Ribera Norte... for Birding

Ribera Norte is ideal for birding
Ribera Norte is an excellent place for birding. I have personally seen over 160 species here. It is my "home patch" and every visit here is sheer bliss. If your are a birder visiting Buenos Aires, a visit to the downtown reserve of Costanera Sur is a "must" due to its proximity and greater avian diversity, but always remember that Ribera Norte also has singular attractions. Some birds that are common here are rarely seen at Costanera Sur. So you may want to include Ribera Norte in your schedule. Also on this page is an introduction to the Otamendi Nature Reserve, located 70 km north of Buenos Aires. The resources available on this page should help you decide what places you want to visit.

CONTENTS
Birding Field Guides
Birds of Ribera Norte (includes printable checklist)
Basics of Argentine Birding (commonest BA birds plus description and photos of the Rufous Hornero)

Nature reserves near Buenos Aires:
- Costanera Sur
- Ribera Norte (includes a comparison with Costanera Sur)
- Otamendi nature reserve, with abundant information

Just a photo of the Glittering-bellied Emerald

PLEASE NOTE:
On weekends I am available as an English-speaking guide to visit Ribera Norte and other reserves in the Buenos Aires area. I can also take you further afield on day trips to the best birding spots, starting early. To contact me click here.

"Birds of Southern South America"
by Martín de la Peña and Maurice Rumboll - Collins Illustrated Checklist - ISBN: 0002200775

I rather prefer the first - in spite of being pricier - since the drawings are more accurate (though not necessarily more attractive). With it you are likely to be more successful at identifying (especially with ducks and raptors). An important advantage is that the distribution maps are right alongside each bird species. Because the country is large and there are so many species (approx. 1,000), you'll probably need to refer to the maps a great deal, especially on a first visit.

Birds that are often easily seen (or heard):
(Underlined species are birds that are not so common elsewhere, so Ribera Norte is a great place to see them!)
White-crested Tyrannulet, Solitary Black Cacique, White-Throated Hummingbird (in winter), Gilded Sapphire, Green-Barred Woodpecker, Checkered Woodpecker, Plumbeous Rail, Giant Wood-Rail, Grey-necked Wood-Rail, Rufous-sided Crake (heard more than seen), Sayaca Tanager, Curve-billed Reedhaunter (heard more than seen), Picazuro Pigeon. Also many herons nest in summer: Snowy Egret, Cattle Egret and Black-crowned Night-Heron. Limpkin often seen as well.

Other common birds. Masked Gnatcatcher, Narrow-billed Woodcreeper, Scarlet-headed Blackbird (virtually no sightings through the 2007-2008 summer), Yellow-winged Blackbird (recently has become rare), Shiny Cowbird, Bay-winged Cowbird.

Raptors & owls: Roadside Hawk, Crested Caracara, Chimango Caracara (overfly), Bay-winged Hawk (less common). Owls: Great Horned Owl (temporary in winter), Striped Owl (bred 2 chicks July-September 2004).

Common Winter Visitors: White-tipped Plantcutter, Various gulls (overfly or seen on beach at low tide), Golden-crowned Warbler, Tropical Parula.
Common Spring and/or Summer Visitors: Tropical Kingbird, Bran-coloured Flycatcher, Red-eyed Vireo, Vermilion Flycatcher (September), Dark-billed Cuckoo, Pied Water-Tyrant, Small-billed Elaenia.

Argentina is a fairly big country that boasts a huge latitudinal range. This implies a wide diversity of climates and habitats, with many areas still with natural vegetation. This includes rainforests, arid bushland, marshes, inland lakes, grasslands, high mountains, etc. (The Aconcagua, on the andean border between Chile and Argentina, is the highest mountain of the American continent.)

As a result of this diversity, the country hosts over 1,000 species of birds (including pellagic and antarctic species). But in order to tick off 50% of them you might have to travel the country end-to-end, or visit at different times of the year.

But that is beyond the scope of this short summary, so let’s start with some basics: our national bird, and then take a quick look at the very common species you are sure to see in Buenos Aires city parks, the town most likely to be your entry point.

Other common birds you are sure to see in city parks

In the city parks you may see a number of common birds, especially if you look out for them. Before I visit a foreign country as a tourist or on business I am overwhelmed by all the new birds covered by the fieldguides In such cases it would be nice to have a short list of the very common fare, those that one would certainly want to see, but then put aside and not confuse with more interesting stuff once you get to a nature reserve. Here then is a basic list you might wish to "study up" before your first visit to Argentina. It covers the MOST common fare. You will still need a guide book, but at least you'll know which to concentrate on.

