First of all, I have to apologize to everyone for missing some details from the email this morning. I had been worrying for a day and a half, wondering how I was ever going to sum up the feelings that swarmed over me at Dachau, and when I finished writing those paragraphs, I just passed over the rest of the details I wanted to include from the Residence. So please indulge me for a minute while I make up for the error.
The Residence, being the official home of Bavarian royalty, naturally has a great number of cultural and artistic treasures. Much of the building was severely damaged by Allied bombing in 1944, and signs all over are quick to point out what was lost. But much survives � furniture, decoration, artwork.
And reliquaries. OK, I have to admit that I get a real kick out of these things. The possibilities fascinate me, and, despite my conscious skepticism about the validity of many of the claims (and signs pointing out relics don�t help, as they use words like �claimed to be� or �supposedly�), I find myself gazing at the objects and believing everything they say. I want them to be true. I want to believe that holy relics can survive the centuries. I want to believe someone, somewhere, saved pieces of (or the entirety of) the cross.
So, here�s what the Residence had to offer: a few pieces of the true cross, a very believable piece of the crown of thorns, various hands and bones of saints, unspecified cloth fragments (probably from Jesus, Mary, or some saints), and one more, completely intriguing and fascinating item. Remember, if you will, the story of Jesus� birth. King Herod, on learning of the birth from the magi, ordered his soldiers to murder all the male babies in Bethlehem. Like happens in so many Greek myths, this brutal attempt to deny fate and the prophesies failed, but much blood was spilled, and Catholics around the world generally grant the slain children the status of the first Christian martyrs. Well, inside the central reliquary in this one room in the Residence were (what is claimed to be) the bodies of two of those martyrs. This has to be one of the most interesting relics I have ever seen.
So back to today. We checked out of our hotel, asked them to hold our luggage for the day, and headed out to see some art. The museum in Munich, the Alta Pinakothek, was completely and utterly satisfying. Its collection is small enough to be viewed in a few hours, and yet deep enough to fascinate even the most traveled of art fans. Originals by Rubens, Durer, Raphael, Holbein, and Giotto highlight their collection. We spent the majority of the day roaming through the collection and learning ever more information from the very well done audioguides. This has to be one of the best things Munich has to offer.
As I wandered through the halls, I imagined myself years from now with my young daughter. I imagined showing her the pictures and explaining what they were about. I imagined asking her to tell me what she saw. I imagined being truly happy as she and I shared the magic of art. Sappy, sure, but infinitely fulfilling.
So, after the museum and a hearty meal, we picked up our bags from the hotel and headed for the train station. Our cabin on the train is much better than the couchette was a week or so ago (is that all?). Here�s hoping we get a good night�s sleep�
I am uploading some pictures from Dachau and Munich. You can see them at http://photos.yahoo.com. Enjoy, and we�ll be in touch real soon.
Paul and Colleen
Back to home page