GETTING THE MOST OUT OF YOUR 3.8L
What are the differences in a Super Coupe Motor?
The SC block weighs more it has revised cooling paths and internal webbing
around cylinders, Rods are stronger & 94-95 are even stronger, early 89 use a
Duracast crank this would be like a Nodular crank and then later is a forged
steel crank. Heads have thicker deck resist warping and blown gaskets, also
Heat Treated. This block and heads good for around 500+hp with ARP studs &
bolts. N/A (regular 3.8) motor good around 300+HP. (RGR's opinion, probably
more for both types, SC's have been built up to 650+HP!)
What are the Differences between regular 3.8 heads and SC heads?
Two things: The heat treating, and thicker decks/walls. Both make them
stronger to resist warping and such that could be caused by the heavy loads
caused by a ROOTS TYPE supercharger, such as the one the Supercoupe has from
the factory. Low RPM boost is much harder on the heads/combustion chambers so
this was done by Ford to make the engine reliable under that type of boost.
However, a street-going centrifugal SC like the Vortech or the Powerdyne can
get by with the regular 3.8 heads just fine, except the 94-95 years should
upgrade to 96 & up head gaskets or better yet the Fel-Pro SUPERCOUPE
replacement head gaskets. RGR
Why is the Stock Intake so poor?
In all my work with the 3.8 NA intakes, I have found only 1 major problem
area: The Crossover Tube (the throat behind the TB) It is the same size as
the small TB that comes stock on any 3.8 (pre-99) and both need to be made
larger. The runners that feed each cylinder are about 50% LARGER than the
runners on a 5.0 HO Mustang! So, my minimum recommended mods are a Bigger TB
and porting of the crossover tube. the rest of the manifold can support
enough airflow for 300 HP with the proper runner length. RGR
Where can I get a bigger than stock Roller Cam for my 3.8?
Morana Racing, $350, ALSO: I am exploring the possibility of offering
Re-ground stock cams for around $200. In most cases different length Pushrods
will be needed, and upgraded valve springs. RGR
Tips on Timing Cover Removal...
When taking off the timing cover, there are bolts on the bottom of the
cover. You can't feel them because they're countersunk allen bolts.
Trust us people who have broken our covers doing this. Get under your
car and make sure they aren't any bolts when you try and pry the timing
cover off. Thanx to STU, T6P member
Do I need to buy bigger Headers?
MAC has long-tube 1 5/8" headers now! But no shorties yet. Good news is that
the stockers should be good for close to 300HP NA and more with a Blower!
UPDATE: I have had my first opportunity to measure the tubing on a set of V6
headers and it is 1.5" primary size. 300 HP is kind of optimistic with the
Stock headers. RGR
How can I get a Dual Exhaust and H-Pipe for my V6 Mustang?
Pacesetter makes an H-pipe adapter which allows the V6 Mustang owner to buy
the commonly available V8 cat-back dual exhaust kits. Summit carries
Pacesetter at probably the best prices going. RGR
JMS chip settings (Johnson MotorSports) For 3.8 Mustangs!
chip1-stock idle, 6000 rpm rev limit, WOT fuel has been leaned out 1%,
removed timing and speed limiters, timing increased by 2 degrees, firmed up
shifts, fans on at 190F
chip2-same as chip 1 only WOT fuel 2% richer than stock, timing increased by
2 degrees
chip3-same as chip 1 only WOT is 4% leaner than stock, timing increased by 4
degrees
chip4-Same as chip 1 only WOT fuel 6% leaner than stock, timing increased by
5 degrees
Note: WOT stands for "Wide Open Throttle" and the term "timing" refers to
Ignition Timing. The standard practice by Ford is to program the fuel to be
10% RICH to compensate for stupid drivers and those who buy the cheapest
possible gas, and do not generally take care of their cars.
