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Water Dragons |
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Welcome to the main Water Dragon page. On this page we will be covering all the basic care and keeping requirements of these beautiful lizards. If there is anything I may have forgotten please dont hesitate to drop me a line and let me know, or if you have any questions dont hesitate to ask.
Water Dragons,Physignathus spp., are members of an old world family of lizards known as the Agamidae. This group contains up to 3900 species in about 35 genera. So for all sake and purposes most care requirements are very similar for the genus, but all information on this page is referring to the Green Water Dragon.
The most commonly seen Water Dragon is the Green Water Dragon (sometimes referred to as the Chinese Water Dragon), Physignathus cocincinus. There are as many as 8 other species in the genus, including the well known but difficult to obtain Brown Water Dragon, Physignathus lesueri, of Australia and New Guinea.
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Green Water Dragon (Physignathus Cocincinus)
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Green Water Dragons are relatively large and are somewhat reminiscent of Green Iguanas,(Iguana Iguana) in appearance. They do not get nearly as big though. The maximum length including tail is 3 feet for adult males, females are invariably shorter and somewhat slighter than the males. They are regularly imported from several Asian countries, especially Thailand and Southern China. In some localities they are heavily protected. Green Water Dragons are among the most suitable pet lizards. They are colorful, easy to handle, do not grow to big, settle well into captivity, and, given the right conditions, will breed for there keeper. The robust, slightly laterally compressed body is generally lush green in color. There are touches of blue and pink around the throat and often a yellowish wash along the flanks. Some males will also have orange under his throat. Both sexes sport a spiny crest that runs from the back of the head to well onto the tail. Adult males have a somewhat larger and more spectacular nuchal crest than the females and the individual spines are slightly longer. They have well developed limbs with five clawed digits on each. They have big orange eyes also. |
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Habitat and Habits |
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The Green Water Dragon is often found in riverine forests, where it stays close to water. An aboreal creature, it often frequents foliage overhanging water, into which it will drop and take refuge when threatened. It is an accomplished swimmer, propelling itself through the water with lateral movements of it`s flattened tail while holding it`s limbs close to it`s body. To avoid predators it will submerse itself, coming up for air among vegitation and only returning to land when the predator is gone. It also is quite at home on the ground as well showing amazing speed when escaping predators or chasing prey. It often runs on it`s hind limbs! Green Water Dragons can be regarded as semi-gregarious, often living in groups of one adult male with several adult females. Juveniles tend to be more solitary and secretive. The dominant male is very territorial and will defend his territory without hesitation. Several territories can be found within view of eachother, each dominant male advertising his presence with frequent head bobbing. Any subordinate males are driven off, but violent fighting is rare. When actively engaged in defending his territory or breeding condition the colors of the dominant male will be much brighter. |
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Selection |
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Okay well you wanna get a Water Dragon, the first thing your gonna want to do is pick a reputable and knowledgable source. Unfortunately most pet shop employees know precious little about reptilian husbandry. And this is reflected on the conditions in which they keep there lizards. Look at the caging. Is it clean? Is there a light above 1 corner to provide a hot spot? Is the drinking water fresh? Is there food in the cage, and what sort of food? Can the pet shop accurately answer your questions? Compare there answers to the reading you do here or from another reliable source. If they cannot satisfactorily answer your questions, the chances are they are not caring for their lizards properly. Shop elsewhere.
Choose a Vet who is well versed in reptilian husbandry. Because unfortunatly you may need them more sooner than later. And the treatment of lizards is a specialty practice. Not all vets will be able to accurately diagnose an ailing lizard. Ask your reputable pet shop to recommend 1 or spend some time on the phone finding 1 in your area. This is very important before you purchase any lizard.
Prepare the caging before you purchase your lizard. Because chances are you will be getting a highly stressed individual. It will need a secure cage in which it can feel safe. With lighting, heating, food and water in place. Acquiring a lizard should never be done on impulse. You must understand that they will have very specific needs that you are obligated to provide. The entire procedure, from purchase to health care to feeding to caging requirements, needs to be thought through first.
How do you choose a healthy lizard? Skin color is a good obvious first thing to look at. Is their color vibrant and intense, like a new growing plant? Or is it sickly and pasty? Unless your lizard is about to shed, the colors should be bright.
Next, choose a lizard with good body weight. Do not purchase one with bones showing. Especially in the pelvic area. Most lizards store fat reserves in the tail base area. If the pelvic bones are showing and the tail very skinny, it`s a very good sign that this specimen has`nt eaten in some time. And above and beyond stress, this animal may have more serious underlying problems.
Choose a lizard that is alert and that has bright eyes and watches the movements around it- your movements, for example. If they seem sluggish and non involved it may be a bad sign. If you can, try to see your lizard eat, if they go right after food, it is a very good thing. If they are still lethargic and uncaring steer clear of this one.
Captive bred and raised animals are the best way to go. They are usually the healthiest and easiest to tame. Wild caught specimens tend to not settle into captivity well, are covered in parasites, and dont tame easy. Even if you do purchase a captive raised lizard, you should still quarantine them from your other lizards until you can have a qualified vet look them over for parasites and any other underlying problems that your new lizard may spread to the others.
What is the lizard actively doing? Is it facing the front of the cage alert? Is it actively sunning itself under a heat lamp? Or is it hiding in the corner or to weak to move to the heat lamp?
