Reassembling the P-32.

The presence of a new "Hammer block" device makes reassembly of the
P32 slightly more difficult than the P11/P40 pistols. If you are
familiar with the P11, and how to release the hammer spring, skip
over this first part.

First, unload the gun and remove the magazine. Draw the slide back
and eject the round from the chamber. Allow the slide to close.
While pushing the slide back very slightly, pry the assembly pin
loose and remove it. The slide should come forward and off of the
receiver.

The next step is to disconnect the mainspring. A small screwdriver
under the plastic block in the bottom of the grip will pry it up and
allow it to be pushed out of the slot and into the magazine well.
Now that the tension is off the hammer the two pins holding the
frame in the grip can be driven out. Use a flat tipped punch almost
as large as the pins so they won't be expanded and ruined. Make sure
you have solid backing like a wooden block with a hole in it to clear
the pins.

Now the frame can be lifted out, and what ever work is needed
can be done.

To reassemble the P32 and reset the hammer block I use a strip of
metal 1/2" wide and about six inches long, made from a hacksaw blade
ground smooth on each edge and the end squared off. (* Polish the tool
and make it smooth on all sides)

If whatever work you needed to do is accomplished, reassemble the
frame component and push the hammer spring down into the mag well.
After getting everything back into the frame, springs, drawbar, etc.,
slip the frame into the grip. This will keep the frame components
in place while you do the next step. Don't hook up the spring in the
bottom of the grip just yet. With the hammer back, lift the rear
end of the frame from the grip about 1/16 of an inch and peer in.
You will see a metallic object in the grip under the frame. This
is the top of the hammer block device. It is necessary to push this
forward while the hammer is held back. It is spring loaded and wants
to lay against the rear of the grip so this is where you need the thin
flat blade to slide in the opening and push it away from the rear of
the grip until it hooks under the hammer while the hammer is held back.
Keep the frame down as tightly against the grip as you can, allowing
onlyroom for the tool, otherwise the blocking device won't hook under the
hammer.

This is not easy but don't despair, you may need to develop a feel
after several tries. When you have this done, don't let the frame
come up out of the grip but a tiny amount, or you will lose the
hookup again. If you have it hooked, withdraw the tool, hold the frame
tightly down in the grip so that you don't lose the hookup, and hook
the mainspring up in the mag well. (* Make a tool from a coat hanger
wire approx. 5" in length. Round off and polish both ends. Bend a "U"
shape 3/16" lope into one end and a 1" closed lope in the other. This
tool can be carefully inserted into the hammer spring catch [PN 279]
and it then can be pulled and positioned into the frame notch.)
Now try the trigger and reset by pushing the hammer back until it
catches, then it will strike again. Put the plastic pins back in
to hold the frame, reassemble with the slide, and you are done.

Good Luck, Jack F


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One small item that I'd like to see added is about the "Placement of the
trigger spring (#256). The long straight end must be wound
counter-clockwise until it is under the trigger bar (#260) to hold the
trigger bar in an upwards position." At first glance it looks like the end
might go above the trigger bar against the edge of the frame cutout. This
small error cost me an extra go-round with the hammer block placement
and the hammer spring as I had to disassemble/reassemble an extra time.
=====================================
I'll try to describe this as I remember. I used a thin (1/16 or so) pin
punch through the left (as you normally hod the pistol) side hole in the
frame to align the spring and hammer block. I angled the punch up slightly
when putting the spring and hammerblock on. I think I used a hemostat to
get these parts in. The straight end of the spring had to be "up" to get
the hammerblock pushing the right way. When the parts were on the punch
correctly I gently forced the punch to a horizontal alignment with the
other grip hole and when everything seemed to be on right I pushed the
axis pin in from the other side as I withdrew the punch.

The referenced procedure (with tool made from hacksaw blade) should help
getting the frame in with the hammerblock in the correct position. Make
sure the straight end of the trigger spring is under the bottom edge of
the trigger bar before sliding the frame into the grip.