House Sparrow (Passer domesticus)
If you come from Europe you won’t find this abundant species very exciting. It was introduced over a century ago and has colonised every town in the country - in fact, any place close to human habitation. It has surely displaced it’s local equivalent, the lovely Chingolo (Rufous-collared Sparrow – Zonotrichia capensis) which you can also see in parks, and the Saffron Finch (Sicalis flaveola), quite uncommon now in the town. Luckily, House Sparrows are rarely seen in wildlife areas.

Flycatchers: Prepare to see and hear the Great Kiskadee (Pitangus sulfuratus). This is a very common bird. Yellow belly. Black across eyes. White above and below this black facial mask. The black crown hides a yellow crest, visible only when the bird is in "high state of alert". One possible transcription of its call is "kiss-ka-dee". I suspect this comes from French: Qu'est-ce qu'il dit" - or "What's he saying"?? :)) The call has also given the bird its vernacular names in Spanish: "Ben-te-veo", (or also "Bicho Feo" [pronnounced beech or fayor], which means "ugly critter"). Other calls are also common, such as a haggish "wehh", or some nasty and aggressive trills or clickety sounds.

Doves: The cosmopolitan Rock Dove is here too, but you should also see the smaller Eared Dove (Zenaida auriculata) (note few black spots on back) or the large Picazuro Pigeon (Columba picazuro) (note the colourful pattern on rear of neck. Identify by it's large size and, in flight, by the whitish crescent marking on upper side of wings).

Thrushes: The Rufous-bellied Thrush is very common, and the only thrush you are likely to see in a Buenos Aires park (though there is also the Creamy-bellied Thrush which is likely seen at nature reserves). I don't live in a downtown hotel, but I suspect that even from your room you might hear it's insistent and lively song, which begins at the annoying hour of about 3:30 am every day in Spring ans Summer, from September onwards.

Mockingbird: The Chalk-browed Mockingbird (Mimus saturninus) is common. Whitish brow and long tail. Strange calls: William. H. Hudson recalls a memorable encounter with one: he describes how a variety of very odd calls coming from a dense bush seemed to be the produced by 3 or 4 different bird species, but they all proved to be from a single mockingbird!

In parks you may also see House Wrens and White-rumped Swallows (in spring and summer), Cattle Tyrants, Shiny Cowbirds, Bay-winged Cowbirds, Picui Ground-Dove, etc.

Of course, anything is possible with birds. On two occasions I saw a flock of Maguari Storks flying high over BA city centre.

If you are a birdwatcher you surely will have heard of the Costanera Sur nature reserve, a fairly large reserve very close to the city centre. Even if you only walk along the perimeter wall you will see many species, particularly waterfowl. It is good place to see the very handsome Black-necked Swan (Cygnus melancoryphus), which breeds here.

The reserve covers 370 hectares (=910 acres). Much of this area is made of lagoons with perimetral dikes that were built for an ambitious development project, later abandoned. The dryer low grounds are quite invaded by Pampas Grass (Cortaderia selloana), which would not be quite the original vegetation that found on the coast of the Rio de la la Plata (River Plate). Also the exotic and invasive Yellow Iris has colonised many areas. The elevated dikes, which today function as wide trails (dirt roads wide enough for 2 cars) are in some places lined with trees, many of which are not native. Some parts are forested with the native Aliso trees (COMPOSITAE: Tessaria integrifolia). The reserve hosts a surprising number of bird species. On a typical morning of birding in Spring you are likely to see 70 to 80 species. A "Big Day" lasting 11 hours, held here on 5th October 2003, with only 5 participating teams, produced an amazing result: 137 species!

Opening times: 8 am to 6 pm. During the summer (from about November onwards) closing time extends to 7pm.
Note the reserve is closed Mondays! During storms it is also closed momentarily, until the threat of rain is gone.

There are two entrances. Both are on a lovely wide boulevard with a rather long name "Av. Costanera Carlos M. Noel" (also shown on maps as "Av. de los Inmigrantes". It is lined with large Tipa trees, native of the province of Jujuy, in the north of Argentina. Your average taxi driver may not know the names of the streets in this area, but if you say "Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur" that should get you there. The more popular southern entrance, where the visitor's centre and restrooms are, is at the continuation of the downtown street "Estados Unidos" (which changes name to become the little-known Rosario Vera Peñaloza street). This is also known as the "Lola Mora" entrance, named after a famous artistic fountain located there. The other (less-known, northern) entrance is located more or less in line with Viamonte street. This entrance is much closer to downtown and you can easily reach it walking straight down Córdoba avenue. At the port area this becomes (little known) "C. Gierson" street. Continue in the same direction for 2 more blocks, with the docks on your left, until you can go no further. Then turn right and walk along the boulevard till you reach the entrance gates of the reserve, a couple of hundred yards away on your left.

