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The
magnificent central Nepal valley of Pokhara lies nestled beneath the
splendid Annapurna range, home to some of the most beautiful mountain
peaks of Nepal. Situated some 200 kilometres west of Kathmandu, the town
of Pokhara is the second most popular destination in Nepal. Stretched
out on one side is the serene Phewa Lake, while to the north lies the
captivating 140-kilometer Himalayan panorama, which includes the famed
Machhapuchhare (Fish Tail).
Lakeside
Pokhara�s tourist district, or Lakeside as it is popularly known,
spreads along almost half of the eastern shore of Phewa Lake. Hugging
the lake�s shoreline, there is a long chain of business enterprises
all ready to cater to the needs of the visiting tourists: many hotels,
many restaurants, many book shops, many souvenir shops, many provision
shops, and many, many, many travel and trekking agents. Here
accommodation ranges from budget lodges to luxury hotels.
Pokhara�s Lakeside was popularised in the early seventies by hippies
who used to hang around the lake by the drove; till today the area
retains vestiges of that generation�s eccentricities. Loud music,
outlandish signs, and peculiar names for hotels and restaurants like
"The Hungry Eye," "Moondance" and "Billy
Bunter", are some examples that defy transition.
History
Centuries ago, Pokhara Valley used to be part of the kingdom of Kaski.
The king ruled from a hilltop fortress known as Kaskikot, which lies to
the north of Pokhara. During the 15th century, the then king built a
winter palace at Batule Chaur, which at present forms the northern
suburb of Pokhara. (Around the site of the palace ruins is now a colony
of musicians. A visit to these descendants of the court minstrels of a
bygone era is worth it if nothing but to get a feel of the rich musical
heritage of the Pokhara region.)
Three hundred years back, the king of Kaski invited the enterprising
Newars of the Kathmandu Valley to set up shop and engage in trade. These
settlers brought with them Kathmandu�s architectural styles to Pokhara
and that accounts for resemblance the town�s old market centre has
with the traditional urbanscape of Kathmandu with temples and houses
bearing the same exquisite facades as is evident in the capital city.
Away from the central market area, which is predominantly settled by
Newars, live the other inhabitants of the Pokhara Valley. Among them are
mainly Brahmins, Chhetris, Thakalis, and Gurungs, all of whom contribute
to the colorful cultural mosaic that is Pokhara.
Till a few decades ago, when trans-Himalayan trade had not died down,
Pokhara used to be a major depot in the trade between Tibet and central
Nepal. Vestiges of this thriving trade that was mainly done through mule
caravans can be found in the numerous caravanserais that can be found in
settlements all along the Kali Gandaki Valley. The Tibet trade came to
an end in the 1960s, but mule trains still trundle northward from this
town with supplies for villages that lie along the Kali Gandaki passage
up as far as the fringes of the Tibetan plateau in Mustang. Nowadays,
more often than not these supplies are meant for the thousands of
trekkers who swarm up the valley in the thousand for the Kali Gandaki
Valley is the most favoured trekking destination in Nepal. On their
return to Pokhara, these caravans come laden with mountain produce such
as yak wool, sheepskin, medicinal herbs and the quite recently
introduced apples.
The Mountains of Pokhara
The Annapurna range as seen from Pokhara is probably the best-known
scene from Nepal. Yet, even the most thorough familiarity with the view
does not prepare one for the experience of seeing them in reality, as
even regular visitors to Pokhara can attest to. It so often happens that
clouds gather up during the afternoon and tourists, who generally land
up in Pokhara in the latter part of the day, see nothing but a blanket
white to the north of Pokhara. This is all the more fortuitous since
appreciation of this beautiful range is best when after a good night�s
rest, one wakes up to find the entire lineup of these magnificent
massifs spread out against the clear blue, crisp morning sky.
The Annapurna range is impressive by any standard. Looming ahead to take
centre stage is Machhapuchhare, or "Fishtail", which gets its
name from the shape of its summit. Flanking it on either side are the
other great mountains of the range, including Annapurna I (8091 m), the
first 8000-meter peak to be scaled. The range continues to meet the
Lamjung Himal in the east while to its west looms the massive dome of
Dhaulagiri (8167 m). Altogether an incomparable sight.
