All of which detract nothing from the attraction of the fort itself. It is approached through a winding uphill path, which is interrupted by four devious gateways designed to deter attackers. No vehicular traffic is allowed through the fort, but the distances are easy to cover on foot. Once through the fourth gate, there is a wide, open courtyard with the royal palace to one side and narrow paths going off in several directions. Sights not to be missed in the fort include sunset point, city view point, a complex of Jain temples – a must even for non-believers for the sheer beauty and intricacy of the idols inside – the tiny, crowded bazaar just outside, the Gyan Bhandar, a library containing some ancient manuscripts, and palm prints of sati sacrifices of old. Don’t be surprised if parts of the fort seem familiar – it was the setting for the filming of the famous movie Sonar Kila.

The old city, which lies around the base of the fort is full of even more wonderful treasures. It seems that you hardly have to step out of your hotel, and walk down the street and there it is, all around. Each building is carved in the beautiful and archaic style, even restaurants and shops. The lanes going through here get narrower and narrower as they go further and further uphill. It reaches the stage where, if a bullock cart going one way meets even a teeny-weeny little Maruti car going the other way, there is an impasse to the extent that even a pedestrian – even a slim one — can’t slip past between. Both sides of the lanes are lined with shops. Here you get wonderful, but quite expensive handicrafts, and even more wonderful and extremely inexpensive snacks. One favourite is called longka vada, a large green chilli wrapped in thick, delicious batter and deep fried.

Wandering through the old city it is quite easy to get lost, but this is worth it if in the event you can find the three most wonderful havelis, the largest and most ornate of Jaisalmer’s havelis: Nathmalji ki haveli, Patwaon ki haveli and Salim Singh ki haveli. Each one of these exceeds the other in degree and extent of decoration in its carving. No two windows are alike!

Other sights around Jaisalmer are the Gadsisar lake, which has a wonderful sort of pleasure palace on its banks, and is best seen when the slanting rays of the morning sun light up its golden doorway; and the royal cenotaphs at Bada Bagh.

Tired of beautiful buildings?!! A short drive away (40 km) lie Sam sand dunes, a relentless stretch of softly flowing sand in typical dune formations, a sharp contrast to the slightly hilly and scrub-covered sand that characterises much of the Rajasthan desert. Sam sand dunes is a fun outing, offering opportunities for camel rides and spectacular sunsets. The former can be spectacularly uncomfortable and thrilling at the same time as the animal walks with its awkward gait through soft sand that its hooves sink right in to, especially when going up or down the slope of a dune.

If you have more time, it is possible to arrange for a camel safari of anything from one day to two week duration. You will get to see ethnic, rural Rajasthani life, live in tents, and go everywhere by camel. And if you want to know more about these ships of the desert, stop by at the Desert National Park nearby.

So whether you are looking for natural delights, architectural fantasies or exotic culture, you’ll find it in Jaisalmer. And, whatever else you may or may not find in Jaisalmer, one thing’s for sure: you won’t find boredom.