American Energy: Between Alaska and a Hard Place

 

 

By Richard B. Simon

 

 

Several years ago, I was invited to take a cruise to Alaska. Certainly, to many vacationers, cruising the glacier-carved fjords of Lynn Canal and Glacier Bay in luxurious, European style is Nirvana in motion. To me, however, sniffing martinis by the promenade deck lounge piano bar, watching the Inside Passage roll by through gold-plated portholes, to the tune of "The Girl From Ipanema" and the hum of a legion of camcorders, is antithetical to the meaning of Alaska.

 

Of course, Alaska means different things to different people.

 

To native peoples such as the Inuit, the Aleuts, the Tlingit, the Inupiat (a.k.a. Eskimo), the Gwich'in and the Athabascans, Alaska has, for many thousands of years, been home. For more recently-arrived Alaskans, it is a sportsman's paradise in the summer, and a harsh mistress through the long, dark winter. To the denizens of its numerous military installations, Alaska is a rugged and scenic place from which to serve one's country - and many who serve in Alaska eventually settle there as civilians.

 

In the eyes of those of us "lower 48ers" who merely visit, Alaska is a land of wonder - a backyard Serengeti where the Aurora Borealis unfurls its phantasmagoric astral curtains; magnificent, carnivorous American mammals chase equally magnificent, herbivorous American mammals across the tundra; and rivers of glacial outflow, glowing brilliant emerald-blue with sediment freshly scoured under a mile of prehistoric icepack, writhe with salmon so abundant, one can practically pluck them out of the water like ripe peaches off the tree.

 

Indeed, the "Great Land" is a vast, verdant country, as lush with exotic flora, as teeming with extraordinary fauna - and as lacking of cement, asphalt, smog and the orange nighttime of light pollution -- as 21st-century Americans of the lower 48 can only imagine our great nation stood in its primeval state, before resource-hungry Europeans conquered it in the middle of the last millennium. It is a treasure trove virtually unlatched, a miraculous land frozen in time, a fertile subcontinent left purposefully fallow by history, for later generations to enjoy.

 

Now, in the stark light of the ascension of the oil industry to the executive branch, it would seem that we have seen the later generations, and they are us.

 

Alaska has become the focus of the decades-long clash between the environmental movement and those who have long been its most formidable foes - industries such as oil, timber, and mining, which exploit natural resources on public lands, and tend to leave enormous messes behind for taxpayers to clean up. To those folks who profit from the trade in natural resources, Alaska looks to be nothing so much as a gold mine.

 

So, like many others this past summer, my favorite travelling companion and I figured we had better get up there before the Bush-Cheney administration turned the whole place into a Texas playground of oil derricks and pipelines.

 

I had expected that our trip would offer a glimpse into the Alaskans and their views on environmental politics - but little did I know that having a conversation about Alaska, in Alaska, without it turning to environment and politics, is nearly impossible. Alaska is all about its land, and Alaska's economy is all about how that land is used - whether fished, forested, drilled, mined, or simply savored for its natural beauty. So, in Alaska, politics, the economy, and the environment mix far more readily than, say, oil and water.

 

While deploring cruise ships, we still wanted to travel by sea and feel the distance we would traverse, so we booked passage on the Alaska Marine Highway, the state's ferry system, which runs from Bellingham, Washington, and travels several routes around Alaska's southern shores. We boarded the 500-passenger M/V Matanuska on a cloudless July afternoon, climbed to the top deck - where many of our fellow travellers were already scrambling to pitch their tents --  and claimed the last bit of prime view property, along the deck's outer rail. We wrestled with our tent for what seemed like hours in the windy harbor, eventually securing it to the rail with rope. We moved all our gear to the edges to keep the winglike blue dome from blowing off the back of the boat, then stood on deck, awed as the foghorn blasted and we pulled away from the dock and off to sea,  snowcapped Mount Baker slowly shrinking from view.

 

The first friend I made on the ferry was a Texan named Brandon Reed. The tall, blonde-haired 23-year-old said he had not travelled much, and that this was his first time to the Pacific Northwest. Amazed by the clean air and water, he marvelled at the beauty of Northern Washington, compared to polluted Galveston, where, he said, the Gulf of Mexico is a murky brown, and the omnipresent oil rigs spill and dump freely.

     

"In my mind, George W. Bush was the lesser of two evils," Reed said of the 2000 election, though he saw Green party candidate Ralph Nader speak in Houston last fall, and appreciated his no-nonsense style. I talked to him about the California energy crisis - about the prime planning role in the state's failed deregulation scheme played by Enron CEO, Bush friend and reputed "shadow energy czar," Ken Lay. I explained to him the shutting down of 1/8 of the flow of natural gas to California by the "marketing subsidiary" of Texas-based El Paso Energy. He hadn't heard about any of that down in Texas.