Sports
Since 1990, Pokhara has been the venue of the prestigious Annapurna
Triathlon. The race has been designated "The Most Beautiful Race in
the World", which, with Pokhara�s incomparable sights, is
arguably a most suited designation. Iron men and iron women from the
world over gather here on the last Saturday of March every year to
contest in this exciting contest. The triathlon consists of swimming in
the Phewa Lake, mountain biking up to the nearby Sarangkot hill and
back, and a rigorous run up and down a mountain track again on Sarangkot.
Climate
In spite of its proximity to the Himalaya, Pokhara is located at a
relatively low altitude of 900 metres (2,950 feet). The climate,
therefore, is mild and comfortable during the winters, while the cool
mountain breeze helps in bringing the heat down to a tolerable level.
Sightseeing
The highlight of a stay in Pokhara is simply gazing at the mountains
that lie strung across the northern sky. And what a sight it is.
Starting from Dhaulagiri (8167 metres) in the extreme left, the view
includes Annapurna South (7129 metres), the Annapurna I (8091 metres),
Machhapuchhare (6997 metres), Annapurna IV, Annapurna III (7444 metres),
Annapurna II (7937 metres) and Lamjung (6983 metres). Nowhere else in
the world can one enjoy such a magnificent panorama up so close while
enjoying the comforts of sub-tropical surroundings.
Besides spending time boating, swimming or fishing in Phewa Lake, taking
a leisurely stroll along its bank is a good way of acquainting oneself
with the Lakeside. This comes in handy especially if a stay of more than
a couple of days is planned. This gives one an opportunity to get an
idea of the variety that is on offer.
Pokhara does not have many monumental sights like Kathmandu does. But
that does not matter since this beautiful town is more of a place of
relaxation than of excursion. However, for the more energetic, there are
a few places around that are worth a visit.
To begin with, Pokhara�s bazaar area, especially the old part, is a
pretty fascinating place. Here, one can imagine the roll of the
centuries as one walks along the stone-paved sidewalks of this quiet
area. All commercial activities have shifted to other areas � so much
the better since the old market still retains its quaint character of a
town that time has passed by.
Davis Fall is a small but extraordinary waterfall. Its original Nepali
name of Patale Chhango has now given way to the Anglicised version
because a tourist by the name of Davis had plunged to his death in this
particular fall. Although the cascade is not very puissant and
spectacular, the shapes of the stones and rocks through which the water
drains are really unique and worth seeing.
Mahendra Cave is a limestone cave with stalagmites and stalactites. It
is a cave that is interesting from a religious point of view too. There
are many images of Hindu gods and goddesses on the walls of the cave and
these are said to have occurred naturally. Electric lamps illuminate
parts of the cave but it is safer to go in with torches or candles since
power failure is quite common.
The Seti Gorge has been created by the milky white Seti River that flows
across Pokhara. In places, it runs so deeply underground that it cannot
be seen. This is because of the porous soil that is rich with limestone.
"Seti" in Nepali means "white", the colour of this
river�s water that comes from it�s mixing with limestone. Over time,
the Seti river has carved a deep and narrow gorge whose fascinating
vistas is best seen from Mahendra Pool and from across the airport
runway.
Bindhyabasini Temple is the most famous religious site in Pokhara. The
temple, dedicated to the goddess Durga, is an ornate structure
constructed on a tiny hillock that gives a commanding view of the town.
The Pokhara Museum houses exhibits on the local history and is located
north of the bus terminal on the main road. Entry fee is Rs 5 per
person. The museum remains closed on Tuesdays.
Located at the northern end of Pokhara within the Prithvi Narayan Campus
is the Annapurna Regional Museum. Sections include natural history
displays of a large variety of butterflies, moths and insects. Also
exhibited are cement models of Nepal�s wildlife. The Annapurna
Conservation Area Project also has some interesting exhibits on the
environmental problems of the Annapurna region. The museum is open daily
from 9:00 am till 5:00 pm but remains closed for lunch between 1:00 pm
till 2:00 pm. No entry fee is charged but donations are appreciated.
Phewa is not the only lake in Pokhara. The valley has a total of seven
lakes although four of them are not so large. Among the larger ones are
Rupa and Begnas Lakes, twin bodies of water separated by a low ridge.
