| To Convert or not to Convert: |
| Bayonet options for the Modern Sharps Rifle |
| By Dan Wambaugh |
| Introduction: In my latest article for "WDTW? - Part 3 continued: Getting to the Point--Those pesky Bayonets Again" |
| I documented the issuing of bayonets to the 1st USSS while under the command of Lt. Col. Trepp (December 1862-November 1863). In my conclusions I noted that none of the manufacturers are making a Sharps bayonet to fit the various Garrett/Shiloh Pederosoli/Armi-Sport rifles now in use.� Dan Wambaugh has informed me that if one has the patience and persistence, they can convert one of the Springfield/Enfield bayonets to fit their Sharps.� Dan wants to caution readers that this can be a difficult project to undertake and he has provided only general guideline in this article.� He stresses that taking your time and wearing eye protections is a must!� If you have questions about this project you can email him at [email protected].� WES |
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| Dan writes: "Finding a socket bayonet to fit your Sharps rifle is not a difficult task, if you know what to look for.� First off, you have two big choices, followed by two smaller choices.� The first decision you must make is whether you want an original or reproduction bayonet.� Granted, an original Sharps bayonet can be costly beyond extremes ($800 in 1999-WES), but as I've come to learn through experience, a period bayonet for another weapon that has the look, but isn't necessarily a Sharps bayonet can also work.� I picked up a bayonet from a .69 caliber "Colonial" Enfield at the Ohio Civil War Show that, with about half an hour's work, fit my (Garrett) Sharps like a glove.� An original bayonet also has one quality that no current reproduction has ever had: true American steel.� As Phil Odren will tell you, his original Springfield bayonet was tearing up the hard ground of McDowell Virginia while I was cursing and re-bending my reproduction Springfield bayonet back straight again.� There is no substitute for American or British steel of the period. |
| If you decide that you want a reproduction bayonet, you will find that you'll end up paying about half of what you would for an original, but rest assured you will get what you pay for either way.� What you will most likely find at events that comes closest to fitting your Sharps barrel will be a Springfield bayonet for .69 caliber muskets.� These will NOT work; however, because the bayonet lug for the M1842 and M1816 Springfield is located on the bottom of the muzzle, while the bayonet lug for the Sharps (the front sight assembly) is on TOP.� The result will be your converted bayonet will fit on the WRONG SIDE, (meaning to the blade will be on the left of the muzzle instead of the right)� For those of us used to going without bayonets, this small compromise might be seen as no big deal.� But if you're going to take the time and effort to purchase and convert a decent bayonet for your Sharps, you might as well go a step further and get it right.� |
| The second choice is whether or not you want to purchase a reproduction Sharps bayonet, or convert an existing reproduction Springfield or Enfield bayonet.� Bill has informed me that the premier 19th century gunsmith of our time, John Zimmerman is offering correct Sharps bayonets.� If the price is right on these, (+$100) I say go for it.� Since it seems every year the Sharps rifles produced by Pederosoli and other firms have minor but distinct muzzle dimensions, you will need to do some hand fitting.� But fret not, for where there is a will there's a way! |
| The most important tool you will need to convert your Brand X bayonet to fit the Sharps is either a good Dremel tool, or some grinding bits for your electric drill. Secondly you will need at least one good file; a round or 'rat tail' file is absolutely necessary.� |
| Now any bayonet you wish to fit onto your Sharps should at LEAST start to go onto the muzzle of the rifle.� If you can slide the end onto the muzzle and it stays in place, then you're in business.� But if it won't fit you're in for a long job ahead. |
| Begin by using your Dremel/drill and grinding wheel to rough out the inside of the socket.� This work will be tedious but you'll want to make sure that you are evenly grinding out the interior of the socket.� I don't use calipers to measure the amount of steel removed but tend to eyeball the job and make adjustments accordingly.� After you've taken out at least one layer (all the metal is shiny and scarred) use the round/rat tail file to smooth (polish) it out.� This may seem pointless (as you'll be grinding again), but if you don't file the interior the rough surface can score the bluing off the muzzle when you slide it on for a 'test fit'.� You will have to repeat this step a number of times until the bayonet fits cleanly onto your barrel.� You will probably have to work out certain rough spots, such as where the safety ring stud pokes through to the interior of the socket.� |
| As you've been slowly moving your bayonet down the length of the barrel you may discover that the 'nub' opening where the front sight assembly is supposed to pass through on the bayonet is not big enough, or that it tends to gouge the metal on the barrel on either side of the Sharps sight assembly.� If this is the case file the interior of the nub gently until you slide the front sight through with no damage.� Under NO circumstances should you have to alter your front sight or any other part of your gun to fit a bayonet. |
| As you slowly slide your front sight down the little 'Z' shaped slot of the bayonet, you may find places where the sight binds against the metal.� Don't force it!� Simply take off the bayonet, file some more on the rough spots, and then put the bayonet back on and work it down the barrel until it finally fits snuggly and the muzzle of the barrel is flush with the bayonet throat. |
| Finally, the locking ring, (which should have been removed before beginning the project and set aside,) should be replaced on the bayonet, and the screw re-inserted.� You may not be able to tighten the screw as much as before, or may even have to find a slightly longer screw and cut it to fit.� |
| There you have it, clear as mud, right?� Well, I hope that more of Company B-2 will begin to focus on this often-neglected aspect of the USSS impression.� I will offer my services to anyone wishing to buy a new bayonet.� I will also help to do all the necessary work to refinish it, free of charge.� |
| A bayonet is not only a hand-to-hand weapon, but also an all-purpose tool, (entrenching tool, skillet handle, candlestick, etc.) But most important of all the original USSS volunteers did, indeed, carry them".� |
| DAN |