 

That evening, the sky glowed all hues green to purple as the sun lit the haze on the horizon. I ran for my camera.  Meanwhile, a giant cruise ship moved in front of us, far off to the horizon, literally blocking the sun, and spoiling everyone's photos (or perhaps giving them scale and relevance). We retired to our tent, but shorly thereafter, I was startled by a brilliant light in the dusky sky. Conditioned to city living, I figured it was the headlight of a jet plane, but as it held its position, I realized that the object was Mars.

 

Unlike the pinprick of light most of us see through the polluted skies of the populous lower 48, Mars was a palpable orb hanging in space, apparent in its volume and mass. Up there where the air is still clear, it became easier to understand why the Greeks and Romans called the planets gods, envisioning them wheeling across the sky in chariots of gold and silver fire.  For someone accustomed to the particulate-obscured night skies of early twenty-first century America, the view - and its implications -- were startling.

 

Eventually, I fell asleep, but I awoke in the middle of the night, and stepped out onto the deck to see one of the most incredible sights I have ever seen -- a fat, gibbous moon hanging in the sky directly to stern, lighting our wake in otherworldly brilliance, a bridge of light across an ink-black sea. For the first time in my life, I truly understood earth's satellite, that it was a touchable, rocky locality, and not just an ethereal disc of light. I felt, as I overheard an older man say the next day, "closer to God."

 

The next morning, we were awakened by a woman yelling "Free Willy!" We clambered into our clothing, and jumped out of the tent in time to see a male orca surface, his straight, black dorsal fin rising maybe five feet out of the water. Later, a school of Pacific Whiteside dolphins frolicked alongside the ferry, breaching the surface and darting to and fro beneath the hull.

 

We spent the day travelling along the cedar- and fir-covered coastal hills of British Columbia, where occasional clearcuts marred the landscape like patches of mange on a dog's back. In the evening, I met Michael Patrick Bradley, an ornery tramp logger in his 40s, on his way to Ketchikan, in search of work. Bradley was talking to Reed and a few others camped  out in deck chairs in the ferry's solarium. He was angrily bemoaning the effects of environmentalists and their affinity for spotted owls on his livelihood.

 

I joined the conversation. I said that as far as I see it, loggers and environmentalists are not enemies. The big timber companies pit their employees against environmentalists, distracting them from seeing that shortsighted, non-sustainable harvesting benefits only those at the very top of the financial ladder. I asked him how much he makes as a self-professed "pillager" and "raper of the wood."

 

"$15 an hour," he said.

 

"That's hardly hazard pay," I said. He didn't disagree. 

 

Instead, he explained how much more difficult selective forestry is than clearcut (in which case loggers should command more pay, I suggested -- another reason big timber companies may have little interest in sustainable-yield harvesting). Bradley derided Californians for not allowing clear-cuts around Lake Tahoe in the Sierras, where a huge fire then burned from Truckee to Auburn

 

"They'd rather look at a mountain of dead, burnt trees that isn't worth anything than a clearcut."

 

For Bradley and many others, trees are valued solely in dollars per man hour - and dollars per board foot -- not for their beauty or contributions to biodiversity. Most environmentalists, Bradley believes, "haven't worked a day in their life."

 

Two days later, we arrived in Sitka, Alaska, once the capital of Russian America. The town's three main tourist attractions are the Alaska Raptor Rehabilitation Center, where injured birds of prey are nursed back to health; St. Michael's Church, the 19th-century seat of Russian Orthodoxy from Kamchatka to California; and the Russian Bishop's House, the home of Church leader Innocent before Alaska was sold to the U.S. in 1867.

 

Built by Finnish shiprights in the 1840s, the Bishop's House incorporates an astounding array of energy-efficient building techniques, such as floors insulated with packed sand, masonry stoves (central chimneys in which a fast, hot stick fire heats a labyrinth of firebricks, re-radiating heat into the home for hours) and high threshholds between rooms, to eliminate drafts. All the windows are double-paned. The stairway and outside doors are in a non-heated atrium, which is closed off from the living space, and acts as an airlock.

 

In announcing his "national energy policy," Vice President Dick Cheney maintained that "technology" will save us from an "energy crisis." Yet technology did not save California from the energy companies who appear to have manipulated the state's energy market for their own profit. Touring the Bishop's house, it is hard to understand why, if 19th-century Finns could build a nearly ideal energy-efficient dwelling - and a large, luxurious one, at that - Cheney refuses to consider energy-savvingg technologies as any major part of his "national energy policy" for the 21st century.

 

Instead, by "technology," Cheney means new oil recovery techniques - in Alaska's case, high-tech drilling machines that stand on relatively small feet as they tower over the pristine and delicate tundra of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. To Cheney, it is more desirable to fast-track new, taxpayer-subsidized, multi-billion-dollar explorations for oil (operations in which the multinational oil industry titan the Halliburton Company, which Cheney ran as CEO during the Clinton years, holds financial

stakes) than it is to maximize the efficiency of our current lifestyle.

