This is a fairly simple swap and can be done in your driveway but some fabrication is required. Before starting make sure you have a list of everything you might need. I am assuming an automatic truck, and using a 727 Torqueflite transmission. This truck is a standard box.
Some of the tools are the following:
·
A cherry picker or block and tackle (you will use this quite
often as you test fit the engine)
·
A welder capable of welding mild steal (I don’t recommend
stick welding)
·
About 10 feet of 2 x 2 x .85 to .125 mild steel tubing
·
Some ¼ inch flat steel
·
A driveshaft out of a 6 cylinder Cordoba
·
A 727 slip yoke
·
A full tool box
·
A grinder and about 3 grinding disc
·
A set of full size pickup truck A-engine mounts
·
A new transmission rubber isolator
·
4 jack stands
First things first:
Remove the 4 cylinder from the truck. With the engine out
remove the mounts and rubber isolators off the engine. Keep them handy as these
will be reused. A good cleaning of both will certainly help now. Set them
aside.
Remove the kickdown lever and shifter from the stock transmission.
This transmission is very close to the 727/904 family of transmission so these
levers can be swapped onto the new transmission. This will allow the use of the
stock floor shifter.
Cut out the factory steel mounts on the main crossmember.
These will not be reused and can be discarded.
The hard part begins:
Now you should pull out the jack stands and put the truck in
the air on the stands. Make sure you level the truck on the stands so
everything will remain square when you cut.
The Crossmember:
The crossmember under the engine will not clear the stock
pan (I hope to make a conversion pan soon and make it available here). If the
engine is to clear the hood, the crossmember must be lowered. This is
accomplished by cutting out the crossmember where the steel begins to slope up.
This should allow you the clearance for the block, the pan and the oil filter
in the stock 90 degree placement. Each side must be reinforced by welding on a
steel plate on each side then welding in a 2 x 2 steel tubing between the two
as far back as possible to clear the oil pan and drain plug. You will have to
trial fit the engine to determine where that bar needs to be welded. Make sure
you don’t have the pullies on the engine while test fitting as they won’t clear
the front crossmember.
Whenever you test fit the engine you should have the
transmission on and bolt it to the transmission crossmember. This will make
sure you will always be in the final setback location.
The Motor Mounts:
The motor mounts are actually pretty simple to fabricate.
First you need to cut a piece of flat steel big enough for
the rubber isolator to fit on. Next mark the bolt holes on the steel plate then
drill them out. Then use two grade 8 bolts and nuts and attach the isolator to
the plate. It is not necessary but the nut can be welded to the plate making it
permanent but allowing the bolt to be removed.
The truck mounts can be bolted to the engine ears and the
isolator and plate bolted to the truck mount. Next lower the engine and
transmission in and level it. Be sure to double check that the engine will
clear the hood.
Take the 4 cylinder mounts taken off the original engine.
Flip the mounts over so that there is a 45 degree sloped surface facing the
engine. Put the mount against the inside of the frame rail under the steel
plate. When satisfied with the location tack weld in. Double check everything
and all your clearances before welding the mount to the frame and the steel
plate. Now the engine can be unbolted from the isolator leaving it in place or
from the plate taking the isolator on truck mount with the engine.
The stock pullies won’t clear the crossmember under the
radiator in the stock location.
This is where the rest of the 2 x 2 tubing comes in. the
tubing should extend to just beyond where the frame slopes up. Tack weld each
end of the new tubing to the existing frame before cutting out the old frame.
Once cut out you can trial fit the engine for clearance then tube can be welded
in solid. On this tube tabs can be welded to support the radiator. Rubber
stoppers that are used to support the hood at the front are excellent for
supporting the radiators.
The Transmission:
No modification is needed to the crossmember. Just swap over the mount to the 727. At this time it is a good idea to replace the rubber isolator. The shifter linkage should bolt up without modification and should not need adjustment.
The ’80-’83 Cordoba/Mirada 6 cylinder/904 driveshaft is the
perfect length. The bolt on pinion needs to be opened up to stock Mopar U-joint
size to work with the driveshaft. The slip yoke must be replaced with a 727
slip yoke.
The hanger bearing will need to be cut out and a piece of 2
x 2 tubing welded in to keep the support of the frame rails.
The Electronics:
You will need to swap out the stock coil and wiring for an Electronic Ignition kit from Mopar. The stock ignition did not put out enough power. Don’t forget the ballast resistor!!! The starter should be wired to the factory wiring. The shifter controls the neutral safety switch and having the starter wired to the starter will not allow the engine to turn over in any gear except neutral or park.
The Radiator:
A stock 4 x 4 Ram 50 radiator will be needed and it must be put under the radiator support. Use a large pusher fan to cool the engine.
The Exhaust:
Stock truck center dump manifold will work. Headers are certainly better. Only block huggers will have the clearance needed to clear the clear the engine. The headers on the featured truck were created using A-body headers cut and re-welded to the shape desired. (This site is looking to create these headers as a bolt in kit).
Odd notes:
The turning circle will be decreased when turning right. A stopper
should be welded in to limit the right turn so that there is no contact between
the center link and the transmission bellhousing.