October 2, 2004 - Dublin
Hello from Dublin.

We arrived safely yesterday, but didn�t have a room, so we hurried to the Tourist Information Center before it closed.  Luckily we were able to find a room close to the city center for a reasonable price.  Many guidebooks speak highly of waiting until arrival to book a room, but we are starting to have our doubts.  It�s kind of nice to be able to go straight from the train station to a hotel without the rushing and the worrying about availability.  We were almost too late last night.  So I think we might be booking ahead from here on out.

We found our room, which looked very nice upon entering it.  The furnishings were obviously quite new, the room was spacious, and large TV sat on the dresser facing us.  The hotel even had brochures detailing how to access their wireless broadband Internet service, something I have been waiting for since leaving the States.  Well, come to find out the TV doesn�t work (all we can get is static), the bar attached to the hotel has an outdoor patio right below our window, and the Internet service only works in the lobby and costs about $25.00 for a 24-hour connection.  And they don�t have any more rooms available.  Well, that�s how life goes, I guess.  At least the beds and the shower are new � no springs in the back at night.

Dublin is a thriving metropolis that obviously goes nuts on the weekend.  40% of the population is under the age of 26, and I think they were all in our neighborhood last night.  Every bar was packed with lithe young bodies drinking beer and making eyes at one another.  It really reminded me of PB back in the good old days.  The streets were literally teeming with people.

We made our way out into the crowd and finally found an Internet caf� that we could use.  Then we found a cozy bar to have some dinner.  My bowl of authentic Irish stew was just what the doctor ordered to calm the nerves.  But it was obvious we were in Ireland.  They served a giant bowl of stew, which was about half potatoes, and then supplemented it with a baked potato on the side.  I don�t think Atkins would approve�

After a good night�s sleep and a good breakfast, we headed over to Trinity College to see the Book of Kells.  The book is a very old (9th century, they think) illuminated manuscript of the gospels.  Over a period of years, monks labored to copy and decorate this volume to show their faith, and the final product has to be counted among one of the world�s greatest treasures.  The exhibit, however, does not.  The first part of the exhibit goes through all the history surrounding the book, shows reproductions of pages, and even has a small video presentation where we watched a man recreate the writing of a few letters.  It shows how the ink dyes were created, how monks lived, and some of the symbolism in the book.  Then comes the final room.  And that�s really all it is � one dimly lit room with a small table for people to crowd around.  Inside the glass casing, two separate parts of the book are open (one with an amazing illumination, the other with two pages of text) alongside two other books from medieval Ireland.  Now, I understand the complexities and difficulties of displaying a priceless book, but the whole thing seemed anticlimactic to me.

We then went over to the National Museum of History, which, although small, had a good assortment of artifacts from around the country � Paleolithic boats and tools, medieval reliquaries, and so forth.  All in all, I think we spent a good couple hours looking at things left over by those who came before us.  Displays like this always tend to get me thinking.  What will we leave behind for others to find?  What will we be known for 2000 years in the future?  Computers?  Instant coffee?  The bomb?  What will our legacy be?  Well, I�ll let all of you chew on that for a while.

Finally, we went to Mecca � I mean, the Guinness Brewery for a look around.  Their exhibit winds through the old Guinness storehouse and shows how the four ingredients (hops, barley, yeast, and water) become the beer that is enjoyed around the world.  Other areas highlight the life of Arthur Guinness, the popularity of Irish bars around the world, and past advertising campaigns used to sell the dark brew.  It was fun, interesting, and took us about 3 hours � much longer than either of us ever expected.  At the end of the tour, we were treated to a pint of Guinness overlooking Dublin.  A great end to the day.  Oh yes, did I mention they have a gift shop, too?  Tack on another half hour.

So here we are, back in our room without TV.  Hopefully I can get this email off tonight before dinner.  One more day in Dublin, and we have a lot to do.  Should be quite a whirlwind tour.  So stay tuned.

Paul and Colleen
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