Well, the weather has held out for us for one day. Normally dreary and gray London remained sunny for our first day out on the town. And what a day it was. We really got a good start on our sightseeing tour.
We started out by taking the Tube (London's subway system) from the western suburbs to our hotel in Bloomsbury. We were lucky enough to be able to check in early, so we had a place to put our luggage while we toured the city. The hotel room is small but comfortable. Unfortunately, it's located right next to the front door. Since the front desk is only manned during some hours, they have installed a bell for after-hours entrance. We heard the bell ringing occasionally until we finally put in our earplugs around 11:30. We will try to get another room in the hotel for the rest of the week.
After setting down our things, we made our way to the Tower of London. The tower was originally commissioned by William the Conqueror (built around old Roman foundations) after his conquest in 1066, the last time Britain was successfully invaded. The tower has been the scene of countless imprisonments and beheadings and even served as the royal residence for a time.
When the tower was built, the place teemed with ravens, and it was said that as long as ravens populate the tower, Britain will remain strong. These days, they clip the wings of ravens so they can't really get away, a procedure that is reportedly painless for the poor birds. Unfortunately, ravens have to fly to mate, so these fellows live a life of celibacy. Apparently they experience a 400% longer life than ravens in the wild. Makes you think.
We made our way through the tower, looking at amazing exhibits showing medieval royal life and hearing stories of ruthless retribution. The crown jewels are stored here as well, and I recommend seeing them to anyone who visits the city. Most of the jewels are breathtaking, and it really made us appreciate the wealth and power of the British monarchy throughout the years. And they are right there for anyone to see.
We next decided to head for the Westminster district around Parliament. We started off by heading to the Sherlock Holmes Pub for a quick early dinner. Sure, it sounds touristy, but it actually was filled with Londoners, and the pub grub was tasty and filling. I just wish a smoking ban was in effect here like it is in California.
After dinner, we decided to stroll along the Thames before heading for a nighttime opening of Westminster Abbey. We crossed the river on the Jubilee Bridge, a footbridge built only a few years ago. The city spent millions to design and build a sturdy suspension bridge, but were forced to close it only days after it opened, because it swung too much once people started walking on it. After spending a few more millions, the city reopened the bridge, and now it barely swings at all. We walked the length of the bridge, passed the Millenium Eye, and took the obligatory pictures of Parliament from across the river before heading for the Abbey.
But our path to Westminster Abbey was blocked by police. We could hear chanting on the other side of the police line, and riot police were making their way through the blockade. Hovering helicopters filled the air above us, and the air was filled with tension. Colleen and I, undeterred, headed back out to make our way around the blockade using the next bridge down the river. After much walking, we finally made it across the river and approached Parliament Square. Neither of us was ready for what awaited us.
Police in riot gear. A car full of policemen pulling away, one cradling an already-swelling fist, others looking tired and worried. A man and a boy, both bleeding from the head, the blood staining their shirts, walking away from the square angry and energetic. Shouting. Cheering. Chanting.
As we emerged onto the square, we met with the remnants of a protest gone bad, a square surrounded by police trying desperately to keep order. And lots of people trying to get them to do something. As we looked around, we wondered if we were witnessing the aftermath of a riot or the calm before the storm. Turned out to be the aftermath. After watching the scene for a while (and feeling a little worried) we decided to head back to the hotel and call it a night. Turns out five protesters had penetrated the House of Commons chamber causing a major security problem the news talked about all night, while protesters outside had come into sometimes violent confrontations with the police. Fun stuff.
So today we are out for day two on the town. Weather looks to be holding up, and we are hoping that the protests (Parliament was debating banning hunting with dogs) are over, so we can tour in peace.
We are hearing some reports of Hurricane Ivan hitting the coast of the US. We know that some of you lie in the path of the hurricane. Our thoughts and prayers are with you.
Until next time.
Paul
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