This section is on cat behavior. These are all questions that have been submitted or that I have been inspired to talk about because of a question submitted. If you have any topics that you would like to have discussed please feel free to email me with the topic or question.
Luckily, cats are very fastidious animals so housetraining is virtually effortless most of the time. Simply introduce the kitten or adult cat to the litter box at a time that they are ready to eliminate (evidenced by scratching around, sniffing around, etc). Usually, it only takes one time for the cat or kitten to get the idea. If the cat or kitten refuses to use the litter box, try switching the litter or placing the box in a different place, etc.
Cats are fastidious creatures, and kittens are easily trained to use a litterbox. Thus, it is a mystery when all of a sudden a cat stops using the litterbox. The first thing to rule out is medical problems. A partial urinary obstruction along with other bladder irritations will cause pain upon urination, straining, and the need for frequent urination. This will cause the cat to urinate outside the litterbox. Once medical problems have been ruled out, check the litterbox. Make sure it is kept clean. Also, try out different types of litter. Some cats really prefer one type over another and will return to using the litterbox once a "desirable" litter is used. Analyze the current situation -- have any big changes occurred lately? A new member of the family, a move into a new home, a new cat, etc. will all stress out a cat and disrupt its normal habits. Adding an extra litterbox or two might also help the situation. As you can see there is no easy answer to this question. A little investigation and analysis can help pinpoint the cause. Once the cause is found then you can work on correcting it.
Urination in the feline, as in many other species, is a means to mark territory. The urine of animals contain scents that let other animals know the identity of the urinator. By urinating on an object, the cat is saying this belongs to me. Correcting this problem is difficult since it is an instinctive action. Neutering the cat if it isn't already may reduce this tendency.
Marking is a behavior found among animals that establish territories such as the wolf pack, the lion pride, the solitary tiger, etc. Animals do not have signs to put up or surveyors to draw property lines. Instead, they use urine to say this is mine. It is typically the sexually mature males among pack animals like wolves and dogs that are responsible for establishing and defending the territory. Thus, we primarily see marking in adult male dogs. It is typically the males because they are usually the dominant dog. In multi-dog households where a female is the alpha, or most dominant, canine, she will also mark. In cats, being less pack oriented, females exhibit marking almost as much as males do. So, when your dog or cat marks you (and it is important to distinguish marking from simple urinating) or an object, it is saying "This belongs to me."
Traditionally, cats have been thought of as solitary animals, and there is some validity to this thought. Cats certainly do not form the intricate social groups like dogs or monkeys do. Some cats do epitomize the solitary, lone hunter that wants little to do with anyone else. Many cats, however, seem to seek out the company of other cats. Therefore, recent studies and thought suggests that cats are more social than we have given them credit for in the past. Cat social organizations are more loose and fluid than the dog pack, and clear dominant-submissive relationships are not always defined between cats like they are with dogs. But anyone with more than one cat knows that there is usually one cat that "rules the roost." Many cats also engage in play with one another and seek to sleep near each other. So, the answer to your question is cats as a whole ARE social animals though not to the degree dogs are. And some cats, like some people, are antisocial. More studies are needed to better define the full range and nature of cat socialization.
Cats can most certainly be trained. The reason that many people do not think they can be is because they are not as easily trained as dogs and they are usually much better at training humans than humans are at training them. Many people, however, have trained their cat(s) to do all types of tricks. And most cats are trained to use a litter box and to come when they hear the can opener or the food container shake. Cats are highly intelligent animals who although they love their humans are not typically as eager to please as dogs are. Thus, dog training methods often fail to suffice to train a cat. But with some creativity and persistence, many cats are trained to perform very elaborate exercises. Clicker Training has been quite successful in training cats.
More than likely Lily's excessive biting stems from the fact that she never learned to inhibit her biting when playing. (at her age play aggression is the most likely cause of the biting. It is possible that there is another cause but not very likely). Puppies and kittens learn from playing with their littermates how much is too much. Since she was a stray she probably never got the opportunity to learn that. The good news is that play aggression is the easiest form of aggression to alter. The basic goal is to distract her attention onto another object before she starts to bite. So, the first thing to do is to get some toys for her. Get some cat toys but also get some dog plush toys that are big enough for her to wrap her legs around and real play rough with. Whenever she starts to play rough with you turn her attention to the toys. If she starts playing with them give her a treat to reward her for proper behavior. The other thing to get is a can of compressed air. Whenever she starts biting you and you cannot get her attention on the toys, use the compressed air to distract her and then remove her from your presence (either by walking in another room or shutting her away in a room). So, basically you are providing an outlet for her play, you are letting her know that her biting is inappropriate while rewarding her when she performs appropriate behavior (ie, play with a toy). If she likes to attack you while you are walking around try tying a toy on a long string to your foot or leg so that is drags behind you. Often, the kitten will focus on the toy rather than on you.
It sounds like Lily is a normal playful kitten that just has not had the opportunity to learn proper kitten manners. It is up to you to teach her how to play. And certainly reward her with attention and treats when she is interacting with you without biting. Kittens learn quickly and Lily should pick up quickly on what is expected of her.
The timidness could be her basic personality or could be a result of a lack of proper socialization to people as a kitten or could be secondary to a very fearful or traumatic event. There is no real way to tell the exact source and it is probably a combination of basic personality plus lack of socialization. You can help alleviate this problem but may never be able to completely overcome her timidness. If this is something you want to address I'd be happy to go into more detail about it.
The raccoon noises and weird behavior are most likely the result of her being in heat. Cats, unlike dogs, repeatedly experience heat if they are not bred. The noises and behavior are most likely secondary to the hormonal changes of being in heat. My best advice is to spay her as soon as possible.
I have researched and answered these questions to the best of my ability. But I am human and make mistakes. If there is any part of my answer that you feel is incorrect, please let me know. The last thing I want is to disseminate false or incorrect information.