Many people use the reserve for jogging, siestas, picnics, cycling, etc. It can get quite crowded on a Sunday afternoon. Bring a good sunscreen and a waterbottle. It can be quite windy as the area is exposed to the open coast. There are coin-operated soda dispensers only at the Visitor's centre. Some snacks are sold outside the gates (ice-creams, etc.) and there are some pleasant steak restaurants ("parrillas") a couple of blocks south-west of the Lola Mora fountain. (On weekends these can be full from 1pm to 3pm so you may have to wait for a seat if you are not early. Don't expect barBQ's to start serving before noon, though.)

This is an interesting place in Acasusso (northern suburbs of the city), where you are likely to see many rails. If you have not already done so, GO TO THE ENGLISH-LANGUAGE HOMEPAGE OF THE RIBERA NORTE WEBISTE (which contains the page you are seeing now).

COMPARISON: Ribera Norte vs. Costanera Sur
I think this section may be very useful to the foreign visitor who comes to the country for a short time.
The City of Buenos Aires has its own riverside reserve (Costanera Sur), which is very much larger 370 hectares. So then, why bother going out to Ribera Norte that only has 10 hectares, ie some 25 acres, a full half-hour drive from the city? Here is a comparison based on personal preferences:

In favour of Ribera Norte:
Though much smaller, it is more attractive. It doesn't require walking great distances. It is more "quaint", I would say. You can get closer to the wildlife. There is a greater variety of plants and more shade. Safe to visit. Far fewer people, with hardly a soul during the mornings, and the few you may meet will most likely be "nature-aware" (volunteer helpers, nature photographers, quiet strollers, or the odd birder.) (However, on weekdays there are pre-arranged school visits so it would be best to call the reserve so your visit does not to clash with one of these.)
Much better chance to see the rails: Plumbeous Rail, Giant Wood-Rail, Grey-Necked Wood-Rail (all these are common), Rufous-sided Crake is a speciality here, and frequently seen especially in the evening (you will most certainly hear it at least). Also the Spotted Rail and Red-and-white Crake are sighted (though more rarely). Also Hummingbirds are a certainty. The Checkered Woodpecker and the Curve-billed Reedhaunter, which are common in Ribera Norte, are not recorded at Costanera Sur (update: after a first record of the woodpecker at Costanera Sur in September 2004 it has since taken hold). The Scarlet-headed Blackbird (the "Federal" in Spanish) breeds here (update: not seen sin 2008, you must go all the way out to Otamendi to see it now, or wish for a glimpse at Costanera Sur), with its incredibly brilliant reddy-orange (not really scarlet at all!) and contrasting black. If you are here for it, ask the warden, and he'll give you indications on where to look from to have a better chance of seeing it.
VERY much better for botanists. The trail is lined with a great variety of native plant species.
It IS open on Mondays (weather permitting), while Costanera is closed.

Against Ribera Norte:
It's not so easy to get to, and 30 mintues to an hour away from your downtown Buenos Aires hotel. However, this website includes detailed instructions and maps on how to reach it. Consider travelling time from downtown: 30+ minutes by car when there is little traffic.
There is a chance of your visit coinciding with a school visit (may happen on weekdays between mid-March though November).
The reserve may be closed due to bad weather, high tide, etc. These closures are quite frequent, so calling the reserve the day before will reduce the risk of frustration (but are not a guarantee that an unexpected rain or high tide could upset your visit!)
It is closed on Boxing Day and New Year's Day (26th December and 1st January). I'm told by the straight-faced wardens that this is to allow the birds to recover from the numerous firecrackers set off all around, particularly at the neighbouring clubs that host late parties well into the morning. In fact, at the turn of the century, on the 1st January 2000, the racket had been so loud that the entire nesting colony comprising 3-4 species of herons abandoned en masse and left the chicks to starve at the nest. So it certainly makes sense!

In favour of Costanera Sur:
Has more bird species.
You will certainly see more waterfowl (possibly Black-necked Swan and more duck species), grebes, coots, etc. (Update: in 2007 and 2008 the long dry summers completely dried out the lagoons so there was not a coot nor duck to be seen. Winter rains led to a recovery in 2007, but not assurances for 2008. Hopefully this problem that seriously reduces the avian biodiversity will be remedied by allowing River Plate water into the lagoons, though there is reluctance as the waters are contaminated to a degree.)
Costanera Sur is very close to the downtown area of Buenos Aires, where your hotel will most likely be situated, so you won't loose 40 to 50 minutes travelling each way.
Less affected by rain and high tides, so will more likely be open the day after a storm (it does close temporarily during storms when it is raining hard).
Some signposting of the wildlife. Also if you like doing a lot of walking you may enjoy the place more.