 

The next leg of our journey took us to the capital, Juneau, where the cruise ships dock right downtown, but the ferry terminal is nearly fifteen miles away. We walked a mile to the nearest public bus stop,  across from a small grocery store, DeHart's Auke Bay, where we went for coffee. The woman at the counter quickly chatted us up, and learned that we were from California.

 

"The story on that energy crisis sure changed once the Democrats took the Senate," she said, adding that she was glad for Vermont Senator James Jeffords' power-shifting defection from the GOP. "Now they've got their eyes on Alaska," she said warily.

 

Of course, this was Juneau, where the dollars roll in off the cruise ships, not the oilfields. (Actually, much of Juneau's economy is based on its being the seat of state government - which is inseparable from oil money.)

 

There is a definite dichotomy in the locals' relationship with tourists, mainly because their relative impact on Juneau is so great. Imagine living in a small, remote city of 30,000, with a main downtown area of six or seven blocks, when suddenly, two 9-story Celebrity cruise ships -- one carrying 800 crew and 2000 passengers, the second with 1000 crew and 2500

passengers.-- pull in to tower over downtown, and dump as many as 6,000 people onto the streets. Then, two more cruise ships pull into port.

 

Juneauans are happy to share their favorite hiking trails with backpackers, but not with cruisers. Indeed, on our way down the 3.5 mile West Glacier Trail - where an otherwise spectacular hike had been plagued by the relentless drone of an endless queue of Temsco tourist helicopters - we met a gang of very clean-looking hikers, who told us "everyone in town discouraged us from taking this trail."

 

Locals like to keep the bejeweled, perfume-soaked cruise ship passengers on the beaten path, where they buy trinkets at a myriad of gift shops in town

- many of which, unknown to most passengers, are owned by the cruise lines themselves, and therefore "leak" tourist dollars away from the local economy.

 

The cruise lines have been taken to task recently for freely dumping untreated wastewater too close to shore, and they fought hard against (and

lost) a lawsuit seeking to limit the number of ships allowed into - and, therefore, their impact on - Glacier Bay.

 

Still, as little love as Southeast Alaskans have for industrial tourists, cruise dollars comprise approximately 10 percent of the region's economy.

 

Cruise ship tourism, the oil industry, and U.S. foreign policy are inexorably linked in Alaska. Before 1991, cruise ships stuck to warmer waters, but the Persian Gulf War, fought chiefly to ensure the steady flow of oil out from the Middle East, kept Americans and Europeans wary of travel in the nearby Mediterranean, leading to a dramatic expansion of cruise routes throughout the scenic and safely American shores of Southeast Alaska.

 

The make-or-break impact of the cruise trade is felt sharply today in the small, un-touristy town of Haines (pop. 1,811), partly because the cruise lines have cut their stops there to one ship per week. This, we were told on the ferry by writer Natalie McPherson, is in retribution for Haines' refusal to allow the cruise lines to build souvenir strip malls in town. In addition, Haines voters passed a 4 percent bed and tour tax, and endorsed capping cruise ship visits. As a result, Royal Caribbean line has since pulled out, and next year, Haines will have only one "big ship call," a devastating blow to a microeconomy already reeling from declining fisheries.

 

MacPherson said most Haines residents are fundamentalist Christians, and have little use for environmentalism, but a vocal minority of artists and environmentalists, many of whom live clustered around the still waters of Mud Bay, hope to make the town a sort of environmentalist mecca. Their vision includes a conference center and research facility, which would establish Haines as a world capital of the movement, appropriately located on "the last frontier." With the backing of major environmental organizations, such an effort could help protect Alaska against environmental devastation - and perhaps rescue Haines from economic extinction.

 

Of course, if an eco-mecca could provide some steady, sustainable jobs for cash-starved Haines, while preserving the town's local and decidedly non-commercial culture, then perhaps the locals will understand that environmentalism is about people, after all, and not just whales and spotted owls.

 

Men like Kirk, a seasoned fisherman and boatbuilder we met on the ferry M/V Leconte, who picked out the dorsal fins of twenty dolphins where I had seen only open water, or the native fisherman I met on the M/V Kennicott, who knew every ripple, every fish, every rock and twist in every channel, and even Bradley, the logger for whom the great northwestern forests are more home than anyplace else, are the true shamen of environmentalism. They are the keepers of the secrets of the ecosystems in which they live and work. It's just that no one's explained that to them yet.

 

That includes the white-haired Haines bus driver who gave us a ride to the ferry, showing off a photo of his prize, 300-pound halibut.

 

"Now don't get me wrong - I'm no environmentalist," he saiid ((it's a dirty word in these parts), before stating calmly that the oil companies are only interested in immediate profits, and "don't give a damn" about a place or its people once the wells have run dry. He knows from some experience - he worked as an operating engineer on the Trans-Alaska Pipeline.

 

Now he drives a tourist bus and wrestles with rivals who charge half his fare from town to the ferry terminal, fighting over the table scraps left over from the cruise ships' billion-dollar feeding frenzy.

