should have left is the bare metal tube, the pivot ball, and the cable connection sticking off of the bottom. 2. Remove the C-Clamp that holds down the spring with a pliers or screwdriver. 3. The distance from the groove (for the C-Clamp) to the shoulder (the shift knob sits on) is almost exactly 4". I had the welder cut out 3"-centered between these two locations. 4. The tube of the shifter is nice thick metal. Chamfer the ends of the pieces such that when you put them back together (minus the 3" of tube) they form a valley all the way around the cut. This is to hold the metal of the weld. Tack weld the two pieces together, and then fill in the groove all the way around. 5. Grind the weld flush with the tube all the way around, then sand until smooth. Paint if you like, (you won't see much of it when you're done.) 6. Put the reverse lockout stick, spring, etc... back together except for the cotter pin. You need to make a new hole in the plastic stick for the pin. In taking out exactly 3" of the stick, it should make the last fat plastic bead on the stick line up almost perfectly with the cotter pin hole. Make sure this is so by looking through the hole. You can either try to drill the stick's new hole through the cotter pin's hole, or you can put the stick in a vise and drill it there. Be CAREFUL!!! Start with a very small bit to make won't leave much material on the sides. Take your time. 7. Reassemble the lockout, and test fit the cotter pin. It should take some force to push it into the new hole, but you shouldn't need to hammer it in (THIS MAY SPLIT THE STICK, OR WEAKEN ITS STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY! Enough so that it may break while driving!) 8. Reinstall the stick into the console, and attach the cables according to factory specs. |