Much later, the road passes through the congested little town of Fatehpur. No, this is not the Fatehpur of Fatehpur Sikri fame – it’s another Fatehpur. But it’s just as interesting, in its own way. The town is full of the most exquisitely decorated and carved havelis, some now in a sad state of disrepair. As you pass through the narrow streets, your head twists and turns back and forth frantically, trying to take in all the sights and all the minute details. Elaborately sculpted doorways lead to large central courtyards. Walls and doorways are covered in tiles and paintings. Though there are now many modern, plain houses crowding out the beautiful and ramshackle old havelis, it is easy to imagine what the town would have been like in its heyday, when each tile gleamed in the sun, and the stonework glowed golden and nothing was plain, or unadorned, or decrepit.

There is a road that by-passes Fatehpur town and it would probably be quicker to take this road, as the town is rather congested, but it would have been a pity to take it, and miss this pretty town.

As evening approaches, camels can be seen loping homewards in ones and twos. The failing light makes the stunted trees and scrub seem like tormented ‘things’ from an alien world. It is a pity that darkness has fallen by the time we enter the town of Bikaner, for the approach has a view of the wall of the fort, which is well worth seeing. It can be seen by craning one’s neck and facing backwards while leaving, but the effect is not the same.

After a two-day stay in Bikaner, the impression I retain is of a rambling town spread over a large area, vaguely connected by a few roads. We seem to use the same few roads for every trip from any given point to any other.

Sightseeing in Bikaner is varied and interesting. Within the city is Junagarh fort and Lalgarh Palace, and outside, there is a camel breeding farm, a wildlife sanctuary at Gajner, and a rat temple. We go to the last first.

The Rat Temple

The Karnimata temple, popularly known as the Rat Temple, is 32 km from Bikaner, on the Jodhpur road. At home, I am as scared of rats as the next person. But, going to the rat temple, removing my footwear, and wandering into an area teeming with rats in every direction seemed like almost a normal thing to do. Everyone else was doing it too.