The Salmon Slab, Bamford Crag
Aspect
High up above Bamford village is this small but perfectly formed gritstone outcrop,
for a long time the sole preserve of Ron Fawcett, who lived down the road. Lack of traffic
has meant the lower-grade classics are not even slightly polished and the whole place has a
beautiful remote feel, even though you're still in the Hope valley.
Is this how Stanage was 40 years ago?
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Access
Permission to climb or walk on Bamford needs to be sought from the gamekeeper on
01142 630892 (ask for Chris), and not the number printed in the Stanage guide.
It is rarely refused except during the grouse murdering season (end of March to end of September)
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| Jetrunner |
E4 6a |
 Takes the wall via the pocket or the left arete to the top break, then climbs the arete on the right-hand side.
Matt Gallagher on Jetrunner. Photo © Tony Lovatt. |
FA: Andy Bailey 1983. |
| Salmon Left-Hand |
E5/6 6b |
 As for Jetrunner to the top break, then high step into twin pockets, right foot into high right pocket, smear left and top.
Jon Read fighting the up-draft on Salmon-LH - helium-filled jackets, all the rage now. Photo © Tony Lovatt. |
FA: Nick Dixon 1995. |
| Salmon Direct |
E6 6c |
As for Jetrunner to the top break, then 6c moves to gain high pocket from right (left foot in pocket), high smear rightwards and top. |
FA: J. Read 21.12.98? (in mistake for The Salmon). |
| Salmon Combo |
E6 6b |
 As for Jetrunner to the top break, then 6b moves from break as for Salmon LH, tricky left-foot cross-though into high pocket, finish as for Salmon Direct.
Matt Gallagher on the Salmon Combo. Photo © T. de Linde |
FA: ???. Was on-sighted by John Arran 14.3.99 |
| The Salmon |
E7 6c |
As for Combo or Direct to stand in the high pocket. Traverse right to the small group of poor pockets, and finish as for Smoked. Slightly artificial as it's easier to make the final move of Direct than to head right-wards. |
FA: Johnny Dawes 1984. Reclimbed by Dawes 1995, after it lost a crucial pebble (used to rock up onto to gain the far right-hand pockets) |
| Smoked Salmon |
E8 7a/b |
Fairly immaterial how you gain the top break considering what comes next. From just left of Curving Crack, make three desperate moves up to gain poor edge and then slightly better pocket on right. Finish direct on pockets. Harder for the short! |
FA: Johnny Dawes 1995. |
| Curving Crack |
VS 5a |
The obvious crack on the right that, well, curves. Finish up the chimney to the right, awkwardly. Nice climbing though. |
FA: ???. |
| Poached Salmon |
E4/5 6b |
 Takes the arete right of Curving Crack diect via a series of slaps, direct to the break. Get some gear in and reach up and left for a short flake (hard for the short) to finish.
Poached Salmon. Photo © T. De Linde |
FA: J. Read 1999. |
Other Routes
Quien Sabe? - VS 5a - great line up a ramp followed by an exposed crack, delightful!
Undercut Crack - E2 pain - the classic example of "50's thuggery". Exchange skin for height on this overhanging monster.
Wrinkled Wall - a classic VS with one of the nicest settings in the Peak. Just nearby is Jasmine, E7 6c, Ron Fawcett's last major new route named after his daughter.
Avoiding the Traitors - Johnny Dawes' hard E7 6c roof problem right of Undercut Crack.
See the Stanage guidebook (BMC 1989) for further information and route descriptions.
Thanks to fellow addict Paul Clark for much discussion about smears, pebbles and pockets. Cheers Paul!
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