 

Complicating Haines' situation, curious representatives from both BP (which controls the lion's share of North Slope oil production) and VECO (a multinational providing construction and support services for the oil

industry) have been visiting Haines, which - rare among Southeast towns -- is accessible by both road and sea. Haines and touristy Skagway are being considered as a transit hubs for construction of a proposed new pipeline, which would deliver North Slope natural gas to Canada and the lower 48 - and  which most Alaskans are certain will be built. 

 

Governor Tony Knowles - a former oilman, himself - is pushing hard for the gas pipeline (Canadian officials have vowed to take their tithe of the gas if the pipeline crosses their soil.) Speaking to the Resource Development Council in August, he proposed a 10-point plan to bring the pipeline to fruition - including wooing Native and labor organizations - important, because Teamsters support effectively pushed ANWR drilling legislation through Congress. In recent months, President Bush has turned to labor for support on his energy policy, this time citing "jobs" as the key reason for drilling in ANWR. With labor backing the Bush Administration on energy policy, Senate Democrats, who rely heavily on labor for votes and campaign money, will have a harder time killing the legislation.

 

According to Governor Knowles' own press release, the pipeline plan should "[i]nclude economic incentives such as accelerated depreciation, an investment tax credit, and gas tax credit to give investors additional level of confidence." Knowles is pushing for federal subsidization of the project, because "the [gas] producers have indicated the project is currently uneconomic and said the federal government should provide incentives to make it feasible."

 

Indeed, the Cheney energy plan includes $10 billion in loan guarantees for the pipeline's construction.

 

Knowles has invited the likely recipients of such corporate welfare -- El Paso, Duke, Foothills, Williams, and - you guessed it - Enron, to meet with him "to explore opportunities for partnerships."

 

Another certain recipient of a cut of the $10 billion is Halliburton. Halliburton's subsidiary, Kellogg Brown & Root, is a partner in a five-company joint venture called the AlasCan Group. The group was awarded the Conceptual Engineering contract for the 1,800 - mile stretch of the pipeline that would run from Alberta, Canada, to Chicago.

 

The Halliburton Company bills itself as "the world's largest provider of products and services to the petroleum and energy industries." Its Chief Executive Officer, from 1995 until August 16, 2000, was Dick Cheney.

 

"Having worked closely with Dave Lesar and the Halliburton management team over the past five years, I have great confidence for the future success of Halliburton," Cheney said in the company press release, announcing his departure from the company to become George W. Bush's Vice Presidential candidate.

 

Cheney's successor, Dave Lesar, said "Halliburton has immensely benefited from Dick Cheney's leadership and the worldwide respect he commands. Together we have established corporate strategies that will remain in place and continue to lead Halliburton in the future."

 

Nearly 60 percent of Alaskans favored the Republican ex-oilmen George W. Bush and Dick Cheney in the 2000 presidential election. Bush/Cheney campaigned on a pledge to open the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge to oil and natural gas exploration. While offering most Americans tax rebate checks for their votes, they gave each of the 626,932 Alaskans an additional financial incentive to cast their lot with the Republicans: besides creating jobs, opening ANWR would provide a sure boost to the annual check that each Alaskan receives from interest on the state's 22 billion dollar "Permanent Fund." Alaska's most sacred cash cow, the fund is a treasure chest filled by the state's share of oil companies' lease payments to operate on land controlled in joint by the state and the federal governments.

 

For Alaskans, an extra boost to the annual dividend is always welcome. Last year, each Alaskan man, woman, and child received a Permanent Fund Dividend check for nearly $2000. For a family of five, that's a $10,000 valentine from the oil industry. Alaskans pay no state income tax - though much-loved Senator Ted Stevens, the ranking Republican on the powerful Senate Appropriations Committee, is among an elite handful of Senators who draw the most federal funding for home-state or "pork" projects. According to Citizens Against Government Waste, Stevens pulled $480.3 million in federal funds for Alaska for fiscal year 2001 - or $766 per Alaskan, less than half oof eeach Alaskan's Permanent Fund payout for the year.

 

As the battle lines are likely being drawn, with many locals pinched by the cruise industry freeze-out and eager for pipeline jobs and bigger Permanent Fund checks, it would seem that the beautiful, un-touristy, local charm of Haines is itself an endangered species. But Alaskan pipeline booms have been traditionally just that, and booms go bust, as one bumper sticker pinned to the wood panelling of Juneau's Red Dog Saloon attests:

 

"Lord, please give us another boom - we promise not to spend it all on booze this time."

 

Eventually, we made our way into the Interior. We spent a week in awe-inspiring Denali National Park, trudging across the backcountry tundra, bushwhacking through dwarf willow forest, and running across grizzly bears, moose, caribou, and even lynx, which are cats the size of German Shepherds. 20,320-foot Denali (aka Mount McKinley) had been shrouded for three weeks in weather its icy faces create, but on our last day in the park, the mountain emerged. We travelled across Denali by park bus - the only way, as the park is closed to most vehicular traffic - to see the mountain's majesty. Its sharp peak and upper half poked into the clouds, but its sheer bulk and the powerful presence of its icy, blue-white shoulders  was awesome - the tallest mountain in North America, a fitting icon of America's natural heritage.

