We had our first taste of ferry travel yesterday, sailing between Stranraer in Scotland and Belfast Port aboard the Stena Line ferry. This is supposed to be the largest catamaran in the world, and it sure is a sight to see. On board, passengers are treated to a variety of restaurants and pubs, with tables all over the place to sit. We found a nice cozy table and settled in for the 90-minute crossing. Luckily, the Irish Sea was calm and the journey uneventful.
Upon reaching Belfast, we got a room at the Jury�s Inn, the first American-style hotel we have occupied. The furnishings were nice, and the staff was wonderful. Although we won�t be doing much of that, it was great to be in somewhat familiar surroundings for a night.
Belfast is a city with a turbulent history. For years, the Protestants, who favor continued association with Britain, and the Catholics, who favor unification with the Republic of Ireland, used Belfast as their battleground for the future of Northern Ireland. The city was marred by violence, and tourism was nonexistent. A few years ago, both sides agreed to a cease-fire, and the violence has disappeared. Belfast is rapidly growing, new buildings are rising from the rubble, and the British military presence is dwindling. All these are great signs for the people of Belfast. But tourism is still low.
We didn�t have a whole lot of time in the city this morning, so we opted for a two-hour bus tour of the major sights. Traveling through the Catholic and Protestant areas and seeing the murals that decorate the town made me think about the depth of emotion that religious controversy can create. Certainly, politics and nationalism had their part in the conflict, but the core division between these people has always been religion. They felt so strongly about their beliefs that they almost leveled their own city, and certainly the economy of the city as well as its buildings, in the name of their beliefs. That, to me, is incredibly striking.
More striking, however, is the blatant way the people express their anger. If you look at the pictures I have posted, you will see examples of outright depictions of terrorism at work. And these murals are painted on the sides of houses and apartment buildings. No wonder the British Army found it necessary to only move their troops using helicopters during the Troubles. Apparently, one of the main leaders is set to get out of jail in January, and people aren�t that happy about it. Death threats are painted all over the city. Our tour guide figures he won�t last long.
Apart from the obvious problems that have plagued the city�s past, Belfast seems like a nice place to visit. All the people we met went out of their way to be nice to us, perhaps a reflection of the city�s hope that tourism will go up as the violence moves into the past. In fact, Belfast has just opened its first direct service to New York City, removing the need for passengers to go through Dublin. Hopefully all this will help, and Belfast�s future will be bright.
We also saw the dock where the HMS Titanic was built and fitted out. The area is dilapidated today, but plans are in place for a major exhibit. In fact, the city is in negotiations now to get the replica ship build for the filming of Titanic, which I believe is still off the coast of Rosarito, Mexico. That would sure add to the appeal of the city.
So now we are departing the UK and entering the Republic of Ireland. It�ll be interesting to see how much of a difference the border makes on this island. Will attitudes and lifestyles be different? Only time will tell. So there�s something for everyone to look forward to.
One more thing. A few of you caught the mistake I made in my English/Scottish history. I didn't explain that Mary Queen of Scots was different than Queen Mary, Elizabeth's half-sister. Mary Queen of Scots never held the throne of England. Sorry about the mistake. I got a little ahead of myself while typing (and I never proofread these things). Please let me know if I make any more errors. Don't want to be blamed for misinformation...
Thanks for reading.
Paul and Colleen
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