Against Costanera Sur:
On hot and sunny days in summer there is no shade along some parts of the inner roads. In winter it is more exposed to cold winds. Getting round the place requires a lot of walking. Many cyclists. If it's a nice day on a weekend you will encounter many visitors, most of which are here for jogging rather than to see nature. Some are noisy and may not know how to respect your hobby. Birdwatchers are still far less numerous than birds, and many people still don't seem to have a clue as to why a person would want to stop on the trail and look at a bush with binoculars!
Costanera Sur reserve closes to the public on Mondays AND national holidays!

Travelling further north is the Otamendi reserve, 67 km away. To get there take the so-called "Panamerican highway" (officially the "Pastorini" motorway - but this name is not used!) towards Rosario. Turn off right at Otamendi (the junction is at the 67.5 km milestone) and go back on the sideroad a couple of hundred yards, then turn left. Drive through the small town of Otamendi. (WARNING: mind for the unmarked, very high speed bumps, which are sometimes not easily seen due to shadows). Keep driving straight on for some 500 meters until you see a sign on the right to enter the Otamendi Reserve. Here is the visitor's centre. There is parking space, a picnic area, and a small museum. Before starting the trail you should announce yourself to the warden on duty. Note that group visits to the upper trail are required to hire an "official guide".

The reserve consists basically of two "terraces": the lower area, a huge expanse of marshes, reeds and lagoons, and the upper terrace, with some forested areas and "Chilca" bushland. The visitor's centre and the marked trail is on the upper terrace. The shape of the reserve resembles a sort of deep "U", which is not ideal as some of the land surrounded by the reserve on 3 sides is planned for development. The upper section was once a farm.

2008 Udate: The visitor's center has just been done up, and the reserve has been declared a Ramsar Site!
In June 2008 a large fire consumed 1,000 hectares in the lower terrace and burnt ome or all of the wooden bridges on the trail to the Large Lagoon, so it remains to be seen if and when this will be reopened.

Take the trail which starts behind the visitor´s centre, winding through countryside with Ombú (Phytolacca dioica) and Tala (Celtis tala) trees. The Ombú is easily told by the shape of the base of the trunk: it would appear to have been made of half-melted wax! Note the zigzag pattern on the smaller branches of Tala. If a succession of Tala trees are found in a straigt line this is often because they have grown from seeds dispersed by birds that once rested on the wires of long-gone fences belonging to the original farm. The open spaces are overgrown with the exotic Wild Teasle, and various experimental efforts are under way to try to erradicate this. Birds that you can see here are: Masked Gnatcatcher, Sooty-fronted Spinetail, Stripe-crowned Spinetail, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Small-billed Elaenia, Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet (these last three birds only in spring/summer), Blue-billed Black-Tyrant, perhaps one or 2 Grosbeak species, and many others. Keep your eyes open for raptors: Harris (Bay-winged) Hawks and Black Vultures are not uncommon. At the far end of the trail is a viewing platform. From this vantage point you will see the huge expanse of low wetlands, part of the Paraná valley system, which is (mostly) protected by the Otamendi Reserve. See photo below. From here you might be able to see Black-necked Swans in the (very) distant lagoons. Don't miss going down the lush slopes (good birds here sometimes), though it is dominated by various exotic plants (European violets) and trees. These slopes are ancient embankments of the Paraná system. You are not allowed to enter these wetlands by yourself (which abound in birds of prey, reedhaunters, spinetails, marshbirds, rush-tyrant, etc.) but organized walks can be aranged (See "Trail to the Big Lagoon").

Photo: (c) A. Earnshaw

A male Glittering-bellied Emerald (Chlorostilbon aureoventris) feeding off the lovely bloom of Salvia guaranítica
Note dark blue tailfeathers, which quickly distinguish it from the Gilded Sapphire which has a bronze tail.
This flower has a curious mechanical device: as the bird inserts its beak a leaver system moves
a part of the flower down, which dabs pollen on the head of the bird.
Photographed at Ribera Norte by Alec Earnshaw - March 2000
(c) A. Earnshaw

KINDLY CONSIDER:
I am available (preferably on weekends) as an English-speaking guide to visit Ribera Norte, Otamendi and
other hotspots near Buenos Aires.

to contact me click here