 

As we rounded the washboarded curves at the easternmost point from which the mountain is visible, our bus driver pointed out "the imaginary site of the Mount McKinleyview Amusement Park, the Mount McKinleyview Hotel and Resort, the Mount McKinleyview car wash and diner and condos," and a host of other typical American-style attractions from which Denali had been saved by prudent governors who set it aside, in 1917, as a wildlife refuge. (Denali National Park and Preserve was formally created in 1980, by the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act - the same law which created ANWR.) He urged all aboard to protect our favorite backyard natural places, underscoring that the lynx, the bear, the wolf, the moose and all their cousins were under great pressures from encroaching development.

 

On the bus back to Anchorage, debate over ANWR, energy policy, politics and Alaskan jobs and resources swirled amongst us -- a 30-something editor for the German news agency in Washington DC; a couple of Russian Canadians - a civil engineer, and a tax accountant - in their 50s; a computer engineer from St. Louis who had actually visited the North Slope; a retiree from Boston in her 60s, who cried about having to leave; my lovely companion, who teaches fifth grade; and I.

 

The computer engineer who went to Prudhoe said you can't get to the Arctic Sea without being on a tour "specially blessed by the oil company," which "controls the entire world" up there. She said she went to Prudhoe with an anti-oil mindset, and came back more confused - partly by her appreciation of the amazing feats of engineering, and partly by the oil companies' efforts to balance what they destroy with pro-nature deeds. Still, she said, partly due to the conspicuous absence of any "bad stuff" on the tour, she said of the idea of minimal-impact drilling in ANWR:  "I don't believe a word."

 

Her North Slope guide, she said, suspects the industry's plan is to extend the pipeline's lease (currently on the Congressional table), so that it remains in action for 50 years. In that case, the pipeline would become eligible for historical landmark status, and Alyeska (a joint venture owned by BP, Exxonmobil, Amerada Hess, Phillips, Unocal and Williams), which operates the pipeline, would not be required to return the pipeline route to its initial pristine state, as is required by law in the original lease. As silly as it may sound, the pipeline is already the subject of tour stops and postcards, and Interior Secretary Gale Norton last year tried to designate a sanitary landfill a United States historical landmark.

 

As we drive through the strip-mall Anchorage suburb of Wasilla, talk on the bus turns to oil booms.

 

"Before 1970, Wasilla didn't exist," says our bus driver, a tall man who has lived in Alaska since retiring from military service in the 1950s. During the 1970s boom, pipeline workers, who work a week on, a week off, had turned Wasilla into a bedroom community, but during the 1980s bust, workers who had taken on $1,500 mortgages were earning only $300-400 per month from unemployment. Legions of those once wealthy laborers "walked into the bank, threw in their house keys, and went back to wherever they came from." Which, in most cases, was Texas or Oklahoma.

 

"For an Alaskan to get a job on the pipeline, he had to go down to Texas and fill out a job application," our driver said.

 

The woman who went to Prudhoe agreed that those were the accents she heard across the CB up on the North Slope - Texans.

 

"Why don't Alaskans remember that?" said the woman from Boston.

 

"Different people up here now," said our driver.

 

Like many of us who remember the good before the bad, Alaskans, excited about the economic prospects of a new oil boom, are slow to remember the long, dark backslide of bust.

 

Even while he recounts firsthand the heartbreak of post-boom Alaska, our driver still complains that Alaskan logging is all but shut down, and its fishing industry in a shambles (and since declared in an official state of emergency), leaving oil as the only viable industry (along with tourism) that Alaska has left.

 

But he admits that even the Teamsters won't get great wages for line workers.

 

"I'm a Teamster. Believe me," he says. "You know where most of the money goes (from North Slope oil production)? It goes to British Petroleum, which controls most of the production up there (they own a controlling 50.01 percent of Alyeska), and they send it all back to England."

 

It takes only a recollection of history to envision ANWR's oil flowing to Japan, the profits and jobs flowing to Texas (and England), the natural gas ending up in Canada, and the brunt of the environmental degradation and public health risks sticking around Alaska for decades, if not centuries.

 

And when, in every park in Alaska, signs and rangers plead with tourists to tread lightly on the tundra - or stay off it altogether - for many of its fragile shrubs, lichens and wildflowers take centuries of very short growing seasons to become established, it is difficult to imagine 2000 acres of fragile tundra ecosystem growing back in the lifetime of anyone currently alive on this planet.

 

Even so, our bus driver says Alaskans don't like outsiders "coming up here and telling people what to do with their own land."

 

Of course, ANWR is owned by the people of the United States of America. The oil fields on the North Slope are leased to BP, Exxonmobil, Phillips, and friends, in joint, by the State of Alaska and the good citizens of the United States of America. In 1867, Alaska was purchased from the Russians by the United States of America. Taxpayers from all 50 states subsidize exploration, road-building, pipeline construction, and other costs of oil production, but only the Alaskans receive a share of the profits. In fact, Alaskan citizens, who pay no state income tax, pay nearly zero percent of their state's operating and infrastructure costs.