Thanx to Eeeker99! (he has a 98, btw)
SuperChips ECU Info:
These are the smaller engines of Ford's pride possession the V8 Mustang. They
stopped making the 2.3L in 1993 because the 4 cylinder just isn't enough to
push this family size car. The 3.8L has remained a hit with the public
because the Mustang really does need all the power it can get. There are many
ways of increasing the horsepower in the Mustang, but if you are just looking
for a cost effective and simple way to get more power where it counts, or if
you are in the performance race and just need something extra a Superchip is
what you need.
To begin with we changed the stock program to run on high-octane fuel. In
order to correspond with the high octane we altered the fuel curve to run
leaner due to premium gas burning slower. Leaving the Lambda sensor in
control means that the car meets emission regulations and will still return
the same overall gas mileage that it does now, when cruising. With these
changes alone the vehicle gave an immediate response. Next to give more power
in the bottom and mid range where it was needed most, the ignition curves
were altered every 400RPM from idle to full throttle. This improved
performance on the hills, off the line and when cruising about town. We then
altered the transmission for firmness and shift points to give a little more
power. We took a close look at the driveability of the vehicle and made some
changes throughout to make driving the Mustang even more enjoyable.
By making all these changes to the stock program, the Superchips program
offers you the extra power you need. By just adding a Superchips module we
have managed to give the Mustang an increase in horsepower of 10%-15% and
between 12%-17% in torque. The Mustang does have a top speed cut-off. If you
would like the cut off moved our technicians have the capability of moving it
to a higher MPH if the original cut-off point can be found.
Gains on new Mustangs
HP increase + 9 HP 2.3L Engine 88-90
+ 11 HP 2.3L Engine 91-93
+ 14 HP 3.8L Engine 93-95
+ 15 HP 3.8L Engine 96-98
+ 19 HP 3.8L Engine 99-00
Torque increase +16ft/lb 2.3L Engine 88-90
+16ft/lb 2.3L Engine 91-93
+25ft/lb 3.8L Engine 93-95
+25ft/lb 3.8L Engine 96-98
+28ft/lb 3.8L Engine 99-00
(Please note these gains are calculated from manufacturer advertised stock
performance on new unused vehicles)
There are unlimited benefits to buying a Superchips module for your Mustang.
These mid sized cars have a limited amount of power set by the manufacturer,
their attention to cost leaves the performance lacking. The extra horsepower
and torque provided by a Superchips module made the Mustang into a lively and
responsive car. This will aid you whether you are on a long trip or just
getting the groceries your Mustang will become a chirpy performance vehicle.
The greatest thing about a Superchips module is the ease in which you can
gain this extra power. Our module is small, durable and plugs snugly into the
back of your vehicles computer that can be easily located. Once plugged in it
over rides the computers stock program, if you need to go back to stock for
any reason simply unplug the Superchips module and the stock program will run
again.
You do not need to take your vehicle to a mechanic or dealer, so there is no
extra installation costs and installing a Superchips module won't take up a
chunk of your time, you probably wont even get your hands dirty!
All the information we need from you is the year, make and model of your
vehicle and the computer code off of the ECU. If you have any after market
modifications to your vehicle Superchips can, in most cases, create a custom
chip to utilize those products. All of our chips come with a 30 day money
back guarantee and a life time warranty so why not get your computer code and
give Superchips a try.
(From SuperChips Website)
Upgrading the AODE tranny- By Gaston Teran
It is common knowledge that stock AODE-equipped Mustangs are slower than comparable 5-speeds. But you don't have to loose the convenience of your
self-shifter if you want to go fast, there are ways to improve your AODE tranny.
Shift kits
There are two types of shift kits, electric and valve body kits. Electric kits are very simple to install. All you do is remove the passenger kick panel, find 2
wires, cut a little of their insulation to expose them and clip on the two wires from the kit into them.The only standalone kit I know of that works well is the
B&M ShiftPlus (model#70382). It costs about $40 and works by changing two voltage of 2 wires plugged into the car's computer. This increasing the line pressure which causes the car to shift quicker and more firmly. I have used it so I know it works well in a V6 and I must say it works surprisingly well. You can also improve your car's shift characteristics by installing an aftermarket chip. APE, Autologic, and Superchips chips can be configured to improve your car's shifting.