Does the lizard have any obvious wounds or damage? No broken tails or limbs; no banged up nose. If so wounds incurred are slow to heal in a stressed lizard. |
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Substrate (ground cover) |
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This is up to your personal preference. I use fir bark or otherwise known as (reptibark) this works very good and is non toxic. Do not use cedar chips because this is toxic to your lizards. I also use some calci-sand on the other side of the cage, as lizards tend to lick and this can help provide some added calcium to their diet. You can also use news paper, lizard litter (not cat litter), orchid bark, cypress mulch, peat moss, sand and peat soil mix or you can use indoor outdoor carpet. Some places sell pre cut pieces of this as reptile carpet. If you are going to use this make sure the sides are`nt frayed as the lizard may swallow it and become impacted. |
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Plants and branches |
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I use fake plants because they are easy to clean look good and are cheap. Water Dragons like to destroy their cages, so fake plants tend to stand up to the punishment. But if you want to go live, some non toxic plants are Dragon plants (dracaena), Pothos (scindapsus aureus), Ficus benjamina trees, Monstera deliciosa (philodendron) and staghorn ferns. If you want to use a specific plant and it is`nt on this list, I would suggest a little research to find out if it`s toxic or not. Or email me the name of the plant and I will check into it for you.
For climbing use strong diagonal branches, for roosting or basking use strong horizontal branches. You can use strong secured wood if you want, just make sure it is sturdy and wont fall down possibly causing your Water dragon some unecessary injury. |
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Water pan |
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As with your enclosure the bigger the better. Hence the name Water Dragon. To insure your Water Dragon has fresh water daily a miny kitty litter pan works well. Any thing bigger gets more difficult to clean. Clean water is essential to all living creatures. Most of the time Water Dragons use their water as a toilet, so make sure it is fresh daily. Even if you are using a water fall or some other moving water apparatus. These tend to harbor bacteria and still need to be cleaned daily. |
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Lighting |
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Water Dragons require suitable uva-uvb flourescent lighting to aid in calcium absorbtion and vitamin d3 production. (vitalite, durotest or zoomeds iguana or reptile light work best). Plant grow lights do not produce uvb and most full spectrum bulbs do not either. The light must produce wavelenghts in the 290-320nm range.
Also Water Dragons require a basking spot. A 100watt bulb is a sufficient heat source in a 30gallon and up enclosure. I like to use reptile basking bulbs or red heat bulbs in a proper reflector that can handle hot burning bulbs. These seem to work very good for providing the proper day time basking area for my Water Dragons. |
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Heating |
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Water Dragons need daytime temperatures at or around 80-85 degrees. With night time temperatures safely dropping to 70-75 degrees. It is important that you set up the cage to allow your Water Dragon to thermoregulate. That is have a hot side of the cage and have a cool side. So that your Water Dragon can decide what temperature they want to be at. On the hot side I use a under tank heater, It is important to use a under tank heater that is the appropriate size for you enclosure. I do not use heat rocks because you can not regulate the surface temperature, and your Water Dragon may inadvertantly burn themself from the inside out. I also put my basking lamp on the hot side with a perch, just in case they want to get closer to it without touching it and burning themselves. The cool side has got there Water source and a hide spot. The Uva-Uvb light stretches across the entire enclosure. |
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Enclosure |
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If you want a Water Dragon you will need a large enclosure. Water Dragons as you will find out love to run, jump and dig up there cages. The reason most have damage on there snouts is that they have literally rubbed there faces off trying to get out of to small of an enclosure. An adult male can live his life happily in an enclosure the size of a 55 gallon long aquarium. They need a space at least 2x their total length. |
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So we are talking about 6 feet long (side to side), at least 2 to 3 feet deep and 4-6 feet high to do it right. If you are talking about multiple Water Dragons, like 1 male with say 3 females. You will need a large walk-in closet size enclosure. And if you notice 1 or 2 are`nt feeding or basking properly, you are seeing the results of intimidation and need to add more feeding and basking sites. I am currently constructing an enclosure the equivalent size of a 260 gallon aquarium for my 2 Water Dragons. This should prove to be far more beneficial for them. I will post pics when it is complete. |
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Feeding |
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Hatchlings and juveniles should be offered 2-3 week old gutloaded crickets. Also finely chopped vegetables and fruits. As they grow offer them slightly bigger crickets add in some mealworms and baby "pinkie" mice and occasionally some waxworms. Feed them every 2 days or more if they still seem hungry.
Adults will eat large crickets, kingworms and pink to fuzzy mice every 2 to 3 days, or more if they are still hungry. Also feed some greens and fruits. Adult Water Dragons also like soft cat food real chicken dinner. If you are going to keep large quantities of crickets in the cage with your Water Dragons make sure you put in some cereal or something for your crickets to eat so they dont decide to eat your Dragon. Also for both Juveniles and Adults, dust your prey items with reptile multivitamins every other feeding should be fine. Also if you have a large enough water source, add in some feeder goldfish or guppies for a treat. |
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Misting |
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Water Dragons enjoy this very much and it helps in shedding and keeping the humidity up. But dont over due it. Once or twice a day of a fine mist should be sufficient. |
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LINKS |
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Housing |
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Food & Supplements |
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Heating & Lighting |
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cages by design |
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Zoomed |
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Jurassic snacks |
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habitat systems |
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Herp food |
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Reptile supply |
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herp supplies.com |
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Cricket farm |
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reptile shack |
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reptile housing authority |
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Live crickets |
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Z pets |
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Bush herpatological |
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Show case cages |
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This is a pic of the new 260 gallon Reptarium I put together for them. Guido and Roxy are much happier in this. I put several pics of this setup in the my lizards2 picture page. Just click the pics link and go check this thing out it is awesome. |
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