 

Whatever state projects are not funded with oil lease cash are paid for by the citizens of the United States of America, courtesy of Alaska Senator Ted Stevens. So, to some degree, Alaska's land, its oil, timber, gold, roads, bridges, and incredible state ferry system, have been paid for by New Yorkers and Californians - not to mention Iowans, Arkansans, Hawaiians and everybody else. And when - before the tragic terrorist attacks of September 11 - some Democratic Senators had pledged to filibuster any bill that would open ANWR to Big Oil, Stevens pledged to block any energy policy legislation that would cross the Senate floor without provisions for drilling in the refuge.

 

It's not the first time Stevens has stood up for the oil industry's presence in Alaska. BP's own corporate history recalls the battle to authorize the Trans-Alaska Pipeline:

 

Environmental groups had blocked the pipeline bill in 1970, with a federal injunction that ruled the 200-page environmental impact statement inadequate. After a new EIS was drafted - its stacked pages standing 7 feet talll - the environmentalists found a 1920 law, under which the proposed pipeline right-of-way was too big and, therefore, illegal.

 

BP - a.k.a. British Petroleum - goes on to boast of its influence in the U.S. Congress, which drafted a bill to get around "the right-of-way matter."

 

"There would have been no problem getting it passed, but unfortunately, just about then, in addition to the environmental impact stuff, the word got around from somewhere that we were going to export oil to Japan," said now-deceased BP exec. Charlie Elder. "It was 1972-73, and the nation was experiencing an energy shortage because of the Arab oil embargo."

 

Stevens and fellow Sen. Mike Gravel introduced into the bill a "no more" rider, which, said "that enough was enough on debate and lawsuits. In the national interest, work on the pipeline should proceed immediately."

 

"A lot of purists, particularly those folks who were lawyers, felt that the amendment removed due process," Elder continues in the BP folklore. "I guess in retrospect, we were smart."

 

By "smart," Elder meant that BP was able, with the help of Alaska's senatorial delegation, to successfully co-opt due process  for the great strategic and financial gain of a foreign corporation which still managed to send Alaskan oil, in the midst of a Middle East energy crisis, to foreign shores.

 

The lesson was not lost on Alaska's industries. A federal judicial ruling in June, 2001, struck down part of Alaska's campaign finance reform law, thereby re-legalizing "soft money" contributions. In the few weeks following the ruling  -- and just as anti-wastewater dumping legislation was being debated -- the cruise industry poured $75,000 into Republican party coffers. Tesoro Petroleum, a ubiquitous player in the oil industry, gave $5000 each to the Republicans and the Democrats.

 

As for "no more" clauses, Stevens invoked the one written into the 1980 Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act, recently, in a letter to former President Jimmy Carter. Carter had visited Alaska toward the end of the Clinton Administration, and urged Clinton to designate ANWR a National Monument. Stevens responded angrily, blasting Carter, essentially, for interfering in Alaskans' business:

 

"The Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act contains the 'no more' clause, requiring Congress alone to enact any future land withdrawals of more than 5,000 acres in Alaska," Stevens wrote. "Implicit in this provision is the concept that the American people should determine the disposition of the Arctic Refuge through their elected representatives in Congress. Just such a congressional debate is underway."

 

Never mind that the debate was largely scripted by the recently former CEO of the Halliburton Company, again, "the world's largest provider of products and services to the petroleum and energy industries." 

 

The Bush-Cheney administration is determined to drill in ANWR at any cost - so much so that their rationale for opening the refuge changes along with each shift in the political wind. Last summer, the administration held that drilling was necessary to stave off the California "energy crisis."

 

California's "energy crisis" subsided, and it became readily apparent that the crisis was attributable not to California's lack of new energy infrastructure or Californians' wastrel ways (Californians reduced their electricity use by 20 percent during the crisis, with little effect on energy prices), or even to drought conditions that decreased the availability of hydroelectric power. In fact, the "crisis" was born of a failed deregulation scheme, which was engineered by Enron and its CEO and long-reputed Bush "shadow energy czar" Ken Lay.

 

While California businesses were going under because of unnaturally exorbitant electricity bills, Lay was giving the administration "unpolished advice" - through in-person, secret meetings with Cheney - to do nothing. Cheney met with Lay on April 17, 2001, to discuss the "energy policy" and the California crisis. The very next day, the Vice President announced that the Federal Government would not support price caps on wholesale energy prices in California.

 

The Lay-Cheney plan to do nothing in California had several desirable effects for the administration and for Enron. Among them: it kept Californians' cash flowing into Enron's bank accounts; it humiliated California Governor Gray Davis, who, as chief executive of the world's sixth largest economy, was an automatic contender for the 2004 Democratic Presidential nomination; and it gave the Bush-Cheney administration their chief argument for opening up a federally-protected wildlife refuge to oil production.