There are several companies which sell shift kits which work by alternating your valve body to shift quicker. Installing these kits is significantly more difficult
than electric kits but can be done by a do-it-yourselfer. Installation involves draining the transmission fluid, dropping the pan, ubolting the valve body and then
you have to drill a few holes info it and change a couple of springs. It is delicate work and messy but not impossible. B&M, Baumann, and Transgo are some
companies that have kits available for Mustangs. The Baumann RK-AODE kit will work with '94-95 V6's & the RK-AODE-2 will work with '96-'98 V6's.
The Transgo kit will work with V6's too although I don't know the part number. Steeda sells the Baumann kit. I have heard great things about the Baumann
and Transgo kits.
Maintenance
The AODE tranny in a V6 is not the most durable thing in the world. If you abuse it, it will fail. A transmission's worst enemy is heat. All AODE owners should
buy a transmission cooler, especially if you ever race your car. An expensive one is not neccesary. Jeg's sells highly-regarded B&M coolers for only $40. If
you want ultimate protection, get an Earl's. It'll cost you $80-150. Installation is easy.
The other part of the equation as far as AODE maintenance is changing the fluid. I believe 96-98 V6's use Mercon V ATF (auto tranny fluid) and 94-95 cars
use Mercon III. Check your owner's manual to make sure. There are synthetic ATF's out there but using conventional is OK. All the ATF and the tranny filter
should be changed every 20-25k miles. Make sure that the ATF in your torque converter is also drained and replaced.
Torque Converter
The absolute most dramatic mod you can make to an AODE is a high-stall torque converter. The low-end torque improvements from swapping in a quality
converter fit for your application is phenominal. B&M and Art Carr, among others, make OK low-priced torque converters starting around $250-350. Level
10 and PI (Precision Industries) make better ones but expect to pay $650-850. Labor costs to swap in a new torque converter average $200. The PI Stallion
(purple) is extremely popular and weighs in at 30lbs vs 49lbs stock (gray). That's alot of rotional mass reduction! The negatives of a high stall speed converter besides cost is slighter inferior gas mileage and slightly higher tranny temps, but you have a cooler, right? One more negative, you will have to buy new rear tires more often as you will be able to severely smoke your tires!
Those are the basic mods any street car can benefit from. With these mods, you can have the best of both worlds: convenience and performance!
What suspension upgrades are available?-
by Gaston Teran
There are many modifications you can make that will improve the handling of your V6. Keep in mind your chassis is the exact same one a GT has, so most mods
made for a GT will fit the V6.
Springs
Replacing your tall, soft factory springs with stiffer aftermarket ones is a worthwhile investment. The most important decision is how much you want to drop your car.
Dropping it a full 2" will look great, but will bring along many problems. A lesser drop can be accomplished with less side effects.
If you want a 1.5" drop, the Eibach V6 springs ($250) are a good choice. They are made specifically for our cars and handle great. The problem is that they ride much stiffer than stock and you'll scrape over speed bumps. If you want about a 3/4" drop, the BBK progressive springs are a good choice. Although they are made for the GT's, I can testify that they work great on V6's. And expect a ride that is just as smooth as stock!
Other good springs are the Ford "C" springs. They lower your V6 about 1" all around and offer a good mix of handling and a smooth ride. At $150, they are a good
buy. Steeda V6 springs seem to have good handling but are a little stiff.
Rear Lower Control Arms
The rear lower control arms are what your rear springs rest on. The problem with the stock units is that the football-shaped soft rubber bushing gives under heavy
acceleration. If you have traction-lok, you may have noticed your rear axle hop during heavy acceleration, this bushing is a major cause of wheel hop.
The two most popular, most highly regarded aftermarket rear lower control arms are the Steeda ($260) and Ford Motorsports ($290). There are countless others out there, but I have heard complaints about their performance and noise. The Steeda units are made of aluminum and thus weigh a little less. The stock arms are 5lbs while these are 4.5lbs. Keep in mind that the Steedas are boxed and so much much stronger than the stock units. Papasan and I run the Steedas and we both love
them.