These lakes are situated approximately 15 kilometres east of Pokhara and
are worth at least a half-day visit.
Accommodation
There is no dearth of comfortable accommodation in Pokhara as there are
more than a hundred hotels and lodges in and around the periphery of the
Phewa Lake. There are plenty more uptown for those who prefer to be
close to town. Most of the hotels in Pokhara may not match the five-star
standards of Kathmandu but the minimum facilities required in terms of
comfort, convenience and hygiene are well provided for in practically
all ranges of budget.
At the top end are the Fulbari Resort, the Shangri La Village and the
Fish Tail Lodge. Fish Tail Lodge�s location could not be better as it
is right on Phewa Lake, rooms are well-appointed and the food is
satisfactory. The newly opened Fulbari Resort is perhaps the finest
hotel ever built in Nepal so far. But then, perhaps the small but
elegant Shangri La Village gets the editor�s vote for comfort and
dining. Service is impeccable and not a single service-staff is seen
without a smile. Rooms are tastefully decorated and have very
comfortable furniture. Buffets are a gastronomic delight at Shangri La
and come for less than $ 7 for breakfast while other meals cost more by
only a dollar or two.
These are the most popular hotels for up-market tourists and advance
bookings are often required. Should you want to stay here, it is best to
book rooms either through a travel agent or directly through their
reservation offices in Kathmandu.
Trekking From Pokhara
If Pokhara is famous for its lake and mountain views, it is equally
famous as a base for treks and expeditions into the Central Nepal
Himalaya. The town is the best way to end the classic three-week
Annapurna Circuit, an exhilarating trek that takes one to the
spectacular trans-Himalayan domain of Manang and Mustang in the rain
shadow of the Annapurna range. (More details in the trekking chapter)
Short Hikes
Alternatively, one may opt for short day hikes to places within the rim
of the Pokhara valley. Walks to the surrounding villages offer
captivating glimpses of rural life. Places nearby include Sarangkot,
Kaun Danda, Tutunga, Dhunge Sangu, Phoksing Danda, and Ghachowk Lekh.
By Air
All domestic airlines operate daily flights between Kathmandu and
Pokhara. Flight time varies between 23 and 35 minutes depending on type
of aircraft.
This flight is a spectacular adventure in itself. The plane cruises
along the Himalayan range throughout the journey and offers passengers
great views of some of the world�s greatest snow peaks. In order to
get a great view, a seat on the right side is required while flying from
Kathmandu, and the other way around while coming from Pokhara.
Like all of Nepal�s domestic airports, the airport at Pokhara is also
a very simple one. It is easy to find one�s way out and as easy it is
to check in. However, owing to its modest size, the passages and halls
can sometimes get overcrowded during the peak tourist seasons. For,
besides the flights to and from Kathmandu, flights originate from here
to remote trail-heads up in the mountains like Jomsom, Manang and Juphal
(Lower Dolpo).
By Road
Three kinds of bus services operate between Kathmandu and Pokhara.
Tourist service buses leave early in the morning either way at around
7:00 am in order to conclude the journey by 2:00 pm or so. There are
plenty of such buses going to Pokhara from Kathmandu and vice versa.
Then there are the overnight buses that take the whole night leaving at
7:00 pm, and reaching the other point early in the morning. Travelling
at night can be pretty tiring on account of the interminable stops made
by the bus to reach the destination (Pokhara or Kathmandu) only at
daybreak.
A more comfortable way to make the overland trip to Pokhara would be to
rent a private car and your hotel or a travel agent can arrange this.
For a group larger than three people, the option is to hire a van. The
fare of small vans such as a Toyota Liteace, which seats 5 people, is 50
percent more than that of a car, while the larger Toyota Hiace, seating
7 to 9 people, costs 2.5 times more than a car.
Average Temperatures of Pokhara in
Degrees Celsius
JAN,
FEB, MAR, APR, MAY JUN
Max 19 21 26 30 30 29
Min. 06 08 12 15 18 20
JUL, AUG, SEP, OCT, NOV DEC
Max 29 29 28 26 23 20
Min. 21 21 20 17 11 07
Precipitation
in Millimeters
JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN
26 25 50 87 292 569
JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
809 705 581 224 19 01
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