 

When the California "crisis" evaporated, Bush-Cheney needed a new reason for drilling in ANWR. They invoked the word "jobs," leaning on a 1990 study, sponsored by the oil industy lobbying group the American Petroleum Institute, which found that opening up ANWR could create 700,000 jobs. The findings were debunked by several economists (though all numbers on ANWR, including the amount of oil there, are purely theoretical), but not before the administration got the Teamsters on board. With their clout, the Bush-Cheney plan cleared the House of Representatives in August.

 

In Spring, 2001, when California lawmakers, looking for evidence of collusion among the state's energy providers to manipulate the market, sought records from Enron, they were told that the company's records were in Houston, and "not under your jurisdiction."

 

California is often seen as the nation's bellwether, as in "where California goes, so goes the nation." Essentially, energy companies held California hostage in 2001, and the Bush-Cheney administration allowed it.

 

In that light, Cheney's refusal to hand "energy task force" records over to Congress'  General Accounting Office sounds both awful and awfully familiar.

 

Enron is still under investigation for alleged manipulation of California's energy market - a market Enron, itself, helped to design, and from which Enron profited greatly, at a time when ordinary citizens were being raked over the coals by quadrupling electricity bills. This is the counsel Cheney sought, when formulating an energy policy for the good of the nation. It is only natural that Cheney would seek Lay's advice. After all, both men served as the Chief Executive Officer of an energy corporation with global reach.

 

The national debate on energy paused in September, as the nation reeled from the horrific terrorist attacks on New York City and Washington D.C. Crashed into a frightening world, ordinary citizens, hyper-aware of the need to stand together as a nation, shelved the previous week's criticisms of an energy policy dictated in secret by corporate interests, such as Bush friend and Enron CEO Ken Lay. Suddenly, the entire climate of energy and environmental politics stood new and shocked, on footing as unsure as spongy, waterlogged tundra underlain by ever-shifting permafrost.

 

Within days of the terrorist attacks, pro-ANWR-development groups, including Alaska Senator Frank Murkowski, began again to push for oil exploration, declaring brashly that it is now, more than ever, in our nation's strategic interest to develop ANWR and reduce our dependence on "foreign oil." (Of course, the definition of "foreign oil" is itself shifty, for today, the majority of the Trans Alaska Pipeline is itself controlled by foreign interests.)

 

While pretending to avail himself of politics-as-usual during the period of national crisis and mourning, Bush actually wasted little time in calling on the Senate to pass his energy bill, authorizing oil exploration in ANWR, this time, for the sake of "national security." (Recall that the President's national Security Advisor, Condoleezza Rice, is a former board member at Chevron, and has an oil tanker named in her

honor.) 

 

Our insatiable thirst for oil again complicates - and even dictates - U.S. foreign policy in wartime. The U.S. walks on eggshells around oil-rich Saudi Arabia, a nation whose citizens comprised the majority of the force that attacked us on September 11. We are still at war in Afghanistan, where, right up until September 11, we were negotiating with the Taliban to secure rights-of-way for a pipeline which would allow oil from the Caspian Sea region to come to market via the Arabian Sea (Afghanistan's new interim leader, Hamid Karzai, is a former Unocal consultant). While friends of ANWR drilling tout "independence from foreign oil" as their current goal, it is fairly obvious that the oil industry has no intention of turning its back on oil deposits that do not underlie American soil.

 

But in post-September 11 America, where everything on the Bush-Cheney agenda is a matter of "national security," Senators who vote to oppose ANWR development in favor of conservation measures stand to be branded "un-American." Certainly, their political rivals are poised to do the branding.

 

Posed with this dilemma, San Francisco geologist Tim Whalen suggested that any new development in ANWR will further open Alaska's energy infrastructure up to terrorist attack. Security has been stepped up on the pipeline - but not enough to prevent a drunken Alaskan from pulling out his handgun and blasting several holes in the pipe in October, creating a breach large enough to douse the surrounding forest with nearly 300,000 gallons of crude oil.

 

As the Senate debates the energy bill, drilling in ANWR is not the only issue on the table. Some even consider the ongoing debate focused on the refuge to be a distraction from the greater issues facing the nation as our elected representatives plot the course of our relationship with the energy industry for the foreseeable future. 

 

But ANWR is a ready metaphor that Americans can use to understand the greater forces at work.

 

The very powerful energy industry, whose influence in Washington has recently become distressingly apparent, is deeply, deeply entrenched in petrochemical solutions to our problems. Infrastructure already exists - entire towns and processing facilities - to literally squeeze oil out of rock, in the form of tar sands and oil shales, economically unfeasible sources of hydrocarbons which the oil industry is so certain will become viable as the world's supply of oil disappears, that they have been prepared for decades to exploit them, the very moment the market will bear it.

 

As both an economic savior and an energy source, oil is not a sustainable, long-term solution, but a quick fix. Had the Reagan administration in its earliest days not virtually eliminated the budget for alternative energy research, not only might we not be dependent on foreign oil today, we might not be dependent on oil at all.