The FMS is very highly regarded by everyone who runs them. A friend of mine, Ron, has run the Steedas and FMS and likes them both but he says he slightly likes the FMS better. These units are made of steel and weigh about 7-8lbs.
If you decide to run different rear lower control arms than the ones I listed, keep in mind that most others use polyurethane bushings that may squeek. Some people run lift bars instead but keep in mind these are mainly for drag racing not street use. Lastly any rear control arm that will fit a GT, will fit a V6.
Rear upper control arms
Similar to the rear lower control arms, the rear uppers are also too soft and give under heavy acceleration. It is not neccesary to get fancy uppers since they don't do as much as the lowers. I got the FMS heavy duty uppers. They are the same piece as the stock units but the bushing is exactly twice as stiff. At $65, how can you go wrong? I have them and I recommend them. If you want a fancier piece, look into Steeda aluminum uppers. They cost $200, boxed construction, and made of aluminum so they weigh about a pound less. Most people will tell you they aren't worth the money, you be the judge.
Subframe connectors
When you corner your car hard, the stock chassis tends to flex and the car starts to slip. Subframe connectors are thick bars that tie the front and rear main pieces of your chassis together resulting in a stronger body with less flex.
I run the Steeda chrome-moly subframes ($120/pr). Made of tubular quality lightweight steel, these units are very light at only 5lbs each (2 of them). They have bolt holes but I elected to weld them to increased rigidity. Other simple subframe connectors will cost only $80-100 but weigh a little more and may be a little weaker. If you really want to go all out, take a look at the Global West tri-ladder kit subframes. They cost $395 and weigh 20-30lbs total, but the rigidity of this upgrade is
tremendous. A must for those taking their cars to the limit!
Upper strut tower brace
The strut towers of a stock car may flex up a 1/2" during hard cornering. To fix this handling problem, get an upper strut tower brace. This piece ties both strut towers and the firewall together, complementing the lower sway bar. Pre-'97 Cobras and GT's came with this piece stock. '98 models do not even have the holes for it so you'll have to drill holes if you want to add this brace. Also the firewall lip that holds one end of the brace is different on the 98's. Steeda sells a '98 specific brace that is made for this minor change. 99 models will have to buy a '99 brace to clear the moved throttle body. All V6's stand to benefit from this piece. It costs about $120-160 and brand doesn't really matter. Just be sure the one you get fits. Those made for 5.0's and Cobras are different. One made to '96-'98 GT's should fit every V6. Look into getting a chrome one, they cost a little more but look real sharp!
Quad shocks
Quad shocks come standard on GT's and Cobras and are mainly there to help cornering and prevent wheel hop. If and only if you have upgraded to an 8.8" rear end, then you can add quad shocks.
Go to Ford and order a quad shock bracket and the appropriate bolts. Bolt the bracket onto the chassis using the factory holes and then side your new quad shocks in and tighten. I bought cheap Gabriel quad shocks ($18 each) from Pep boys. KYB's sell for $30 each or you can get the best, Koni Reds are $180/pair. Since they are not critical to the suspension, I think el cheapos are just fine. For the money, I think this is an excellent modification! For $60 total and 45 minutes of labor I got noticeable improvements.
Rear sway bar
The rear sway bar is a stiff metal "U" that connects both lower control arms and flattens cornering. Most '94-'97 V6s came with a factory rear sway bar while most 98's did not. They weigh in at around 10-20lbs and help your cornering ability.
New shocks and struts
If you lowered your car 1.5" or more, then it is probably not a good idea to keep using your stock shocks and struts. Or if you simply want a better suspension, look
into getting new shocks and struts.
Koni is the best name in the biz. $400-1000 will buy 2 adjustable rear shocks and and 2 front struts. But you will get world class handling and adjustability. Other
brands like Tokiko and KYB cost less.