 

In light of the Enron scandal, as evidence clings to the front pages of the administration's thorough and complete ties to the energy industry, the American people are clamoring for elected officials who represent the interests of We, The People - not only those of their largest financial supporters. In light of this new spirit, Bush-Cheney's "energy plan" is a dinosaur (so to speak) - fossilized evidence of the influence of the wealthiest few over the best interests of the many.

 

What Alaska's hearty and economically disgruntled people need is viable development and jobs for the long term. Surely, we can find better solutions to the Alaskans' economic hardships than drilling in ANWR. Opening the refuge will create some jobs, to be certain. But once the oil runs dry (one estimate holds that ANWR can supply enough oil to run the entire United States, but only for six months), so will the jobs. Most of the jobs ANWR drilling will create for Alaskans will disappear as soon as those high-tech platforms are in place. The money will continue to flow from the wells, but it will flow into the coffers of big oil companies and their executives, who, as we have learned in yet another bitter lesson from the Enron fiasco, know how to hide it from the tax system.

 

The Alaskans may get their first fiscal infusion as a service industry grows around our stepped-up military deployment in the war on terrorism, effectively extending to year-round economic benefits similar to those of the tourist industry. Alaskan tourism itself is on the rise once again, as travelers avoid more exotic locales in favor of the relative safety of home. Its growth must continue in a way that preserves and protects Alaska's ecology, which is the natural resource that attracts most people to Alaska in the first place.

 

ANWR production will have very little effect on U.S. dependence on foreign oil. The U.S. Geological Survey's best estimates indicate that ANWR could hold enough oil to run the entire country - for six months. The only thing that can possibly reduce the United States' dependence on foreign oil is a reduction in our dependence on oil, period. Oil knows no boundaries. Neither do the oil companies or the oil market.

 

Opening ANWR at the behest of the oil industry will set the precedent that even the most sacred of our national treasures can be bought, for a price - not because the national interest dictates that it be necessary, but because influential individuals and corporations will it so, for their own financial interests. The national interest appears to be whatever the cash-on-the-wellhead says it is.

 

Just ask the park rangers in our treasured Yellowstone National Park, who are forced to wear respirators on the job to protect themselves from snowmobile emissions. When the snowmobile manufacturers sued the United States Forest Service, attempting to strike down its ban on snowmobiles in the park, Bush-Cheney sided with the snowmobiles, suspending the ban.

 

The people who have written our "national energy policy" - a strategy to which our nation, if it passes the Senate, will be committed by law, far into the future - are not future-thinking people. Bush, Cheney, and their global energy industry constituents, are throwbacks to the 19th century. Their energy plan could have been written in 1950. They envision a strong American Empire, fueled by oil, gas, coal, and atomic energy - a wealthy nation which will continue to lead the world in energy consumption and pollution per capita, at any cost. Environmentalists - the sort of people who like to be able to see stars at night - are a major thorn in their paw. As such,, environmental concerns were all but completely ignored as the Cheney "work group" hammered out the energy policy last year. Environmental organizations, which are peopled by paying members, not by paid employees and stockholders, were shut out of the deliberation.

 

The Bush-Cheney administration is not "in bed" with the energy industry. The administration is the energy industry. The Cabinet is a virtual who's who of the energy industry. Even if they believe that their actions are in the best interests of the American people, leaders who are indoctrinated in the business philosophies of the energy industry will lead the country, instinctively, in ways that benefit the energy industry. Even to where they truly believe that national security and the financial security of the energy industry are one and the same.

 

George W. Bush and Dick Cheney probably do have the best interests of the American people at heart - at least they probably think they do. Without a doubt, the well-being of the United States of America is inexorably tied to the production and consumption of energy. Bush and Cheney know and understand this. But they see it exclusively through the eyes of those who will profit in the short-term future by adhering to the time-honored traditions of the past. Change is costly.

 

But as global temperatures rise, the ice caps melt, and agricultural zones migrate across borders, the resistance to change our out-of-control consumption of fossil fuels will be far costlier - and it will cost all of us, not just the energy companies whose adventures our taxes subsidize.

 

Rather than clinging to 19th century energy sources, we must work to find new ways to fuel our economies and lifestyles - ways that will slow the degradation of the natural world in which we all live, and to which all our futures and well-being are tied, not just the futures and well-being of the Ken Lays and Dick Cheneys.

 

We should choose to lead the world in finding and harnessing the energy sources of the 21st century, not merely to lead the world in energy consumption and pollution per capita. We must not accept the argument of those who maintain that by "life, liberty, and happiness," the founding fathers meant "the right to burn as much oil and coal as we see fit."

 

The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge is not the be-all and end-all of the national energy debate. It is simply the canary in the coal mine. And any coal miner will tell you that it's not the canary that he's worried about.

 

 

© Richard B. Simon, 2002

 

Richard B. Simon is a San Francisco freelance writer.

 

 

 

 

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